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19-02-2010, 09:10 AM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ...in the shed
Posts: 3,386
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hey guys just been looking into this, i know a lot have had it done but was wondering if anyone has attempted to actually put the lot in themselves, is it a rather hard job to do?
any tips and tricks? also whats the going price for a decent auto, has about 205,000 km on it but just been flushed probably 1000 ago, seems to be in very good condition. |
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19-02-2010, 11:03 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bexley, Sydney
Posts: 658
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Bartsau has done it. Might be worth asking him(see below link) I am also doing it in the next 6 - 12 months, already have the box but am just collecting other parts(pedal box, clutch kit e.t.c.).
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11285330
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Formerly LV Focus XR5, AU Fairmont Ghia V8 & EBII Fairmont I6. Now...... 2012 FG MK2 XR6 Turbo - Manual & Luxury Pack - 302rwkw 2019 Escape St-Line |
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19-02-2010, 03:46 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ...in the shed
Posts: 3,386
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seems easy enough, called around a few wreckers and nobody seems to have a manual tail shaft or manual S1 ecu. what exactly is the difference between the auto and manual tail shafts
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19-02-2010, 05:57 PM | #4 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
Hope this helps if there is anything else just let me know. Cheers, Rhys
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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19-02-2010, 06:24 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ...in the shed
Posts: 3,386
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Cheers Rhys, do you know the size difference? i might try get my current one cut down. $350 seems a bit rich, or is that the rough price you'd pay for one anyway?
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19-02-2010, 09:26 PM | #6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
I couldn't get my tailshaft shortened as it was aluminium and he couldn't get it done. The result was that i got a new driveshaft made from steel. This one used the outer half of my original uni joints while new halfs were welded to the new steel tailshaft. The cost for this to be made up was $400. In hindsight i would have gotten a bigger steel one made up with bigger (1350) uni joints. (No point though untill i have the V8 in it as things may change again). Cheers, Rhys
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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19-02-2010, 11:42 PM | #7 | ||
AFF Whore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In between gas stations
Posts: 2,246
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How difficult would it be to do this to a fairmont ghia s1? I've been toying with the idea for a while now...
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20-02-2010, 12:55 AM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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I think there should probably be a how to on this as a lot of people are interested in doing it but unsure how to go about doing it and what is involved.
Basicly you need all of the parts: T5 Manual 5spd and cross member for supporting the rear of the gearbox Bellhousing Manual Gear Lever Manual boot (can be fitted to an auto centre console with the only problem being the small oval section where the econ switch goes (or won't be any longer)) Manual ecu (will run on an auto ecu but the thermo fans will run continuously and it will idle a little high) a replacement manual is best to be of the same series otherwise chances are it won't work due to different processor speeds and smartlock vs smartsheild. Clutch kit (including pressure plate, clutch plate and spigot bearing) correct me if i'm wrong. Clutch Cable Pedal box (If doing it on series II/III you will have to drill 4 holes in a series I pedal box to get it to fit and vice versa using series II/III in a series I you will need to drill 2 holes.) These holes are for the studs of the brake booster. Manual flywheel. Manual sandwidge plate thing between bellhousing and block Bearing in the back of the crankshaft Manual driveshaft or get one made up (can have yours shortened if it is steel but most aren't) Manual is shorter by an amount over auto but not too sure how much. I think that is about it. There are probably a few other small bits and pieces. I only fitted centre console and pedal box (Series I into series III so out with the drill) but got my mechanic to fit the rest and organise the tailshaft. Your best bet is to pick up a wrecked manual of the same series if possible and sell what parts you don't want. Hope this helps. Cheers, Rhys
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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