3.9L Finally Dead

Brent79 · 14-03-2007, 12:34 PM

Well after 515,000Kms my 3.9L has decided to pack it in. It seems after replacing the head gasket that my block did indeed have a crack in the #5 cylinder. Damn! Im kinda surprised that the block cracked first considering it didnt overheat and the bearings and rings are original items!

So, after long consideration ive decided to keep the old wagon and give it
an exchange engine! What kinda engine should i get? 3.9? (cheap) 4L (good with no mods) or an AU (mods?) Ive also got a ED tickford head on the stuffed motor, would it be worthwile taking the head over to the new block?
What kinda $$$ do mechs charge to replace engines?? cheers

Brent

**Professor Farnsworth** · 14-03-2007, 12:42 PM

if you're up for a few mods, go an AU motor, but in all honesty mate, i'd just buy a whole new car. You could get a decent EA Ghia sedan or wagon for the same price if not less than it would cost to reco your current car.

or you could buy my EB Ghia V8 :P

needaXYGT · 14-03-2007, 12:48 PM

if you want to keep the wagon for some kind of sentimental value, then slap an AU engine in it!

Brent79 · 14-03-2007, 12:50 PM

yea but this one is a manual, perfect paint, EL interior and a **** load of blood, sweat and tears! If it didnt mean anything to me, i wouldnt keep it as ive got another car.
Was just real fun to cruise around in!

Brent

Brent79 · 14-03-2007, 12:53 PM

needaXYGT, doesnt an AU engine need a special sump tho?? can i just buy a new EA-EL sump and put it on???

Brent

EDXR6T · 14-03-2007, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent79

needaXYGT, doesnt an AU engine need a special sump tho?? can i just buy a new EA-EL sump and put it on???

Brent

There is a dedicated AU engine conversion thread in the technical section.

Its easy as **** if you use the orignal Accessories setup.

$550 for an AU engine, $200 for thermo fan's then i donno i guess a decent shop will charge about $600-$700 for the change over? Mabey a bit more.

Do it your self its an easy job.

**Polyal** · 14-03-2007, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDXR6T

There is a dedicated AU engine conversion thread in the technical section.

Its easy as **** if you use the orignal Accessories setup.

$550 for an AU engine, $200 for thermo fan's then i donno i guess a decent shop will charge about $600-$700 for the change over? Mabey a bit more.

Do it your self its an easy job.

I agree, if my motor ever dies (or should I say when), its AU time.

Although its only easy if you have the right tools.

atec77 · 14-03-2007, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent79

Well after 515,000Kms my 3.9L has decided to pack it in. It seems after replacing the head gasket that my block did indeed have a crack in the #5 cylinder. Damn! Im kinda surprised that the block cracked first considering it didnt overheat and the bearings and rings are original items!

So, after long consideration ive decided to keep the old wagon and give it
an exchange engine! What kinda engine should i get? 3.9? (cheap) 4L (good with no mods) or an AU (mods?) Ive also got a ED tickford head on the stuffed motor, would it be worthwile taking the head over to the new block?
What kinda $$$ do mechs charge to replace engines?? cheers

Brent

so 800 or so for a motor and box out a later model car and a day or two to swap it doing the work your self , seems reasonable

EA2BA · 14-03-2007, 01:17 PM

AU motor = stuffing around to fit.
EF/EL motor = straight drop in and a simple job.

Christiaan · 14-03-2007, 01:20 PM

Yeh, you wont be able to run the multi belt setup on an AU motor without it being a cut and shut job.

You'll need to run serpentine accessories.

EF/EL donk = straight drop in

EDXR6T · 14-03-2007, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

AU motor = stuffing around to fit.
EF/EL motor = straight drop in and a simple job.

Stuffing around to fit?

Only mod is the sump. If its going in to an EF/L you have to mod the sump and K frame.

The price I quoted is including every thing, bar gearbox.

XRated · 14-03-2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

Yeh, you wont be able to run the multi belt setup on an AU motor without it being a cut and shut job.

You'll need to run serpentine accessories.

EF/EL donk = straight drop in

Why would you bother retaining the crappy multi-belt setup anyway?

Granted the EF/EL is a straight drop-in, surely the extra effort of putting in an AU engine is well-worth the effort.

EA2BA · 14-03-2007, 01:51 PM

I like to have clearance between parts I mean good clearance, 5mm or less between cross member and sump that has been ground down and lost some structural integrity is not very appealing to me is all.

Doesn't the bell housing also have to be changed too.

EDXR6T · 14-03-2007, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

I like to have clearance between parts I mean good clearance, 5mm or less between cross member and sump that has been ground down and lost some structural integrity is not very appealing to me is all.

If your engine is moving 5mm's back and forward I would rather find out why this is. I would rather a ground down sump over a dancing engine block any day.

even with lossing the 10mm or what ever it is off the front of the sump you still have the thincknes of the sump wall its self which is about 10mm.

If this setup can run fine with boost thru it and not develope any crack's or problems I cant see any harm an N/A will cause.

Bell housing needs two bolt holes drilled in the bottom. Or delete them.

Sundeep · 14-03-2007, 01:58 PM

Just chuck the motor in yourself Brent, whatever you decide.

In case y'all don't know, this guy was the first to do a MPI conversion out of everyone on the original forums. Went through a lot of pain to help others by way of providing information on how to do it, including me.

Sundeep

EA2BA · 14-03-2007, 02:01 PM

The AU motor is so good because why, nothing too special about it, only thing going for it is that you can pick up a low K motor and not have to rebuild it, but if you dont get an AU2 motor you wont have a metal head gasket anyways. The Au motor also has alot less cams avaliable for it.

EDXR6T · 14-03-2007, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

The AU motor is so good because why, nothing too special about it, only thing going for it is that you can pick up a low K motor and not have to rebuild it, but if you dont get an AU2 motor you wont have a metal head gasket anyways. The Au motor also has alot less cams avaliable for it.

Surecam make good grinds so I dont now why people say there arnte any cams out there for them, People just arnte looking hard enough.

The pro's of an AU engine over an EF/L is..

There are alot more lower k blocks around, you get the extra comp (If its a series 2 upwards) And they are a proven reliable engine.

Plus good bang for buck.

EA2BA · 14-03-2007, 02:13 PM

The EA motor was a proven reliable engine too, it just died at 515,000k

I guess it's what suits the person at the end of the day, and I prefer to stick with an EF/EL motor.

EDXR6T · 14-03-2007, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

The EA motor was a proven reliable engine too, it just died at 515,000k

It sure did.

Most Inline six Die at over half a million k's.

We'll keep it at "Each to there own"

OED666 · 14-03-2007, 02:49 PM

Brent79 - If your car is in the same condition as i can remember, DO NOT GET RID OF IT!!!

Wack in an AU motor. The only mod required to fit is grind a small rib flat on the sump. it will not make it any weaker.

If you already have thermos your set. Get the AU accessories (alternator, p/s pump and ef/el ac compressor) you can use your existing manifolds, and your bellhousing will bolt up, but a couple of the bolts wont line up.

4000rpm launches with traction, and mine seeing 6000rpm more times than i care to remember hasnt removed the bellhousing yet.

if you have any questions, send me a pm, i will help you

XRated · 14-03-2007, 03:13 PM

I thought there were some significant changes in the AU engines? Integrated sump, better (balanced?) crank, something to do with the girdle etc?...

OED666 · 14-03-2007, 03:54 PM

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=27259

From my AU engine conversion thead...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rollin

...

All the differences between the motors are actually IMPROVEMENTS - smaller valve stems, springs, collets, cam lobes etc all contribute to lower valvetrain mass, meaning an engine that revs quicker and 'freer'

Au engines have a better rod to stroke ratio, meaning the rods don't have to work on as bigger angles, less side loading on bores means less wear, less power loss through friction, more revs, more hp.

Each main bearing cap is held in place by 6 bolts, instead of the two on our engines...again, stronger, stiffer, more reliable.

The head responds better to porting than any previous head, again, more possible hp.

AU engines poo all over earlier engines from a great height, no contest.*

Q: How fun is it to rev an engine to the end of the factory tacho, and have the car hammer all the way to 6000rpm?

A: Very fun...OED666 was kind enough to let me drive his car after we finished it, you couldn't wipe the smile off my dial with a sledgehammer.

*thats not to say earlier engines are poo, they are very very good, it's just AU engines are very very very good...

Brent79 · 14-03-2007, 08:24 PM

Well thanks for all the replys! Ive decided to just go with a ED-4L block and throw the tickford head on... saves on alot of bugger-arsing around and i dont have to go buying new parts! AU engine would be nice but im not prepared to mod the engine any more so i dont see much point!! Thanks for the offer paul and yes its still in excellent condition! (Has been in garage most of the time)

Brent

Walkinshaw · 14-03-2007, 09:05 PM

Brent just chemiweld it back up. Cant stop at only 500,000