Heat shield or not on extractors

[Cadge]

Hey guys

Just bought some pacemaker extractors for the Fairmont. After doing a little bit of research am confused as to if I need to put the heat shield back on over them or not? I've seen people say yes and no - any advice?

[Tiger57]

When I had the Pacemakers fitted to my XR6 the bloke who fitted them said not to fit a Heatshield. His reasoning was that it would hold to much heat near the extractors and crack the welds. Apparently Pacemaker have that problem and will void the Warranty if a Heatshield is fitted. So far I've done 70.000km with no problems. It even has the Gas Converter mounted about 2 inches away from the Primaries.

[uniacidz]

On my EL XR6. I put on a AU Series heatshield over my Pacemakers

Needed a bit of encouragement and such but fitted them perfectly

As for extracters, if you install them, make sure all intakes snorkel (au xr8), airboxes (two hole mod), airbox to throttle body piping, cat converters (200 cell metallic core) and exhaust are also done as well so there is no bottleneck





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[Cadge]

Ah, so not as easy as bolt on and away you go :P

I've already got the exhaust up and the others should be easy enough for me to get sorted. As for my original question, the two different responses is exactly what the rest of the Internet gives me ;P

[GXL078]

Originally Posted by Cadge

Ah, so not as easy as bolt on and away you go :P

I've already got the exhaust up and the others should be easy enough for me to get sorted. As for my original question, the two different responses is exactly what the rest of the Internet gives me ;P

You could get them ceramic coated. The Genie's I have were made to fit all the original parts with them (Clevo). Things like choke tubes and hot air riser. The sticker that came with them says "street legal performance".
As for your heat shield, I work on the theory that if Ford spent the money to put it there then it must be serving some purpose. Modifications are not always improvements. The 4 into 1's I had used to toast my toes so bad I had to fit insulation under the carpet.

[EB#]

For what it's worth I have been running the same set of ceramic coated Pacemaker headers, no heat shield, on my BA for over 6 years/160,000km.... no problems, still going great.

[macxr8]

In the EF/EL they used to melt the booster without a shield. I have run them in a AU with no shield and no probs

[GXL078]

Header manufacturers will always list lower under bonnet temperatures as one of their benefits. But then you hear about melted boosters and read instructions for eurathane steering couplings that say fit a heat shield if you have extractors. Makes it sound like marketing BS.
Disclaimer: I don't work on anything newer than a Cleveland.

[Spurious]

Years ago I had an XF with headers, the motor overheated & the overall engine bay temp' caused the accelerator cable to melt!

With that in mind, when I bought my AUII (with pace makers already fitted) I sliced some fuel hose length ways & encapsulated the acel' & kickdown cables, & topped it off by wrapping some cloth heat shield around both.
I have not fitted a factory heat shield to, or above the headers & I confess the engine bay remains a lot cooler than I would expect.

Also make sure the heat shield panel is still fitted to the under side of the bonnet as sometimes it'll cause the paint on top to crack if engine bay temp soars.

Make sure power steer hoses have a few inches clearance, as with any other components, battery positive cable, 02 censor plug/wiring etc. Just as a precaution.

Other than that, you shouldn't have any heat issues. I don't !

[Blue Shadow]

I have pacemakers on my AU2 xr8 and no heat sheild, It gets hot under the bonnet but nothing has melted. Found these on ebay and been thinking if trying them. What do you think?

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/2015-New-WR...309?nav=SEARCH

[.:4:.]

Consider this, paint them black with high temp paint. Reason being, black may absorb more radiant heat, however if its hotter then the ambient air it will dissapate heat faster then bare steel or silver. It kind of explains why black cars sitting in the sun get hotter when you jump into them as opposed to a white one, and why a lot of high temp items in race cars etc are black. A heat sheald is effectively a a heat sink. With enough air flow it will remove heat into the air, but without air flow, once it heats up to the temp of the heat source it will be of no help. Dunno how much air flows through the engine bay but its something to scratch your noggin.

[Blue Shadow]

Yeah, thats what I was thinking about the air flow. It gets blown away when driving and if stationary the fans kick in any way. Ive never had any issues with overheating or melting parts and the leads are close to the exhaust with heat sheilds so ill just leave it alone I think.

[zdenko]

I can't believe no one has pointed out the obvious here.

The heat shield is there to reduce the heat radiating up to the heads, air intakes, radiator hoses etc which in turn gives lower combustion temps which benefits efficiency and power.

Manufacturers don't just put them there for fun, if they didn't need to they would save the money.
Have a look at any proper race car(not a backyard job) and they will have heat reflectors or shields as well.

[Fyrestorm]

I put mine on over my lukey extractors. But I did it so no one notices they are there and it appears stock.

Tight fit, but also got the lpg converter mounted there too.

[DjRedcap]

I also just had pacemakers installed on my BA and am a little worried about melting hoses. I did put effort into painting and curing the extractors and cat but since they sit so close to the lpg factory converter makes me cringe. Hoses are tied back and fingers crossed no further issues. (May try to install heat shield, will keep an eye on it!)

[Uncle_Ken]

I would look at putting something there..

[DjRedcap]

Ok, cheers for the heads up mate.

Thinking maybe heat wrap the hoses and extractors... hopefully enough.

[foxtrot3]

Hi. The heat wrap is the worst product to use on a street car., as the wrap cools over night it absorbs moisture and holds it against the pipes making them rust from the outside. best things are ceramic coating (inside and outside the pipes followed by open pipes then a metal shield or barrier about 25mm clear of the pipe. Cheers MD

[DjRedcap]

Ah, duely noted. I'll make an attempt to refit the heat shield. I did VHT flameproof and cured the outside just not the inside. Thanks for the help all.

[DjRedcap]

Thanks for the previous help all, bit of an update for anyone interested.

I decided on buying some designer engineering titanium dry wrap for the extractors, water hoses and another can of VHT nu cast flame proof for the lpg converter. Maybe a bit of overkill but should solve any heat troubles with pacemaker extractors.

Did go to the effort of cutting, bending and installing old heat shield but in the end just looked ugly so some tidy wrap and curing should help. This coupled with K'N cold air intake and a 20% underdrive harmonic balancer with pulleys, damn, she feels like a new car. Fingers crossed and any opinions please feel free.

Cheers all!

[sgj66]

Ya can buy stick on heat shield if any spots worry you just stick it onto whatevers close and getting hot. Just not the pipes.

[DjRedcap]

Thanks mate,

pretty much what I'm going to do with the dry wrap but thanks for the input, i'll remember that one in future.

[mcfly94]

Nothing wrong with car builders ti wrap.

I use it on my 4" dump pipe.
Mild steel dump pipe ceramic coated by Ceramic Coat Australia (Pacemaker) inside and out with turbo ex is no where near enough to prevent melting things on a turbo setup.
Turbine is ceramic coated with a beanie on it to and no issues of eating through the coating, yes the moisture stains it but it dosent compromise the coating.

That being said if you have room for ally heat shields with a glass based heat liner with space to create a barrier; this will be far more effective and its the reason OEM does it this way.

Ti wrap is good for tight spaces, no doubt about it.

[DjRedcap]

Unfortunately its very tight. Factory converter sits about 10cm away from the closest extractor pipe so afraid this will have to do for now. I'll experiment over time. 👍