Heater core replacement 2011 Focus

[el andrew]

Hey guys

Trying to help a friend sort a few issues on his 2011 Focus. Most of it is pretty straight forward (brake pads, engine mounts, etc) but it is losing coolant and Ford diagnosed a bad heater core. (I'll confirm that before I do anything in case there's a bad heater hose or something).

Does anyone know what's involved to change the heater core? Is it a dash out job in these cars? I'm used to my FG where there lots of info around on most jobs on the car but I'm having trouble finding anything for this.

I want to work out what's involved before he shells out for parts and I start taking his car apart.

Thanks

[Loris]

Had the same issue on my 2008 Focus, might be different to a 2011 but whole dash was taken out on mine by mechanic. Never goes back the same, it squeaks sometimes now.

[FERG_51]

Dash out doors off, big job. Never had a squeak or rattle if done properly.

[el andrew]

Thanks guys. I've done plenty of gauges, stereos, etc before and removed the dash in my previous BA when I parted that out, so am confident I can do it.

It is just that risk factor of snapping something etc on a big job when it is not your car. I'll have a chat to him and see how lucky he is feeling.

If anyone happens to know where there some instructions getting around that would be excellent!

[leakey]

OK, by the book, yes, a dash out job.

But it can be done without that.

I got my old leaking core without removing the dash. I did take out the driver's seat however as I'm not as flexible as I used to be!

When you get in to the foot well, you will see a metal bracket that holds the HVAC system in place. Unbolt it, and put it to one side.

The pipes that run off the back of the core go through the firewall. In a full dash out change over, you pull the core and pipes through the firewall after disconnecting the rubber tubes inside the engine bay.

But if you're up to it, you can leave the pipes in place, and cut through them, either with a dremmel tool, or with a small hack saw blade. Before you do this, make sure the engine is cool and you have clamped off the rubber tubes in the engine bay, to reduce coolant going all over your carpet.

Aim for about 2/3's between core and firewall. The 1/3 is closest to the core.

Once through, you can litterally slide the core out towards you with a bit of jiggling.

Once you have a new core, or a second hand one, lay the two together, and cut the pipes at the same position. Try not to get any metal shavings in the core.

Get a piece of rubber heater hose, just bigger than the tubes and slide it on to the 2/3's sticking out the fire wall. Put two stainless circle clamps on there too.

Put your new core in place, slide the hoses down, clamp them on.

You might want to get a small piece of rubber mat or something like that to act as a barrier if the clamps ever fail, as you dont want to be sprayed with hot water as you drive!

Put the metal bracket back in place and top up your fluids. Let the car run for a bit as there will be plenty of air bubbles.

So it's not for the faint hearted, but a lot more simple than a dash out job.

I did my LT over 4 years back now, and havent had any issues.

Best of luck with it.

[el andrew]

Haha wow that not a bad plan! I'll think that option through too.

So if I'm understanding correctly, the reason the dash comes out is so the heater core can be maneouvered enough so that the pipes through the firewall clear the cabin side of the firewall. By cutting the pipes, less front to back clearance is needed.

The other the thing I'll do (once I confirm it is the core) is get another couple of quotes as he only had a quote from Ford. If I can get a significantly cheaper quote than might impact the decision too, especially if I do the other things it needs myself.

[leakey]

On my BA Falcon, I do everything OEM, and to the letter of the workshop manual, and it stays in good working order. But as soon as the clear coat on my LT started to fade, I kinda gave up on OEM parts and just use what I can find on EBAY. having said that, it still goes like a rocket, and I put an XR5 interior in it which is sooo nice to drive in.

[el andrew]

Yeah I know what you mean - my FG Turbo gets the royal treatment with quality parts and oil changes every 5k!

Took the car for a drive and otherwise it seems in good shape with only a few minor things to sort.

It is dripping coolant from the floor near the drivers side rear door and the insulation material under the ICC is damp. Coolant must be running under the carpet half way down the car and exiting through a drain hole somewhere.

[leakey]

I'm not 100% sure on this, but with a dash out scenario, I think the aircon is also moved or removed, so may require a regas?

[XT UTE 68]

Tackling this job now with a 2012 Focus ST, there's about 3Litres of coolant in the carpet and underlay foam as that's how much extra coolant its needed. After taking out the seats and trims and removing the carpet its completely soaked in there. Heater core itself still to remove, hopefully the cutting trick will save some work and avoid pulling the dash.

[xr8gc]

XT UTE 68, How did you go? Have Ford Focus 2012 Trend and the heater matrix/core needs to come out. were you successful getting it out without ripping the whole dash apart?

[XT UTE 68]

Yep I have fixed this without pulling the dash, there is a O ring joiner in the pipes just above the heater and thats where the leak was. Its a stupid design with a crappy plastic clip that retains the O ring. I separated the O ring joiner, slipped a short bit of 19mm heater hose over the join and secured it with hose clamps either side, has been a pain to do as its a tight space to work in, not as easy as it sounds but its doable. Cost is a couple of hose clamps and a scrap of heater hose. Plus hours of labour pulling the interior, washing the carpet and underlay with hose and allowing it to dry. I'll put up some pics.

[XT UTE 68]

[XT UTE 68]

Disconnect battery, remove all seats, seatbelt lower bolt, unclip trims around the sides, undo bolts at rear of centre console lift up slightly, unclip sides off centre console, the carpet will lift out around the console, lift foams n underlay, poke hole in sillastic around drain in rear floor, hose out floor, undo steel bracket near the heater (was pain to put top bolts back in), undo the pipes, fit heater hose over pipes being sure to put clamps on first (this was painful), wash out floor and allow to dry, I ran the engine to operating temp before refitting everything. This all sounds easy but its taken a while and is a big job not for the faint hearted, it took days for the foam and underlay to dry. Allow a week to do.

[GTLEGEND]

I am sure the revised heater core for these now have the join on the engine bay side of the firewall.

[XT UTE 68]

Originally Posted by GTLEGEND

I am sure the revised heater core for these now have the join on the engine bay side of the firewall.

Yes I believe they do but ford wanted $600 for the new heatercore and the dash still needs to come out to get it in. The local dealer quoted $3000 to do that job, with a 3 week wait.