2001 AUII ute immobilizer problems

[WagonJunkie]

So unless the mods think I should start my own thread (?), I'm going to "adopt" Mr Furious' old thread to see if I can get my ute running.
It has been almost a month since Smartshield mysteriously activated & called the cops on the party.
The only clues was on the day it failed it got progressively harder to start over a few hours, as I went from place to place running errands 'n stuff.

So I have run the PATS procedure thru FORScan, and the Module Initialization, with both factory keys. The system had no problem recognizing & relearning the keys - it bumped the locks up/down to indicated the process worked on both keys.

I have attached a couple of screenshots of the errors.
I would love more info about IC B2682 "EEC (PCM) Communication Fault ??
Not a very specific code....wondering where to start?

[asimplelife]

As mentioned earlier, sadly I am no expert. But I may have some info that is of use to you. So I'll give you what I've got. Expressed as what I'd do/think if I was in your position. Until you at least hear from someone more knowledgeable;

Module BEM has no DTC function;
This is normal for AU Falcon.
The BEM module doesn't have standard continuous monitoring system (that FORScan reads DTC codes from). Diagnostic codes for BEM module are displayed by HEC/IC module (instrument cluster).

C1781 Module IC Instrument Cluster Engine coolant temperature signal missing / fault;
Does the IC gauge seem to work? Could be a problem with the sensor unit or something between there and the IC? Or could be just be a false positive caused by your main problem? I'd get my main problem identified/solved first and this might go away.

B2682 EEC (PCM) Communication fault;
I'd believe this is highlighting your problem.
Either your Engine Control Unit/Powertrain Control Module (ECU/PCM/EEC/ECM) or Body Electronics Module/Body Control Module (BEM/BCM) needs to be replaced.
As you said you have already successfully reprogrammed the keys ok using forscan.
You have a AUIII Ute. I believe all the BEM's are pink and the same across all AU2&3 vehicles? If so just grab one of them cheap, swap it and use forscan again, to link it with your ECU and reprogram the keys again.
If it is an auto, 6 cyl and not an XR then you can probably also pick up a ute ECU cheap at the same time, just in case that is your problem.
There are lists of the ECU codes you can use around, or I can paste the relevant ones here from my list if you need them.

[aussiblue]

Also check that an aftermarket immobiliser is not, and was never in the past, spliced into the BCM to ignition switch wiring inside the steering column shroud or at the ECU/PCM to BCM wiring -look for evidence of taped over wiring splices. The solder joints tend to become brittle and dry jointed even after the aftermarket immobiliser is removed. They also often run too much current though the stock wiring so the strands in the wiring melt or burn through or fail in other way. Both these issues will often creates the comms fault you have,

[WagonJunkie]

Originally Posted by asimplelife

As mentioned earlier, sadly I am no expert. But I may have some info that is of use to you. So I'll give you what I've got. Expressed as what I'd do/think if I was in your position. Until you at least hear from someone more knowledgeable;

Module BEM has no DTC function;
This is normal for AU Falcon.
The BEM module doesn't have standard continuous monitoring system (that FORScan reads DTC codes from). Diagnostic codes for BEM module are displayed by HEC/IC module (instrument cluster).

C1781 Module IC Instrument Cluster Engine coolant temperature signal missing / fault;
Does the IC gauge seem to work? Could be a problem with the sensor unit or something between there and the IC? Or could be just be a false positive caused by your main problem? I'd get my main problem identified/solved first and this might go away.

B2682 EEC (PCM) Communication fault;
I'd believe this is highlighting your problem.
Either your Engine Control Unit/Powertrain Control Module (ECU/PCM/EEC/ECM) or Body Electronics Module/Body Control Module (BEM/BCM) needs to be replaced.
As you said you have already successfully reprogrammed the keys ok using forscan.
You have a AUIII Ute. I believe all the BEM's are pink and the same across all AU2&3 vehicles? If so just grab one of them cheap, swap it and use forscan again, to link it with your ECU and reprogram the keys again.
If it is an auto, 6 cyl and not an XR then you can probably also pick up a ute ECU cheap at the same time, just in case that is your problem.
There are lists of the ECU codes you can use around, or I can paste the relevant ones here from my list if you need them.

