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#2251 | ||
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Bugger, if I'd known about the virtues of Wet Coat when I popped in to pick these up on the weekend, I would have grabbed some.
![]() ![]() Oh, and a question or two re Bathe. In the on-line images, the Bathe product is a blue colour, but the bottle I got is a clear liquid. Has there been a product change? A formula change? And what ratio should I be using it as a foam? The website only indicates ratios for bucket washing.
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor Last edited by FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0; 17-01-2023 at 02:59 PM. |
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#2252 | |||
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Quote:
![]() ![]() They were the most difficult wheel I have ever had to wash, mainly because at the time I just didn't know what I was doing. Getting into the very corers of those spokes was extremely difficult. I ended up replacing those wheels with the classic Tickford 5 spokes, a breeze to clean and that machined face on the spokes shimmered in motion. ![]() ![]() That car was a peach and I still miss it. I have a feeling the first owner towed with it for the first 54,000 km, the big tow bar was the first clue, the scraped mud flaps the second clue, the occasional harsh shift down to second the third. I had to replace a leaking power steering rack at about 65,000 km, the front ball joints were clunky and addressed at the dealer. Other than that, it was the perfect first car, very unassuming in old man burgundy............she could pull a single pegger burnout like a champion too! ![]()
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#2253 | |||
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Gyeon recommend Bathe is diluted at 500:1, which would be about 20ml per 10lt bucket. For a foam cannon, I use about 90ml per 910ml of water, so 10:1. Being so concentrated, you could back that down to 40-50ml if you want. https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/bathe-2/ This website makes dilution calculations a breeze - https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio
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#2254 | ||
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Right, Bowden's Snow Job v2...................
![]() As mentioned in earlier posts, the original formulation of Snow Job was lacking in cleaning power and too thick for easy measuring. Bowden's claim to have completely reformulated the soap to address those shortcomings. Like the original, Snow Job foam like a champion with thick, clingy foam. ![]() ![]() ![]() But the elephant in the room is, does the new Snow Job actually clean? Um, well, I think so. There were a couple of spots it didn't touch that needed removal after the wash, certainly better the v1 but probably not as good as Reset, Snow, GSF............... Slickness was medium level and the scent somewhat odd, like a commercial cleaning solution used to clean primary schools. One other slight drawback was some minor reactivation during the rinse process. On the whole, it's much improved but still lacking compared to the benchmarks that are either less money or only slightly more. If you want a soap that's readily available, Gyeon Bathe from Repco smashes Snow Job out of the park.
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#2255 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
Picked up some this arvo.
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#2256 | ||||
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Quote:
Quote:
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2257 | ||
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A couple of tips regarding Gyeon Wet Coat and other water activated spray sealants -
![]() ![]() - The product will last longer when the surface to be treated is well cleaned. - Try not overapply, a little goes a long way. - Work quickly in manageable sections. For example, one wheel or panel at a time. Spray and then rinse immediately. - Leaving the product too long before rinsing or if applied in hot direct sun can lead to spotting issues. - On the bodywork, start from the top and work your way down. Apply to the roof, then the bonnet and boot followed by the adjacent quarter panels. Then do the doors and bumpers. Doing this way helps reduce the amount of rinsing needed to clear the residue from the paint. - I tend to avoid directly spraying the product on glass, it can cause spotting on this surface. - You can also use these products to coat exhaust tips and wheel arch liners, even really intricate front grills that would otherwise require hours of attention. ![]()
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#2258 | |||
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This may be a silly question, but where in the cleaning/detailing process do you use Wet Coat? After you've cleaned the car but before you dry it off? Or do you dry it off, apply Wet Coat, rinse and then have to dry it all off again? For me, that's the hardest part about most of the detailing products, is trying to work where to slot everything in the process to minimise the amount of effort, and repetition, required to achieve a good outcome.
