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24-12-2021, 11:57 AM | #1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 1
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So I'm desperately hoping someone can point me in the right direction or recommend someone that can help me out with ECU issues causing the car to go in to limp mode.
So I purchased a car from auction during lockdown and have had problems with the car going in to limp mode from the moment I got it home. I found an invoice from the previous owner which I have attached that shows the exact issue that Ford themselves couldn't fix. I paid $4700 for the car and it has 195000 on the clock. Please if anyone can tell me wether it's something worth fixing or not and if so could you possible recommend a decent mechanic that can actually sort the problem? Please any help would be gratefully appreciated. |
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24-12-2021, 02:29 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,288
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This is how it works.
If you have an engine with a piston sticking out the side of the block, the problem can be identified very quickly. The repair however will be rather expensive. In your case there is a problem, or a number of problems relating to a communication issue in your vehicle. Unlike the quick diagnosis in the above scenario, diagnosing the problem could take an extended amount of time, which could translate into a significant expense. The actual cost of the repair may be relatively cheap. So whether or not it's worth pursuing will depend on whether you can fix it yourself, or at least diagnose it, or pay someone else to do it. Whether you decide to do it, or get someone else to do it, the first step is the same. Connect to the DDL & see if there are any fault codes logged. You can see on the receipt you attached, the technician completed this process. Once you have any logged codes recorded, a diagnostic strategy can be developed. |
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24-12-2021, 04:12 PM | #3 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Goulburn NSW
Posts: 316
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Invest in a quality bluetooth OBD dongle, and buy the paid version of Forscan for your phone (around $10 on playstore)
I use an OBDLink for mine, similar to this - https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/ A lot of these fault codes reset when you turn the car off, so the ability to read and record a fault code is essential when chasing faults.
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2012 MC Mondeo LX TDCi Wagon - Highway Hack 392K km and counting - Now gone 😢 2008 Peugeot 308 HDi - Highway Hack II 2008 Citroen C4 HDi - Highway Hack III 2010 Peugeot 308 HDi SW - Shaggin Wagon II 2016 VDJ200R Landcruiser GX Wagon - TTD V8 Power ! 2017 Toyota RAV4 GX Wagon - Shopping trolley - Gone 2022 Volvo XC40 T4 Inscription - Shopping trolley II 2002 BMW R1150GS |
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24-12-2021, 05:18 PM | #4 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,386
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A couple of common possibilities and worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI_EiVqgSjM and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yop_WFCHvuc and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tm_y02fGPw and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feOpfrKeU5w
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 24-12-2021 at 05:30 PM. |
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25-12-2021, 08:31 AM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: NSW
Posts: 1,610
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Get it scanned for fault codes and have your battery tested is probably a good place to start
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