Yeah I'm not worried about the C1781 code yet. I'm not convinced it's related. The temp gauge works fine, so I'll come back to that.
(although I realise the PCM needs an accurate coolant temp input for accurate/fuel efficient mapping)

Given the quirks with the way it reports BEM codes, I think I can assume the B2682 code has come from the BEM?

So, rumour has it the BEM is hanging off the steering column somewhere?
Or is it up under the dash proper?
I'd like to check it's connections & see if I can at least inspect it...

Does anyone else have experience with B2682??
Is it an umbrella code for a range of comms faults?....or something more specific?

The only other thing I can think of is that over the last 6 months or so the flasher relay has been slowly failing. I haven't got around to replacing it yet (but I've got a new one on the way now that I've got issues)
Sometimes when relays, switches, fuses, electronics fail they can produce voltage and/or resistance spikes. Now maybe the flasher relay has upset the system....? (long shot, I know)

[WagonJunkie]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Also check that an aftermarket immobiliser is not, and was never in the past, spliced into the BCM to ignition switch wiring inside the steering column shroud or at the ECU/PCM to BCM wiring -look for evidence of taped over wiring splices. The solder joints tend to become brittle and dry jointed even after the aftermarket immobiliser is removed. They also often run too much current though the stock wiring so the strands in the wiring melt or burn through or fail in other way. Both these issues will often creates the comms fault you have,

I'm the second owner. I don't believe there was ever an extra security system.(christ, the factory one is effective enough?!) There's no funny keys, brochures, manuals or window stickers to indicate anything was fitted. No extra dash lights either.
But I will have at look at the wiring and see if there's any ****-****ery going on there.
Basically it's a bog stock, unmodified AUIII SE ute with 3 cloth seats, column shift auto, vinyl floor, buggered stereo, no roof liner. It's an old tired ute. But I like driving it and it's useful to me. Before this issue it has been super dependable.

I did notice some schmutz under the floor vinyl near the PCM/ECU on the passenger side. Almost looks like an old insect nest or something. Lots of little **** stains and granules of crud around the PCM/ECU box.
But I was having trouble getting the vinyl and the bottom of the glove box out of the way enough to see down there properly.
I will revisit next week....

[Citroënbender]

I’d suggest focusing on the wiring connector below the glovebox bottom edge, and the PCM header plug. Water ingress will corrode pins, wires nicely in these.

[WagonJunkie]

OK I'm having another look at the ute this morning....

I have the following issues/questions if anyone could help...?

1. Accessing the ECU. Anyone got any tips for partial dashboard removal?
I've been working on cars most of my life & have taken a few interiors apart....but this mother is next level. They put backwards facing screws along the plastic overlaps because they hate us. I can't get the lower glovebox enclosure out so I can get at the ECU & it's connectors properly....
I have tools. I have experience. But I'm struggling at the first hurdle!

2. The BEM. Is it at or near the steering column or somewhere else....?

3.This morning I put a freshly charged battery back into the carand tried to start it...just to see what happened. I noticed when the key arrived at the full-crank/start position the smartshield "hand" light didn't flash repeatedly this time. It just stayed solid the whole time.
And as usual the park-brake exclamation light came up when trying to crank/start...

thanks again gurus.

[asimplelife]

Again, I'll give you the best answers I can, until you hear from someone who knows more.

3. I don't think any of that will be important to you. As someone who has swapped batteries in and out, charged and flat, dozens of times, across many AU's. I have never noticed that making a difference to any problem I have had.

