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Old 08-07-2005, 05:07 PM   #1
TIC-302
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Default Best Oil For Au 3 Xr8 220kw

Hi

I 'm using magnatec at the moment and after about 1000km's, most of the time when I start her (engine is hot) there is a low sounding rattle until the oil pressure comes up then she is fine. Anyone else has this problem.


Also, my XR8 sometimes just cracks but doesn't fire when the car is warm, it just cranks and cracks,then i stop cranking press the accelorator down 10mm then crank it, than she starts and naturally revs to about 2000RPM, and to make things worst that rattle sound is even worst at 2000rpm.

any ideals, I took at to ford to check it out they put the computer on it and it showed some coil faul, i don't thinks its related because she starts ok as soon as i stop and press the accelorator ! _

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Old 08-07-2005, 05:41 PM   #2
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I have just gone to Shell ultra plus , 15w40 for my T3, dumped the full synthetic Mobil1.
The differance is nothing short of great. No more synthetic for me.......

Dont know what the starting thing is??? :yeees:
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:51 PM   #3
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I used to get a rattling/tapping sound for ~10-20s, without fail after a cold startup and whenever the oil was older than about 5,000km. Didn't seem to matter what oil/filter combination I used it was always there.

A couple of months ago I put a new cam in the engine, cleaned all the lifters and added adjustable roller rockers. Haven't heard any sign of a noise yet and it's been over 5000km...

Coil problem would relate to your cranking/startup problem, but more than likely unrelated to the rattle.

Also, don't be fooled by oil guage sweeping up to full pressure. That guage is nothing more than a glorified 'idiot' light.
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:52 PM   #4
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what would you put in a au1 xr8 motor, ive bought some 10-30 today as thats what it takes?
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:54 PM   #5
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if u got a coil fault you may need that checked out, dodgy coil may not be getting enough spark when cranking, remember ur started motor pulls HEAPS of current, hence your interior lights dimming, and your dodgy coil struggling, therefore not starting properly? maybe? jus a thought..
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qwikcorty
what would you put in a au1 xr8 motor

about 10-12 pound boost...
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:03 PM   #7
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single gt40 au xr8 mmmm, 8psi boost 250+rwkw, one day maybe. Oil first, is 10-30 too thin for a 117km engine?
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:47 PM   #8
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Put whatever the books says - I know it's not a popular specification oil. Only ones I've been able to find is Shell Helix and one of the Casrtol's - not Magnatec though. Pretty sure it has to be a 15W40, or something - but check the book to make sure.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:14 PM   #9
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yep 15W40 is the recommended oil as per service book.

I also get that hard to start occasionally when its warm. If it takes more than 3 seconds of cranking to fire, i back off, wait a few secs and turn again, it starts straight away without touching the throttle.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:52 PM   #10
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Magnatec is a 10W40 oil. Castrol GTX3 is a 15W40. The Castrol site recommends GTX3 for an AU1, and GTX3 or Magnatec for the AU2 & 3.
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbutler
I have just gone to Shell ultra plus , 15w40 for my T3, dumped the full synthetic Mobil1.
The differance is nothing short of great. No more synthetic for me.......
Interesting. Could you expand on that Steve? Why the change?
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au-steve
about 10-12 pound boost...
lol....sounds good to me
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qwikcorty
what would you put in a au1 xr8 motor, ive bought some 10-30 today as thats what it takes?
Last couple of changes I have been using Castrol R 10w-60.

I would be lying through my teeth if I said I have noticed/felt any difference at all between any of the oils I have tried in my ute...
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xr8ute
Last couple of changes I have been using Castrol R 10w-60.

I would be lying through my teeth if I said I have noticed/felt any difference at all between any of the oils I have tried in my ute...
I believe you! LOL.
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 012
Interesting. Could you expand on that Steve? Why the change?
I have been involved in motor racing for 25 odd years now, & over that time have used all types of oil, in all types of motors, from 13500rpm superbike engines. To 202 HQ Holdens. When ever we used synthetic oil we had troubles. ranging from,
loosing oil pressure, to having no oil pressure after a few laps, to rockers failing, oil surge, bores glassing,
heres the BIG one, OIL BURNING !!:ect:

So as soon as the T3 ran out of warrenty, out went the Mobil 1 & in went the Shell ultra plus.
So Im not convinced that for these big old windsors,or any big V8, that synthetiic oil is in any way an advantige, apart from, "you can stretch the services out longer" & over long time you may save a little in petrol.
Im am at the moment helping a out in the saloon car, "Falcon" & GT performance car class "Holden GTS", they were having trouble oil problems, with engines failing all on synthetic oil, they changes to semi synthetic type of oil, Now have engines that have had NO problems at all since the change. Thats why I changed...

