Rear IRS bushes/rear end maintenance

[Peuty]

Hello AU Falcon friends

Have redone the entire front end of the XR8 with Superpro bushes, so now it's time to do the rear end. Now as I understand it, the IRS is a bit more of a complicated beast the the live axle cars, so I'm calling anyone who has done the upgrade before - does this kit have everything I need?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...item4d35e464d1

I'll be putting in a new swaybar as well, which I understand the half shafts have to come out to do. Is it worth getting new shafts as well. I understand that the hubs are attached to the shafts, but are sold as separate items. Do the lot? The hubs aren't making any noise, so should I just leave them?

Appreciate any advice.

[XF_Pilot]

Following with interest. I would love to put a superpro kit through my xr8. Did you do the front yourself? Use a press?

[Peuty]

Yeah a mate and I did it one Saturday. A press was used. Did balljoints/hubs/tie rob links and springs/shocks at the same time. Steers like a new car now.

[mif73]

Hi. I have not replaced all the bushes in the au irs but i have replaced the upper and lower outer spherical joints with the arms in situ. I used a high tensile bolt and nut with spacers etc and a rattle gun to pull the old joints out and pull the new ones in. Soak them with a spray on penetrant for 10 minutes before trying to remove them.
As for the rear sway bar I think you can loosen the front diff mount and drop it enough to pull the sway bar out. You may still have to remove one half shaft, not sure.
Good luck.

PS: The half shafts are splined and slide into the hub secured by a pacnut.
If rebuilding the hub use name brand bearings and make sure there are no score marks on the hub.

[NCII40]

Keen on this
my rear upper and lower controls are gone when i removed my half shafts for diff swap out
I want to do all my bushes + 30mm Sway + Joints
I have emailed sellers and nolathane about which bushes need press and if subframe is included but never get a response
Might try super pro

[mif73]

Guys. I have irs parts if you want to prepare them with new bushes etc. Cradle, upper and lower arms.
also have s1 front arms if needed.

let me know if you want them.

Free to pick up from Langwarrin, Vic

Cheers,
Andrew.

[mcfly94]

Do not use nolathane bushes they are the worst, they ruin the ride, and tear and butcher themselves out, superpro or rubber!
Cradle bush is not reproduced im 99% sure.

[Peuty]

mif, if you were local i'd snap them up today. Thanks for the offer though.

mcfly, agreed, SuperPro or nothing.

[SSD-85]

My upper & lower arm bushes are shagged. But I can't figure how to get them out. They're all loose & crumbly but the little shaft that bolt goes through wont come out.

[mif73]

Originally Posted by SSD-85

My upper & lower arm bushes are shagged. But I can't figure how to get them out. They're all loose & crumbly but the little shaft that bolt goes through wont come out.

The "little shaft" the bolt goes through is the inner part of the bush assembly, the outside of the bush body is a tube.
The outside part of the bush ( the tube) needs to be pulled out and back in by the outer tube as it is a tight press fit. It would have rusted too.
Refer to my earlier post about using high tensile bolts and sockets/ spacers to pull it out and press back in. Or use a hydraulic press.

ps: lubricate the bolt thread well.

[NCII40]

New Revised Kit

Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Kit

[mif73]

Originally Posted by NCII40

New Revised Kit

Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Kit

Just to clarify for others that the web link refers to a front susp bush.

PS: Nice avatar snapper head!

[Peuty]

Thanks for the info mif73.

Regarding the rear hubs/bearings, are they like the fronts where it is an all in one unit?

[mif73]

Originally Posted by Peuty

Thanks for the info mif73.

Regarding the rear hubs/bearings, are they like the fronts where it is an all in one unit?

Unfortunately the rears are a completely different beast.
There is a pac nut like the front but the hub can sometimes be tough to pull out and may need a hydraulic puller if the corrosion is bad.
the top or bottom upright joint bolt and hand brake cable and toe link ball joint needs to be removed to allow the hub to pull away from the half shaft.

Then the all bolts need to be removed to allow the upright and hub assembly to be removed together.

Then soak more penetrant and find a 20 to 50 tonne press to remove the hub from the bearing and upright assembly.
You can take your assembly to a workshop and ask them to press it out.
I took mine to a cv joint shop after soaking the assembly in penetrant and supplied new koyo bearings for him to re assemble .
He charged me $50 for labour on each side.

You may need to supply a new hub if the old one had even a minor score mark.
the hub itself forms part of the inner race and helps pre load the bearing. This is critical.

Scared yet??? :-)

[Maka]

Hi guys, slightly off topic, just wondering if you knew whats the latest & best fix for the AU irs rear shock top mount's? Mine are nearly stuffed & i'm looking at options atm. I know Sox was doing some good remade one's for a while, not sure were he's at with those at the moment?

I don't really want to turn the large washer over as that changes the suspension geometry & could wear out other components in the irs imo.

Hi mif73, i read your nice thread on a fix for this issue, if i can ask, how has that method held up over time? Are you still using that idea at all?

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated!

cheer's, Maka

[mif73]

Originally Posted by Maka

Hi guys, slightly off topic, just wondering if you knew whats the latest & best fix for the AU irs rear shock top mount's? Mine are nearly stuffed & i'm looking at options atm. I know Sox was doing some good remade one's for a while, not sure were he's at with those at the moment?

