best commuter

XR06T · 13-12-2006, 05:31 PM

im after some info because im thinking of getting a commuter early in the new year..

i was thinking
1. ex taxi
2. motorbike

or just drive the turbo..

my trip to work is probably ~400k's a week.
can anyone give me any idea how much fuel would be for the bike and ex taxi?

both would initially cost around 3k i rekon and there is insurance, rego, servicing etc to worry about but if either of them lasts me two years i rekon i would still come out on top rather than driving the t.

thoughts anyone??

blutura · 13-12-2006, 05:33 PM

Don't forget to factor in the cost of prosthetic limbs and rehabilitation if you get a bike.

That stuff's expensive!

XR06T · 13-12-2006, 05:36 PM

hmmmm..
i was thinking that too..
gotta factor in the chance of death with the bike..

:

bencat · 13-12-2006, 05:43 PM

well, I travel about the same to work and back as you, have the T and a triumph Speed Triple, the Tripple uses very little fuel, the T uses a tank a week, the bike uses 75% of a tank a week, bike holds $17 or so in a tank, car holds $70 or so....

Big problem is sleepy drivers on the way to work, there all on auto pilot so the commuter risk is considerably higher, let alone in the evening on the way home, people in a hurry etc...

All that said i'm over 40 and been on motorcycles since I was 12, still alive, all my limbs and faculties...

Remeber this, a cheapie commuter car is way cheaper than it's conterpart motorcycle, false economy riding a bike, I was a motorcycle mechanic for many years so I know all too well about the associated costs. Rego costs are almost the same, insurance is less than half (on the car), car parts cost 20% of what bike parts cost (if you can get them), and the first time you have to ride home in the pi$$ing rain you'll wish you bought the suzuki cino... Let alone taking a spill...

PS: wouldnt waste my time on an ex taxi as a commuter, defets the purpose, you won't save any real money on fuel, service costs are the same almost, I'd go for a cheap 4 banger and save some real money.

XR06T · 13-12-2006, 05:47 PM

thanks for the tips bencat..

i thought as much but wanted to hear others expierence so cheers.

next q, el ex taxi or little petrol car??

how much would 400k's cost me in lpg?

bencat · 13-12-2006, 05:50 PM

doh, ex taxi = lpg, good point...

**Mechan1k** · 13-12-2006, 05:53 PM

ex taxis can be high maintenance as you will be needing to fix a lot of things along the way ... and you might get one that runs like crap and uses a heap of LPG.

For a commuter vehicle ... I suggest the small hatchback type vehicle ... maneouvring in traffic is much easier ... and these vehicles are cheap to buy ... rego is cheaper due to size ... and insurance is cheap as well ... and usually run on the smell of an oily rag.

I'd suggest something along the lines of a Mirage/Lancer/Pulsar/Satria, etc.

My LPG ute uses 14.5L/100km metro ... so about 550km from 80L ($40 or thereabouts). But it is running quite well economically for what it is in metro ... some old taxis use double that.

eed-250 · 13-12-2006, 06:08 PM

cant go wrong with an injected Charade, Suzuki Swift or Suzuki Sherpa(700cc i think)!! Don't buy an EX-TAXI, like mechanic said, hi kms=lots more stuff going wrong. Definately get a small hatch, its a commuter it doesnt have to be your pride and joy :P

eed-250 · 13-12-2006, 06:09 PM

oh and isn't the train line going to be open soon?

