Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Ford Australia Vehicles > Small and Mid Sized Cars > Mondeo

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 PM   #1
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I want to make-up a trailer plug with some resistors that will fool my 2012 Titanium electronics into thinking that a trailer is connected, and disable the rear parking sensors when I have my bike rack on.

- Does anyone know what value of resistor is required (and what wattage)? (that will also fool the car into thinking the bulbs are OK)

- Presumably a resistor is needed on each light circuit (ie tail, stop, left & right indicators)?

thanks

Ian

steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 01-04-2013, 11:00 PM   #2
AndyXR6T
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
AndyXR6T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 2,970
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I think a magnet disables it???
AndyXR6T is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 01-04-2013, 11:44 PM   #3
coasty
XH Ute fan
 
coasty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 461
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

You'll only need one on the reverse circuit. That's what they work off.
coasty is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 02:26 AM   #4
arronm
BA/F6 BF/F6 SSV/R TTG
 
arronm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Perth
Posts: 7,251
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

If they have a separate fuse you could pull it out, or some of the trailer plugs have a reed switch. Have you just tried to put a trailer plug into the socket.
__________________
BA BF FPV starter button repairs. PM me.


Nizpro equipped and Tuned by the BEST in the west
Xtreme Ford Tuning

479RwKw Fuel limited, more pumps and power too come.

F6#0507 & #0639 Pro racer and Tech expert

NIZPRO modifying falcons like Premcar can only dream of , see VIDEO below.
https://youtu.be/oa4IfguGQ-A
arronm is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 07:12 AM   #5
AndyXR6T
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
AndyXR6T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 2,970
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by arronm View Post
If they have a separate fuse you could pull it out, or some of the trailer plugs have a reed switch. Have you just tried to put a trailer plug into the socket.
Hence the magnet? ???
AndyXR6T is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 10:25 AM   #6
mac_man_luke
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
mac_man_luke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Australia
Posts: 2,149
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

If its similar to the new ranger (which wouldn't surprise me) you will need 120ohm 3 watt
__________________
2015 Toyota Landcruiser 79 V8 SC
mac_man_luke is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 07:28 PM   #7
foxtrot3
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
foxtrot3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,478
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Technical articles. 
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Hi. If the trailer socket is like the early ones a small magnet in the lid of the socket activates a reed switch when the lid is closed, this then allows the reverse sensors to operate. Opening the flap disables the reverse sensors. An ideal opportunity to put a brake/tail lamp on the bike rack and wire it to a trailer plug. That way when you plug it in it stops the sensors from working and because it is attached to the bike rack you wont loose the plug. Cheers MD
__________________


HI

I'M MICHAEL

2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON

light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote
foxtrot3 is online now   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #8
AndyXR6T
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
AndyXR6T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 2,970
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by foxtrot3 View Post
Hi. If the trailer socket is like the early ones a small magnet in the lid of the socket activates a reed switch when the lid is closed, this then allows the reverse sensors to operate. Opening the flap disables the reverse sensors. An ideal opportunity to put a brake/tail lamp on the bike rack and wire it to a trailer plug. That way when you plug it in it stops the sensors from working and because it is attached to the bike rack you wont loose the plug. Cheers MD
Magnet
AndyXR6T is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #9
coasty
XH Ute fan
 
coasty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 461
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Mitsubishi Pajeros have a plug with the magnets built into the plug. maybe try one of those?
coasty is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 08:20 PM   #10
foxtrot3
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
foxtrot3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,478
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Technical articles. 
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyXR6T View Post
Hence the magnet? ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyXR6T
Magnet
Hi Yes the socket has a magnet built in to the flap, When you open the flap the magnet moves away from the reed switch and turns OFF the sensors. YOU DO NOT NEED TO ADD A MAGNET. If the sensors dont work it is because the magnet has fallen out, you then replace the magnet in the flap to get the sensors working. Cheers MD
__________________


HI

I'M MICHAEL

2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON

light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote
foxtrot3 is online now   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
This user likes this post:
Old 02-04-2013, 08:53 PM   #11
Starlightblue
Regular Member
 
Starlightblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Adelaide hills
Posts: 271
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

get a block of rubber or something to hold the flap open, ie car thinks trailer on , ie no reverse sensors
__________________
Starlightblue is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-04-2013, 09:25 PM   #12
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I did try plugging-in my "7-pin flat-to-7-pin round" adapter, and that did not disable the rear parking sensors. I haven't had a close look for magnets and sensors in the flap of the socket, but from memory, it was all very flimsy in appearance and not something I would suspect has such a mechanism in it.

