Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Bugger, if I'd known about the virtues of Wet Coat when I popped in to pick these up on the weekend, I would have grabbed some.



Oh, and a question or two re Bathe. In the on-line images, the Bathe product is a blue colour, but the bottle I got is a clear liquid. Has there been a product change? A formula change?

And what ratio should I be using it as a foam? The website only indicates ratios for bucket washing.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Azzurros are the worst, I literally just changed my brake pads on my Sportsman for less dust because im sick of cleaning them

My first car was an AU III Fairmont with these horrible wheels...............





They were the most difficult wheel I have ever had to wash, mainly because at the time I just didn't know what I was doing. Getting into the very corers of those spokes was extremely difficult.

I ended up replacing those wheels with the classic Tickford 5 spokes, a breeze to clean and that machined face on the spokes shimmered in motion.





That car was a peach and I still miss it. I have a feeling the first owner towed with it for the first 54,000 km, the big tow bar was the first clue, the scraped mud flaps the second clue, the occasional harsh shift down to second the third. I had to replace a leaking power steering rack at about 65,000 km, the front ball joints were clunky and addressed at the dealer. Other than that, it was the perfect first car, very unassuming in old man burgundy............she could pull a single pegger burnout like a champion too!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Bugger, if I'd known about the virtues of Wet Coat when I popped in to pick these up on the weekend, I would have grabbed some.

image

Oh, and a question or two re Bathe. In the on-line images, the Bathe product is a blue colour, but the bottle I got is a clear liquid. Has there been a product change? A formula change?

And what ratio should I be using it as a foam? The website only indicates ratios for bucket washing.

I was also confused by the colour difference between the manufacturer images and the actual product. No idea why it's like that.

Gyeon recommend Bathe is diluted at 500:1, which would be about 20ml per 10lt bucket. For a foam cannon, I use about 90ml per 910ml of water, so 10:1. Being so concentrated, you could back that down to 40-50ml if you want.

https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/bathe-2/

This website makes dilution calculations a breeze -
https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

[DFB FGXR6]

Right, Bowden's Snow Job v2...................



As mentioned in earlier posts, the original formulation of Snow Job was lacking in cleaning power and too thick for easy measuring. Bowden's claim to have completely reformulated the soap to address those shortcomings.

Like the original, Snow Job foam like a champion with thick, clingy foam.







But the elephant in the room is, does the new Snow Job actually clean? Um, well, I think so. There were a couple of spots it didn't touch that needed removal after the wash, certainly better the v1 but probably not as good as Reset, Snow, GSF...............

Slickness was medium level and the scent somewhat odd, like a commercial cleaning solution used to clean primary schools. One other slight drawback was some minor reactivation during the rinse process.

On the whole, it's much improved but still lacking compared to the benchmarks that are either less money or only slightly more. If you want a soap that's readily available, Gyeon Bathe from Repco smashes Snow Job out of the park.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by T3rminator

The sale on the Gyeon Wet Coat at Repco finishes tonight. Both my local stores have run out. But you can order online today on the special, and pick it up after sale ends.

Thanks.
Picked up some this arvo.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I was also confused by the colour difference between the manufacturer images and the actual product. No idea why it's like that.

Gyeon recommend Bathe is diluted at 500:1, which would be about 20ml per 10lt bucket. For a foam cannon, I use about 90ml per 910ml of water, so 10:1. Being so concentrated, you could back that down to 40-50ml if you want.

https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/bathe-2/

This website makes dilution calculations a breeze -
https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio

Thanks, DFB. I'll start with around 40ml and see how I go. I did look at the gyeon website but missed that ratio.

Originally Posted by DJM83

Thanks.
Picked up some this arvo.

I did, too. Got the locals last bottle. And then I saw this on the clearance table and couldn't pass it up for $12!

[DFB FGXR6]

A couple of tips regarding Gyeon Wet Coat and other water activated spray sealants -





- The product will last longer when the surface to be treated is well cleaned.

- Try not overapply, a little goes a long way.

- Work quickly in manageable sections. For example, one wheel or panel at a time. Spray and then rinse immediately.

- Leaving the product too long before rinsing or if applied in hot direct sun can lead to spotting issues.

- On the bodywork, start from the top and work your way down. Apply to the roof, then the bonnet and boot followed by the adjacent quarter panels. Then do the doors and bumpers. Doing this way helps reduce the amount of rinsing needed to clear the residue from the paint.

- I tend to avoid directly spraying the product on glass, it can cause spotting on this surface.

- You can also use these products to coat exhaust tips and wheel arch liners, even really intricate front grills that would otherwise require hours of attention.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

A couple of tips regarding Gyeon Wet Coat and other water activated spray sealants -

image

image

- The product will last longer when the surface to be treated is well cleaned.

- Try not overapply, a little goes a long way.

- Work quickly in manageable sections. For example, one wheel or panel at a time. Spray and then rinse immediately.

- Leaving the product too long before rinsing or if applied in hot direct sun can lead to spotting issues.