**Mechan1k** · 13-12-2006, 06:10 PM

Actually the Charades from the mid-late 90s were a decent vehicle. Solid vehicle and decently strong motor ... cheap run-around

sgt_doofey · 13-12-2006, 09:52 PM

If you can find either an AU or EL on LPG that wasn't a taxi, then that might be a better choice?
I also travel about 400-500kms per week to get to the train station and back home again, plus other running around, in my EL. It uses LPG and it costs me roughly $35 per week. It's cheaper to run than any 4 cylinder car that I could possibly buy.
I bought it second hand when it had 47,000kms on the clock. It now has over 204,000kms and the only major work I have done is to replace the head at 192,000kms.
Insurance is cheap, I believe that I am paying about $26 per month. Helps that I live in a country area though...

dansedgli · 13-12-2006, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bencat

Remeber this, a cheapie commuter car is way cheaper than it's conterpart motorcycle, false economy riding a bike, I was a motorcycle mechanic for many years so I know all too well about the associated costs. Rego costs are almost the same, insurance is less than half (on the car), car parts cost 20% of what bike parts cost (if you can get them), and the first time you have to ride home in the pi$$ing rain you'll wish you bought the suzuki cino... Let alone taking a spill...

I disagree with the costs thing. Are you sure that isnt just because you ride a triumph?

Ive ridden a CBR250 to work for the last 3 years, spent bugger all on it. It is a work hack only. It costs $20 a week to go 350kms.

In 3 years Ive changed the oil 3 or 4 times, the fork seals twice(forks need rechroming), and the chain and sprockets once. Parts are not that expensive. It still runs fine and has clicked over 50,000kms. Its not a flash bike but it does the job.

Rego is $200 cheaper in Vic for a bike than a car. 3rd party insurance for my bike is a 3rd of the cost of 3rd party for my car.

Its cheaper for me to ride than it is to get public transport and I dont have to sit next to 4 million people or wait for the train. Train tickets are $60 a week, petrol is $20.

I would never drive a car into the city. I dont know how anyone can deal with waiting in traffic for so long.

**ebxr8240** · 13-12-2006, 10:02 PM

epends on finances ?? A new or near new car can be a better buy? Especially ones with small motors.. One good part about he smaller engined cars second hand? You can nearly gurantee that no young revhead has owned it....They wouldn't be seen dead in one...Little Honda's,Suzies,Toyota's etc...

XFshep · 13-12-2006, 10:25 PM

no for the love of god dont buy a hatch, get a friggin sedan, have a little dignity. :P

**Mechan1k** · 14-12-2006, 09:09 AM

Who cares ... it's a cheap work vehicle ... it comes down to practicality/costs more than anything. Sedans are heavier and use more fuel than hatches. Also being bigger in size usually as well.

14-12-2006, 09:27 AM

Yeah go a Charade, but make sure you go the 1.3L 4cyl big block, not the 3cyl 1.0L. They use about the same amount of fuel and the first hill you hit you'll be happy you got the 4cyl.

You should also be able to find a really good N13 or ok condition N14 Pulsar for 3-4k. They have a bit more room and are more "manly" of sorts.

**Mechan1k** · 14-12-2006, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackLS

Yeah go a Charade, but make sure you go the 1.3L 4cyl big block, not the 3cyl 1.0L. They use about the same amount of fuel and the first hill you hit you'll be happy you got the 4cyl.

Even the later 1.5L were a good vehicle as well.

14-12-2006, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

Even the later 1.5L were a good vehicle as well.

Pushing the 3k budget though

flappist · 14-12-2006, 09:43 AM

Buy a 1980s laser. They use bugger all fuel and are cheap to buy. I got one for $500 drove it as my "drunk car" for two years and sold it for $600.

1bad51 · 14-12-2006, 11:16 AM

mATE GET A SUZUKI ACROSS 250 GREAT COMUTER BIKE AND USE SOME OF THE SAVED MONEY ON DEFENCIVE RIDDING COURSE. yOU COULD JUST SELL THE TURBO AND A R1 OR GSXR 1000 AND NEVER LOOK BACK LOL 10sec 1/4 miles too

**Peuty** · 14-12-2006, 11:20 AM

Yeah a late eighties injected four banger would be the go, maybe a Telstar or something?

merlin · 14-12-2006, 11:26 AM

I have had both car and bike for 2 years now and can tell you there is no point getting a bike to save on fuel/use as a commuter UNLESS it is cheap second hand 250cc or under OR if you sell the car. Otherwise the reality is it does just not work out.

Personally I run both because I can, but I can tell you it does not make financial sense (but when does anything to do with automobiles?)

XR06T · 14-12-2006, 11:31 AM

i was lookin in the auto trader and those suzuki across 250's look alright, perfect commuter, but they were like 3.5k!!
i can buy alot of petrol for a 4 banger if i get one for 1000$..
will weigh up the options when it gets closer to the time.

i think over a year a 4 banger would be cheaper than public transport, and i spose you can take a car in winter too without worrying too much about crashing.

i would also have to get my moto licence too.. anyone know the $$ on that in wa??

merlin · 14-12-2006, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR06T

i was lookin in the auto trader and those suzuki across 250's look alright, perfect commuter, but they were like 3.5k!!
i can buy alot of petrol for a 4 banger if i get one for 1000$..
will weigh up the options when it gets closer to the time.

i think over a year a 4 banger would be cheaper than public transport, and i spose you can take a car in winter too without worrying too much about crashing.

i would also have to get my moto licence too.. anyone know the $$ on that in wa??

Suzuki Across has a very low fuel range - If you want a dirt cheap bullet-proof bike I would be looking at a Kawasaki GPX250 or a Kawasaki ZZR250 (same engine ZZR250 looks better but is more expensive). I used to have a ZZR250 just for commuting. Cost $2500 to buy (forget advertised prices), cost $15 to fill of which I would get anywhere from 300 to 500kms from, minimal maintenance ($20 worth of oil). $100 for a helmet and maybe $100 for a cheap jacket. Still though a cheap $1000 SMALL car would probably work out roughly the same. My advice to you would be if you are buying a bike just for the commute factor and not for the fun (and you have a free car park where you are going) then forget the bike and buy a cheap car.

Also I disagree regarding public transport - that would be the cheapest option when you factor in insurance, rego, fuel, maintenance, parking, depreciation and stress.

XR06T · 14-12-2006, 02:10 PM

public trans would be just over $40 a week for my trip..
i have free parking at my work anyway..

adding it up i spose public transport would marginally cheaper when you consider the car will still be worth something if and when i get rid of it..

another consideration is it takes 40 mins to get to work by car, and the bus trip would take at least an hour and a half one way, with a 1k walk..

i guess the small car is a goer...

again, thanks for all the input guys!

**Mechan1k** · 14-12-2006, 02:15 PM

Man ... I wish I lived that close to work.
Takes me nearly 1.5 hours to drive to work ... if i caught public transport ... it's take me near on 2.5 hours (including the 20 or so min drive to the nearest train station - end of the line).

Some people have it easy.

I just drive to work ... it's quicker for ... and there's no way I am waiting for a train at 4:30am in the middle of winter.

sarrge2001 · 14-12-2006, 04:30 PM

My EL on gas uses 17L/100km

And i paid 35.9 cpl to fill up today (10c off via the old shopper docket)

Grand total of $6.10 per 100 km

Same running cost as somthing that gets about 5l/100km on petrol.........

**Mechan1k** · 14-12-2006, 04:34 PM

God ... wish I could get LPG at 35.9c/L
A full tank would cost me $32 (not $40-45 is what it costs now).
And that works out to about $5/100km for me ... less sometimes.

4.9 EF Futura · 14-12-2006, 04:38 PM

Ex taxi for a commuter? You're kidding right... ? They're good cars for young bloke swho want to learn about repairing stuff... or for real revheads who are gonna do everything up.

Not an ideal choice for someone who wants trouble-free motoring monday to friday. That task, my friend, sounds like a job for a toyota.

1bad51 · 14-12-2006, 04:47 PM

One last thing you could drive an old banger to work? But the girls luv a bloke on a nice bike think about it on a rainy cold day drive the XR on good day blast along through the traffic in style!