Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > General Topics > The Pub

The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk

View Poll Results: What do you think is better on startup
Let it idle till it warms up 115 45.10%
Start moving and drive normally 140 54.90%
Voters: 255. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 23-02-2005, 10:22 PM   #1
T_Terror
The Guy You Love To Hate
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vic
Posts: 1,203
Default WarmUp Method

Whats the best way to warm up your car?

I used to idle my car for a bit while i got ready before taking off.

Then i read somewhere that it was bad, and that it was better to load your engine up and drive normally for cold starts (no redlining!) similar to running in a new engine.



What do you think?
T_Terror is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 10:27 PM   #2
8pAc
RDP #181
 
8pAc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 438
Default

I start let it idle a bit then drive off in a bit less than normal manor till things get going, then normal, wont considor hard bursts till things are at least 2/3 3/4 temp.

edit probably a bit anal but to me 15,000 km services is a death warrant to an engine in time, so, hey whatever.
8pAc is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 10:46 PM   #3
BIGKEV
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

same as above, if you load a cold engine too early with cold oil Ive found it damages the conrod bearings and gudgons in an older engine :evilsasmo
  Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 10:50 PM   #4
smciner1
Detroit Locker Equiped TM
 
smciner1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Area 51 (tm)
Posts: 4,928
Default

The XR6 I let warm up most times before taking it out. The GT I have to let warm up, it usually takes about 3 - 5 minutes before it decides it wants to idle by itself. Neither get driven hard when cold.
__________________
Apollo Blue 1974 XB Falcon GT, 557 HP
Blue Pearl 2004 BA FPV GT, 290 kW

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRJUCY
Simple give the car a rev & have a listen a Windsor makes a sort of wheezy drone similar to an angry Hugh Grant when a Clevo will sound like Satan has woke up with a hangover & realized he is out of coffee & cigarettes
Falcon GT Club of Geelong.
http://www.facebook.com/FalconGTClubGeelong
smciner1 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 10:54 PM   #5
Kryton
 
Kryton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,292
Default

to me it depends really if its a newer or an older car. older cars get warmed up more compared to newer cars.
doesnt mean that i always warm up the XF before i go to work either.
Kryton is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 11:48 PM   #6
needturbo6
ooga-lagga-ligga-lagga
 
needturbo6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Perth
Posts: 776
Default

"warm up needs to be done as quickly as possible as thats when the most damage occurs, and driving it under load will warm a car up much quicker.
Also if you read most manufacturers handbooks, the warm up procedure for almost any given car consists of light driving rather than sitting there idling it on the spot until the temperature gauge slowly begins to climb."

that is an excert from a ZOOM article written by Martin Donnan aka Street tuna

makes sense.

my understanding is also that oil also takes a lot longer to warm up than coolant, and a car shouldnt be driven hard until oil has warmed up for many reasons - engine parts are not up to temp., oil is still fairly thin (eg. 15w) until it gets warm (eg. 50)
needturbo6 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-02-2005, 11:58 PM   #7
4.0i_SiX
SiX_iN_a_RoW
 
4.0i_SiX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Capalaba Brisbane
Posts: 770
Default

i agree that light driving is ok, I usually let it idle for about a minute then creep along until shes up to operating temp. The engine should not be put under load as has been stated. The pistons actually expand faster than any other metal surrounding them which can cause scoring of the bore if they expand too rapidly without decent lubrication. This is what I have been told by a few engine builders and it makes sense to me.
__________________
Oh yeah, my G6ET eats diff bushes for breakfast!
4.0i_SiX is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 05:22 AM   #8
Mike Gayner
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
Mike Gayner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 1,488
Default

My EA doesn't really get warmed up at all, I just jump in and go. The XA is very difficult to drive when it's cold, needs a 2 - 3 minute warmup.
Mike Gayner is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 07:54 AM   #9
FordFan86
meow
 
FordFan86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Where the Pirates are.
Posts: 2,744
Default

Let it idle maybe while i throw the garage door up or get ready to drove then take it easy till it gets up to temperature
FordFan86 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 07:58 AM   #10
LTDHO
The one and only
 
LTDHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Carrum Downs, Victoria
Posts: 9,053
Default

You should not let your car warm up from idle as it causes the bores and the ring service to glase. A car should always we slowly driven. Driving it cold doesn't cause any damage. Unless you turn key and take it to red line, that will hurt!
__________________
1992 DC LTDHO 360rwkw built by me
Tuned by CVE Performance
Going of the rails on a crazy train
Other cars include Dynamic ED Sprint, Dynamic DL LTD, Sparkling Burgundy DL LTD, Yellow, Red & Blue XB sedan & Black XB Coupe
LTDHO is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 08:49 AM   #11
outback_ute
Ute Forum Moderator
Contributing Member
 
outback_ute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melb
Posts: 7,227
Default

I let it idle for a bit to allow oil to circulate & build up pressure thoughout the engine, then drive it & take it easy until temp gets up.
outback_ute is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 08:54 AM   #12
SSbaby
Banned
 
SSbaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 689
Default

Definitely drive off soon after startup as the cats heat up quicker to allow the engine's PCM into closed loop operation sooner. But keep it under 2000rpm until all fluids are up to operating temps.

