Eb falcon has no spark from coil onward

My77f100 · 19-11-2021, 11:10 PM

Hey fellas, having an issue with the old man’s Eb Fairmont , it broke down today showed up to find out the new fuel pump seemed to have no power to it , so it was tilt tested home , once there I checked the fuel pump relay cleaned the connection and used a wire to bypass the relay connecting the larger wire , pump came to life no issue , so reconnected the relay and all is working , cranked car over and still won’t start , so checked the spark .

Found it had no spark , so checked the coil and the the coil power wire to find it had no power either , so cleaned it all up and it got power , put it on the coil and then the coil smoked and made cracking noises took it off as it had blown and replaced it with a new one , so now fuel pump and coil both have power , but from the coil to the leads there’s still no spark , so car won’t start it cranks strong but that’s it , so was told to check the module on the dizzy buy loosening the dizzy and turning it to see if the fuel pump regulator buzzes , it did but I took the plug off the module to find it full of engine oil ? So thinking I need to replace the module now , do ya have to remove the dizzy to do that or can I do it in the car ? Has anyone had a similar issue ? Any ideas or advice would be great

**aussiblue** · 20-11-2021, 12:01 AM

You can replace the module without removing the distributor. This tool or similar https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22448870...frcectupt=true or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25469813...0AAOSwYSZfQ3Yv or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22424447...4AAOSwTnpfugZz while not essential can make it easier. Remember to smear heat sink grease (Altronics or Jaycar can supply) on the plate on the TFI module where it sit on the distributor and put the same paste in the TFI wiring harness plug to stop water ingress (that's not what you saw and assumed was engine oil was it?). See https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...oubleshooting/ while this is US Ford Ranger site the tests and specs for the TFI module (including the resistance readings shown under "Old Testing Procedure" are identical for the one in your Falcon. It's also repeated here: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php...oubleshooting/ Ditto see https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ry/OBD_I.shtml and https://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/Fo...OEO-Falcon.php for fault code scanning and https://www.w8ji.com/distributor_stabbing.htm (for TFI mounting tips). Also note that Ford specify that for the car to start or run, the ignition spark must be able to jump a minimum of at least a 6mm gap when measured at a spark plug lead or at the distributor cap end of the high tension ("King") lead that goes from the coil to the center of the distributor cap (they usually can jump more like 30 mm in a healthy system). Best measured with one of these https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/.../SPO81644.html or https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...=en_AU&start=3 . The spark testers that light up light these https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...=en_AU&start=1 are no good for this test . This ignition system emits volts in the Kilovolt range so not a good idea to test using a screwdriver or holding an old plug against an earth point in the engine bay (while "it's the volts that jolt and the mills that kills" people have been known to get a heart attack trying that method).

This is a technical thread so in the wrong part of this forum (Noting the header at the top of this section:

Quote:

E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

and should be moved to https://fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=26 I think mods.

**aussiblue** · 20-11-2021, 12:38 AM

Note also the suppressor capacitor connected between the coil and the block needs to be in place and working as, in addition to providing ignition radio noise suppression, it is a required earth needed for the TFI ignitions sytem to work properly. The capacitance value is not critical though and most generic automotive ignition capacitors will work fine.

My77f100 · 20-11-2021, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Note also the suppressor capacitor connected between the coil and the block needs to be in place and working as, in addition to providing ignition radio noise suppression, it is a required earth needed for the TFI ignitions sytem to work properly. The capacitance value is not critical though and most generic automotive ignition capacitors will work fine.

Awesome , I will just replace the small capacitor barrel thing as well, the car played up bait stalling a few times last few weeks and would start again but this time it’s just stopped and will not restart it cranks but won’t fire does that sound like a module failure ?