Radio control

[.:4:.]

Well a session at the park with my official test driver. So we set his phone up to bluetooth to the short course truck. So told it the 18/50 gears and whatever. He recons the centre diff does make it handle better at low speeds but doing speed runs on the field the front tyres balloon. Yeah thats just too many cooks in the kitchen stuff, 3 open diffs, it'll do that. My estimate was 100, it did 103kmh. Not earth shattering, but still, not half bad in my book.
I was just hitting the mounds left behind by the council with my monster truck.
What was kinda funny, prolly 200m away a lady was walking her bulldog (it wasnt a french one but a nugget) off the leash and that thing bolted towards the rc cars. Dogs hate rc cars. But her dog was a pussy cat, wanted pats etc. So appologised as its a park thats probably more for walking the dog. To be fair, if theres people around my son and i dont run rc cars because they are kind of annoying.
It was my kids birthday last week, and id been on his back for over a year about getting a spare body for his monster truck. He was very much maybe later. Back then they were available for about $120. So not cheap, but i kept on his back as prices went up then they stoped making the exact one he had. But he wanted the exact one he had. So that was part of his birthday present. I found 1 in australia. Found a few in the us and germany, but add postage and cost goes through the roof. Properly through the roof.
Kid asks me if i dont mind what it cost? So i said, when i first got on you you could get one at parra, rydalmere, castle hill anywhere for $120. His, because he sat on his hands for so long, yep, $177 but the only one i could find.
Does he need a new body? No. But yes. Reason being you give no craps about beating up the opd body when you have a fresh one to make the thing look good on the shelf.

[.:4:.]

I replaced the electronic speed controller in the monster truck yesterday. Unlike the 4 ive blown up before, this time i changed it when the thing was just being lazy but not dead yet. So untested, asked my kid his weapon of choice. He normally says short course truck, but knowing id changed something in the monster truck he chose that instead. Its deffinately got the pep back in its step. So as it had been raining the oval was half under water. But still, not quite enough space to run it out completely, still it did 136. So very healthy. Enough space to run the short course truck out, it did 104 which im calling that as fast for what it is.

[.:4:.]

So last sunday my kid finally bought out his monster truck for a run at the park. His deal was he wouldnt untill he had a new body but it had to be the same as his original body. That way he can beat up the old one but have a nice one to make it look good on the shelf later.
So i dones that. It wasnt easy to get and price reflected that. They do not make his specific body in the original release paint scheme anymore. Its licenced by ford so i reckon the licence expired or something. Anyrate he has one.
So im a bit dissapointed. His truck he has had for 6 years. It has less cosmetic damage on it and the original body after 6 years then me 15 seconds into running either of my cars when they were new.
So thats a good character trait, his truck is mint.
Only issue with it, and i think he thought he would get in trouble, his receiver is stuffed, so range is only a 25m radius. He was a tad surprised when i said I'll get him a new receiver, its 6 years old and otherwise mint, things wear out.
So he binned the stock brushed motor and esc years back in favour of a programmable brushless esc and 4000kv brushless motor. So even in the usable 50m, its not slow.
Which gets my to my next point. So stop start driving like he was restricted to puts more load on the motor and electronics and creates more heat. If your constantly running, less heat. So after going through his 5200mah 2s battery stop start, his motor and esc werent even warm. After it gets its new receiver, the young blokes truck needs more gears. Not overgearing and overheating, but enough so the thing is faster and actually warms up.
So in his truck, the stop start, with the short gears werent working the motor in the slightest. Plenty of room for potential with his current setup for cheap. Also more potential as his motor and esc are 3s capable and he chooses to run 2s. I have 3s batteries he can use to unlock the beast within.

[.:4:.]