Better for the car and environment. But each to their own...
__________________
Rep Power: 0
SSbaby is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 08:55 AM   #13
dansedgli
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
dansedgli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,359
Default

I drive mine off boost until the temp gets up to normal.
__________________
Turbo AU ute ~ Nice legs, shame about the face. 282rwkw at 15psi.
dansedgli is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 09:09 AM   #14
LuvinmyEB
Beware of mood swings!
 
LuvinmyEB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Western 'burbs, put your bullet proof vests on!
Posts: 1,336
Default

The EB, jump in and go when it's cold (although a little slower than I'd drive it when it's warm).

The Mk I Escort, two minutes to start it if it's really cold, then let it idle (if it doesn't stall a couple of times) for about five mins or so before take off.
__________________
1993 EBII GLi Auto, 4.0L MPI rebuilt by JMM, JMM Dev1 kit, JMM Hi Flow Cat, still to hit the quarter mile.
LuvinmyEB is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 09:47 AM   #15
RED_EL_XR8
Banned
 
RED_EL_XR8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Not suffering Fools Gladly!!
Posts: 2,864
Default

What gets me with this debate is that it only ever seems to consider the engine. What about the rest of your car?

I see guys who would never consider driving until the engine has idled for a few minutes but out of the driveway and give the thing 11/10s, what about the auto or gearbox, the diff, brakes, suspension components all these things can be affected by temperature.

Lubrication takes time to become fully effective, so common sense would be to allow a brief idle at least till the engine is sitting comfrotable at idle RPM, and then gentle driving as you bring the whole car up to operating temperatures. 1000's of moving parts and 1000's tiny expansions going on.

But I guess its all depends on how long you are going to own the car, modern cars will generally survive a DGAF treatment pretty well for several years, and are suprisingly good at bringing them self up to steady idle etc. If you want longevity however, I'd recommend developing at least a mildy "mechanically sympathetic" approach. :monkes:
RED_EL_XR8 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 10:23 AM   #16
dogbreath_48
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
dogbreath_48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Croydon, VIC
Posts: 501
Default

Drive it. I don't get moving the split second after it starts, i wait long enough to get oil up to pressure etc (...and to put my seatbelt on...), then just drive gently...

-Stu
dogbreath_48 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 10:44 AM   #17
Pilch
X-Series Club Moderator
 
Pilch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 1,952
Default

I start the car and let it idle 5-10 seconds to allow oil pressure to get up to normal. Than drive normally, say 2200rpm absolute max until running temp is normal........than however I feel like driving :dr_Evil:

A contrast would be the way I warm up my 2-stroke RMX 250. Start it, put it in gear take off, flick off the choke, and cruise for a about a minute (up to 4000 rpm), than another minute with a few blasts (say 7000rpm, as there is no point flogging it right out). You should never let a 2-stroke moto idle on start as the piston warms up considerably quicker than the bore!!! Many people have let it idle/low revs to warm it up, and than revved it and seized the motor.........not uncommon at all.
__________________
PROJECT - '77 XC Falcon 351C - Click Here
DAILY - '05 Ford Territory
BIKE - '12 Suzuki GS 500
Pilch is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 10:56 AM   #18
neb
hibernating
 
neb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,135
Default

i let my car idle maybe for just 30 seconds and then drive fairly light on the throttle until its warm
neb is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 11:15 AM   #19
EA2BA
PM me if you want
 
EA2BA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pk Ranger Modding - QLD 👍
Posts: 7,498
Default

Start it, oil pressure is up, engine sounding normal, into reverse and down the drive it goes, drive it nice till temp increases.
__________________
Owner of first ever car to retrofit BA SSS - the EA2BA

Send me a PM if you want to know anything

2010 Ford Ranger PK High Rider (Auto) - 2011 Ford Fiesta (Auto)
EA2BA is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 11:36 AM   #20
BJ
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,377
Default

