Td cortina. Need advice!

[75corty]

Hey guys im new to the forum! Really excited to share and find stuff out etc!!!!!

I bought recently a 1975 td L sedan cortina its 2l and ive got a few questions i was hoping someone with experience could poirnt me in the right direction.

i just recently over the last couple of years have learnt the basics of an engine. So really i dont know that much at all... Im on my p plates for another year and was tossing up whether to wait til then To throw a 302 windsor in it or keep the 2l engine. I have faith in the 2.0 but just not sure if spending money for a weber extractors camshaft etc would be worth it, like is there a chance id be disapointed? Has anyone worked a 2l engine? How is it? What mods did u do? Any hints? Costs?
I dont expect 1 person to answer all these but if anyone could answer any that would be great!
The other thing is with the 302 whats involved in modifcations for fitting the engine, do i have to change the firewall? 6 cyl bonnet? And what else would i have to buy, brakes and suspension etc?
Any other advice is truly appreciated. I dont really wAnt it to be a race/drag car, but just to the point where it throws u back in your seat a little! ;-)

Everyone around me is saying the 2l will be fine but i wanted your guys opinion too. Theres a huge upside to the 2l such as i happened to be able to get a manual gearbox tomorow for free! But i just dont wantto be dissapointed. Cheers guys and thanks for your help.

[75corty]

Oh and a couple of questions silly ones but yea...

I have been reading and im not sure what my engine is. I know its a 2l but is it what they call... a 'pinto' and what does pinto mean? Any other interesting things i wouldnt know about my 2l engine? Or even the corty itself???? Ill post pics as the interior is imaculate pretty nice for what i bough. It for im very happy. Cheers guys thanks so much.

[75corty]

Woops double post

[wicko]

Pinto is the name of the motor like a V8 Windsor or Cleveland - aside from Escorts, Cortina's Capris etc it carried over to the Sierra motor (YB - N/A or Turbo).

All I can say is how much do you want to spend and what do you want out of it (ie What are you using it for, how much power do you want). Dropping a V8 in can be done but it will cost a lot more and pose more problems then upgrading the 2L - If its a Road car I'd imagine the Engineers work would be a mine field - both in time, money and headaches.

Sierra motor can achieve good horsepower - use of fuel injection etc etc makes things easier. Then again there are trends to drop 4AGE motors and Rotary's into replace Pinto motors

[75corty]

Wow that was Incredibly fast thanks mate. Im not exactly sure how mich i do want to spend but i was going to just do it over time so i guess its not toooooo much of a problem. As i said, i would like it to throw me back in my seat a little im not a hoon but the ocasional track day and stuff would be nice to see performance. I really dont hAve an exact answer on power as i have never owned/driven over a 2l before thiugh i have been in my father inlaws 318 v8 valiant!!! I am leanin towards the 2l i think possibly. Thanks again for your reply mate.

[JimStone]

I have been playing around with these in Escorts for decades - the 2.0 OHC Pinto motor is a solid, reliable performer.

First steps in order (and rising cost) I would recommend:

1. Buy a copy of either or both "How to modify Ford 2.0 OHC engines" by David Vizard (THE bible on this enginge) and/or "How to power tune Ford 2.0 OHC and DOHC Engines'"by Des Hamill.
2. Electroinc ignition conversion - either complete dizzy replacement or simply fit a Petronix or simmilar module. Replace coil to suit and fit new spark plugs and leads. Check your earthing from engine to chassis and chssis to battery. These engines really need a good, clean, strong spark to get any power.
3. Remove 32/36 dgv Weber carb, fit 38 dgas - bolts straight on and goes from sequential opening throats to simultainious for improved throttle response and power,
4. fit extractors and 2" or 2.25" exhaust,
5. fit a 'towing' cam - these are cams that produce good low to mid range torque. Crow 26874 is a nice torquey cam that will liven things up a little pulling from below 2,000rpm through 6,500rpm and can be (just) run with either auto and manual gearboxes,
6. Overhaul head - good, reliable performance gains can be had with std valve diammeters particulalrly if staying with single carby setup. Improving flow around the valve seats and a simple back cut on std valves has a marked improvement in air flow,
7. Decide where you are going re overall power ad driveablity and rebuild bottom end - while crank is good for upto around 8,500rpm, the stock rods have a max continous reliable limit of 6,800rpm.

Stock these egines were around 90-100hp out of the factory (assuming yours is the High Compression version). simple mods as above can see you in the 150hp range. More detailed work can see thes motors in the 200hp range but driveability and reliablilty does suffer. If you want that sort of power a DOHC conversion or even a jap turbo may be a more reliable option.

Cheers

James

[allanv6gt]

If considering the V8 route, check with your local rego people about some of the hoops you need to jump thru to get it registered I believe some states are tightening up on what engine capacity increases can go into which body shells e.g. V8 into 4cyl Capri shells. A cheap phone call will give you a basic answer for your Cortina. (yay/nay, max capacity increase , etc.).

V8 path means:
Motor (of course) - extra $$ for rebuild?
Gearbox/clutch to match
Diff (as your 2Lt will be shredded in no time)
Brakes (to stop the ^$#*&$ thing !!)
Suspension - to handle the power, uprated springs (due to extra weight)
(? Chassis kit - to stop it twisting itself to death)
Exhaust - probably custom build, but certainly not $100 worth.
....and, and and.....
....... Allow $7-10K

Follow James' steps above as a starter. No point shelling out big bucks and getting bogged down in red tape for months/years when you would rather be driving it. These things take time, and your life priorities might change.

Join your local Ford/Cortina/Small Ford car club. Talk to members about what they have done, and what you have in mind. You'll find people will only be too glad to share the information (i.e. you won't be able to escape once started). Talk is cheap, just the conversation lubrication (read 'beers') can get expensive.

Check out car shows and talk to the owners.

Research, research, research......is cheap (and a bit of fun !!).
Don't rush in.

Just my 5c worth, after 20+ years of playing with Capris.......

[75corty]

Hey guys really appreciated the replies and sorry i havent been on in a bit. Well i am pretty sure im going to do the 2.0l as ofcourse i should be looking at fuel and rego aswell let alone the price of a v8 swap. Been talking to a guy down the road who races escorts with these 2l engines so there is a good resource. Worked out quite well as i just got a 4 speed and better extractors for it!! For free
Jim i have been looking at 45 weber carby on ebay is it worth going that big or is there a reason i shouldnt? Telling u know im really quite new to all this so forgive me but im doing my best to learn as fast as i can. So much appreciated.
Also how does the whole distributor thing go, as in what would i be looking for if i got one and whats the difference between the standard one and a petronix one for example? I guess it would be quite straight forward? Or is there more i should know...? Thanks very much guys. Any sites for parts i would need would be great to as im not sure where to look as of yet.

[JimStone]

Going twin 45 DCOE Webers really needs substantial engine work to make it worth while (need to spend lots of $$$$). Better bang for buck from fitting a 38DGAS to the standard manifold, will be good for up to 150 odd hp. If you are looking at a single 45 DCOE, don't - manifolds for these have horendous flow and you will get better performance, drivability and economy from rejetting the original stock 32/36DGV.

Petronix (or simmilar) is a module that mounts in the distributor and replaces the points http://www.pertronix.com.au/?gclid=C...FQlLpgodk2AAxg

[75corty]

Cool cheers makes sense. how do i go about getting better airflow through valves and stuff how does that work? Obviously i wouldnt do it myself but who would i take it to and what would i ask for? Or do i buy a racing head? Or what? Is this even a mod? I understand that the camshaft half does this? And is milling the head an option on these motors? Thanks guys

[JimStone]

Originally Posted by 75corty

Cool cheers makes sense. how do i go about getting better airflow through valves and stuff how does that work? Obviously i wouldnt do it myself but who would i take it to and what would i ask for? Or do i buy a racing head? Or what? Is this even a mod? I understand that the camshaft half does this? And is milling the head an option on these motors? Thanks guys

Originally Posted by JimStone

First steps in order (and rising cost) I would recommend:

1. Buy a copy of either or both "How to modify Ford 2.0 OHC engines" by David Vizard (THE bible on this enginge) and/or "How to power tune Ford 2.0 OHC and DOHC Engines'"by Des Hamill.

YOu are correct that the camshaft has a huge impact on perfromance, but headwork is the key to making these engines work. I can not stress enough that you need to read the relivant chapter/s in either of these books to understand what you need to do to get good power out of these engines. Based on what you research and decide your unltimate target is (and how many $$$$ you want to spend) you will be able to communicate to the person doing the head work exactly what you want done.

[75corty]

Ok thanks mate ill hunt down those books. I really appreicate the time u took to reply jim thanks very much. Thats pretty much all the help i need guys

thanks!!!!