- On the bodywork, start from the top and work your way down. Apply to the roof, then the bonnet and boot followed by the adjacent quarter panels. Then do the doors and bumpers. Doing this way helps reduce the amount of rinsing needed to clear the residue from the paint.

- I tend to avoid directly spraying the product on glass, it can cause spotting on this surface.

- You can also use these products to coat exhaust tips and wheel arch liners, even really intricate front grills that would otherwise require hours of attention.

image

Thanks DFB, all good tips. I particularly like the tip re grills, as that will be perfect for the XR8.

This may be a silly question, but where in the cleaning/detailing process do you use Wet Coat? After you've cleaned the car but before you dry it off? Or do you dry it off, apply Wet Coat, rinse and then have to dry it all off again? For me, that's the hardest part about most of the detailing products, is trying to work where to slot everything in the process to minimise the amount of effort, and repetition, required to achieve a good outcome.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks DFB, all good tips. I particularly like the tip re grills, as that will be perfect for the XR8.

This may be a silly question, but where in the cleaning/detailing process do you use Wet Coat? After you've cleaned the car but before you dry it off? Or do you dry it off, apply Wet Coat, rinse and then have to dry it all off again? For me, that's the hardest part about most of the detailing products, is trying to work where to slot everything in the process to minimise the amount of effort, and repetition, required to achieve a good outcome.

What do you use to dry?
Instructions say use only on a wet/cool car. So id imagine finish washing spray it on, hose off then dry.
https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/wetcoat/

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DJM83

What do you use to dry?
Instructions say use only on a wet/cool car. So id imagine finish washing spray it on, hose off then dry.
https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/wetcoat/

Thanks. Didn't have the bottle handy so wasn't sure about whether it was applied wet or dry. Applying it wet makes it a lot easier.

For drying, I use the sheeting method first, then follow that up with some drying towels: I have the tempest and also a Bowden's BGS

[prydey]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks. Didn't have the bottle handy so wasn't sure about whether it was applied wet or dry. Applying it wet makes it a lot easier.

For drying, I use the sheeting method first, then follow that up with some drying towels: I have the tempest and also a Bowden's BGS

If you ever consider buying more drying towels, I highly recommend 'the gauntlet' by the rag company
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...r-drying-towel

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by prydey

If you ever consider buying more drying towels, I highly recommend 'the gauntlet' by the rag company
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...r-drying-towel

Thanks, but I'm pretty happy with the Tempests and they get great reviews: 633 reviews on waxit, 546 are 5 star, 48 are 4, 25 are 3, 13 are 2 and 1 is 1

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks, but I'm pretty happy with the Tempests and they get great reviews: 633 reviews on waxit, 546 are 5 star, 48 are 4, 25 are 3, 13 are 2 and 1 is 1

When your tempest dies, get a gauntlet. I changed from tempest to gauntlet, much better towel

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks. Didn't have the bottle handy so wasn't sure about whether it was applied wet or dry. Applying it wet makes it a lot easier.

For drying, I use the sheeting method first, then follow that up with some drying towels: I have the tempest and also a Bowden's BGS

Only after i had paint corrected on my ute did i discover drying towels.
They are amazing.
Ive got 2 of these Supercells They work a treat!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Thanks DFB, all good tips. I particularly like the tip re grills, as that will be perfect for the XR8.

This may be a silly question, but where in the cleaning/detailing process do you use Wet Coat? After you've cleaned the car but before you dry it off? Or do you dry it off, apply Wet Coat, rinse and then have to dry it all off again? For me, that's the hardest part about most of the detailing products, is trying to work where to slot everything in the process to minimise the amount of effort, and repetition, required to achieve a good outcome.

This is the application process for products like Wet Coat -

1 - Wash the car as normal (wheels & body)
2 - While the car is still wet, apply the product to the area to be treated, then rinse off immediately. Make sure to rinse adjacent areas as you go to remove all residue.
3 - Dry the vehicle.

At this point, I want to point out that I really only apply Wet Coat to the bodywork if the car has no or failing protection, customer cars in other words. On my personal cars, Wet Coat is only used to treat wheels and exhausts. For paintwork, I have a solid base layer of protection that is topped during the drying process, more on that in a second.

You drying process is sound, although I would add in a drying aid to your process to provide lubrication and add additional gloss, all in one step. Drying Aid's are typically quick detailers or spray sealants, this is where the topping of your base layer protection happens, depending on the product.

Suitable products include the huge variety of quick detailers like Boss Gloss, Meguiar's Last Touch and P&S Paint Gloss (my favorite) through to spray sealants like NV Boost v2, Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer or P&S Bead Maker. I really like Bead Maker as it seems to be compatible with the widest variety of paint protections. Your process here would be -

1 - Wash the vehicle.
2 - Use a blower or the sheeting technique to remove the bulk of the water from the car.
3 - Prime your towel with some product, 3 to 4 sprays.
4 - Work section by section, apply a few sprays per panel, wipe with your towel. I can do this process with one medium Gauntlet Towel or Tempest Jr. Depending on the level of water still left on the car, you may need additional towels.

Adding the drying aid to the process takes a clean car and transforms it to the next level of "clean".