Last sunday, did rc with the kid. He didnt bring out his monster truck as it has a bum receiver, but he is smart. I had a new receiver for him, but he knows they take 2 minutes to change, pairing them to the radio 'should' take 20 seconds but always takes half an hour. So we ran my 2 trucks. I did make a $10 bet with him beforehand. Which would break 1st. He said monster truck, i said shortcourse truck. So needless to say he ran the sct and i ran the monster truck. Neither broke so all bets were off.
For the 1st time in a long time the ground on the feild wasnt water logged, council had just mown it. The mounds of woodchips off to the side were still there, so conditions were great.
So the short course truck, both my kid and i know it gears out at 104. But being good conditions my boy thought it might go faster. So that thing accelerates quick and gears out in around 50m. With probably about 200m of useable feild, kid did that, geared out stayed in it. Yep 104 1st run. He did about 9 runs in total, and 104 is its number.
Speed runs are kind of stupid. Even drag racing has science towards it, ie timed over a set distance.
But anyhow, i was off to the side doing monster truck things, as in can i drive over that, can i jump that.. My kid egged me on to do a speed run in the monster truck. Again, he has done it before in it so have i. It'll do 146. Ran it out, it did 147, ran it back it did 145. So im sticking with 146 as that trucks number.
So with the more usable space, more flat out usage, things only got sorta warm even though batteries lasted longer. So no cool down, straight up battery swaps and send again.
The nice part was, ground being dry, no cleaning next day. Even though things were getting sent 10ft into the air, i find thats not what typically breaks stuff. Its normally when you hit a really soft muddy spot at speed where suspension lets go or axles say no. But there was none of that.

[.:4:.]

So going from a slipper clutch to a centre diff in the short course truck, the main thing i liked was the fact its lasted and with 4 wheels on the ground it handles really well. So thats what the truck is designed for, but not what its used for. So no more replacing clutches, but 4x4 stuff, the front and rear diffs are really loose open diffs. I plan to keep them that way for handling. Unlike my monster truck, it has a stiff centre diff from factory and i stiffened up the front and rear diffs for maximum 4x4 off road action.
The loose as centre diff in the short course truck, doing 4x4 stuff, 3 diffs, path of least resistance.... yeah on flat ground with reasonable traction, it was a form of traction controll. Lift the fronts, all power to the front wheels. Lift a single wheel, all power to that single wheel. So 4x4 stuff it was a 1x4. So i did what i did in the front and rear diffs in the monster truck. Pulled the centre diff and pumped it with silicone. Not the mad expensive putty you can buy for rc cars. Anything thicker then the runny silicone grease in it will do. So roofers silicone it was. Let that set for 24 hours.
So i havent tested it. My kid wanted to. He is a man of few words, so when asked if its better he just says its good. But upon observation, the centre diff no longer acts as mechanical traction control on the flats. Off roady stuff. The front and rear diffs still send power to the path of least resistance, but the centre sends power to both front and rear. So its better for what its not designed to do.

[.:4:.]

Hmmmm. So yesterday i ran my short course truck to confirm my centre diff modifications turned it from awd to 4x4.
I was using the 1 battery thats a tad dicky. Turns out, its not a bad idea to use your head.
So melted battery connectors, not an issue. I have spares.
I put the car to the side. Changed the connector on that, but if thats ****ed, didnt want to deal with it.
The battery, well both my chargers wanted nothing to do with the battery, it was done. So in the freezer it went. Freezer you may ask? Lipo batteries you have to dispose of properly. A stuffed one, in the freezer it wont overheat and randomly explode.
Ran said rc car today with my other battery. Runs good. Didnt kill any of the electronics. Sucks, but i have new batteries on the way.

[PHANTMXR6]

Bucket of salted water is good for dud lipo’s too.

[.:4:.]

I got the 2 new 3s lipos to replace the 1 bum one last tuesday. 1st one ballance charged as per usual. They come with a maintenance charger on them so thats straight forward. The second new battery. Well, not the same case. It was way off. So they are 3 cell lipos, fully charged = 4.2v per cell. 1st was even at 3.6v per cell so charged no issue. 2nd battery, it was 3.7, 2.4 and 3.2. So my fancy charger said nope. So i did what danny dont does. Set my charger to nihm and blasted it for 5 minutes keeping an eye out for cells puffing or getting warm. Righto, not the recomended method, but set to lipo ballance, the charger recognised the battery. So new battery 1 took 40 minutes to ballance charge. New battery 2 i marked with an X. It took about 5 hours to ballance. Nothing sus heat wise or anything, just took ages so i had a late night.
Ran the sus battery. Ran fine. I was half expecting it to spontaneously combust. It did not. Ran it out and slapped it on the charger after it cooled down. 40 minutes on ballance and its good.

[.:4:.]

So my short course truck. Theres no factory upgrade for a wheelie bar. But it goes good, any speed under say 70 if you nail it, its on the rear bar. So no aftermarket wheelie bar fits the stock rear bumper assy. So today i fitted an aftermarket rear assy and wheelie bar. The aftermarket rear assembly is way more rigid. My main issue with the stock one was it would flex and impact the body, hence why the rear of the body was cracked and getting a bit hows it going. I did also get a new body, but until the original is bad, ill stick with it.

