free advice on the 83-87 telstar

[dirty hands]

just if i can help a newbie or other person stuck with a problem :newangel:
i can help with information or a how to do or something
if someone needs a second opinion on something about this model i can help
feel free to email me
knine000yahoo.com.au
oh i dont know anything about modifications or turbos :

[dirty hands]

mm dont run on unleaded to well i guess
but the heads can be modified
:ymca:
helped a few members out so far ..thats good

[meanbow]

hi there.
i just registered on here to see if anyone can help me with a problem i have on my 83 telstar 1.6 ghia with the 4 speed manual gearbox.i have just purchased the above mentioned car from a gentleman who has had the car for a while, and upon driving the car back home, i noticed the digital speedometer and revcounter were not registering, yet the analogue mileometer and odometer were still clocking up the miles. does anyone know where i can begin looking to recify this problem, as i wish to get this car back to original and full operational status and show it off a bit.
there's just one thing i'd best mention first tho, both myself and the car DO NOT live in austrailia, the car was imported to the U.K, so don't go saying try this place in.... because i wont be able to sorry

[dirty hands]

thats an intresting one are you any
good at auto electrics
you need to check the voltage
but if the std speedo is working then i would say the other has been disconnected or its a fuse
the digital isnt in the stock australian telstar
mazda 626 and ford telstar are the same over here for that year
you may have to take the instrument cluster out to have a good look
i dont have any wiring diagramms and i didnt see any uk ford forums for you to go to after a web search
ill look around see what i can find out :

[meanbow]

i'm not too good on auto electrics, but i talked to the prevoius owner, and he said something interesting...which i'm yet to check out.
he told me that if you run the car for 20 minutes, the dashboard starts working again and all the digital dials register, as he claims that there's a faulty diode somewhere on the dashboard rear panel that starts working again when warm. can anyone confirm this piece of info, as i can then take it to an auto electrician for rectification.

[dirty hands]

the back of the dash is a printed circuit no sign of any diode
where the wiring connection goes into the printed circuit it can rub off the copper contact thus giving you no circuit /contact

recheck all the fusable links and clean the fuses at each end and the
contacts

looks like it might be a faulty connection in one of the wiring loom connectors
a dry connection is possible
spray the connections with a bit of wd 40 or similar

not to hard to remove the instrument cluster to have a look before taking your car to an auto electician

my australian wiring doesnt show your type of dash so i cant help with wire colour

[meanbow]

i've pulled the dash out on the car and had a look behind it, checked all the connections to it,sprayed everything in WD40 and it still doesn't work properly. the speedo drive cable is intact, and all fuses are fine.
have i overlooked something, or is there a sensor drive somewhere on the gearbox that may be at fault.
i hate having no plans or manual to refer to, it's like flying blind in a snowstorm

[dirty hands]

time to take it to an auto electrician cant help you from here on out:

[deleese]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

just if i can help a newbie or other person stuck with a problem :newangel:
i can help with information or a how to do or something
if someone needs a second opinion on something about this model i can help
feel free to email me
knine000yahoo.com.au
oh i dont know anything about modifications or turbos :

I have an '88 TX5 ghia - now leaking oil heavily from around timing cover seal area. Hubby dreading the job of repairing - any idea whether the motor has to come out or can the job be done in car - not much room under the bonnet. Any idea of the cost involved - probably have to replace timing belt etc. Good little car other than that.
Deleese

[dirty hands]

no the engine doesnt have to come out
i have done the job myself
i can email you the 4 pages with diagramms of how to do if needed

Repco fpr the timing belt and seal prob around $100 but not sure of Maryborough prices
This work is usually done at a cam timing belt replacement if it has done more than 50.000 km by my book
you work with the tyre off mainly and the splash guard
Just a few tricks to watch out for
all the plastic covers of the timing belt come off
now the timing belt has to be removed and then the lower crank shaft sprocket which is on a key way
if you move the cam or the timing belt sprocket during the replacement of the seal one notch you are in big trouble (I forgot and was out by one notch and my car didnt start because the valve timing was out)
make sure no 1 cyl is at TDC mark the timing belt in its direction of rotation if you are using the old timing belt
you must mark carefully the position of TDC FOR BOTH the top cam point and the belt position on the lower crankshaft sproket before removal -i use fingernail polish - mark the belt tooth to the cam notches precisely
and its a few hours work but no special tools
some sockets , rags. patience a rattle gun helps but my pully wheel just came off easy

[dirty hands]

remove the plastic covers and see which seal is leaking top cam shaft seal
or the lower pully seal both times the timing belt has to come off
as post above

the plastic covers had 7 screws may be 8 or 10 mm small socket was required to take them off
Still remove the tyre and the splash guard in the mudguard to get a better look at the bottom seal ok hope that helps
I was hoping it would just be the tappet cover leaking :

[EB Pete]

hey man hope you can help with this. me olds 87 teltsa blew the head and we have replaced it all. just have to do the timing but when we turn the key to stage 2 the starter motor kicks in. any help would be great thanks.

pete

[telstar85AS]

G'day,

How hard is it to change over an ignition coil in an 85 AS telstar tx5. Are there any little tricks or is it just straight forward. And do you know of anywhere in brisbane that would give me a resonable price on one.

