New to cycling - Page 93

DBourne · 12-05-2016, 11:14 AM

I keep getting tempted by the Vector pedals.

I have absolutely no need for them at all, but who doesn't like more toys / numbers.

blueoval · 12-05-2016, 11:50 AM

My mate has the Vector pedals linked with his Garmin 1000. Says they worked well when they connect but had trouble with the pedals dropping out of sync and the batteries being chewed out prematurely. So beware. I'd do some product reviews before forking out your hard earned for them.

geckoGT · 12-05-2016, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

My mate has the Vector pedals linked with his Garmin 1000. Says they worked well when they connect but had trouble with the pedals dropping out of sync and the batteries being chewed out prematurely. So beware. I'd do some product reviews before forking out your hard earned for them.

Does he have Vector 2 with a sensor in both pedals? Sounds like it is as they have to pair the pedals together. Mine is is the vector S which is left pedal only so that is not an issue. I have heard that it is important to calibrate the unit before each ride which is not hard to do and only takes a minute to do so. I will be interested to see what the battery life is.

blueoval · 12-05-2016, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Does he have Vector 2 with a sensor in both pedals? Sounds like it is as they have to pair the pedals together. Mine is is the vector S which is left pedal only so that is not an issue. I have heard that it is important to calibrate the unit before each ride which is not hard to do and only takes a minute to do so. I will be interested to see what the battery life is.

Yeah its the Vector 2. Wasnt sure which exactly he had but he has now gone with stages and says its a lot more stable. He had to calibrate the vectors every 15km by pedalling backward for a few seconds. Weird but apparently it worked for him that way.

geckoGT · 13-05-2016, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

Yeah its the Vector 2. Wasnt sure which exactly he had but he has now gone with stages and says its a lot more stable. He had to calibrate the vectors every 15km by pedalling backward for a few seconds. Weird but apparently it worked for him that way.

That issue has been fixed with a software update.

**Captain Stubing** · 14-05-2016, 05:30 PM

The time has come, when the MS Brissie to the Bay ride is on. I've signed up for the 100km ride, and have been fundraising to help victims of MS, and to fund research.

I found out a couple of weeks ago that the husband of a woman at work has just been diagnosed with MS, and he is fit and healthy in his mid 40's!

Anyway, if anyone has a spare (tax deductible) dollar to spare, my fundraising page is:

https://msqldevents.com.au/champion/...code=140024578

Its a worthy cause, and one that I'm happy to participate in. Plus it's been getting me out on the bike more!

SumoDog68 · 14-05-2016, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBourne

I keep getting tempted by the Vector pedals.

I have absolutely no need for them at all, but who doesn't like more toys / numbers.

Power2Max or Quark are worth a look. SRM would be even nicer but $$$.

Batmobile · 15-05-2016, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

My mate has the Vector pedals linked with his Garmin 1000. Says they worked well when they connect but had trouble with the pedals dropping out of sync and the batteries being chewed out prematurely. So beware. I'd do some product reviews before forking out your hard earned for them.

Its a shame , I heard the same .. It's was a great idea , allowing one to record "power" from one bike to the other . . I sampled the pedals in SA at the Tour DownUnder so many years ago, and i remember coming home with the pedals on my wishlist . However, as the years rolled on Garmin couldn't get the pedals to return consistent results . Real shame .

geckoGT · 16-05-2016, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batmobile

Its a shame , I heard the same .. It's was a great idea , allowing one to record "power" from one bike to the other . . I sampled the pedals in SA at the Tour DownUnder so many years ago, and i remember coming home with the pedals on my wishlist . However, as the years rolled on Garmin couldn't get the pedals to return consistent results . Real shame .

Strange because the long term reviews I have read tell a different story, example.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/09/g...or-review.html

Batmobile · 16-05-2016, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Strange because the long term reviews I have read tell a different story, example.
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/09/g...or-review.html

You're very right the earlier reports were very good . However i wasnt able to find a recent report or local supplier who supported the earlier reports to have the confidence to buy.

geckoGT · 16-05-2016, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batmobile

You're very right the earlier reports were very good . However i wasnt able to find a recent report or local supplier who supported the earlier reports to have the confidence to buy.

I will let you know how I go. We do remember that I only have the Garmin Vector S which is single pedal (left side) and therefore I cannot comment on the Garmin dual pedal models. All of the pairing issues I read about occurred with the dual pedal models.

All reviews I read stated that the end figures compared very well with other systems such as SRM and Stages. Not that this really matters as it is not how it compares with other systems that really counts but how consistent it is over time. If a Garmin is reading 250w and a Stages reads 255w it does not really matter, as long as the result is consistent at the same workload. Much like a chassis dyno, no two are the same but as long as the same dyno is consistent then it is a useful tool for guaging engine performace for tuning. A power meter is just a tuning tool for your cycling.

Batmobile · 17-05-2016, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

I will let you know how I go. We do remember that I only have the Garmin Vector S which is single pedal (left side) and therefore I cannot comment on the Garmin dual pedal models. All of the pairing issues I read about occurred with the dual pedal models.

