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Race Brakes Sydney Street and race performance pad / rotor combinations as well as brake upgrades and Exedy clutch kits. Website Link |
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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 14
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Hi,
I just wanted to ask are the Brembo 6 piston front calipers and the brakes in general any good ? The reason I ask is my factory brembo rotors were warped by 52000kms in the front. They were 2000kms out of warranty so ford refused to replace them. Got quoted nearly $1500 to replace the front 2 discs, supply only. Then I had to replace the rear rotors as well about 10000kms after the fronts. I went for DBA T3 slotted front rotors to replace the original brembo discs with bendix pads and I went DBA T3 slotted for the rear rotors as well with bendix pads. I've now got 96000kms on the car and it is at my mechanics now and it looks like the fronts are warping again, the front pads are almost gone and for some reason the rear pads are gone down to the limit. I seriously don't drive this car hard at all, its just used to commute from my place to the city each day, its a big drive nearly 70kms each way but at least 2/3 of the trip is on the freeway. Any suggestions on what to replace the discs with this time ???
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If It Won't Go...Force It... Then Force It Some More!! |
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#2 | |||
Race Brakes Sydney
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SYDNEY
Posts: 3,613
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Quote:
The brakes you have are awesome and don't let anyone tell you they aren't. I would not personally suggest Bendix pads for the application but some would argue. I believe the rears may have just worn out and need replacing but i would strongly think you need to make sure the front hubs were cleaned before the replacement brakes were fitted and did you have the Bendix SRT pads fitted because that is overkill for your application and driving style. Have you had the front upper control arm bushes replaced as this is a very big issue in the FG cars with Brembo 6 pots and the fault feels just like warped rotors and if not fixed will continue too cause you issues. DBA Rotors are fine or we can do the genuine ones but we recommend Bremtec , Hawk or Ferodo if the genuine pads are too expensive.
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MATTHEW PEARCE
RACE BRAKES SYDNEY = When you want it to stop Street to track is what we expertise in Phone 02 9609 1101 sales@racebrakessydney.com.au www.racebrakessydney.com.au |
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#3 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 14
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It's not a problem. The upper control arm bushes are fine. I got these checked along with all of the front end bushes and pins etc. The only thing I've needed to have replaced is the link pins in the front but that was last year.
I've had the discs in the front skimmed and new pads installed as they were stuffed and the rear discs actually didn't need skimming, plus the rear pads are fine for at least another 10K or so, they aren't on the limit, it just looks like they are low. I'm not sure on the specific type of bendix model pads being used. I did ask when they were replaced from the original brembo pads and discs that could they use a dustless pad. Thanks for getting back to me
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If It Won't Go...Force It... Then Force It Some More!! |
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#4 | ||
Race Brakes Sydney
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SYDNEY
Posts: 3,613
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OK i am guessing the general CT pad was installed and these pads are known to leave deposits on the rotor surface and cause brake shudder and we do not recommend these pads with slotted rotors at all. Remove the pads and install new pads if the problem re occurs.
If they are still the factory upper control arm bushes i would recommend to replace them as they "appear ok" on inspection but under load is when they fail and we have seen too many FG's have to replace them over the years after shudder issues and you can search the Forum for more info if you want to check out the issues others have had. Good luck and hope you get everything sorted.
__________________
MATTHEW PEARCE
RACE BRAKES SYDNEY = When you want it to stop Street to track is what we expertise in Phone 02 9609 1101 sales@racebrakessydney.com.au www.racebrakessydney.com.au |
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#5 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 14
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Once again thanks for the helpful info. Looks like i'll be swapping the pads over sooner, rather than later. Can you price me a set for the fronts if that's ok. I have DBA T3 Slotted discs in the front.
Also I 100% agree with you on the upper bushes and the front end in general. I've had them inspected a few times and each time they are checked, they aren't "busted" so they don't get replaced. From your experience what is the "goto" brand for these and can you supply them??. One more question and this might just be me, but should you when braking on these larger discs and calipers have a spongy pedal or a firm pedal. it appears with my brakes at the current setup are spongy or sluggish, I hate that as you apply the pedal its a "soft" feel, like it doesn't feel that the disc is really being "grabbed". you have to apply a decent amount of foot pressure to get the brakes to really grab. When I first got the car with the factory brembos, the brakes were nice and firm, you just had to touch the pedal and the front end would nose dive and you could pull up with ease. I'm actually in the habit of dual braking by downshifting the tiptronic and normal braking when stopping because without stomping on the pedal, id don't feel the car pulls up very well & since the discs have been warped, im not too keen on super heating the brakes every time. Maybe its just me, but it doesn't hurt too ask an expert I had a VX HSV a few years ago and someone had installed harrop brakes on it and that thing would STOP. Cheers AJ
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If It Won't Go...Force It... Then Force It Some More!! |
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#6 | |||
Race Brakes Sydney
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SYDNEY
Posts: 3,613
|
Quote:
__________________
MATTHEW PEARCE
RACE BRAKES SYDNEY = When you want it to stop Street to track is what we expertise in Phone 02 9609 1101 sales@racebrakessydney.com.au www.racebrakessydney.com.au |
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