[.:4:.]

Seriously, if its not 1 thing its another. So i swapped out the steering servo in my monster truck today, everything steering relateted looked good. Its a bit of a fiddly job. Not hard, just fiddly. So testing the thing and dialing in steering trim it acted up a bit. Ahhhh, if you want to **** me, atleast take me out for dinner first. The servo rod decided to bend on the test run. It was straight when it was taken off and re fitted, but whilst it didnt snap, it said no. End of the world? No. Its my cheap part thats the weak link in the steering, so last time i snapped one i bought 2. A time pain, as in i had to pull apart the same stuff twice, but i had a new one. Out of annoyance i have ordered a metal servo link. Future me will regret that. The stock plastic one is cheap and my weak link. The metal one is still cheap (talking $6 V $14) but will probably move the failure point up the line to expensive steering stuff. Its all upgraded so other bits are $50+.

[.:4:.]

Made a bit of an impulse buy for my short course truck. So factory optional parts, so my logic is should do atleast something.
For an off road car the thing handled really well. Yeah it has upgraded shocks and springs already.
So i put on swaybars. I havent done my reasearch yet, they are adjustable. So out the pack is how they are at the moment.
Didnt have great expectations, but i was impressed.
I beat the crap out of that thing, but the added stability i can beat on it harder. Yeah thats probably going to cost me through added breakage, but hey, if you dont break it your not trying hard enough.

[.:4:.]

So my official test driver, my son, did his first official test drive of my short course truck since its had a wheelie bar and sway bars fitted.
So, he started off driving it like he used to as he knew the charicteristics of the thing. So before if you got on it to hard too soon it would ride the rear bumper and go a bit left to right and not end too well. Now it rides the wheelie bar and the rear swaybar stops the left to right stuff. So its more confidence making to launch harder. Same thing with cornering at speed. You can brake later and corner faster as the sway bars keep it more stable.
My official test driver did roll the thing way more times then usual. But he knows i dont care, and you only find the limit if you pass the limit.
So i waited for his general consensus before giving my opinion. I agreed with him. Overall it is easier to drive. And much easier to drive fast. The thing is still stock motor and esc. So handling doesnt effect top speed.

[.:4:.]

If theres something i enjoy less then doing the same job twice, its doing the same job 3 times.
So for context. When my kid was working out the limits of the suspension stuff on my short course truck, i was ripping my monster truck. My monster truck i run an adapter for a standard size servo and an aluminium standard servo horn. That works fine but puts the servo arm at a weird angle. So i lost steering. The screw that attaches the arm to the servo horn had ripped out taking the threads with it, so just banging in a new screw was not an option. The 2 minute dodgey fix was shove a pop rivit in and bend it up. Not ideal, but a 30 second fix, it worked.
So stuffed servo horn? Not the end of the world. I have 4 spare plastic ones. So yesterday i pulled apart the sterring stuff, slapped on a plastic servo horn, zeroed out the steering trims and as the fit was different, adjusted the servo linkage so with the trim at zero it would go straight. Gave it a test, yes it went straight but 15 seconds in it lost steering. Yep broke the servo horn. So hooray for me, i got to pull the thing appart again. Atleast this time i didnt need to align the thing. The plastic horns put the servo link at slightly less of a weird angle. So anyhow horn 2 was fine, ran the thing for about 10 minutes and decided to check the mailbox. Hmmmmmmm.
So the factory option adapter for regular size servos that i had is plastic. It flexed, so months ago i ordered an alloy one from germany of all places . Yep, that was what was in the mailbox. It also came with an alloy sevo horn thats properly spaced out to fit the car. So that was round 3 of pulling the car back appart. Because the servo horn actually lines up with the servo linkage, well that meant round 2 of steering alignment. So im happy with the end result, the journy was a tad bit annoying.

[.:4:.]

Did rc with my son today. Put new bodys on both cars, so both looked fresh. Exhibit A:

So i said be nice to it. Well, yeah fun ensued, so whilst nothing broke, things got pretty rowdy and fun was had. The new bodies are no longer mint..

[ford71V8]

Awwsome, glad you put a pic up

[.:4:.]