I did send an email to Ford, but they persist with their unhelpful stance of refusing to communicate with owners on technical matters and insist I contact a dealer service dept (which I will try, but with no great expectations of a quick satisfactory response).

Ian
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-04-2013, 10:48 PM   #13
foxtrot3
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
 
foxtrot3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,478
Tech Writer: Recognition for the technical writers of AFF - Issue reason: Technical articles. 
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Hi. You may find it has a non genuine or non factory reverse sensors or tow pack, either of which means it will not turn off when the flap is open. Narva make both 7 & 12 pin sockets with a reed switch but it would be cheaper just to put a switch in the power feed to the sensors and turn then on and off yourself. Cheers MD
__________________


HI

I'M MICHAEL

2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON

light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote
foxtrot3 is online now   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 07-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #14
commz
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

This is an interesting post!

My cars indicators are always flashing fast (all bulbs are normal and they're all fine). When they flash fast, it says "trailer indicator bulb fault" or something like that.

Could this mean that this reed switch has fallen out of my trailer plug cover?.. I have no idea what it looks like? :|
commz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 08-04-2013, 08:04 AM   #15
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I carefully inspected my trailer socket on the weekend, and I am convinced there is no magnet or reed switch. I can see some clips in the flap that could potentially hold a magnet, and a corresponding slot in the body where areed switch might go - but they are empty.

A reed switch is a long thin glass tube (maybe a few mm in diameter, and 10 or 15 mm long).

I suspect that since the Titanium version senses blown trailer globes, it might be using the fact that if at least one bulb is detected as an indication of a trailer present. I am trying to follow this through with my Ford dealer, and if I get to the bottom of it, I will post the result.
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 08-04-2013, 08:24 AM   #16
commz
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Just went and had a look at my trailer plug and there definitely isnt a reed switch in there (although there are grooves where one could be).

In the mean time, Ive fashioned a trailer plug that simulates bulbs (so my indicators dont flash fast). It just a male plug with two load resistors connected to it (one to left and one to right indicators). The thing is, now my reverse sensors dont work.

Is there a way to keep them on whilst the ghetto trailer plug is connected?
commz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 08-04-2013, 09:50 PM   #17
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

What value resistors did you use, and what wattage ?

My guess is that if the electronics detect any "globe", they will assume a trailer and disable the reversing sensors. Disabling the reversing sensor is my aim - whyat was your purpose in building the "ghetto plug"??
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 09-04-2013, 01:24 AM   #18
commz
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

I think it was a 50w 6ohm resistor. I built the ghetto plug so as to slow down my indicators (back to normal). Without it, the indicator lights flash fast and everytime i use the indicator, a message on screen says that a trailer turnlight is faulty.
I would like to re-enable my reverse sensors though..anyone know how?
commz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 09-04-2013, 07:53 AM   #19
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

The big mystery is why the system thinks you have a trailer attached in the first place. If my theory is correct, it is detecting some resistance on at least one globe connection.
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 11-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #20
commz
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 19
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Yeah, not sure how to go about it. Just using my ghetto plug in the meantime, but i lose out on rear parking sensors which is a bit of a bummer.
How are parking sensors enabled/disabled on this car (with a trailer connected)? If its something simple like the reed switch on the trailer plug, I could do soemthing to fix it.. otherwise Im screwed
commz is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 23-12-2013, 05:23 PM   #21
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

Thanks to mac_man_luke for putting me on the right track. He suggests 120 ohm 3W. I didn't have them in my junk box so tried 100 ohm 1W on the left and right indicators, and it worked. I calculate they should really be 1.5W, but so far they have survived due to the 50/50 duty cycle of the indicators. If you did use 120 ohm, 1W should suffice for them.
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 29-01-2014, 09:18 PM   #22
steerage250
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Default Re: requirements for a "fake trailer" plug

and another update - it needs a 3rd resistor on the stop/brake light circuit to stop it warning you of a blown stop light globe. I also went and bought some 120 ohm 1 watt resistors to replace the 100 ohm jobs I used originally, so I now have:

- 120 ohm 1 watt resistors on the left indicator, right indicator and stop/brake light circuits

Ian
steerage250 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 08:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL