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Old 09-10-2006, 09:14 PM   #1
Cloud 9
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Default Crow cam

hey all

first just like 2 say hi seeing as im new, recentley bought a 99 au falcon forte, manual, tickford cold air intake, 2 1/2" exhaust, hi flow cat and extractors. lowered, 17" rims plus tintsm also heavy duty clutch. pickd her up 4 9 grand. might be some more mods not 100% sure tho. i think i got it all right, i don't know to much out of the ordinary so any help would b greatly aprciated.

seeing as plenty of work has been done iv been looking at getting a cam, once i got the money ofcourse. i'v been told crow cams are good and was looking at getting a stage 3, which aparently needs ecu tuning along with it. my mate rekons he can get em for round 490. just curious if they are a good buy and any feedback would b greatly apreciated.


Last edited by Cloud 9; 09-10-2006 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:08 PM   #2
TwistedEL
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I don't know what a cam is worth but the edit will set you back the better part of a grand, and that's if it's not dyno tuned
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:13 PM   #3
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Dont just look at crow cams, Its a good idea to also understand the specs and read through them. II havnt delt with crowcams before, but many have had good dealings with them, and are happy with what they got.

When they say they need "ECU Tuning" generaly, they mean you need an after-market ECU. Not the cheapest upgrade. I wouldnt suggest getting an ECU just to run a cam, unless your getting more done to the engine (ie. Forced Induction :-)~~~) *Drulez*...

ECU's can cost as little as $250 (For a self build MS-II, a little electrical knowledge required to build it, then install it, or a pre-built one for $450 then you still need to install it)... or as expensive as you like.

$490 is crowcams std pricing. Good thing is; they dont need shims (correct me if i am wrong). As they grind their cams new, hence the steep price
But other places (such as wadecams) do re-grinds primarily and do require shims And charge $120 for most grinds. ($220 or so, if you wish to buy outright, $120 if you trade in your old cam). Dont know if they deal with AU's or not.

What performance are you looking for?
And do you want to go turbo in the furure?

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Old 09-10-2006, 10:16 PM   #4
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the stage 3 is the race cam isn't it and a billet at that, i think your gonna need more than a Ecu, Valve springs, venier gear, if it is the race cam that thing is made to rev to 6500rpm! something a internally standard Au wont do.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:21 PM   #5
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jus looking for a bit more power and something to play around with, not going turbo. What are shims? and 250 dosent seem to steep if its what i need for the cam to work and will give a fair bit of power. or would it b wiser to look for a cam that dosent require a ecu upgrade
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:27 PM   #6
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how cluey are you on electronics? that $250 comes as like a jaycar kit, in pieces. not to mention the time building it tuning it and getting it wired in to your current loom.

for ecu work do yourself a favor and budget about 1400 at least for a flasher and a tune. its well worth it.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:29 PM   #7
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all depends where you like your power to be made and what most suits you. Wade dont offer anything for Au's. i spoke to Crow and they said they had 2 cams for an Au. one that would increase power by 6kw without touching the computer, and one increase of 20kw but needs computer. Have a look at www.jaysrpd.com.au
www.jimmockmotorsport.com
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:54 PM   #8
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i am fairly happy with my crow cam.. and will be better after it gets dyno tuned tomorrow!!
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:09 PM   #9
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geez 1400 is way out of budget for me wasnt expectin it 2 cost that much might hav 2 wait alot long than xpected, baboon let us know how it goes cause im pretty sure thats the cam i was looking at
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoesAu
the stage 3 is the race cam isn't it and a billet at that, i think your gonna need more than a Ecu, Valve springs, venier gear, if it is the race cam that thing is made to rev to 6500rpm! something a internally standard Au wont do.

i like how people call cams by their "stage" ... just name them by the part number, less confusion

all new cams are billet ground, compared to a reground which has plasma welded lobes.

i assume you are calling 2232550 the stage 3 cam, i have personally ran that cam in my car without ecu adjustment, standard valves and springs and vernier timing gear. Gaving said that some ECUs may have an issue with it after all.