So today doing rc, had to stop. There was a bloke walking his dog. Dogs hate rc cars. So walked over to the bloke with my kid, just to say if your dog goes nuts its because of us doing rc over there. The dude was super chill, he said his lab chloe was old, half deaf and half blind. She deffinately did not mind a pat and a belly rub. So yeah, back into it. Later on old mate and his dog comes up and asks. So yes, toy cars. A hobby is that, playing with stuff. So thats the disclaimer. So i asked him, which do you think is faster? He said the white one. I asked him how fast you reckon it goes? He said 30. The white one is the slow one and does 104. Green one does 146. It was orange this morning, the white one was blue on sunday.
Yeah, its a hobby, you dont throw money at pointless crap if you get zero enjoyment out of it.
So toy cars, yes. Repercussions of going too fast in a real car on the street? Much worse then breaking an rc car. Damage your own car if you come acropper, damage to yourself, damage to other peoples property and even worse, hurting another person. Go fast with an rc car, you cant cop a speeding fine. Smash the thing, only thing it hurts is your bank balance replacing parts. The white short course truck, as it sits, so not including prior broken bits and not including swapping the body. About 1300. Its stock with suspension and a few other bits.
The orange one turned green. Dont ask. Its not 1300.

[.:4:.]

Oh, and before anybody says anything, yes the rims on the monster truck do look dumb. However the 12 screws in them are real, they are proper beadlocks. Tyres are belted. Why? Well going over 100 standard issue tyres let go and for whatever reason the thing just heads towards the nearest immovable object and breaks a heap of stuff.
Done that a few times.
So thats why i run belted tyres on beadlocks. Even though the look a bit goofy.

[.:4:.]

Finally had it happen today. Never had an issue with lipo batteries, kinda paranoid about them. But today had one puff up and fail. It didnt burst into flames which would have looked cool, but would have burnt my short course truck to the ground. So pretty happy that didnt happen.
But on a much lighter note, a battery doing bad things is not the end of the world, my kid and I had a good session.
I had the man to man conversation with my kid a few weeks back. It was do you know all the swear words? He said yes. I said do not swear around people, but its ok around me if its appropriate.
So my kid did a sick jump with my monster truck. Launched the thing a solid 11 foot high but landed in the scrub down an embankment. He goes 'oh ****', '****, sorry dad'. Thats appropriate swearing. Only issue was, yeah it was an epic jump, but my kid has a cast on his hand so i had to climb down to retrieve the rc car.

[.:4:.]

So last tuesday my kid and myself were doing rc. The bloke we spoke to a couple weeks earlier was walking his lovely old lab chloe. We just kept on about our business as we knew his dog doesnt care. After exercising his lovely old girl he came over for a chat. So my kid found his words and was having a chat, this bloke after last time we spoke sorta understood the whole hobby thing. But he asked,if theres money in these things, why do we beat the crap out of them?
So i had to sort of explain it. Easy way to explain was to reference that guy everyone knows. You know goes to a car dealership, buys the top of the line 4x4, fully options it, gets it and takes it to arb or whoever to get all the aftermarket stuff fitted then is too scared to take it on a gravel driveway, let alone a dirt road, but at the pub is more then happy to brag about the 9000kg winch on it that will never be used.
Not the case withy rc cars. Both started out stock. Break something, well, replace like with like you'll probably break it again. So therefore upgrade parts. So not a massive kick in the wallet all at once, just parts here or there over a long time. Yeah a couple things were done because i wanted to go faster, but in general its all done to beef things up so you can beat the crap out of them and they hold up fine. Its more fun that way. The moment you concern yourself about cost and then baby something, especially in my case, toy cars, its no longer fun anymore.

[.:4:.]

Anhow, glad it happened to me.
So just for something to do i ran my short course truck. 30 seconds in it started chattering. I gave it a minute.
Yep, esc crapped its dacks.
No thats not an issue to me, its the first for that car and that car has seen a lot of abuse.
My monster truck is on esc 5 or 6 and on its 3rd motor.
No ill speak towards manufacturers, i beat the life out of parts.
Anyhow, got the replacement electronic speed controller in the short course truck today. I had my concerns the motor was shagged, motor is apples. 2 reasons i went with a stock electronic speed controller are. Talks to the bluetooth so can be easily adjusted and 2. The thing doesnt need to go any faster.
That sounds dumb coming from me when you read about my monster truck that does what danny dont does. The short course truck does a tad over 100, mods are handling wise, so corners. Its different to a monster truck.

[.:4:.]

Decided to do a nut and bolt check on my monster truck. That thing has been super reliable for months now. Hmmmmmm. Glad i looked at it. Pretty much every screw in the steering had backed out. To be fair, not much on that thing is stock, all the steering components are aftermarket aluminium with stainless hardware. So ally =soft, stainless = hard so i try to not go too nuts on loctite as if i need to take out an stainless screw i dont want to bring out the ally threads with it.
Only other thing i saw that was off. A bent spring and a cracked spring bucket. Ordered replacements, thats cheap. For the time being bent the spring back to round enough and the cracked spring seat should be fine for a few days. So heaps cheaper then an electronic speed controller. Hardest part was finding the part # for the front springs as the ones i run, they are not the factory ones.

[.:4:.]

Well another minor annoyance. Yesterday ran the short course truck again to confirm all is well with the new electronic speed controller. So ill start by stating the obvious. To swap one out, its a couple mounting screws, a few wires to un plug (or plug out if you are irish, asked an irish bloke once why they say that, his answer was out is the opposite of in) reverse the process and jobs a gooden. Nothing remotely mechanical.
Second test run. Thing turned on fine, fans were on. It went 3 feet, motor revved to the max whilst the thing coasted to a stop. No drive. My instant thought was the grub screw on the pinion backed out, thats not uncommon. Before removing the gear cover i noticed the motor had not shifted, so not a gear mesh issue, had to be the pinion. Nah wasnt the pinion, the spur gear was completely stripped. So i never had that issue when i was running slipper clutches as i had a steel spur gear. Main issue with slipper clutches is they are fragile, or atleast i broke a couple. So i have a much stronger centre diff in place of the slipper clutch. Diffs fine, but im yet to find a steel spur to fit the diff. Theyre different to the ones for the poxy clutch setups.
Not the end of the world. Whilst i had a nylon 50t spur in it, the one it munched, and not a spare 50t. I did swap in the spare 52t i had. I did order a couple 50s for it. The way things work out for me is order 2 you'll only ever need 1. And theyre only $8 each.

[.:4:.]

Last time i was doing rc with my boy, the friendly competition was hitting a small maybe 8 inch mound of sand with just the monster truck, biggest jump wins. I had just replaced the bent spring and spring bucket like for like. So my kid hits the mound a few times at 40-50kph getting about 2 to 3 foot of air and landing about 3m away. Not terrible but dunno why he didnt go full send. So i did. Also had probably the biggest barney ever with the monster truck. Ran it back maybe 60m then flat stick on the slick grass, the thing was skating about so steering was rendered almost pointless. Just before hitting the jump the thing kicked sideways doing about 100kmh hit the side of the small mound and straight into a post. The thing went about 12 foot in the air, landed 10m away then cartwheeled for another 15m but ended up on its wheels and drove back. So dad wins. My kid tried to protest as i hit something. But i got off on the well set in rules i have. Do not intentionaly hit things. This was not intentional. Didnt bother looking over the truck as it still drove alright and had battery left, so if it was busted it still worked.
Next day i did give an inspection. I have spare arms, shock towers, steering knuckles, bumpers, bash plates, the stuff you typically break. But no, what a tank. It defys logic as to how nothing broke considering ive snapped stuff before on that thing doing nothing more then walking pace.

[Late braker]

I love your passion. You’re just really into it. So cool. I’m investigating slot cars (Scalextric/Carrera). Also while in the hobby store saw a Tamiya RC Tyrell 6 wheeler F1. I think it was a ready to run not a kit. Tempted

[.:4:.]

Before covid there was a proper slot car track near my house. They shut up shop during covid though. My son and i used to frequent that place. They had 3 proper wooden 6 lane tracks. We both started off with scalectrix cars but after a while went to revos. The revos were ally chassis things designed for racing. So did everything better. We never raced them even though that place had a league going so diferent classes, scruitineering, a buy in so top 3 out of the finals take home cash.
There actually is a bit of science to slot cars when you get into it a bit. Stuff like a dirty wooden track (as in covered with rubber), rubber rear tyres work better, but a clean wooden track foam rear tyres work better. As the cars steer off the guide not the front tyres, all the fast guys coat the front tyres with superglue to make them slippery, reduce front end friction.
As for rc, if your just starting out, theres a few things to take into consideration. 1st is intended use. Theres many different styles of rc cars. 2nd is parts availability and price. So regardless of if its a road car, drift car, off road whatever, at some point something will break. And the 3rd to consider, when starting out, you dont need the fastest most expensive car, however its worth investigating whether there is a higher spec of the same car so in the future if you choose to do upgrades, bits are easy and you know they will fit. So my example here is my 4x4 short course truck. The base has a brushed motor but same chassis. I went next spec up, so same thing just brushless motor stock. My reasoning was i didnt want to spend big if i didnt know if id like the platform. Snapped an axle, no worries bought a set for the heavy duty version that went straight in. Broke a shock, plastic shocks in the bin, ally ones from the model up went straight in. For that truck, there is plenty of aftermarket support and a stack of factory upgrades too.
Same with my monster truck. Knowing parts are cheap and redily available is why im not concerned about my kid or myself beating on them hard. Its more fun that way then taking it easy because parts are expensive, not available at all, or take 6 weeks to get in.