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

When your tempest dies, get a gauntlet. I changed from tempest to gauntlet, much better towel

I went from waffle weave to the plush Tempest towels from Waxit. I loved them, especially the Jr. versions as they are just more manageable when moving around the car. In no way are these dud towels, it's just that the game has moved on.

This is where I progressed from, somewhat mirroring the industry itself.

- Don't judge me, I didn't know any better, but I used Meguiar's Soft Buff Chamois for a long time.



- When I got my XR6 in 2008, I transitioned to large waffle weave towels from Waxit. These served me for a long, long time. Very durable and absorbent. Put it this way, I only just recently decommissioned these.



- I then went into the plush drying towels like the Tempest from Waxit and the Big Green Stucker from Bowden's. These felt great across the paint and were extremely absorbent.



- This is where technology started to change and twist-loop towels became a thing, my first try of something like this was the Waxit Supercell. The big benefit of twist-loop towels is that they are super absorbent, surprisingly so when you look at the thickness of these sort of towels. However, I found them very grabby on the paint, even when using a drying aid.



- My next try of a twist-loop was the FTW's from The Rag Company. These were originally designed for glass to prevent streaking, but they became a popular drying towel as well. These still have a slight amount of gabbiness but are so good that I have nine of them in the cabinet. Due to their size, you will need more of them. Also available in orange or blue if you don't fancy pink.



- The ultimate towel as it stands is the hybrid twist-loop towels like the previously mentioned TRC Gauntlets. These combine the attributes of a twist-loop and blend them with plush microfiber towels like the Tempest. So, they are super absorbent while being smoother to use on the paint. I like the medium size for drying the body and small size for wheels.









Along with ceramic coatings, I think towels have been where the industry has improved the most over the last 20 years.

[DFB FGXR6]

Waxit have Australia Day Specials running at the moment, in addition to a free Boss Wash Mitt for sales over $50 until Friday.

https://www.waxit.com.au/

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...OZgU%3D.MeSg3g

In addition to new BOGO specials -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...uy-one-get-one

[prydey]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

3 - Prime your towel with some product, 3 to 4 sprays.
4 - Work section by section, apply a few sprays per panel, wipe with your towel. I can do this process with one medium Gauntlet Towel or Tempest Jr. Depending on the level of water still left on the car, you may need additional towels.

Adding the drying aid to the process takes a clean car and transforms it to the next level of "clean".

I've only ever used drying aid (boss gloss, until it runs out) as step 3...

I'm interested in your step 4. Just literally spray and wipe. How critical is step 2 when using this method. I don't yet have a blower and I use a pressure washer... Does turning it off just run water through it at mains pressure? I've never tried.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by prydey

I've only ever used drying aid (boss gloss, until it runs out) as step 3...

I'm interested in your step 4. Just literally spray and wipe. How critical is step 2 when using this method. I don't yet have a blower and I use a pressure washer... Does turning it off just run water through it at mains pressure? I've never tried.

Step 3 & 4 are the same thing, I just added the third step to explain that priming the towel before starting is a good thing to do. For whatever reason, a damp rather than completely dry towel is more absorbent. Step 4 is then spray and wipe on the car.

Step 2 or "water sheeting" is the use of an open stream of water to drive the surface water off the panel. It's not something I do as I use a blower, but can be quite effective, especially on ceramic coated vehicles.

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by prydey

If you ever consider buying more drying towels, I highly recommend 'the gauntlet' by the rag company
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...r-drying-towel

Originally Posted by fordomatic

When your tempest dies, get a gauntlet. I changed from tempest to gauntlet, much better towel

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

- snip -

- The ultimate towel as it stands is the hybrid twist-loop towels like the previously mentioned TRC Gauntlets. These combine the attributes of a twist-loop and blend them with plush microfiber towels like the Tempest. So, they are super absorbent while being smoother to use on the paint. I like the medium size for drying the body and small size for wheels.

Ok, ok, I get the message. The Tempest may be good, but the Gauntlet is betterer. I'll add that to my list of 'must get's.

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

This is the application process for products like Wet Coat -

1 - Wash the car as normal (wheels & body)
2 - While the car is still wet, apply the product to the area to be treated, then rinse off immediately. Make sure to rinse adjacent areas as you go to remove all residue.
3 - Dry the vehicle.

At this point, I want to point out that I really only apply Wet Coat to the bodywork if the car has no or failing protection, customer cars in other words. On my personal cars, Wet Coat is only used to treat wheels and exhausts. For paintwork, I have a solid base layer of protection that is topped during the drying process, more on that in a second.

You drying process is sound, although I would add in a drying aid to your process to provide lubrication and add additional gloss, all in one step. Drying Aid's are typically quick detailers or spray sealants, this is where the topping of your base layer protection happens, depending on the product.

Suitable products include the huge variety of quick detailers like Boss Gloss, Meguiar's Last Touch and P&S Paint Gloss (my favorite) through to spray sealants like NV Boost v2, Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer or P&S Bead Maker. I really like Bead Maker as it seems to be compatible with the widest variety of paint protections. Your process here would be -

1 - Wash the vehicle.
2 - Use a blower or the sheeting technique to remove the bulk of the water from the car.
3 - Prime your towel with some product, 3 to 4 sprays.
4 - Work section by section, apply a few sprays per panel, wipe with your towel. I can do this process with one medium Gauntlet Towel or Tempest Jr. Depending on the level of water still left on the car, you may need additional towels.

Adding the drying aid to the process takes a clean car and transforms it to the next level of "clean".

I don't have any of the highlighted products, but I do have some Zaino Z-6 Gloss Enhancer spray. I've looked on their website and I can't see anything that indicates that it can be used as a drying aid. Would it be suitable or not?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Ok, ok, I get the message. The Tempest may be good, but the Gauntlet is betterer. I'll add that to my list of 'must get's.

I don't have any of the highlighted products, but I do have some Zaino Z-6 Gloss Enhancer spray. I've looked on their website and I can't see anything that indicates that it can be used as a drying aid. Would it be suitable or not?

It looks and sounds a little finicky, but should be fine. You could also follow their reccomendation of diluting it at 1:1 -

https://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-6.html

"Please note: Using the product in its original concentration will provide the best results. However, some people may find it difficult to evenly spray Z-6™ in its extremely high concentration. To make Z-6™ Ultra Clean more user-friendly, you may dilute the product with distilled water up to a ratio of 1 to 1 to help you get better results. Test by diluting with small proportions until you find what works best for you. Again, for optimal results, it is best not to dilute Z-6™ Ultra Clean."

If you do end up ordering a Gauntlet, look into adding something like P&S Paint Gloss, which I find very, very easy to use. Paint Gloss is a typical quick detailer and offers little to no protection, just gloss. P&S Bead Maker adds some short-term protection along with extreme gloss and slickness and is generally easy to use and does not require dilution.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...992edbf8&_ss=r



https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...0a7c8497&_ss=r



I haven't asked, but what are you using for your base layer protection?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

DFB’s Soap Shoot Out

In detailing, soap is used for a couple of key reasons.
-To assist in the removal of dirt and contamination
-To provide lubrication during the removal of said dirt and contamination.

Soap is administered via a foam cannon and/or via a bucket and wash media (mitt, pad or sponge).

Having tried a large variety of soaps over the years, this a run-down of each I have used so far.

The first 3 soaps are what I consider the top 3 maintenance soaps on the market. These are the products that I use and recommend the most. The difference between the three is minor, choosing any of these will be a winner.

Carpro Reset – In my opinion, the best maintenance soap on the market. Exceptional foaming, exceptional slickness, exceptional scent and pH neutral. Reset is expensive, but this is a classic case of you get what you pay for. I keep trying different soaps, but nothing really seems to be able to match Reset as a total package.

Lubrication – 10/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – Hard to describe, it’s simply brilliant!
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 10/10

image

Koch Chemie GSF – My current number two, GSF is a pH neutral soap making it ideal for maintenance washing, offering supreme lubricity and brilliant foam quality. It’s the scent that really seals the deal, one of THE BEST smelling products in the detailing world. Again, an expensive soap, but the user experience is bloody brilliant.

Lubrication – 10/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – Cherry
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 10/10

image

NV Snow – Number three on my list, this was the first soap I bought from a specialist supplier, a massive step up from what I had been using up to that point. Snow ticks every box, slickness, cleaning ability, foam quality, easy rinsing and pleasant scent. This soap is a runnier liquid, making it easy to measure and pour.

Lubrication – 10/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – “Pleasant”
PH Level – 7.2 (Note – I have seen numbers as high as 9.9)
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 10/10

image

The next three are my top 3 decontamination / strip soaps. Use these for occasional deep cleaning or in preparation for a new wax/sealant. Unlike the maintenance soaps, these are in no particular order.

Carpro Lift – This is a high pH soap designed for decontamination. Brilliant foam quality and strong cleaning power. It does lack some of Reset’s slickness and trades a sweet scent for a stronger “chemical” smell. Use this only occasionally to deep clean a ceramic coating, when preparing for a paint correction or when prior to applying a new wax/sealant.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – Unscented
PH Level – 12+
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 10/10

image

Carpro Descale – This soap swings the other way compared to Lift, being an acidic product for decontamination washes. The acidic nature can help remove hard water spots. Descale is another product that can be used to revive an older ceramic coating. Again, a product for occasional use, I like to use this as a strip wash. Cherry scented and offering similar lubricity to Lift.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – Cherry
PH Level – Not Specified, my testing showed about 3.7
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 10/10

image

Obsessed Garage Decontamination Soap – This is an interesting soap that will soon be freely available in Australia. It’s a higher pH alkaline soap that offers higher lubricity than the other two, offers brilliant foaming and strong cleaning ability. It has a solvent base for that added ability.

Lubrication – 10/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – Mild Citrus
PH Level – 10.0
Consistency - Medium
Overall Rating – 9/10

image

The following products trace a line to the point where I have arrived at my top 6 soaps. Some are good, but not great products. Some are absolute dogs. This has been a near 20 year journey, the thrill of the chase being the motivation to keep looking, keep trying.

These are a few from my earlier days detailing -

Meguiar’s Gold Class – Available everywhere, this is a decent soap that foams up well and provides plenty of suds. This soap will leave a gloss enhancer behind, best avoided on ceramic coated cars. Being so thick and gloopy, Gold Class is harder to measure out than more runny soaps.

Lubrication – 7/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Musky
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 6/10

Meguiar’s NXT – Again, available everywhere with great suds. With “synthetic lubricating oils”, NXT will also leave something behind. It can also soften hard water, meaning its safer to use in the sun. This is also a thicker soap, making it harder to measure.

Lubrication – 7/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Fruity
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 6/10

Meguiar’s Ultimate Wash & Wax – Another thick, gloopy soap from Meguiar’s that will also leave behind a small amount of protection. I stopped using this due to poor cleaning ability and the fact it was leaving behind a residue on glass.

Lubrication – 7/10
Cleaning Ability 5/10
Scent – Bubble gum
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 4/10

Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner – The single worst soap I have ever used, and one of the worst detailing products I have had the displeasure of spending money on. No suds, no lubrication, no cleaning ability. This stuff is utter garbage, run don’t walk from this pathetic product.

Lubrication – 2/10
Cleaning Ability 1/10
Scent – Can’t remember LOL
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 1/10

Bowden’s Snow Job – I started using this when foam cannons really took off. Initially, I liked how well it foamed. As time went on, I realised this soap lacks meaningful cleaning ability. It’s thicker consistency also made it harder to pour into the foam cannon. There are far better soaps than this, if you don’t want to purchase from a specialist supplier, then look towards Gold Class or Bathe instead.

Lubrication – 6/10
Cleaning Ability 1/10
Scent – Can’t remember LOL
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 2/10

From this point on, I’m commenting from more resent experience.

NV Snow Plus – This soap is a higher pH / alkaline soap designed for more cleaning ability. It lacks the pleasant scent of regular snow and is a clear liquid rather than coloured blue. You would use this soap on dirtier vehicles or when doing a decontamination/strip wash, Snow Plus having the ability to remove or seriously degrade a wax/sealant. A brilliant choice and a staple of my cabinet for a number of years now.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 9/10
Scent – Un-scented
PH Level – 8.1 (Note – I have seen numbers as high as 12.1)
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 9/10

image

Adam’s Car Shampoo – This is a pH neutral soap offering superb foaming ability, decent slickness and a pleasing blueberry scent. This is also a good option for washing in full sun. It’s only drawback is a too thick consistency that makes pouring more difficult. It also a touch expensive for what it is. A decent soap, just not great.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Blueberry
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 7/10

image

Adam’s Mega Foam – This is like Adam’s Car Shampoo, just on steroids. It foams better while maintaining a neutral pH, it also remedies the too thick consistency by being thinner and easier to measure out. Nice fruity scent as well. The only drawback is the price, being just too expensive for what it is. I actually like this product, I would certainly order it again………when on sale.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – “Fruity”
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 7/10

image

Gyeon Bathe – Gyeon offer a number of soaps, I think this is the one to go for. This is a maintenance soap that offers a runny consistency for easy pouring, a lovely scent and stunning foam quality. A very, very good soap, probably the best soap you can buy at a regular automotive store (Repco).

Lubrication – 9/10
Cleaning Ability 8/10
Scent – “Pleasant”
PH Level – 6.0
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 8/10

image

Koch Chemie AS – This is an odd product that I don’t really see the point in. It doesn’t foam, it’s lemon scent is weak, and it isn’t all that good at cleaning despite a higher pH of 9.0. While it’s considerably cheaper than GSF, that is not enough incentive to give this a try. Avoid.

Lubrication – 5/10
Cleaning Ability 5/10
Scent – Lemon
PH Level – 9.0
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 2/10

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Optimum Car Wash Shampoo – If you like a thinner foam consistency, this is a great option. Medium thickness in terms of consistency, has a pleasant smell and offers decent cleaning ability. Another very good soap.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 8/10
Scent – Blueberry
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Medium
Overall Rating – 8/10

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P&S Pearl – I don’t like this soap. Pearl is said to foam very well, but I just couldn’t get the thick foam quality I normally prefer. The lemon scent is faint, the cleaning ability average and it’s priced fairly. I have seen some suggestion that Pearl foams better when mixed with de-ionised water, but that is unrealistic for most. I’m currently using this soap to clean my wheely bins, that says it all.

Lubrication – 7/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent –Lemon
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 2/10

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Stjarnagloss Sno – This is one of a couple soaps offered by this brand. Sno was designed as a pre-wash soak, in which case it foams like a champion. As a bucket soap, it lacks lubrication and feels quite odd under a wash mitt. It also stained my foam cannon pickup tube blue. Not a soap I will be re-ordering.

Lubrication – 3/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Coconut
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thin
Overall Rating – 5/10

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That's a lot of soaps! And I'm sure I will try a lot more! As mentioned, choosing any of the top 6 soaps will serve you well.

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Three more soaps I have used over the last couple of months and can now rate –

Adam’s Ultra Foam – like the two other Adam’s soaps I have used, this a pH neutral maintenance product. I like how these soaps foam and then rinse away nice and clean, Ultra Foam is no different. The wild berry fragrance is fun too. All three of these Adam’s soaps are really good options.

Lubrication – 7/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent –Berries
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency - Thick
Overall Rating – 7/10



Gtechniq G-Wash – Like Gyeon and Carpro, Gtechniq make a number soaps, G-Wash being their pH neutral maintenance soap. I have only used this soap once, that is the telling factor here. In no way is this a bad soap, it’s just not a great soap. The foaming is ok, the lubrication is ok, the cleaning is ok. The scent is not unlike GSF, however is just doesn’t reach the heights of what it should for a quality brand like Gtechniq.

Lubrication – 5/10
Cleaning Ability 5/10
Scent – Cherry
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency – Thin-medium
Overall Rating – 5/10



Shine Supply Shift – I bought this soap as an afterthought and ended up being pleasantly surprised. I shouldn’t like this soap, it has slightly thicker consistency and a thinner foam quality than I like. But………I really enjoy using this product. The foam, despite being thin, clings to the paint for a long working time and the coconut lime scent is delightful. It’s wont clean as well as Reset or NV Snow, nor is it as slick as GSF, but as a workhorse soap, it’s a pleasure to use. I like it so much I have gone and bought a gallon of the stuff.

Lubrication – 8/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Coconut-Lime
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency – Slightly thick
Overall Rating – 8.5/10

Another couple of soaps to add to the list that have been put to the DFB judging panel, consisting of me, myself and I.

Auto Finesse Lather – I’m not going to mince words here, I hate this soap!

Some of this dislike will come down to my usage patterns though. During my maintenance wash process, I rinse the car, foam it down and then do the contact wash with the foam still on the paint. I also have the same soap in my wash bucket too.

Auto Finesse offer two maintenance soaps, Avalanche and the pH neutral Lather. Avalanche is geared towards pre-wash foaming and Lather is designed for bucket washing. In my opinion, I see no reason for using two different soaps during a regular maintenance wash. Lather is said to be “super foamy”, which led me to giving it a try. Except, I does not foam, at least not in a effective manner. The consistency is super runny and unlike other soaps that offer a thinner film, Shine Supply Shift for example, it doesn’t cling to the paint. The Scent had a hint of citrus, the cleaning ability ok and lubrication is fair. Overall, not a soap I will be re-ordering.

Lubrication – 6/10
Cleaning Ability 7/10
Scent – Tangerine / Citrus
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency – Runny
Overall Rating – 1/10





Angelwax Fast Foam – A pH neutral maintenance soap designed primarily as a pre-soak. This is another soap I took a punt on, and I’m glad I did. The foam quality is exceptional, dwell time is fantastic with Angelwax saying the longer it stays on the paint, the more it will break down contaminants. It may not be Reset or GSF slick, but it’s not far behind. The only thing I would change about this soap would be to add a scent, Fast Foam is essentially fragrance free. A brilliant soap and certainly gets a pass from me!

Lubrication – 8.5/10
Cleaning Ability 10/10
Scent – None
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency – Runny
Overall Rating – 8.5/10





Bowden’s Own Snow Job – The original formulation of Snow Job was junk! Sure, it foamed well but it offered little to no cleaning ability. The new version is said to be a all-new formulation, addressing a few key problems with the original, including cleaning ability and the consistency of the liquid. Snow Job v2 is much runnier, making it easier to measure out. Like the original, Snow Job foams like a champ, producing thick and clingy foam. It also cleans better than the original, although still not to the level of the leaders. I also don’t really like the scent, almost like a commercial men’s room cleaner. Overall, an improvement on the original but not a leading contender.

Lubrication – 6/10
Cleaning Ability 6/10
Scent – Said to be “refreshing”
PH Level – 7.5
Consistency – Runny
Overall Rating – 6/10

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

It looks and sounds a little finicky, but should be fine. You could also follow their reccomendation of diluting it at 1:1 -

https://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-6.html

"Please note: Using the product in its original concentration will provide the best results. However, some people may find it difficult to evenly spray Z-6™ in its extremely high concentration. To make Z-6™ Ultra Clean more user-friendly, you may dilute the product with distilled water up to a ratio of 1 to 1 to help you get better results. Test by diluting with small proportions until you find what works best for you. Again, for optimal results, it is best not to dilute Z-6™ Ultra Clean."

If you do end up ordering a Gauntlet, look into adding something like P&S Paint Gloss, which I find very, very easy to use. Paint Gloss is a typical quick detailer and offers little to no protection, just gloss. P&S Bead Maker adds some short-term protection along with extreme gloss and slickness and is generally easy to use and does not require dilution.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...992edbf8&_ss=r

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https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...0a7c8497&_ss=r

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I haven't asked, but what are you using for your base layer protection?

Soz, DFB, been slightly distracted over the last few days and forgot to get back to you on this.

To be honest, I've never had a problem using the z-6; I've never found it finicky to use. Was put on to the Zaino range a few years back by Waxit and have continued to use some of it since. It might be time to look at using other products once the current stock runs out.

OK, on the base layer protection, the short answer is nothing and /or opticoat. There's a much longer answer that I'll need to address shortly, but, because of the opticoat, I haven't used anything in that space since having it done.

[T3rminator]

Well, I must say I'm pretty impressed with the Gyeon Wet Coat. I was a bit sceptical at first with the whole spray and rinse thing. Applied it on Wednesday, been driving it heaps, took the car 150kms out of Melb this weekend, usually it'd be covered in dust, but nope....its still like I had just washed it. The surface is silky smooth.

Dad was also impressed....so he decided to use it on his pick up. And he had only just washed mum's car yesterday, but washed it again today just so he could apply it. I guess that bottle isn't going to last too long.

The ONLY down side I can see at this stage, is that it does create some water spots. But you need to be standing right next to the panel, and stare at it for a few seconds, to pick it up.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0

Soz, DFB, been slightly distracted over the last few days and forgot to get back to you on this.

To be honest, I've never had a problem using the z-6; I've never found it finicky to use. Was put on to the Zaino range a few years back by Waxit and have continued to use some of it since. It might be time to look at using other products once the current stock runs out.

OK, on the base layer protection, the short answer is nothing and /or opticoat. There's a much longer answer that I'll need to address shortly, but, because of the opticoat, I haven't used anything in that space since having it done.

I have played around with Zaino as well and like the products. At one point they were a leading brand at Waxit, however they have pivoted towards other brands now. I you enjoy using them, then keep doing so.

I'm assuming you are thinking the Opticoat has started to lose its effect?

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by T3rminator

Well, I must say I'm pretty impressed with the Gyeon Wet Coat. I was a bit sceptical at first with the whole spray and rinse thing. Applied it on Wednesday, been driving it heaps, took the car 150kms out of Melb this weekend, usually it'd be covered in dust, but nope....its still like I had just washed it. The surface is silky smooth.

Dad was also impressed....so he decided to use it on his pick up. And he had only just washed mum's car yesterday, but washed it again today just so he could apply it. I guess that bottle isn't going to last too long.

The ONLY down side I can see at this stage, is that it does create some water spots. But you need to be standing right next to the panel, and stare at it for a few seconds, to pick it up.

Funny, i gave it a go also. I initially bought it for the missus car but i havnt got to that yet.
Washed the dust off my ute so thought id spray some on the wheels. Seemed to work pretty well (already coated though) my garage queen is hardly a good test bed for new stuff though
Ease of application is a plus.
Did you dry the car after application/was the car warm? I didnt have any issues with spotting.

[T3rminator]

Originally Posted by DJM83

Funny, i gave it a go also. I initially bought it for the missus car but i havnt got to that yet.

Washed the dust off my ute so thought id spray some on the wheels. Seemed to work pretty well (already coated though) my garage queen is hardly a good test bed for new stuff though

Ease of application is a plus.

Did you dry the car after application/was the car warm? I didnt have any issues with spotting.

I gave the car a 3 minute wipe down with the green sucker after washing. I was in a rush to head off so I only did the roof, bonnet and a really quick swipe of the side and boot areas. Funny thing is, the boot has no spotting, just a couple of the side areas and slightly on the roof. Not a big deal.

Was done out of the sun and the car had been parked for a couple of hours.

[CyberWasp]

I have a few things to add to SiO2 Coatings as that is all I use on my cars and have been using them for a few years now.

I have not used Wet Coat but from what I have seen is probably the best of all of them on the market now. I have been using CarPro Hydro Lite and 303 Touchless Sealant.

As DFB FGXR6 has said less is more. It is surprising how little you really need to use.
I have had many friends and colleagues at work try it and when asked, they use half the bottle on the initial application. Noooooooo.

Also shake the hell out of the thing before use, as I found sediment of unused product at the bottom of the container. I was initially just giving them a 1 or 2 shake.

My 1st tip is to find a smaller spray bottle that has an excellent misting spray.
The objective is to use less by misting the spray over a larger area.
Once set right is it just one mist in the middle of the door for example.
Often the sprayer they are supplied with can be improved on a lot.

2nd Tip - Once you have such a bottle I actually dilute the Hydro Lite down even further and use it as a maintenance topper. You don't need much product.

3rd Tip - Maybe I have smelt too many chemicals, but if you look closely, like really closely. When you begin to hose the product off, you will see the reaction taking place in the form of micro bubbles in the water as you sheet it across the panel, until they disappear. This is in the space of a second so it is quick.
This is where the water pattern / direction you are using will help to spread it better by seeing this, and if you are leaving product on the car which will spot.

Once you understand all this and have your routine sorted, I holder a sprayer in the left hand and hose in the right and apply the topper to the car after a wash. There is no faster way to coat your car.

[T3rminator]

Originally Posted by CyberWasp

My 1st tip is to find a smaller spray bottle that has an excellent misting spray.
The objective is to use less by misting the spray over a larger area.
Once set right is it just one mist in the middle of the door for example.
Often the sprayer they are supplied with can be improved on a lot.

.

I found the original bottle excellent with mist. In fact, I hardly saw any liquid coming out, just mist, so its hard not to give it a couple more squeeze "just to best sure" . And a small breeze sends the mist elsewhere. (I've seen a youtube review where the spray bottle came out as a jet, must have been a defect)

I'll keep that in mind next time. The car is so smooooooth all over, so I'm pretty confident it had the right coverage....maybe a bit too much in some areas.

Oh, and one of the biggest improvement I noticed straight away on the road was how crystal clear the side mirrors were....and still are.

[DFB FGXR6]

Like many other detailing categories, I seem to have accumulated a selection of different glass cleaners over the last few years. Most automotive glass cleaners are alcohol based, being safer on interior plastic surfaces and window tinting. For that reason, it’s important to not use ammonia formulations or you risk damaging your window tinting and staining plastic trim. Most Windex products fall into that category. For the most part, all glass cleaners are much of a muchness, with a few minor deviations to differentiate them from each other.





Here are the products I have used in the past and the ones I grab the most, all being alcohol-based formula’s unless otherwise stated and all delivering streak free performance when used correctly.

Gyeon Q2M Glass – This is the first “premium” glass cleaner I bought and one that I highly rate. I really like the Gyeon bottles, very comfortable to hold and spray, hooking nicely to my pocket while I’m wiping. The scent of Q2M Glass it’s high point, not having that “heady” aroma alcohol products tend to possess. It’s also super slick to wipe. Probably my favourite glass cleaner and the one I like to grab the most often.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Pleasantly sweet
Bottle Sizes – 500ml or 4 lt
Rating – 10/10



Stoner’s Invisible Glass – This is one of the best glass cleaners you can buy, one of the cheapest too. This product doesn’t come in a fancy bottle or have an alluring scent, it just works! Invisible Glass is readily available and is a true workhorse product. Highly recommended.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 643ml, 945ml and 5 or 55 gallon (USA)
Rating – 10/10



P&S True Vue – This glass cleaner comes in both ready-to-use and concentrate forms. The concentrate form is an extremely economical solution and is able to be adjusted for winter and summer usage. I tend to use this not just for detailing, but also for general around the house cleaning too. No scent with this product and like Invisible Glass, a great workhorse.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 473ml RTU or 1 gallon concentrate.
Rating – 10/10



Carpro Clarify – The main drawcard I see with this product is the pleasing banana scent, desirable if you find other glass cleaners “heady”. It also has a nicely slick feel to it. Certainly a nice product, one I have just because I like the smell.
Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Banana
Bottle Sizes – 500ml and 1 lt
Rating – 7.5/10



Carpro Eraser – While this products main role is as a panel prep spray, it can also be used quite successfully as a glass cleaner. Which means more chances to enjoy the delightful scent this product is known for. You could also say the same for Gyeon Prep, it too makes a brilliant glass cleaner.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Hard to define, but very pleasant
Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt
Rating – 7.5/10



NV Clarity – This is another panel prep spray that is also used for glass cleaning. As a prep spray, I really don’t like Clarify as its high IPA content is extremely grabby. On glass though, it’s actually very good. No scent here, very much an IPA type smell to it.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented, slightly pungent
Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt
Rating – 8/10



Koch Chemie Speed Glass – Koch offer a few different glass cleaners, this being the RTU version. Another high quality glass cleaner, one that I found easy to use and offers good slickness. This is a scented product, one that is not easy to place, Koch Chemie describing it as “fresh fragrance” and is similar to their other interior products.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – “Fresh”
Bottle Sizes – 750ml RTU
Rating – 8/10



Angelwax Vision – This is a product I call a “sledgehammer for glass”. Vision is alcohol based but does contain ammonia, so it’s best used with caution. It also has an extremely pungent aroma to it, so be careful using it in confined spaces. And certainly don’t give the bottle a whiff or you will knock yourself out! Vision though has more grunt to clean neglected glass, especially so on windscreens. Never spray this directly onto glass, always into a towel. Vision is said to be tint safe despite the ammonia content, but I would only use it as needed rather than a regular maintenance product.

Tint Safe – Yes, but use with caution
Scent – Unscented but extremely pungent
Bottle Sizes – 500ml
Rating – 9/10



Autoglym Fast Glass – This was my main glass cleaner for a very long time, ultimately replaced by Stoners Invisible Glass and Gyeon Q2M Glass. Fast Glass is very easy to use and available in most automotive stores (Australia at least). Autoglym also say it can be used as a spot cleaner on bodywork.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Unscented
Bottle Sizes – 500ml
Rating – 7/10



Optimum No Rinse – ONR is primarily used for rinse-less and waterless washing, but I do know people use this for glass too. I personally have not, but it can deliver streak free results while also being useful for other tasks as well, adding to it’s versatility.

Tint Safe – Yes
Scent – Berry
Bottle Sizes – 236ml, 946ml or 1 gallon concentrates
Rating – Un tested by me



Next, glass sealants.