The NC Fairlaine. Start go :eclipsee_ .
The XC Start half a hour warm up with two or three mid size revs in between check oil press and temp, fuel press and water temp then off. :
BJ is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 11:49 AM   #21
XplosiveR6
Viper FG XR6 Turbo
 
XplosiveR6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 858
Default

oil pressure takes a whole 3 seconds to build up so that should not be a concern, i always just drive my car easy untill it gets to full operating temperature, the quicker it gets up to temperature the less wear on the engine.
XplosiveR6 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 12:17 PM   #22
LTDHO
The one and only
 
LTDHO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Carrum Downs, Victoria
Posts: 9,053
Default

If you start it as you get in
then put on your belt you will have enough oil pressure to back (drive) out of driveway. As you pull onto the road you will have full oil pressure.
__________________
1992 DC LTDHO 360rwkw built by me
Tuned by CVE Performance
Going of the rails on a crazy train
Other cars include Dynamic ED Sprint, Dynamic DL LTD, Sparkling Burgundy DL LTD, Yellow, Red & Blue XB sedan & Black XB Coupe
LTDHO is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 01:20 PM   #23
donno
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
donno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 691
Default

Wait for the lifters to stop making noise (about 20s) then baby it at light throttle and under 2000rpm until at normal operating temp.
__________________
93 ED Futura, I6, KKK500r Turbo, Dev 5 head, custom Surecam, TKO500, Lokka. 250rwkw@4000rpm, 9psi, and lots of boost taper.

Comming soon: T04Z, plenum, TrueTrac.
donno is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 02:08 PM   #24
Sox
RIP...
 
Sox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
Community Builder: In recognition of those who have helped build the AFF community. - Issue reason: As recommended by Ropcher. Personifies the spirit of AFF. 
Default

Start and drive immediately.

Warming up on idle is bad, much better to warm engine up under load, plus this also warms up the rest of the drivetrain.

Rick.
__________________
.
Oval Everywhere...
Sox is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 02:20 PM   #25
Walkinshaw
Two > One
 
Walkinshaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 7,063
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dansedgli
I drive mine off boost until the temp gets up to normal.
same lol!
__________________
1978 LTD - 408ci - 11.5@120.6mph -
2004 S4 - 4.2 - M6 - quattro -

Walkinshaw is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 04:27 PM   #26
sbutler
335 kw of goodness
 
sbutler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: south of Newcastle
Posts: 6,242
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smciner1
The XR6 I let warm up most times before taking it out. The GT I have to let warm up, it usually takes about 3 - 5 minutes before it decides it wants to idle by itself. Neither get driven hard when cold.
I think thats the key to all this, never flog a cold engine..... :
__________________
CAUTION!
STILL Contain's opinion's & fact's that may offend !!!
:



2012 GTP 213 black what was I thinking? NOW FOR SALE>>
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11439680
sbutler is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 05:30 PM   #27
Psycho Chicken
Banned
 
Psycho Chicken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South East Melbourne
Posts: 6,156
Default

Jump in, start it, put the seat belt in, change into my shoes if I'm knocking off work then go. Keep it below 2000 RPM until it's into the normal part of the guage. Don't see the point in warming up the engine then taking off with cold tranny and diff oil.....

Although I don't really give a toss anymore, engine and trans are coming out soon anyway. Seems to go harder when cold anyway!
Psycho Chicken is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 07:39 PM   #28
galaxy xr8
Giddy up.
 
galaxy xr8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kramerica Industries.
Posts: 15,637
Default

I just jump in a let them warm up for about a min or two and then take off, but the old wagon I warm up for 5-10 min's.
galaxy xr8 is online now   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 07:45 PM   #29
brenx
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
brenx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pakenham, Victoria
Posts: 6,983
Default

I always drive off lightly till I get engine temp in my XB. Usually less than 2-3 minutes. The EL and Hyundai I just drive as per normal, they are gutless anyway. No point thrashing them. Well there is a point. It's an excuse to buy another car

Brenden
__________________
74 XB Fairmont (street car) 11.07@123.02mph. 08 LV Ford Focus XR5 (daily).

Tuned by Hallam Performance
brenx is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2005, 08:12 PM   #30
SileNceR
02/90 EA II Fairmont
 
SileNceR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warrnambool, VIC
Posts: 713
Default

jump in, seatbelt, switch on, wait for oil pressure guage to go up, reverse up driveway and drive to work no more than maybe 3000rpm (light throttle tho)
get almost to work and its into warm.... then its sideways or so the last 500 metres to work...

pity i dont live further away, driving to work could be great fun
__________________
211RWKW EA
SileNceR is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 09:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL