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14-06-2008, 02:30 PM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 562
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Does anyone know how to remove this sucker. Its leaking, and there appears to be no way known that I can get a spanner onto the underside of the switch to remove it.
Please dont tell me that I have to remove the rack to get to the switch. |
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14-06-2008, 03:20 PM | #2 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Ive done a few on my car. Man be prepared to put some time in. you need to try with a spanner.Then if that doesnt work pull out the multigrips.The mutigrips takes ages but youll get it in the end.
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14-06-2008, 04:15 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 562
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Thanks Stav, but I dropped the rack off and found I was able to get at it.
I've just installed a two post lift in my new garage, and it makes life so much easier. It ended up taking about 15 minutes when you can stand up under the car. |
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14-06-2008, 04:35 PM | #4 | |||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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Quote:
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Stingray Car Security ph 0414445444 Single din radio fascias for fg to fgx fords Australia wide . FG 1 2 and 3 gauge holder in stock now! https://stingraycar.com.au/shop/ Site Sponsor See Sponsor Stingray Car Security 😍👌✌ AU wagon 6 14.241@96.75 1/4 mile sold.Octane fg xr6 turbo!! 12.312 112.21 mph home tune f6 injectors gone ..now in nitro fgxr6t ready to go again |
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14-06-2008, 05:53 PM | #5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria!
Posts: 348
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I wish i had a hoist in my garage instead of theo ne at work. I heated up a spanner and bent it into the shape required so it just bent around, and left the rack in.
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15-06-2008, 11:53 AM | #7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Victoria!
Posts: 348
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Yeah ive been trying to convinve my old man to get one in the shed, he is retired, with way too much time and money on his hands! But im thinking if he has a lift, he has no way of falling asleep on the creeper under the car...
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15-06-2008, 11:11 PM | #8 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,532
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Bend a spanner at 90 degrees (approx) so you can get it, turn the handle of bent spanner with another spanner
Loosen the main rack nuts helps sometimes too Always a pain of a job |
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16-06-2008, 10:26 AM | #9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Townsville
Posts: 260
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I had some old push bike spanners (about 1 mm thick) so I just bent that to the perfect shape and it worked like a dream.
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16-06-2008, 06:42 PM | #10 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,532
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I used some of them for a while until they snapped, so I made my proper one then. At least they fixed this on the BA. Easy to get at but have never needed to change one either.... Go figure
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29-03-2013, 03:36 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 5,005
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FMD
How can such a simple thing cause so many problems? Thus look at the number of threads on this subject? HOW am I supposed to get this sucker out? Even if I wanted to butcher a spanner, I don’t have a bench grinder, nor a torch & vice to bend it. Tried multi-grips, but I just can’t get enough purchase. Like most, ours is leaking around the wires. Is there any way I can simply glue that end up? |
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29-03-2013, 06:56 PM | #12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 454
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Glue will not hold. You can cut the spanner with a hacksaw. To get mine out required the usual blood sacrifice but it can be done.
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29-03-2013, 08:19 PM | #13 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Have you tried with a pipe wrench - it will offer more grip than a set of multi grips.
I would also have a go with a crows foot. I've always just had the rack out, replacing other bits, so never done it in car, but they would be the options I would go for. Last edited by Evgeni; 29-03-2013 at 08:26 PM. |
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30-03-2013, 03:22 AM | #14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 397
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I used an grinder to grind away the excess metal from a spanner. Works great
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30-03-2013, 02:15 PM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 5,005
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Ok, multi-grips do not work. Pretty sure I just destroyed the switch in the donor car.
Have stuck some glue in it for now. Might slow the leak but won’t hold under pressure, so nowhere near fixed. The crowsfoot looks like an option? |
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30-03-2013, 04:19 PM | #16 | |||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Quote:
Otherwise you can go to a good quality tool store - cant remember the size, but a single crowsfoot wrench is around $20 for a good quality one. Just stick a 3/8 extension onto it and I reckon it wont give you anymore trouble. |
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02-04-2013, 09:05 PM | #17 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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had an old wrench and cut the end off... welded a short 3/8 drive extension on the angle required ....cut off the excess metal on the sides of the wrench and have the perfect tool takes about 5 mins and jobs done...special tool number one...i have 4 au's to keep on tthe road so its worth while fiddling with job specific tools
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03-04-2013, 01:06 AM | #18 | ||||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 5,005
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Quote:
Quote:
I'm not against buying a cheap spanner and modifying it, but I don't really understand what needs to ground down? Would a crows foot work, or would that need to be ground down also? |
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03-04-2013, 05:20 PM | #19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 5,005
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Alternatively,
How hard is it to drop the whole rack, or could I get accss by just removing the steeringcolumn link? |
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03-04-2013, 06:36 PM | #20 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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The crows foot was made for tight spots like this or for attaching onto the end of torque wrenches. You would just put an extension arm on it and then attach your ratchet.
Getting the rack out - Remove fluid lines from rack and drain the system. Loosen the 2x14mm bolts on the exhaust manifold. Remove anti roll bar Undo tie rod ends 18mm and use a puller or dead hammer blow to release the tie rod ball joint. Lock steering and take a measurement from a fixed point on the rack to the tie rod. Remove the two bolts holding the intermediate shaft on and pry it off the pinion. Remove two 19mm bolts holding the rack on and then you can get to the power steering switch. |
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04-04-2013, 12:19 AM | #21 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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Note:
a) it is much easier to get to the switch from underneath with the right front wheel removed; and b) that the switches come with different sized hex's so usually the aftermarket replacement ones require a different sized spanner than the OEM Ford ones which means using the new switch to determine the spanner size will not always work; and c) Metrinch spanners work well for their removal.
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regards Blue |
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04-04-2013, 03:34 PM | #22 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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Note also that the buna rubber and nitrile "o" rings supplied with most swiches are not hydraulic fluid resistant and turn to mush after a few months. You need polyacrylate "o" rings but I can't find a supplier so I am currently experimenting with some Loctite hydraulic sealant products.
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regards Blue |
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04-04-2013, 03:38 PM | #23 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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in regards to the "o" rings ..check with a hydraulic specialist..eg enzed or pirtek they would have heavy duty o rings..
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04-04-2013, 04:30 PM | #24 | ||
454 Power
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Townsville, NQ
Posts: 1,026
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I did this job a couple of weekends ago.
Spent an hour or so getting no where with various different spanners. Ended up finding a cheap spanner and ground the edges down to make it a slim profile. Job done in 5 minutes after that.
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04-04-2013, 06:54 PM | #25 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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Hmm the brown Vitan O ring I got from a hydraulic place has failed too.
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regards Blue |
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05-04-2013, 01:46 AM | #26 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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Hopefully the Loctite Hydraulic Sealant 54294 will have fixed it. If not, next stop might be a $100 Kalrez Spectrum 75 "O" ring.
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regards Blue |
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08-04-2013, 10:02 AM | #27 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 234
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Had mine done commercially by a mechanic .....
INVOICE. November 2012: Supply and fit power steer rack switch, o-ring and p/s oil. Parts $100.30; labour $50.00; (Abt 1/2 hour at this value, I figure) GST $15.03. TOTAL = $165.33
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-- Ford Fairmont Ghia AU2, 3/2001, Tickford 4.0 I6, 12v SOHC VCT MPFI, sedan with IRS standard suspension -- ----- ANJ is a practical beast, but still a lady, that I want to keep alive until at least2021 ----- -------- Preventative Maintenance Policy -------- |
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08-04-2013, 02:06 PM | #28 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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The Loctite 542 sealant seems to be doing the job.
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regards Blue |
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12-04-2013, 02:05 AM | #29 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Perth, Northern Suburbs
Posts: 5,005
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[WIKI][/WIKI]
Quote:
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2024
I can hear the Hippies crying from here. |
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12-04-2013, 07:58 AM | #30 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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OK - they are flared.
http://www.transquip.com.au/products...anner-Set.html Here is a set from KC which are open ended. Otherwise it is about 45min to drop the rack. |
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