MC Rear Discs and Pads

[V8kado]

Looking at replacing the rear discs and pads on the MC Mondeo Wagon. Any brand preference to purchase before I go out and get something I regret.

Ford quoted $356.22 for a pair of rear discs and $125 for pads both sides. Would rather not pay local Ford prices if I can get something else of better or equivalent quality at a cheaper price.

Looking at doing the swap over myself and notice you need to have a piston tool for the rear to wind them back in. Any tricks to do this without the tool, or anyone in the local Canberra region willing to borrow theirs?
Also is the Titanium discs the same size as all the other variants?

Cheers

[NZ XR6]

Are you sure the discs need replacing? Mine looked really worn but were actually well above the min. thickness.

I'll leave it others to advise you on what to buy. I bought some Remsa Ultra ceramic pads (European) but haven't fitted them yet. The rear pads seem expensive for some reason, despite how small they are!

I use one of those cube piston tools. They work fine as long as the pistons are in good condition.

[rondeo]

DIY MC REAR BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. version 2.

Apply the handbrake and remove the T50 disc securing screw.

Release the handrake.

With 10" adjustable spanner wind the handbrake spring back and remove the cable nipple from the lever.

Remove the cable with long nose pliers by squeezing the tabs on the plastic retaining ring and pulling on the cable (easier said than done, and the tabs are easily trashed, being very flimsy).

Remove the slide pin retaining bolt with a 13mm spanner.
Use a 15mm spanner to prevent the slide pin turning.

Remove the caliper and support it somewhere out of the way, not dangling from the hose. Remove the pads.

Use an 18" bar and 15mm socket to loosen the caliper mounting bracket bolts and then remove.

Remove the old guide shims, noting any difference between them.

Remove the disc and clean the hub with a brass wire brush.

Temporarily install the caliper mounting bracket and caliper.

Make provision for dealing with the brake fluid as discussed below.

Wind the piston back to the stop with a clockwise rewind tool (32mm pin centres) and close the bleed screw. The plate on my rewind tool needed shortening to 75mm to fit throught the caliper bracket.

Remove the caliper and support it out of the way by resting it as above.

Remove the caliper mounting bracket.

Remove clean and lubricate the guide pins with brake grease if required. (The Ford manual cautions against applying grease to any other component).

Instal the disc (T50 screw).

Instal new guide shims into the mounting bracket and instal the bracket (bolts 110 Nm) pads, caliper (bolts 35 Nm) and handbrake cable, having cleaned everything.

Press the brake pedal a few times to settle the pads.

Test, don't forget the road wheels (nuts 140 Nm).

NOTES

I fiound it easier to wind back the piston when it was installed in its usual place, ie bolted to the caliper bracket.

Brake fluid:

The concern is that particles might enter the ABS system.

A few ways to do this:

a) Clamp the brake hose closed and open the bleed screw with a tube to a container.

b) Apply pressure with a pressure bleeding device and open the bleed screw with a tube to a container. Caution: Do not exceed 14 psi, as per Ford manual.

c) Just loosen the bleed screw to a tube and container.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by V8kado

Looking at replacing the rear discs and pads on the MC Mondeo Wagon. Any brand preference to purchase before I go out and get something I regret.

Ford quoted $356.22 for a pair of rear discs and $125 for pads both sides. Would rather not pay local Ford prices if I can get something else of better or equivalent quality at a cheaper price.

Looking at doing the swap over myself and notice you need to have a piston tool for the rear to wind them back in. Any tricks to do this without the tool, or anyone in the local Canberra region willing to borrow theirs?
Also is the Titanium discs the same size as all the other variants?

Cheers

I bought discs and pads from Ford. The pads were Motorcraft and were a lot less dusty than the original Galfer pads.

No experience with DBA on the MC Mondeo.

From my experience with the wind back tool it could be difficult using long nose pliers to rewind the pistons.

My notes to self on the rear brakes are below in case anyone is interested. The wind back tool is clockwise with two pins at 32mm centres.

