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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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12-11-2019, 12:30 PM | #1 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,480
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Posting up here as (a.) the Ranger sub-forum is kinda quiet and (b.) it seems more focused on PX-onwards models.
Mate has acquired a diesel Ranger that won't start, it almost runs on ether spray, rail pressure has not been measured over 3000PSI (limit of gauge to hand). All basic sensors check out OK by testing and substitution from a running vehicle. Dash reds as normal. As he has a fully running car with identical electrics, what is the coded set required for an electronics swap to rule out ECU failure? Just key and ECU, or ECU/cluster/BCM/key, or a combination inbetween? I've suggested he puts the non-runner's electronics into his known runner to see if it gets up and goes. I'm not at all close so this is all being conducted by remote control. Advice appreciated. |
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12-11-2019, 01:03 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,383
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For PJ/PK Rangers, you will need the ECU, key, key reader & the immobiliser module.
The idea of putting the non-running stuff into the good car is the better way to go. Dr Terry |
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12-11-2019, 01:23 PM | #3 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,480
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Cheers for that. I'm too conditioned to the Bosch/Valeo readers which are passive and had assumed those rules applied.
My other concern had been odometer overwriting, if that's not an issue it's quite a simple problem. |
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12-11-2019, 11:06 PM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,315
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Hi,
No problem with the odometer on PJ/PK. It isn't coded against anything. You can read the rail pressure by a scan tool, (such as Forscan) so no need for a physical gauge. For this engine you should be checking the timing belt. For example if the camshaft have jumped some teeth it will not run, and can collide valves. Has he checked compression? It may have jumped its belt and not have any. Another thing to check on the PJ/PK are relays in the driver's footwell. If the car has been wet at any time then these relays may be corroded. The immobilizer module may have been soaked and internally corroded. Check also that the fuel feeder pump is getting voltage. Cheers, |
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13-11-2019, 07:26 AM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,699
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Also check the fuel metering valve in the back of the high pressure pump.
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13-11-2019, 07:39 AM | #6 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,480
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Thank you both, I’ll be passing the information up the line (900-odd km).
I think he’s going to proceed with the “unknown electronics into known runner” first and if that runs fine, start looking harder at fuel supply and peripheral electrics. That it would catch and want to run on ether spray suggests the timing is probably alright. My greatest concern was his turning over of the engine with injectors unplugged, may have cooked their drivers. |
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13-11-2019, 10:47 AM | #7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,315
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Many possibilities..
Very random without a scan tool. By the way, the PJ/PK has its crank position sensor located at the transmission bell housing and doesn't run without it, so if someone have had the transmission out of the vehicle it is worth checking that sensor is still there and connected. |
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