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2259 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
Instructions say use only on a wet/cool car. So id imagine finish washing spray it on, hose off then dry. https://gyeonquartz.com.au/product/wetcoat/
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#2260 | |||
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Quote:
For drying, I use the sheeting method first, then follow that up with some drying towels: I have the tempest and also a Bowden's BGS
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2261 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
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Quote:
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...r-drying-towel
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#2262 | |||
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Quote:
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2263 | ||
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When your tempest dies, get a gauntlet. I changed from tempest to gauntlet, much better towel
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#2264 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
They are amazing. Ive got 2 of these Supercells They work a treat!
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#2265 | |||
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Quote:
1 - Wash the car as normal (wheels & body) 2 - While the car is still wet, apply the product to the area to be treated, then rinse off immediately. Make sure to rinse adjacent areas as you go to remove all residue. 3 - Dry the vehicle. At this point, I want to point out that I really only apply Wet Coat to the bodywork if the car has no or failing protection, customer cars in other words. On my personal cars, Wet Coat is only used to treat wheels and exhausts. For paintwork, I have a solid base layer of protection that is topped during the drying process, more on that in a second. You drying process is sound, although I would add in a drying aid to your process to provide lubrication and add additional gloss, all in one step. Drying Aid's are typically quick detailers or spray sealants, this is where the topping of your base layer protection happens, depending on the product. Suitable products include the huge variety of quick detailers like Boss Gloss, Meguiar's Last Touch and P&S Paint Gloss (my favorite) through to spray sealants like NV Boost v2, Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer or P&S Bead Maker. I really like Bead Maker as it seems to be compatible with the widest variety of paint protections. Your process here would be - 1 - Wash the vehicle. 2 - Use a blower or the sheeting technique to remove the bulk of the water from the car. 3 - Prime your towel with some product, 3 to 4 sprays. 4 - Work section by section, apply a few sprays per panel, wipe with your towel. I can do this process with one medium Gauntlet Towel or Tempest Jr. Depending on the level of water still left on the car, you may need additional towels. Adding the drying aid to the process takes a clean car and transforms it to the next level of "clean".
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#2266 | |||
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This is where I progressed from, somewhat mirroring the industry itself. - Don't judge me, I didn't know any better, but I used Meguiar's Soft Buff Chamois for a long time. ![]() - When I got my XR6 in 2008, I transitioned to large waffle weave towels from Waxit. These served me for a long, long time. Very durable and absorbent. Put it this way, I only just recently decommissioned these. ![]() - I then went into the plush drying towels like the Tempest from Waxit and the Big Green Stucker from Bowden's. These felt great across the paint and were extremely absorbent. ![]() - This is where technology started to change and twist-loop towels became a thing, my first try of something like this was the Waxit Supercell. The big benefit of twist-loop towels is that they are super absorbent, surprisingly so when you look at the thickness of these sort of towels. However, I found them very grabby on the paint, even when using a drying aid. ![]() - My next try of a twist-loop was the FTW's from The Rag Company. These were originally designed for glass to prevent streaking, but they became a popular drying towel as well. These still have a slight amount of gabbiness but are so good that I have nine of them in the cabinet. Due to their size, you will need more of them. Also available in orange or blue if you don't fancy pink. ![]() ![]() - The ultimate towel as it stands is the hybrid twist-loop towels like the previously mentioned TRC Gauntlets. These combine the attributes of a twist-loop and blend them with plush microfiber towels like the Tempest. So, they are super absorbent while being smoother to use on the paint. I like the medium size for drying the body and small size for wheels. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Along with ceramic coatings, I think towels have been where the industry has improved the most over the last 20 years.
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#2267 | ||
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Waxit have Australia Day Specials running at the moment, in addition to a free Boss Wash Mitt for sales over $50 until Friday.
https://www.waxit.com.au/ https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...OZgU%3D.MeSg3g In addition to new BOGO specials - https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...uy-one-get-one
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#2268 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
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Quote:
I'm interested in your step 4. Just literally spray and wipe. How critical is step 2 when using this method. I don't yet have a blower and I use a pressure washer... Does turning it off just run water through it at mains pressure? I've never tried.
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#2269 | |||
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Step 2 or "water sheeting" is the use of an open stream of water to drive the surface water off the panel. It's not something I do as I use a blower, but can be quite effective, especially on ceramic coated vehicles.
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#2270 | ||||||
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Quote:
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I don't have any of the highlighted products, but I do have some Zaino Z-6 Gloss Enhancer spray. I've looked on their website and I can't see anything that indicates that it can be used as a drying aid. Would it be suitable or not?
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2271 | |||
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https://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-6.html "Please note: Using the product in its original concentration will provide the best results. However, some people may find it difficult to evenly spray Z-6™ in its extremely high concentration. To make Z-6™ Ultra Clean more user-friendly, you may dilute the product with distilled water up to a ratio of 1 to 1 to help you get better results. Test by diluting with small proportions until you find what works best for you. Again, for optimal results, it is best not to dilute Z-6™ Ultra Clean." If you do end up ordering a Gauntlet, look into adding something like P&S Paint Gloss, which I find very, very easy to use. Paint Gloss is a typical quick detailer and offers little to no protection, just gloss. P&S Bead Maker adds some short-term protection along with extreme gloss and slickness and is generally easy to use and does not require dilution. https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...992edbf8&_ss=r ![]() https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...0a7c8497&_ss=r ![]() I haven't asked, but what are you using for your base layer protection?
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#2272 | |||
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Quote:
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![]() Auto Finesse Lather – I’m not going to mince words here, I hate this soap! Some of this dislike will come down to my usage patterns though. During my maintenance wash process, I rinse the car, foam it down and then do the contact wash with the foam still on the paint. I also have the same soap in my wash bucket too. Auto Finesse offer two maintenance soaps, Avalanche and the pH neutral Lather. Avalanche is geared towards pre-wash foaming and Lather is designed for bucket washing. In my opinion, I see no reason for using two different soaps during a regular maintenance wash. Lather is said to be “super foamy”, which led me to giving it a try. Except, I does not foam, at least not in a effective manner. The consistency is super runny and unlike other soaps that offer a thinner film, Shine Supply Shift for example, it doesn’t cling to the paint. The Scent had a hint of citrus, the cleaning ability ok and lubrication is fair. Overall, not a soap I will be re-ordering. Lubrication – 6/10 Cleaning Ability 7/10 Scent – Tangerine / Citrus PH Level – 7.5 Consistency – Runny Overall Rating – 1/10 ![]() ![]() Angelwax Fast Foam – A pH neutral maintenance soap designed primarily as a pre-soak. This is another soap I took a punt on, and I’m glad I did. The foam quality is exceptional, dwell time is fantastic with Angelwax saying the longer it stays on the paint, the more it will break down contaminants. It may not be Reset or GSF slick, but it’s not far behind. The only thing I would change about this soap would be to add a scent, Fast Foam is essentially fragrance free. A brilliant soap and certainly gets a pass from me! Lubrication – 8.5/10 Cleaning Ability 10/10 Scent – None PH Level – 7.5 Consistency – Runny Overall Rating – 8.5/10 ![]() ![]() Bowden’s Own Snow Job – The original formulation of Snow Job was junk! Sure, it foamed well but it offered little to no cleaning ability. The new version is said to be a all-new formulation, addressing a few key problems with the original, including cleaning ability and the consistency of the liquid. Snow Job v2 is much runnier, making it easier to measure out. Like the original, Snow Job foams like a champ, producing thick and clingy foam. It also cleans better than the original, although still not to the level of the leaders. I also don’t really like the scent, almost like a commercial men’s room cleaner. Overall, an improvement on the original but not a leading contender. Lubrication – 6/10 Cleaning Ability 6/10 Scent – Said to be “refreshing” PH Level – 7.5 Consistency – Runny Overall Rating – 6/10 ![]() ![]()
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#2273 | |||
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Quote:
![]() To be honest, I've never had a problem using the z-6; I've never found it finicky to use. Was put on to the Zaino range a few years back by Waxit and have continued to use some of it since. It might be time to look at using other products once the current stock runs out. OK, on the base layer protection, the short answer is nothing and /or opticoat. There's a much longer answer that I'll need to address shortly, but, because of the opticoat, I haven't used anything in that space since having it done.