I don't really want to turn the large washer over as that changes the suspension geometry & could wear out other components in the irs imo.

Hi mif73, i read your nice thread on a fix for this issue, if i can ask, how has that method held up over time? Are you still using that idea at all?

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated!

cheer's, Maka

Hi Maka.
As you have stated, dont turn the top plate to face down. Its just all kinds of wrong.

As for my mod it is holding up ok though I dont drive it every day. I have probably only covered 8000km since the mod and I dont have the Konis on firm either so it will prelong the top mounts.
I may also add an au front strut top rubber drilled to fit under the top hat for reinforcement.

I did enquire briefly with Superpro and they may be able to rebond the mount with polyurethane, they just need a sample. So dont throw your old moumts out yet guys.

Cheers.

[Maka]

It would be real good if Superpro released a better & longer lasting mount asap, a fair few people would be lining up for them no doubt, stay on their case mif73 please!

I will have good look at the top mount & see what the go is, a new stock one will fail too eventually after fitting. That is not good lol & they are pretty rare to purchase new hey...

I like your idea mif73 & will take a close look at it, just not sure which way yet.

I wonder if another washer fabricated appropriately to be flipped upside down & to keep the stock geometry as before do the job? Just throwing it out there, not sure its possible?

cheer's Maka

[NCII40]

Originally Posted by mif73

Just to clarify for others that the web link refers to a front susp bush.

PS: Nice avatar snapper head!

should of checked that it was the Front bushes my bad

PS : hey mif73 do my dishes

[mif73]

Originally Posted by NCII40

should of checked that it was the Front bushes my bad

PS : hey mif73 do my dishes

haha classic.

Hit pay dirt with kdrt
:-)

[Peuty]

Sounds complicated. Thanks for the write up mate. If they aren't noisy, reckon it's best to leave the shafts and bearing alone? I have a fatter sway bar to put in the rear and i have read that the half shafts need removing - I take it that there would be no issue with taking them out, inspecting them and re-installing?

[mif73]

Originally Posted by Peuty

Sounds complicated. Thanks for the write up mate. If they aren't noisy, reckon it's best to leave the shafts and bearing alone? I have a fatter sway bar to put in the rear and i have read that the half shafts need removing - I take it that there would be no issue with taking them out, inspecting them and re-installing?

Hi Daniel.
You can also confirm the rear bearings condition by jacking up the rear wheel by the lower control arm with the park brake off.
Just grab the wheel top and bottom then push the top hand and pull the bottom, then swap.
do this for left and right side of the wheel too.
If the wheel bearing, susp joints and toe link etc are in good nick then there should be no noises or play when doing this test.
If there is noise or play then you will have to isolate the cause, suspension joints or bearing or both?
I used a dial indicator at different points to isolate play.
Spin the wheel while you are at it and have a listen.

Cheers,
Andrew.




As for the sway bar, as mentioned before you may only have to remove the front diff bolt and let the front of the diff drop to manipate the sway bar out and in.
You also may only have to remove one half shaft.
They can get a little sticky in the diff end as they have a spring clip. Oil may drip from the opening if shaft is removed.
If you do remove a shaft the check the condition of the CV joints for play and the wheel hub.

[Peuty]

Ah yep sorry, i missed that you had said only the front of the diff needs to come down.

Mate I really appreciate your assistance. I'll buy you a beer if you are ever in brisbane.

[mif73]

Originally Posted by Peuty

Ah yep sorry, i missed that you had said only the front of the diff needs to come down.

Mate I really appreciate your assistance. I'll buy you a beer if you are ever in brisbane.

Deal! :-)

[SVR73]

Did all the rear end with super pro bushes, new rose joints you name it plus blistering shocks and lovells super low springs
Got one set of nolathane on the front anti roll bar but wont buy any more of them as their too harsh so I've read

My car was totally transformed and I love it

Didn't cost that much either.

[Peuty]

What kit did you use SVR73? Did you accumulate the individual bushes separately?

When you say rose joint, what part of the assembly are you referring to?

[mcfly94]

Originally Posted by Peuty

What kit did you use SVR73? Did you accumulate the individual bushes separately?

When you say rose joint, what part of the assembly are you referring to?

More than likely outer control arm to stub

[mif73]

Originally Posted by Peuty

What kit did you use SVR73? Did you accumulate the individual bushes separately?

When you say rose joint, what part of the assembly are you referring to?

Hi Daniel.
I suppose he was refering to the outer joints which are kind of a rose joint (otherwise known as a heim joint).

In our application the outer joints are called spherical bushes which are similar to rose joints internally.

Cheers, Andrew.

PS: I might get some of those" blistering" shocks. :-)

[Peuty]

Ahh makes sense. So in other words, the kit I linked above definitely had everything I would need to upgrade th rear end. I had heard peoe mention the rear had a
Rose joint but I couldn't figure out how it fit into the equation.

[SVR73]

Sorry I meant bilstein shocks of course but my stupid iPad can't spell

My friend got all the parts
Did rear sway bar d link bushes in rear as well.

[mik]

looking forward to doing my henry at some stage down the track , i have to say i used the super pro bushes in the front end of my old lexus , i like em !