Help With Warranty Claims on my AU.

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 05:08 PM

I had my AUI serviced today and an inspection report done. Now I've only had the car two(2) weeks and in the report they found 3 out of 4 of the disc rotors are under the legal minimum and the forth is .3 of a mm off the min and can not be machined. The battery is faulty, the drive belt is craked, the coolant should have been flushed @ 100,000ks (I brought the car with 105,000ks OTC) and the leads need replacing and the EFI and throttle body need a clean. What can I claim on warranty? With the discs being under legal limit, the have sold me a defectible car, correct?
Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

Sourbastard · 02-02-2005, 05:26 PM

yeah if the brakes are under the legal min they are under warranty, near to the legal min is a no go for warranty repair. id say the battery would definately be under warranty. The drive belt maybe. The coolant most likely not and the leads maybe covered under the warranty. Throttle body clean most likely wont happen under warranty, but thats not that hard to do yourself I believe.

You didnt get the inspection done before you laid down your cash? When I bought me second hand EF from the yard I had the inspection done before i swapped one brass razoo, and had them repair everything that was dead. The things that were close to dead but not dead would not be repaired.

Sourbastard · 02-02-2005, 05:27 PM

BTW what yard did you purchase from?

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

BTW what yard did you purchase from?

Sherwood motors. I rang them today and I'm going down in the morning, the sales man said he'll talk it over with me then. Well at least they didn't say 'no sorry, can't help ya mate!' they are prepaired to look at the report.

loxxr6 · 02-02-2005, 06:10 PM

Batteries are normally only under warranty from the manufactuer for 12 months aren't they ? I know Holden ones are.

Dark Horse · 02-02-2005, 07:20 PM

Correct it is twelve months.

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 08:05 PM

I'm not realy worried about the battery, a battery can go any time after a few years. Its the disc rotors that are my main concern and the plug leads and EFI & Throttle body clean out, I've been telling em' for two weeks it was idling rough.

Sylox · 02-02-2005, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ay-You-Steve

Well at least they didn't say 'no sorry, can't help ya mate!'

That would be because your still in the 21day cooling off period.

Ring the department of fair trading in your state and find out what the cooling off period is for your situation. Its 21days here...

If you find out you do have the 21day cooling off period up your sleave go back in and politely explain to him that you want all the listed faults fixed or you will be handing the keys back to them as your still in the cooling off period. The work will get done. Just dont be a knob about it.

02-02-2005, 08:57 PM

Don't know what SA legislation says but Qld's is;

Licensed motor dealers must comply with the Property Agents and Motor Dealers Act 2000 which ensures that buyers are protected from dodgy dealers. The legislation includes:

guaranteed clear title to a vehicle;
statutory warranties which can be enforced if the vehicle is defective;
a one business day cooling-off period for used car sales; and
severe penalties for dealers who mislead purchasers.
The statutory warranty guarantees that the car is free from defects at the time of sale for the warranty period and that defects in the car reported during the warranty period be repaired free of charge.

Defects not covered include tyres, batteries, lights, radiator hoses, radios, tape decks, CD players, air bags and obvious defects in the paintwork or upholstery. Problems caused by buyer's misuse or neglect are not covered by the warranty.

There are two types of statutory warranty. A three month or 5,000km warranty (whichever happens first) covers a used car with an odometer reading of less than 160,000km and manufactured less than 10 years before the sale date.

A one month or 1,000km warranty (whichever happens first) covers a used car with an odometer reading of more than 160,000km or manufactured more than 10 years before the sale date.

Unresolved disputes between a buyer and a dealer about the warranty for a car can be taken to the Small Claims Tribunal for a binding decision.

If you sell some vehicles that do not require statutory warranties (motor cycles, caravans, commercial vehicles, vehicles sold for wrecking or vehicles being sold on consignment for a private seller) there should be a sign stating 'no statutory warranty' clearly displayed either near the price or on the windscreen of each vehicle.

If you only sell vehicles without warranties you don't have to put signs saying 'no statutory warranty' on the vehicles, but you do have to display a sign in a prominent position at the main entrance of the yard stating that none of the vehicles have a statutory warranty.

A one business day cooling-off period applies to used cars bought from a licensed dealer. This gives buyers until at least 5pm on the next business day to cancel the contract if they no longer want the car.

If they choose not to purchase the used car during the cooling-off period and want to get out of the contract, they must clearly state in writing that they do not want to buy the vehicle and give the letter to you before the end of the cooling-off period.

To take advantage of the cooling-off period, buyers must pay a small non-refundable deposit of up to $100. They have the right to take the car for a test drive or an independent mechanical inspection, but they cannot take the car away from the car yard for any other reason. Legally, once they take possession of the car, you can make them carry out the contract and buy the car.

As Sylox says, you should be able to get a run down from the appropriate dept in SA - should also be able to find it on the net somewhere.

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sylox

That would be because your still in the 21day cooling off period.

Ring the department of fair trading in your state and find out what the cooling off period is for your situation. Its 21days here...

If you find out you do have the 21day cooling off period up your sleave go back in and politely explain to him that you want all the listed faults fixed or you will be handing the keys back to them as your still in the cooling off period. The work will get done. Just dont be a knob about it.