Remember this is what iv'e found after many years of being involved in motor racing. Ford only tell you what oil to run, depending on whos given them the best deal at the time, & nothing to do with which is the best for your car. Any good quality oil is ok for road cars. Thats why FPV, used & recommend Mobil1 for a while, & now use & recommend Castrol synthitic. Next week it could be Havoline, In 6months time it could be Penrite. It all comes down to who is offering the best deal, nothing more... :

Heres a thought::many a Bathurst race have been won without synthetic motor oil!! :
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:12 AM   #16
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Yeah, i might have to check this coil out, thanks
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:22 AM   #17
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I'd agree about the synthetic, I've also been involved in various forms of drag racing and bike racing, have always used mineral oils.

In fact it has always been mostly Penrite.

In a AU XR8, I'd use Penrite HPR10.

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Old 09-07-2005, 10:23 AM   #18
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I Like the Penrite HPR15 for the wagon. Its sensible price for good oil.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:19 PM   #19
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Thanks for that Steve. I asked as I chose to use Mobile 1 5w-50w. I went away from the Shell Semi-Synthetic after I noticed a slight tappet noise at cold start for 5 sec or so. With the Mobile 1 it doesn't happen at all. Did I notice a difference in performance? No. I'm not concerned with what will give me more performance, more so what is the best oil for the engines "health". Price is no problem, just want the best for reliable motoring.

When I had the AU1 XR8, the Shell Semi-Synthetic worked the best. But on the AU1 TS50, not so well. Maybe the SVO alloy heads on the TS50 has something to do with it?
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:12 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbays
I Like the Penrite HPR15 for the wagon. Its sensible price for good oil.
You should be using HPR10 in your AU Jon, they have tight clearances.

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Old 09-07-2005, 03:19 PM   #21
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Here's a link to some info on HPR10.
http://www.penrite.com.au/pispdf/HPR10.pdf
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:19 PM   #22
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i went with ur advice sox and just swapped the 10-30 that the shell book recomended to the hpr10, only $5 dearer too. What plugs do i run in it if i dont use the ngk iridiums?
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Old 09-07-2005, 04:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
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You should be using HPR10 in your AU Jon, they have tight clearances.

Rick.
Yes probably right Rick.

Next service I will change to HPR10 which seems to be getting the nod
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:04 PM   #24
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Just remember that these Windsor block's are the same that they used in the late 60's early 70's and from then on, nothing has changed muched, sure they now have EFi and modern technology but the block etc is still identical, and they didn't use full synthentic back then, I use the Shell Ultra+ as well and have no noise what so ever or problem's, I don't believe in using full synthetic as Ford reconmend, like other's have said they only use this to prolong service interval's, which is a no no.
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galaxy xr8
Just remember that these Windsor block's are the same that they used in the late 60's early 70's and from then on, nothing has changed muched, sure they now have EFi and modern technology but the block etc is still identical, and they didn't use full synthentic back then, I use the Shell Ultra+ as well and have no noise what so ever or problem's, I don't believe in using full synthetic as Ford reconmend, like other's have said they only use this to prolong service interval's, which is a no no.
You got it mate, Just change the oil more often. :
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Old 09-07-2005, 08:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbutler
heres the BIG one, OIL BURNING !!:ect:

Heres a thought::many a Bathurst race have been won without synthetic motor oil!! :
I agree with you on both counts! I use semi synthetic oil and lose a lot less. Was running Mobil 1 for a long time in a number of vehicles and finding it was so thin it was burning off.

Interesting note though, Mobil 1 used to be 10w50, then 10W40 before dropping to 5wsomething didn't it?
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Old 19-09-2017, 07:36 PM   #27
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Default Re: Best Oil For Au 3 Xr8 220kw

12 years or so since the last post and what is the current recommendation? An AU3 XR8 has come into my possession with 270km's on her and I'd like to know what people are using now.

Earlier in the thread people were recommending Shell Helix ultra. However the shell website now recommends Shell Helix XH8
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Old 19-09-2017, 07:44 PM   #28
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Default Re: Best Oil For Au 3 Xr8 220kw

Penrite HPR15
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Old 20-09-2017, 09:34 AM   #29
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Penrite HPR15
As above - have used this oil for a long time.
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Old 20-09-2017, 09:55 AM   #30
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Default Re: Best Oil For Au 3 Xr8 220kw

Had to dump the 10/40 synthetic from my 220 because it was burning it up.
Mineral 15/40 in there now.
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