[V8kado]

Thanks
Stupid me, I had my wife come home from shopping the other day saying there is a strange noise coming from one of the rear wheels when I put my foot on the brakes!
I knew what it was straight away. Went outside and had a look, I ran out of pad on one of the discs. I think I have caught it pretty early where I could take the disc in to get it shaved back down flat again if that's the direction I end up going. It's only barely noticeable atm. Price to get it Machined smooth again, $50. The other option as mentioned is two brand new discs as the car has around 145,00km's

Re piston cube tool, they look pretty amazing. Local Repco has one in stock for $15.50. Hopefully they work well as the correct clamping tool is $60-$70. Presume you would use one with a 1/2'' or 3/4'' ratchet and extender, using muscles to push in as you turn clockwise!

[V8kado]

Originally Posted by rondeo

I bought discs and pads from Ford. The pads were Motorcraft and were a lot less dusty than the original Galfer pads.

No experience with DBA on the MC Mondeo.

From my experience with the wind back tool it could be difficult using long nose pliers to rewind the pistons.

My notes to self on the rear brakes are below in case anyone is interested. The wind back tool is clockwise with two pins at 32mm centres.

Thanks, they are some great instructions you've posted

[rondeo]

I bought rewind tool like this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Car-M...cAAOSw7U5Y-cCB

At the moment I can't see why the piston needs turning as well as pushing . . .

Anyway it worked.

Others on this forum have posted about imported ate discs etc.

[rondeo]

Drawing on p52 helps:

https://www.slideshare.net/motorteac...disc-chapter12

Also photo of cutaway:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Serv...rake-Calipers/

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by rondeo

At the moment I can't see why the piston needs turning as well as pushing . . .

you'll laugh at the simplicity behind the reasoning.

If it's just the circular piston cup type they're the older style and can simply be pushed inwards.

The other type with grooves or notches are the later version and need rotating because they typically have an integrated self adjusting park brake.

*Citation required

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by V8kado

Thanks
Stupid me, I had my wife come home from shopping the other day saying there is a strange noise coming from one of the rear wheels when I put my foot on the brakes!
I knew what it was straight away. Went outside and had a look, I ran out of pad on one of the discs. I think I have caught it pretty early where I could take the disc in to get it shaved back down flat again if that's the direction I end up going. It's only barely noticeable atm. Price to get it Machined smooth again, $50. The other option as mentioned is two brand new discs as the car has around 145,00km's

Re piston cube tool, they look pretty amazing. Local Repco has one in stock for $15.50. Hopefully they work well as the correct clamping tool is $60-$70. Presume you would use one with a 1/2'' or 3/4'' ratchet and extender, using muscles to push in as you turn clockwise!

At 145,000 km I'd expect that the brakes have already been done. The rear pads on my 2.3 petrol lasted 50,000 km! How long have you had the car?

All you're really doing with the tool is turning the piston. The mechanism then retracts it, so you only need to apply enough pressure to keep it engaged with the grooves. It would be easier with the dedicated tool though.

European cars have brake systems designed to work on their much higher speed motorways. The pads normally have a higher friction coefficient and resist fade, but the pads and discs wear faster. It's probably a good idea to use European pads rather than some Made in China brake piston protectors, but you should be able to save money on the discs.

[ope126]

Originally Posted by V8kado

Looking at replacing the rear discs and pads on the MC Mondeo Wagon. Any brand preference to purchase before I go out and get something I regret.

Ford quoted $356.22 for a pair of rear discs and $125 for pads both sides. Would rather not pay local Ford prices if I can get something else of better or equivalent quality at a cheaper price.

Looking at doing the swap over myself and notice you need to have a piston tool for the rear to wind them back in. Any tricks to do this without the tool, or anyone in the local Canberra region willing to borrow theirs?
Also is the Titanium discs the same size as all the other variants?

Cheers

Here was a thread that I started about the ATE Ceramic Pads / ATE Discs; https://fordforums.com.au/showthread...ght=ate+brakes

I hope this helps you also!

[Canyonero]

I had the rear pads and rotors replaced on my MC EcoBoost about 18 months ago. There wasn't enough meat on the rotors after machining. I use my mechanic, not the Ford dealer. I can't recall which aftermarket brand he used, but it was $400 for parts and labour. They work fine and there is a lot less dust now.

[V8kado]

Thanks all for your replies.
I ended up running out of time and got a local workshop to replace them. I'm a bit disappointed as I wanted to do this myself with quality items. I prepared for the job and bought some copper grease and rubber grease for the slides including the correct brake tool ready to get stuck into it but time and prior commitments took priority.

[NZ XR6]

Which discs and pads did they fit?

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