All reviews I read stated that the end figures compared very well with other systems such as SRM and Stages. Not that this really matters as it is not how it compares with other systems that really counts but how consistent it is over time. If a Garmin is reading 250w and a Stages reads 255w it does not really matter, as long as the result is consistent at the same workload. Much like a chassis dyno, no two are the same but as long as the same dyno is consistent then it is a useful tool for guaging engine performace for tuning. A power meter is just a tuning tool for your cycling.

Agree. I also acknowledge that i havent done sufficient homework on the single pedal system. I do know their work with the dual pedal system was producing variable results and they sort to get a constant result and had not been able
I too agree , i didnt care whether the system read a higher or lower reading than another system as long as it was able to consistently provide with acceptable tolerances a similar reading for a known effort.
I have been doing quite as bit of 15km time trials on a Watt Bike and it doesn't take you you long to work which is the dominant leg and how much additional work it performs over the other.
Excellent tool to bring the lazy leg up to speed so i would be interested to hear how you are tracking your separate leg performance and how you are managing the difference

geckoGT · 17-05-2016, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batmobile

Agree. I also acknowledge that i havent done sufficient homework on the single pedal system. I do know their work with the dual pedal system was producing variable results and they sort to get a constant result and had not been able
I too agree , i didnt care whether the system read a higher or lower reading than another system as long as it was able to consistently provide with acceptable tolerances a similar reading for a known effort.
I have been doing quite as bit of 15km time trials on a Watt Bike and it doesn't take you you long to work which is the dominant leg and how much additional work it performs over the other.
Excellent tool to bring the lazy leg up to speed so i would be interested to hear how you are tracking your separate leg performance and how you are managing the difference

At this stage I am not guaging individual leg power looking for inequality. Considering I have a history of 2x knee reconstructions and multiple surgeries on the R leg with very prolonged rehabilitation I would not be surprised if there were some level of inequality. The strange thing is when I was training for Ironman and training on a computrainer my spin scan showed reasonable equality.

As I am not competing now and ride because I enjoy it I do not see the value in going too far into the power analysis. Additionally many of the articles I have read suggest even the top teams and sports physiologists don't quite know what to do with L and R leg comparative data with some reporting attempting to equalise power can actually decrease overall power performance.

Short answer is at this stage I am not tracking L and R leg equality and have little interest in doing so. My primary reason for buying a power meter was to give me a quantifiable data on my training when confined to an indoor trainer for 8 days out of 14 and keep that training honest. .

**Captain Stubing** · 17-05-2016, 07:09 PM

My collection of bike parts has grown... I can start putting Eddy together. I only need a bottom bracket and bar tape (and probably a bell...)

I will no doubt do a lot on Thursday, once I've got the cranks installed I can work out where to cut the seat post ... That will be nerve wracking! But I'll have it ready for my MS Brissie to Bay ride.

Batmobile · 17-05-2016, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

My collection of bike parts has grown... I can start putting Eddy together. I only need a bottom bracket and bar tape (and probably a bell...)

image

I will no doubt do a lot on Thursday, once I've got the cranks installed I can work out where to cut the seat post ... That will be nerve wracking! But I'll have it ready for my MS Brissie to Bay ride.

Swanny those Zonda are well priced at the moment at about half the price that you paid a few years back , but I would have thought with your build kit you would have opted for Ultra Shamal or the Fulrum Racing Zero 'Dark' ?

**Captain Stubing** · 17-05-2016, 10:46 PM

Keeping the spending a little sensible... There's always upgrades in the future!

Eg.. Oh, look, the braking track is worn out... time to get something better...

prydey · 17-05-2016, 11:40 PM

I have zondas. Pretty good value if you get them on sale. I paid $380 for mine off wiggle a couple of years ago. just have to keep your eyes out as every now and then there is some good specials on wheel sets.

geckoGT · 18-05-2016, 07:16 AM

Looking like you are ready to launch, the anticipation must be killing you as I know it did me when my groupset arrived but I could not commence the build.
I see the cranks are pre 2015 record which is good because they have to be one of the best looking cranksets campag ever put out, they look a lot nicer than the new model.

**Captain Stubing** · 20-05-2016, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Looking like you are ready to launch, the anticipation must be killing you as I know it did me when my groupset arrived but I could not commence the build.
I see the cranks are pre 2015 record which is good because they have to be one of the best looking cranksets campag ever put out, they look a lot nicer than the new model.

Launched, then stuttered to a stop... I've been waiting all week for a bottom bracket to arrive, finally got it this morning. I then had a look at the crankset I had bought second hand, and found a bearing to be missing on the drive side. I found a shop that sold them (must be gold filled), installed the crank, and cracked open the new chain... must be installed with Campy chain tool, otherwise you risk death. The Campy chain tool is over $200... so it's either quick-links (which may be a fraction of a mm wider), a Lezyne tool for $50, or go for the posh Campy tool.

Now that the crank is installed, I can start measuring to cut the seat post, while I wait for the Lezyne tool to arrive.

geckoGT · 20-05-2016, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

Launched, then stuttered to a stop... I've been waiting all week for a bottom bracket to arrive, finally got it this morning. I then had a look at the crankset I had bought second hand, and found a bearing to be missing on the drive side. I found a shop that sold them (must be gold filled), installed the crank, and cracked open the new chain... must be installed with Campy chain tool, otherwise you risk death. The Campy chain tool is over $200... so it's either quick-links (which may be a fraction of a mm wider), a Lezyne tool for $50, or go for the posh Campy tool.

Now that the crank is installed, I can start measuring to cut the seat post, while I wait for the Lezyne tool to arrive.

Got to love those Campagnolo prices. I just spent over $100 on a part for my rear hub, a front dérailleur alignment tool, a front dérailleur cable clamp washer and a couple of cables. It will be worth it in the end.
You have a few options with the chain. There is a joining link that works, I got one from the bike shop in Kedron. I forget the brand but it something like yzk, pretty cheap but they lock in and function pretty well. Do not use kmc as they are too wide and don't lock in. The other option is to run a shimano dura ace chain, they work ok. Another is if you have a really good quality chain tool to drive the joining pin in I have a park tools peening tool I could send you. You need a really good chain tool as the alignment has to be spot on when you drive the pin in, any side load from poor alignment will snap the pin before it is seated. Final option is go for a kmc chain instead of the Campagnolo. I am now running a kmc x11sl and fitting is easy with joining link, it runs smoother than a Campagnolo and it is more readily available.
By the way I looked into it and the pre and post 2015 Campagnolo record cassette are interchangeable. The shifters, FD and RD are not but the chains and cassette are. Apparently there is some argument as to the crank sets are but Campagnolo says they aren't. I found out as I am going to order a chorus 11 speed cassette for my old wheels to use as indoor trainer wheels.

**Captain Stubing** · 20-05-2016, 10:57 PM

I've ordered the Lezyne tool, as the missus said, "you're going to have it for a while, you might as well have the tools to service it."
I did some of the same research, and have the Chorus cassette. Some say the lower model cassettes are made of a heavier metal, so while heavier, don't wear quite so quick.

Edit: The Leyzene tool also has a peening tool for the joining link.

geckoGT · 20-05-2016, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

I've ordered the Lezyne tool, as the missus said, "you're going to have it for a while, you might as well have the tools to service it."
I did some of the same research, and have the Chorus cassette. Some say the lower model cassettes are made of a heavier metal, so while heavier, don't wear quite so quick.

Edit: The Leyzene tool also has a peening tool for the joining link.

Many of the pro teams run chorus cassettes for longevity, weight isn't an issue due to the UCI minimum weights.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...l/rp-prod73420

Is that the tool? Doesn't look like it has the peening tool in it.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...1/rp-prod50305
This is the one I have which is unused as my chain tool has not yet successfully driven a pin through without breaking it.

**Captain Stubing** · 20-05-2016, 11:15 PM

The other issue I'm having is a clearance problem beneath the rear brake caliper. The rear tyre isn't completely round, and touches on each revolution. Spacing the caliper out with an extra star washer helps a little, next thing to try is swapping the front tyre to the rear, to see if it's a manufacturing fault.

geckoGT · 20-05-2016, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

The other issue I'm having is a clearance problem beneath the rear brake caliper. The rear tyre isn't completely round, and touches on each revolution. Spacing the caliper out with an extra star washer helps a little, next thing to try is swapping the front tyre to the rear, to see if it's a manufacturing fault.

What size tyre are you running. My conti GP4000 25mm only just clear. Tyres should be round, is it seated properly?

**Captain Stubing** · 20-05-2016, 11:20 PM

Same... Conti GP4000 25mm. Fronts are no problem, the rear tyre has a raised section.

geckoGT · 20-05-2016, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

Same... Conti GP4000 25mm. Fronts are no problem, the rear tyre has a raised section.

Defective tyre, they should clear.

**Captain Stubing** · 20-05-2016, 11:23 PM

I might try taking it back to exchange.

**Captain Stubing** · 21-05-2016, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...l/rp-prod73420

Is that the tool? Doesn't look like it has the peening tool in it.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...1/rp-prod50305

I missed your edit last night,Gecko. Lezyne have an 11 speed version designed for Campag, with the flaring tool included.

https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/a/bi...11sp/102832200

geckoGT · 26-05-2016, 09:55 AM

Swanny how did you go with getting the tyre replaced? How is the build progressing?

**Captain Stubing** · 26-05-2016, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoGT

Swanny how did you go with getting the tyre replaced? How is the build progressing?

I tried swapping the front and rear tyres, and the clearance on the front calliper is such that the tyres do not foul now. That's with no load on, of course, I'll have to see what happens when I add my weight to it.

The build is still on hold, I'm hoping the chain tool will arrive tomorrow, as it was posted from Melbourne either Tuesday or Wednesday.

I'm nearly halfway through ten shifts in a row, so I haven't had much time to pace up and down, or take it to a bike shop to speed things up. But I did fix an annoying creak in the Avanti... I took the pedals off to measure the seat height on the Merckx, greased the threads, when I put them back on to ride to work the creak was gone!