[DJM83]

Its been nearly 12 mths since ive used mine, and ive got some time off so i might charge it up and go for a run. Batteries probably cooked though, see how i go.

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Its been nearly 12 mths since ive used mine, and ive got some time off so i might charge it up and go for a run. Batteries probably cooked though, see how i go.

Eh, your charger should tell you if the batteries are sad. If anything, the AA batteries in the radio will be the pain if they're dead and you don't have any in the bottom draw in the kitchen. Or maybe its just me, I hate going up the shop for just 1 item. Parking is always a pain and at my local, the car park there brings out the stupidity in the best of people.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by .:4:.

Eh, your charger should tell you if the batteries are sad. If anything, the AA batteries in the radio will be the pain if they're dead and you don't have any in the bottom draw in the kitchen. Or maybe its just me, I hate going up the shop for just 1 item. Parking is always a pain and at my local, the car park there brings out the stupidity in the best of people.

Yeah for sure, ill whack it on the charge and see how it goes. Fingers crossed its still good to go.
Local track here isnt a problem always plenty space.
But where i ride my bike theres some decent space also, i took it there last year. Was good fun

[.:4:.]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Yeah for sure, ill whack it on the charge and see how it goes. Fingers crossed its still good to go.
Local track here isnt a problem always plenty space.
But where i ride my bike theres some decent space also, i took it there last year. Was good fun

Its a Losi rey isnt it? You dont need a track, just terrain.
Or space depending. To be fair, say running an offroad car on just a flat cricket oval isnt much fun. No challenge, or challenge to be made. Its flat. Wow, go fast in a straight line, turn fast with no obstacles to hit, rinse and repeat. So booring.
Where my kid and I run my cars, its an easement due to the powerlines thats about 5 kays long in total. Its a bit odd as the top bit is a cricket oval, then steps down to a floodway, a few creeks that feed another creek that turns into the paramatta river then goes further as parklands.
So, typically we run up top near and on the oval. So its a community sports ground, canteen, public bog block, kids play area etc. We do not run on or near the kids play area as to not mess that up, but the council after they re did that area left behind mounds of woodchips and stuff off to the side. So for the best part, that's our terrain. If there's families using the play area, we move down the easement, same if people are walking their dogs. Just being courteous. RC cars are annoying to pretty well everyone except the person running it. I say that, and I run electric. Nitro or larger scale 2 stroke would absolutely even do my head in running one of those.

[.:4:.]

So yesterday, my 6s battery charger decided to release its life smoke. If you dont know, anything electrical runs on smoke, so if that smoke gets released then it stops working.
So i went down the hobby shoppe and its the same bloke there who was there 14 years ago. So i asked for a 6s charger that'll do 6 amps. He asks helicopter? I sad no, car.
He did his due diligence by pointing out 6s rc cars run series 3s batteries and even helicopters that run single 6s typically only run 3500mah to 4500mah batteries. But i said nope, i run a single 6000mah 6s. So righto there was 2 options for the same price, i asked which is better? Both rated to 6s 7A. He was upfront and said he has never had anyone ask about 6000mah 6s on either so has no feedback. So i picked one based purely on looks.
So paid the bloke, then he asks what car do i have that runs a single 6s battery not series 3s' batteries? So i gave him the rundown, he is an rc nerd so understood what i was on about. So in short a 4s traxxas maxx with 6s esc and 6s motor. He also understood the trials and tribulations of making something fit that doesnt.
He did question me as to why as those trucks on 4s are quick. Dunno if there is a correct answer, but 50% more power makes them quicker. Good bloke to deal with.