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Labels are for jars, not for people. Life is a journey, not a destination. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Daily: 2013 FGII EcoLPi in Winter White Play: 2015 FG X XR8 in Emperor Show' N Shine thread Gone, but not forgotten: 2015 SZII petrol Titanium Territory in Emperor |
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#2274 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne
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Well, I must say I'm pretty impressed with the Gyeon Wet Coat. I was a bit sceptical at first with the whole spray and rinse thing. Applied it on Wednesday, been driving it heaps, took the car 150kms out of Melb this weekend, usually it'd be covered in dust, but nope....its still like I had just washed it. The surface is silky smooth.
Dad was also impressed....so he decided to use it on his pick up. And he had only just washed mum's car yesterday, but washed it again today just so he could apply it. ![]() The ONLY down side I can see at this stage, is that it does create some water spots. But you need to be standing right next to the panel, and stare at it for a few seconds, to pick it up.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#2275 | |||
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Quote:
I'm assuming you are thinking the Opticoat has started to lose its effect?
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#2276 | |||
Barra Turbo > V8
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Quote:
Washed the dust off my ute so thought id spray some on the wheels. Seemed to work pretty well (already coated though) my garage queen is hardly a good test bed for new stuff though ![]() Ease of application is a plus. Did you dry the car after application/was the car warm? I didnt have any issues with spotting.
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#2277 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Quote:
Was done out of the sun and the car had been parked for a couple of hours.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#2278 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
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I have a few things to add to SiO2 Coatings as that is all I use on my cars and have been using them for a few years now.
I have not used Wet Coat but from what I have seen is probably the best of all of them on the market now. I have been using CarPro Hydro Lite and 303 Touchless Sealant. As DFB FGXR6 has said less is more. It is surprising how little you really need to use. I have had many friends and colleagues at work try it and when asked, they use half the bottle on the initial application. Noooooooo. Also shake the hell out of the thing before use, as I found sediment of unused product at the bottom of the container. I was initially just giving them a 1 or 2 shake. My 1st tip is to find a smaller spray bottle that has an excellent misting spray. The objective is to use less by misting the spray over a larger area. Once set right is it just one mist in the middle of the door for example. Often the sprayer they are supplied with can be improved on a lot. 2nd Tip - Once you have such a bottle I actually dilute the Hydro Lite down even further and use it as a maintenance topper. You don't need much product. 3rd Tip - Maybe I have smelt too many chemicals, but if you look closely, like really closely. When you begin to hose the product off, you will see the reaction taking place in the form of micro bubbles in the water as you sheet it across the panel, until they disappear. This is in the space of a second so it is quick. This is where the water pattern / direction you are using will help to spread it better by seeing this, and if you are leaving product on the car which will spot. Once you understand all this and have your routine sorted, I holder a sprayer in the left hand and hose in the right and apply the topper to the car after a wash. There is no faster way to coat your car.
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#2279 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Quote:
![]() I'll keep that in mind next time. The car is so smooooooth all over, so I'm pretty confident it had the right coverage....maybe a bit too much in some areas. Oh, and one of the biggest improvement I noticed straight away on the road was how crystal clear the side mirrors were....and still are.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#2280 | ||
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Like many other detailing categories, I seem to have accumulated a selection of different glass cleaners over the last few years. Most automotive glass cleaners are alcohol based, being safer on interior plastic surfaces and window tinting. For that reason, it’s important to not use ammonia formulations or you risk damaging your window tinting and staining plastic trim. Most Windex products fall into that category. For the most part, all glass cleaners are much of a muchness, with a few minor deviations to differentiate them from each other.