2. BEM location; on the left side of steering column, if you lie under dash on drivers side and look up on left side of steering column you will see it, its located with a screw on the bottom and 3 plugs.

1. With dashboard removal. I've only ripped 2 out (and have 2 more to do). I didn't do it with a view to putting them back. But if you do it in the right sequence/way, you definitely can do it without breaking anything (but if dash rattles bother you - I have made a note to make sure when I put my next one back - to somehow pad everything that might rattle - I have also noticed that the main plastic lugs for bolting the dash to the chassis can get brittle and are already broken - probably more in cars that get left out in the sun).
The following is a dash removal guide I have copied/compiled for when I next attempt it;

Dashboard removal;
Firstly you need to access the main retaining bolts. At the windscreen there is a panel which has the air vents. This panel is held by 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and gently prize the panel off and remove it.
Underneath it you will see 5 bolts. The green bolt is the main dash earth and the other 4 are the upper retaining bolts.
Next remove the centre console. There are 6 8mm bolts holding the console down.2 bolts are under the drink holder plastic removable base. The next 2 are in the space in front with the big plastic cover. The last 2 are at the rear next to the seats. Remove the console. Once removed you will see an airbag module in the centre tunnel. On either side you will see the main bottom dash mounting frame. From memory there is 4 bolts to remove here.
Open the car doors. Looking at the dash side on view from the door you will notice removable panels that sit facing directly to the door. Pop these out with a screw driver on both passenger and drivers door. This will reveal 2 more mounting bolts on each side. Right ...disconnect the cars battery.
At this stage you have all of the main bolts exposed.
Next…the steering column must be removed. Put your seat back as far as it will go. Stick your head under the dash. The steering column is held by 2 bolts. They are very obvious. At the floor side you will have a circlip and 10 mm bolt securing the steering wheel assembly to the external steering shaft. The circlip is removed with a screwdriver. You must unplug every wiring connector to the steering column. Once this is done you can unbolt the 2 underside bolts hold the column up and then undo the 10mm bolt I mentioned before and circlip. Before you remove it be careful to not spin the column as this will break the airbag assembly on installation. Remove the column in exactly the same position and place it on the floor in exactly the same position for installation.
Remove the fuse box screws. Pull the fuse box towards you. Unplug all of the plugs. Put the box out.
Next you must decide which min bolts you want to remove . I removed the top bolts and then side bolts and left the bottom tunnel are bolts on to lever the dash towards me as it is very heavy.
When the dash is leaning towards you take special care to remove all main looms with big plug connectors.Note how they run or just leave them in their position.
Remove the bottom bolts and voila your dash is in your hands.
If you want to access your heater core/air con or blower fan well just ask and I’ll try to help.
If you have never removed one before allow 7 to 10 hours if you are mechanically minded or 2 days if you are not.
Oops one other thing I forgot...in the left hand kick panel remove the main computer as the dash may fall on it and damage it.
It’s not that hard...... but pretty labour intensive, i had another car to drive so i took my time and some items that could be a question mark on reassembly i put labels on, even cable tieing some cables wires in pozzy so i could locate them easier afterwards;
- battery disconnect
- glove box remove
- passenger air bag cover and air bag
- t`bar
- console
- radio
- heater controls
- dash gauges
- once dash gauges are out it gives room to unclip some other buttons/controls behind the dash
- front seats to give more room
- kick panels
- associated plugs
- steering column cover and plugs + bolts top and bottom....
- bottom from the rack end first iirc
- pretty sure i took the steering wheel off to give me more room.......
- i`m not sure that was needed
- unbolt unclip fuse box
- big loom connectors
- clip in access panels to the dash left and right...
- you`ll see them when you open the door exposing 2 bolts each side
- a panel on top of the dash with 3 screws ...i think...
- once removed shows some bolts holding the top of the dash
- the green bolt is the earth,
i`m not sure thats correct sequence but thats roughly how i did mine

[mad2]

Originally Posted by WagonJunkie

OK I'm having another look at the ute this morning....