As for reving an AU to 6500, i had mine up to 6300 and it saw the track every weekend for a year.

I personally would recommend a 2232549, a good cam for improved bottom and mid range torque and power, in combination with a vernier timing gear.
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:48 PM   #11
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I wasn't all that impressed with the 2232549 myself on my AU. I reckon they haven't done the development work on the AU and this cam is prbably better in the 2222549 for the e series. It still ran well 129rwkw and revved nicely but low end and idle were not good and thats with a Unichip. its not really for an auto without a chip but a manual if you enjoy the cammed low end might be ok. keep it above 4000 rpm and its great.

I would stay well under the 5700 rev limit if I were you too as these engines don't give peak power much above 5250 anyway with whatever cam. The hydraulic lifters will pump up solid before you get to 6500rpm for sure anyway.
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:00 PM   #12
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cloud9 if you want a good cam to bolt in your au ring jmm and get their streetfighter cam . it will be exspensive 590 for it and its a regrind so you'l need shims i think they supply them with the cam.you will also need a vernier gear to dial it in another 200.but it'l work well in your manual au with the mods you've got .i made 149rwk in my au with this cam and very simalar mods .
another option is ring gnd and ask for ther hammo spec cam this also works a treat . but i have only ran this cam with a ported head and back to back with the jmm cam it had a couple of kws more and a bit less torque .this cam loves to rev , wich is good for a manual. it is a billet cam and dose not require shims or vernier gear.which keeps it cheap i think they retail for 500 or so and you can bolt it in within an hour.
i don't know much about the crow gear but evilcheif knows his stuff when it comes to them.
hope this helps ,jake
sorry forgot to mention you'l need HD vale springs to run these cams , i think there around the 200 dollar mark.
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud 9
geez 1400 is way out of budget for me wasnt expectin it 2 cost that much might hav 2 wait alot long than xpected, baboon let us know how it goes cause im pretty sure thats the cam i was looking at
Going faster? = Money$$$$, lol


I think of mods as doing servicing, hehe
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:14 PM   #14
Cloud 9
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crow cam 2222546 was the cam i was actually looking at but now i might hav a look at the gear u recomended FS5 cheers. the 2222549 is said to b suited from ea-ed

Last edited by Cloud 9; 10-10-2006 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:39 PM   #15
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yeah cloud 9, my car is runninh sweet now after my dyno tune, i also got a flash lube kit today aswell.. will be fitting that tomorrow at work.
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Mods -transcooler, tickford intake, K&N pod filter, Pacemakers, 2.5 inch exhaust, Crow Cam,

1981 XD Fairmont 351 - 351 Cleveland, ARP bolts, flat top pistons, Stage 3 Dynotec cam, ported 2V heads with 4V valves, Roller Rockers, Weiand manifold, Mighty Demon, 1/2" fuel lines with blue Holley fuel pump, Crane hi-6 ignition, B&M megashifter, C4, hi-stall, shift kit, 3.77 Ford 9" LSD.

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Old 11-10-2006, 10:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbays
It still ran well 129rwkw and revved nicely but low end and idle were not good and thats with a Unichip.
Exact way mine acts right now.
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Old 25-05-2007, 06:35 PM   #17
sly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Axe
Exact way mine acts right now.
It will idle at 800 rpm, no lower according to Ron at Crow. Mine was shite at first with a Chiptorque, but improved after:

1. Fitting a vernier gear & getting the cam dialled-in correctly (needed 1.5deg advance)

2. Bypassing the "tuner" I dealt with originally and talking to Lachlan at Chiptorque. Turned out the tune I had was for a generic warm cam (not the 2232549 specifically) and a manual ECU (mine is auto).

Even after getting that fixed, it was still a bit doughy down low on gas & always smelled rich on petrol. Supposed to be 98 Octane tune but went best on 95 with no pinging.

Had to take cam & chip out as chip was interfering with the SmartShield immobiliser & killed one BEM. I think I might have finally found someone in Newie who can do a custom edit so I might give the cam another run if I can get good 98 & LPG tunes.
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