![]() ![]() Here are the products I have used in the past and the ones I grab the most, all being alcohol-based formula’s unless otherwise stated and all delivering streak free performance when used correctly. Gyeon Q2M Glass – This is the first “premium” glass cleaner I bought and one that I highly rate. I really like the Gyeon bottles, very comfortable to hold and spray, hooking nicely to my pocket while I’m wiping. The scent of Q2M Glass it’s high point, not having that “heady” aroma alcohol products tend to possess. It’s also super slick to wipe. Probably my favourite glass cleaner and the one I like to grab the most often. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Pleasantly sweet Bottle Sizes – 500ml or 4 lt Rating – 10/10 ![]() Stoner’s Invisible Glass – This is one of the best glass cleaners you can buy, one of the cheapest too. This product doesn’t come in a fancy bottle or have an alluring scent, it just works! Invisible Glass is readily available and is a true workhorse product. Highly recommended. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Unscented Bottle Sizes – 643ml, 945ml and 5 or 55 gallon (USA) Rating – 10/10 ![]() P&S True Vue – This glass cleaner comes in both ready-to-use and concentrate forms. The concentrate form is an extremely economical solution and is able to be adjusted for winter and summer usage. I tend to use this not just for detailing, but also for general around the house cleaning too. No scent with this product and like Invisible Glass, a great workhorse. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Unscented Bottle Sizes – 473ml RTU or 1 gallon concentrate. Rating – 10/10 ![]() Carpro Clarify – The main drawcard I see with this product is the pleasing banana scent, desirable if you find other glass cleaners “heady”. It also has a nicely slick feel to it. Certainly a nice product, one I have just because I like the smell. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Banana Bottle Sizes – 500ml and 1 lt Rating – 7.5/10 ![]() Carpro Eraser – While this products main role is as a panel prep spray, it can also be used quite successfully as a glass cleaner. Which means more chances to enjoy the delightful scent this product is known for. You could also say the same for Gyeon Prep, it too makes a brilliant glass cleaner. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Hard to define, but very pleasant Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt Rating – 7.5/10 ![]() NV Clarity – This is another panel prep spray that is also used for glass cleaning. As a prep spray, I really don’t like Clarify as its high IPA content is extremely grabby. On glass though, it’s actually very good. No scent here, very much an IPA type smell to it. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Unscented, slightly pungent Bottle Sizes – 500ml, 1 lt or 4 lt Rating – 8/10 ![]() Koch Chemie Speed Glass – Koch offer a few different glass cleaners, this being the RTU version. Another high quality glass cleaner, one that I found easy to use and offers good slickness. This is a scented product, one that is not easy to place, Koch Chemie describing it as “fresh fragrance” and is similar to their other interior products. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – “Fresh” Bottle Sizes – 750ml RTU Rating – 8/10 ![]() Angelwax Vision – This is a product I call a “sledgehammer for glass”. Vision is alcohol based but does contain ammonia, so it’s best used with caution. It also has an extremely pungent aroma to it, so be careful using it in confined spaces. And certainly don’t give the bottle a whiff or you will knock yourself out! Vision though has more grunt to clean neglected glass, especially so on windscreens. Never spray this directly onto glass, always into a towel. Vision is said to be tint safe despite the ammonia content, but I would only use it as needed rather than a regular maintenance product. Tint Safe – Yes, but use with caution Scent – Unscented but extremely pungent Bottle Sizes – 500ml Rating – 9/10 ![]() Autoglym Fast Glass – This was my main glass cleaner for a very long time, ultimately replaced by Stoners Invisible Glass and Gyeon Q2M Glass. Fast Glass is very easy to use and available in most automotive stores (Australia at least). Autoglym also say it can be used as a spot cleaner on bodywork. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Unscented Bottle Sizes – 500ml Rating – 7/10 ![]() Optimum No Rinse – ONR is primarily used for rinse-less and waterless washing, but I do know people use this for glass too. I personally have not, but it can deliver streak free results while also being useful for other tasks as well, adding to it’s versatility. Tint Safe – Yes Scent – Berry Bottle Sizes – 236ml, 946ml or 1 gallon concentrates Rating – Un tested by me ![]() Next, glass sealants.
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