I'll do that, thanks. I'll try not to be a knob, they are pretty good blokes there I must say.
If you can't trust a used car salesman, who can you trust??

:

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 09:00 PM

Cheers AUGhiaV8.

:

02-02-2005, 09:06 PM

Try here for SA... http://www.ocba.sa.gov.au/consumerad...car/index.html

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUGhiaV8

Try here for SA... http://www.ocba.sa.gov.au/consumerad...car/index.html

Thanks again. Got some good stuff off of there. As I said before, the guys at the yard are pretty cool & they are Ford fans and they advertise as a second hand Ford Dealer. Just needed some info just incase things got tight, then I'm prepaired.

loxxr6 · 02-02-2005, 09:43 PM

Sounds like you're on track now.

Go get em lol

Sourbastard · 02-02-2005, 10:11 PM

Steve! Sherwood motors on north east road? Dont tell me your another north eastern suburbs dweller like me. Chances are you prolly have seen me shoot past near dernancourt.

Ay-You-Steve · 02-02-2005, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

Steve! Sherwood motors on north east road? Dont tell me your another north eastern suburbs dweller like me. Chances are you prolly have seen me shoot past near dernancourt.

No I live in Salisbury North. I found the AU on the net through The Trading Post.

Sourbastard · 03-02-2005, 07:52 PM

How did you go steve?

Ay-You-Steve · 03-02-2005, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

How did you go steve?

They will replace the disc rotors only (3 out of 4), thats all they are liable for, and they are right, checked it out on the net. They will replace them with second hand ones and the law states they can :jerk: If I want new ones I have to pay the difference between s/hand and new.

:

Sourbastard · 03-02-2005, 08:39 PM

might be worthwhile to pay the difference between the 3 second hand rotors and 3 dba slotteds and pay for the fouth yourself, of course this is only if you have the cash available for it mate, but i have a distinct hatred of ford standard rotors lol

Ay-You-Steve · 03-02-2005, 08:49 PM

Thats only half the story. I was told the difference would be $50 per rotor X 3 + 1 new at full price and my 'share' would be $350, asked him twice to make sure I heard right the first time. Midas want about $360 for 4 new rotors + labour.....

DivHunter · 03-02-2005, 08:55 PM

Order from Hightech brakes in Melb and it will be cheaper even with postage

b2tf · 03-02-2005, 09:36 PM

Yeah, i would say its worth paying the difference. I refuse to let secondhand stuff (well, important stuff like rotors etc) near my car, let alone be used on it.

Ay-You-Steve · 04-02-2005, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by back2thefutura

Yeah, i would say its worth paying the difference. I refuse to let secondhand stuff (well, important stuff like rotors etc) near my car, let alone be used on it.

I will get new, but the yard wants $350 from me as my part of the costs. And Midas can do all 4 rotors new for about $360 inc labour...

:

Sourbastard · 04-02-2005, 02:22 PM

they are probably getting the second hand rotors dirt cheap, cause they are probably just as fookayed as the ones on there now. Granted i wouldnt trust midas as far as i could throw their franchise either.

If you can do it youself, you can buy dba slotted rotors from motor traders pretty cheaply and fit them.

I had my front rotors replaced by a a mechanic, but im going to try to do the rear ones myself when i work up the cash and the courage.

Ay-You-Steve · 04-02-2005, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourbastard

they are probably getting the second hand rotors dirt cheap, cause they are probably just as fookayed as the ones on there now. Granted i wouldnt trust midas as far as i could throw their franchise either.

If you can do it youself, you can buy dba slotted rotors from motor traders pretty cheaply and fit them.

I had my front rotors replaced by a a mechanic, but im going to try to do the rear ones myself when i work up the cash and the courage.

I have to have it done by a Professional to cover my three year warranty I brought with the AU. My brother in-law is a mechanic but its trying to get in to do it, he's very busy.

DivHunter · 04-02-2005, 03:05 PM

Source the rotors elsewhere and then get Midas to fit them, specify you DO NOT want the wheels put back on with a rattle gun.

Ay-You-Steve · 04-02-2005, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairmont99

specify you DO NOT want the wheels put back on with a rattle gun.

Why is that?

DivHunter · 04-02-2005, 03:17 PM

If they over/unevenly tighten them it can miss align the brakes and cause extra pad/disc wear. At least this is what my mechanic said after fitting mine by hand.

b2tf · 04-02-2005, 09:56 PM

Thats true, it can also damage the finish of your wheel nuts and the wheel itself if the guy working the guy isnt particularly good at it.

Decent places will do any mags by hand simply to avoid this (ive had a big chunk taken out of one of my mags from it before, demanded a replacement).

XRQTR · 04-02-2005, 11:22 PM

WTF???? Missalign the brakes????

NO rattle gun??

BY HAND even??? Dang 99 ur mechanic must be of the F1 variety lol.
guys at least the rattle gun has a preset tension, as good as ur mechanic is i dont think he can tension them with his hands. Generally its a good idea to start em off by hand just to ensure correct threading but id be finishing with the gun