I have the following issues/questions if anyone could help...?

1. Accessing the ECU. Anyone got any tips for partial dashboard removal?
I've been working on cars most of my life & have taken a few interiors apart....but this mother is next level. They put backwards facing screws along the plastic overlaps because they hate us. I can't get the lower glovebox enclosure out so I can get at the ECU & it's connectors properly....
I have tools. I have experience. But I'm struggling at the first hurdle!

to access the AU ECU - from memory of 'Ol yella [ex taxi wagooon] it's behind the left lower 'A' pillar cover which i think is held in by clips [?] so be careful removing as i seem to remember it's all one piece carpet?. i seem to remember the bracket holding the ECU in place had the earth wire from the ECU clamping it in place which was then held in by a rivet. once you get to the ECU wiring plug, check for corrosion re pins.

Originally Posted by WagonJunkie;

2. The BEM. Is it at or near the steering column or somewhere else....?

3.This morning I put a freshly charged battery back into the carand tried to start it...just to see what happened. I noticed when the key arrived at the full-crank/start position the smartshield "hand" light didn't flash repeatedly this time. It just stayed solid the whole time.
And as usual the park-brake exclamation light came up when trying to crank/start...

thanks again gurus.

as mentioned the BEM is is to the left of the column [sorta up & in the dash] & mounted to a 'bracket'.


cheers

[asimplelife]

1. Sorry I see I didn't read your question properly about getting to the ECU
You don't need to remove any of the dash to get to the ecu.
Its attached to the Passenger Kick Panel.
Slide the passenger seat right back.
Remove the scuff plate and I think that is all you need to get the carpet lifted up and out of the way enough.
Not sure if you can inspect the plug and connectors without removing the ecu.
If this is the first time, the bracket holding the ecu has a big pop rivet that needs to be drilled out or ground off, then the bracket swings out.

[WagonJunkie]

Originally Posted by asimplelife

1. Sorry I see I didn't read your question properly about getting to the ECU
You don't need to remove any of the dash to get to the ecu.
Its attached to the Passenger Kick Panel.
Slide the passenger seat right back.
Remove the scuff plate and I think that is all you need to get the carpet lifted up and out of the way enough.
Not sure if you can inspect the plug and connectors without removing the ecu.
If this is the first time, the bracket holding the ecu has a big pop rivet that needs to be drilled out or ground off, then the bracket swings out.


image

Thanks mate. Good run down on the dash removal.
I know where the ECU is and I had no problem pulling the vinyl floor back.
But the issue is useful access to the ECU.
If I'm going to inspect all the pins & sockets for corrosion and/or test the wiring with my meter, I've gotta get proper, free access to all the connectors.
It's not possible in-situ because the lower dash plastic (glove-box surround) blocks your head, your vision, your hands & your tools. And the loom connections to the ECU are all tucked up underneath. I can't get my hand in there to pull them out...and there's no way I could spend hours in some upside down contorted yoga pose with a multi-meter & a torch in my mouth.
I'm going to grind the head off the mounting rivet so I can drop the ECU down onto the floor at least. Obviously the rear rivet is easy to access because it's right there....but the forward one (behind the ECU)....??

I popped the little side cover off the end face of the dash & removed the 10mm bolts that hold the dash to the bar....but it made little difference.

I'm going to follow your dash removal process I think.
It's a big job, but I think it's the only way I'm going to get the access to the wiring between the BEM & ECU?
I'm chasing a "communication fault" code....so it's broadly unknown until I start testing circuits with a meter & a diagram.

I was just shocked how retarded the dash construction is compared to other cars I've worked on. Rear facing screws with no screwdriver access!

Appreciate your info/help for sure.

[asimplelife]

Wish I knew more about it to offer better advice...but it is what it is I suppose.
I am also away working just now, because I have a car at home being stripped, so could step through this again. Back home Wed I think.

I would only pull the dash as a last resort though. It is a big job. And I haven't done one without breaking something yet.

I'm going to grind the head off the mounting rivet so I can drop the [COLOR=#F80000 ]ECU[/COLOR] down onto the floor at least. Obviously the rear rivet is easy to access because it's right there....but the forward one (behind the ECU...??

There is no rear rivet holding the ECU in.
Once the front rivet is out, the metal plate swings out and then lifts up and off on like a hinge, so you have full access to the ECU and connectors.
I would have thought you will easily see any corrosion evidence at the back of the ECU or the plug then.
I haven't yet pulled a BEM myself, but from what I have read it is not difficult?
The corrosion would only be at the connection point for ECU and BEM. So no need to pull the dash?

While corrosion or a fault somewhere is possible, from all my forum reading, BEM's and maybe ECU faults are the most common cause as I read it.

So if you find no corrosion on those connectors, if yours is the pink BEM, and I think for series 2/3 they are all the same, I would replace the BEM first and use ForScan extended to sync it with the existing ECU. I see one on Ebay for $66 this morning. Should be cheaper at a pick a part or if you can find on facebook mp or gumtree.

Next I would find and replace the ECU for your model ute. Maybe $50-$100?

[WagonJunkie]

Right....I have the BEM on the bench. Unfortunately there's no obvious carnage like a popped capacitor or burned resistor etc...
(see photos)

Haven't decided whether to try another used one....or see if I can get it tested and/or repaired...

And btw...that lower dash section is a focker. I was about 5 seconds away from getting the cordless jigsaw out! I couldn't get that section to pop out so I could get at the BEM properly (insert foul language here).

EDIT: I've given up on uploading the photos. No matter how many times I resize them (well under the site limits) they get rejected on dimension/size.
If the admins want to run a steam powered forum from another era, who am I to fight it.

[WagonJunkie]

[asimplelife]

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11447020

Yes the image upload is primitive.
And there are a number of ways still floating around - some of which I could not get to work.
This method does work for me.
But you must follow the process exactly.
And make sure you remove those bit from the path - \thumbs

[WagonJunkie]

[asimplelife]

You have a blue BEM so my logic was wrong about them all being pink.
That also means I can't be sure now they are the same for utes, sedans and wagons.

If you were doing a straight BEM swap - which is not what you seem to want to do - maybe you are in a remote location? - but is what I would be trying next for simplicity.
Reading a bit more now there apparently low series and high series - and there is a mid series which is a high series with some functions disabled (which can't be related to high and low bonnets - but I can't find a reference back to what colour is what - but I assume that high or mid series is pink - mine are pink and from XR's and SR's - so maybe they are interchangeable - and if blue is low series - then any blue or pink series 2/3 might do - assuming again that utes are not different to sedans and wagons.
I have also seen references to not being able to use a high series in a low series without going to Ford. But maybe that was before forscan came along?

I see references to a BEM replacement guide on the aufalcon part of this forum. But I'll be stuffed if I can find it via a search...which is nothing new :(
I also see you have a thread going on on forscan and are getting some help there.

I don't think I have read about anyone trying to repair a BEM or ECU - probably cost and finding someone who knows how to do it? - apart from getting their ECU chipped - if the ECU was actually was the problem - but then you can have other issues like the aircon running all the time? - or maybe the reverse? - and maybe that was only VCT? - anyway just trying to say, I would be wary of that route.

I have pulled out a dash on my own, hacked it and broke several parts. I then watched a guy do one for me, who had done them before, and he broke nothing and did it in much less time. So it definitely can be done but you just need to know all the quirks. He said if he doesn't know how to do something, he goes to pick a part and hacks at theirs first, until he works out how to do it properly

[WagonJunkie]

Update...

A few weeks ago I saw a blue BCM for sale on ScumTree. Was just removed from a ute and was a direct match. Price was acceptable. Timing was perfect.

So took a few weeks before I got around to fitting it.
I ran through the PATS relearn and the Module reset.

....and the bastard started !!!!

So it seems my BCM had failed. Not sure how/where/what.
I had to go back to work (month on, month off) so I didn't have any time to road test properly. But I'm hoping that's the end of the Smartshield issues.

Big thanks to asimplelife for all the sound advice...and others who added their thoughts.

I am still in shock from the dashboard design. I've taken dashboards apart in plenty of different cars over the years, but the lower dash design in the Falcon is the stupidest, nastiest most difficult to access/remove mongrel I've ever worked on.

For anyone stumbling across this thread - don't be afraid to download Forscan and have a go yourself.
My particular error codes were from the IC (inst. cluster)
...but that is a proxy for the BCM.

[WagonJunkie]

...and I forgot to add...
I stumbled across Injectronics in my searches.
They run an exchange repair service for BCM's, ECU's, TCU's etc etc.
They do offer a reconditioned BEM (BCM?) for many Falcon models.
Their business model works through 3rd party resellers so pricing can vary. I saw one offered for a bit less than $500.
If you don't mind the price, you get the piece of mind of a fully refurbished module.

[aussiblue]

Deleted mistaken post; wrong thread

[asimplelife]

Congratulations!
And there is some useful information there.
I am having my own separate problems atm...with my 7x i6 AU's :(
I have a 20 year plan...and by the end I might just know enough about them to become self sufficient...only to probably then find I can't get the parts I need

[nearlythere]

Wow what a read! My ute was fine until a rock shattered the rear window. The it lost info and is immobilized. But i did also leave the battery connected for a few weeks ( optima ) the ute drained it DEAD so that may even be what caused it.
Everything works, I can access the BEM delete keys but no way in hell can i program them! not even the locksmith could program keys! So maybe the BEM is stuffed or the rear demister has caused an issue. Light comes on on dash though.
Any thoughts guys?

[nearlythere]

Or I can send the ECU to matt at bullet performance racing and get PATS wiped...

[asimplelife]

I can't comment on the causes. Others will have more experience. But from reading other threads, it doesn't seem like there has to be a specific cause. It happened to me because I changed the ecu while converting to a vct engine.

If you are saying the Locksmith could not program the keys, then it is likely you have another fault that must be found and fixed first. I would start with the BEM. If an auto you should be able to find one for $50 (pickapart, wreckers, facebook marketplace or AU forums classifieds, gumtree, ebay). However, it could also be rusty pins on the ECU or BEM. Or a faulty ECU. Or many other things which are listed in this thread, and elsewhere. Are you saying that when you turn the key in the ignition it won't turn over?
If this is what you are saying then the rest of what I write is irrelevant.

When you try, are you saying you have 2 keys, and are using Forscan, doing the pats reset (which needs the additional Forscan licence which you can get for free or a few bucks), but it won't resolve the problem?
If so, you could have 1 or 2 non genuine keys. Check that first. Then if you have this problem, do the pats process twice, and change the order of the keys. You may find one key is ok but the other isn't. If that happens, you can start with the good key, then wrap the bad key heavily in tin foil to trick it into believe the both keys have a compatible chip (as described earlier in this thread I think).
If you have 2 good keys and the process fails, then as worked here, I would track down another correct BEM, swap it over, and use Forscan to sync it with the ECU.
However, if you are saying you can't use ForScan, then nothing in this thread is going to help you. It is all Forscan related. And your best bet is to find someone near you who can help you.

[aussiblue]

wow what a read! My ute was fine until a rock shattered the rear window

There may be a essential clue there; the rear demister is part of the Smartshield circuit and per section 15-8-14 of the factory workshop manual, it needs to be working correctly for the fobs to be trained or programmed. Have you, or you able to, completed all the tests in section 15-8-17?

[nearlythere]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

There may be a essential clue there; the rear demister is part of the Smartshield circuit and per section 15-8-14 of the factory workshop manual, it needs to be working correctly for the fobs to be trained or programmed. Have you, or you able to, completed all the tests in section 15-8-17?

Cheers blue, Not yet.

[WagonJunkie]

aussieblue beat me to it.

I think at the very least you'd need to jimmy rig the demister so that it's a complete circuit?
Or fix it properly.

Then get Forscan & the correct OBD cable (Ford specific) and go from there.

It would be good to know a bit more about what the locksmith did, and did not do exactly...

[nearlythere]

Originally Posted by WagonJunkie

aussieblue beat me to it.

I think at the very least you'd need to jimmy rig the demister so that it's a complete circuit?
Or fix it properly.

Then get Forscan & the correct OBD cable (Ford specific) and go from there.

It would be good to know a bit more about what the locksmith did, and did not do exactly...

Hi mate, Not sure if your post is referring to me or not.


But anyway...Here goes.


Dad had the ute for 5 years, Never drove it much but it never failed to start unless the battery was flat as it always drained it. So he'd leave it disconnected until he needed it again.
When I went to start it, it started fine BUT i left the battery connected for 2 weeks and the next time I went to start it, it was dead flat and i mean DEAD. So I charged the battery, it wound over 3 times then that was it, the immobilizer kicked in and also disabled the starter.
Thought no worry's I'll get Forscan, extended licence and an OBD.
Connected to ute no probs, erased keys and door locks cycled to indicate erase and in learn mode. But it just will not program the keys. Turn ignition on within 10 seconds and 2nd key within 5 seconds and nothing happens even after 30 minutes. Click ok or turn ignition off and after 10 seconds door cycle to indicate learning mode has exited. Both keys are fine and I'm using OBD EX as recommended by Forscan.
I get DTC's
Aircon, fuel gauge, abs, seatbelts, and theft detected vehicle immobilized.
I've cleared them and tried again. Updated all drivers, still the same.
I've checked all connectors and all are clean.
I did get fault in ECU error though but I think communication errors are found when nothing is paired BEM to ECU.
Everything works on the ute except programming keys like the coil around the ignition is not reading the key. Locksmith got as far as i did and found no errors ( weird ) He tested the transceiverand it cam up fine.
I'm starting to think the BCM is cooked somewhere, I get no errors on forscan to say the transceiver is faulty, I even unplug the transceiver and still get no errors! So i'm thinking the key reader of the BCM circuit is stuffed. As for the rear window the element is intact, the lights comes on and I can hear the relay to it.
I also have another AU late S1 XR6 that lost it's marriage.
Faulty BCM and had a dicky cabin fusebox.
All that now operates the body functions but i get PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE INTERRUPTED when i goto erase the keys.
Bloody AU's!

[nearlythere]

Also the XR8 has 350k and the ECU and BCM have never been removed. And 20 years old so..
Also the XR6 ute has a olive BEM from a Fairmont so a 4 door. But it should work ok? Missing 2 doors is all.

[asimplelife]

Originally Posted by asimplelife

You have a blue BEM so my logic was wrong about them all being pink.
That also means I can't be sure now they are the same for utes, sedans and wagons.

Apologies for quoting myself.
I found the following clarification in the booklet "Ford Service - Training Institute - New Model Introduction - AU Series II" page 2-3;

BEM

• The Body Electronic Module (BEM) now has some additional features. New colours identify BEM for AU II Falcon.
• PINK - High series.
• BLUE - Forte S and Ute's.

New features are listed below;

• Door lock/unlock button on all vehicles.
• Key out courtesy light.
• Driver's door only unlock (two step unlock)
• Panic button in key fob.

(I thought "high series" referred to the bonnet? So did a Series II Forte S sedan still have the original low bonnet? I thought only the Series II Ute's and XR's still had the original low bonnet?)