cheers

[dirty hands]

not a problem mark what wires that come of the positive terminal
mark any wires coming off the negative
the distributor wire to the coil is the centre one

just make sure the coil you buy is the same one is marked to be used with a resistor and one is not
buy the same one that as is fitted already to your car
if the coil is in a bracket with a screw holding it in undo the screw or undo the bolts holding the bracket to the body

just make sure the positive wires go back onto the positive point on the coil
and the negative to the negative
no tricks in doing the job your self
price supa cheap or repco is all about the same

[dirty hands]

starter working in stage 2 it prob a new ign required or one from a wrecker

if the starter motor wont turn over i think its either the solenoid or the battery terminals or ignition i need more information
is the earth strap done up properly ?

when i did my head
I did the wrong thing i had to call racq and they told me i had the timing belt out one notch

[dirty hands]

Cant help you with information about the ignition never had a problem with mine
Cant tell you how to remove it either
nothing in my suppliment section either
if i do get some info i will pm you

[telstar85AS]

Cheers, i got to supercheap tonight but they didn't stock the right one, so it looks like a weekend job and a trip to repco.
Thanks for the tips.

[EB Pete]

about the starter motor kicking in on stage 2 we have worked out it is not the ignition but a short (we think). any ideas?

[dirty hands]

ok call me dumb where is southbrook
I only have the australian wiring diagrame and information
What else works when the ignition is at stage 2
If you think its a short look in behind the fuse box and also the thermatic fan
if one is fitted what is the radio doing ?

Also get in and look at all the wires to the starter from the ignition

I will have a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you
on to the wiring diagramms for the ignition circuit

Might have to look at the wires to the starter and the starter itself
just great i cant email you !!!: yo better pm me

[dirty hands]

well all my ign system diagrams show ign goes to battery with 2 wires running through a inline fusable link
one goes to the control box through a fuse the last one goes to the cooling fan of the radiator if your not blowing fuses or melting wiring it comes back to the ignition sorry i cant be of more help
oh one wiring diagrame i have includes the wires as mentioned but also a white green going to neutral safety switch from the ignition

[dirty hands]

WIring diagramme for your ignition problem
you just need a magnifying glass
Isee you are an electrician hope it helps

if I only knew about the advanced mode option of images before

now I have to get the image size right

I can post how to does .thats great ..duh :

[dirty hands]

attachment is the fuse box layout
due to the download restrictions I cant make it any bigger ..sorry
If someone can help me out with advice on that it would help
If you can try to move it to a document viewer where you can magnify the document

Also I found you cant run a leaded engine with auto on pure unleaded
even with timing and carby adjustments
I tried all kinds of different settings
So the lead addative is required or a modification to the valves and valve seats is required and if you can grab an unleaded carby that fits
anyone who has succeded in doing so please post

[dirty hands]

just a few more helpfull bits of information :
firing order is 1-3-4-2
plug gap .8mm
inlet and exhaust valve clearence hot .30mm
idle when hot -manual rpm 800-850--automatic 900-950
timing 6 deg BTDC
with the automatic there is a metal canister looking thing on it -- that sometimes fills with auto oil and needs to be replaced usually the cause of most problems with an auto
with a gasket kit the nm torque settings are on the packet so i wont post them

[dirty hands]

Telstars are prone to electrical problems so i hope i have covered some of the common questions asked

I dont have a wiring diagramme for this models radio
If some one has one please post it up for everyone

any other problems pm me :

[telstar85AS]

Ok my need an idea or two.

Been trying to get my 85 telstar AS TX5 to be a little more reliable.
Every now and then it doesn't wanna turn over and start. asked a few people for some help but they keep coming up with different answers which go nowhere.
Firstly the problem. It doesn't like to start every time. When it does start the revs like to every now and then jump up 300 - 400 rpm very quickly then die off the same amount very quickly. When I’m accelerating it does this again but sometimes when the revs are dropping down again it doesn’t stop where it started but lets the revs drop even lower, sometimes low enough to stall the engine. Then I have to roll to the side of the road and start the car again.

Been told to get a new battery and new ignition module but they just fixed it for about 1 day each. Then I notice the ignition coil was throwing a spark when the revs jumped and was informed that a new coil would fix it. So I got a new coil but once again it worked for a day then started up with its old problems.

The thought so far have been that it’s electrical because when the revs jump you can’t hear the engine really jump but instead you feel it hiccup and try and loose its revs.

Anyone got any ideas what it could be?

[dirty hands]

Apart from the usual petrol evaporation problem the fuel system a telstar has -where once it gets hot the fuel turns into vapor and stops and wont start again while driving or stop starting ( fuel pump and carby both empty )
not much you can do about the problem either

The roadside breakdown service put a cold wet rag around the carby to get her going again (so many times )had to crank for ages

so carry water and a rag and if you can get a see through fuel filter so you can see if the fuel is pumping up

the fuel pump may stick internally as well causing the same problem

I assume you already checked the choke was working if not the butterfly might not be open eneough or closing on acceleration

A carby gasket may have a leak and is sucking in more air in than it should through the sections that come apart

Icame accros the gasket problem by accident the car would loose reves
I had to stop the car she started straight away then up the road she would die again
Pulled the carby apart and the top carby gasket had broken on one thread
try to retighten the carby screws and go for a run
I assume you already changed the fuel filter and all the stuff I did
I was going to put a longer fuel line and insulate it from the heat better in so it kept it away from the engine but didnt solve the problem on very hot days

[telstar85AS]

Cheers.
I have a see through fuel filter so i'll have a look.
Choke is working fine. It's just been for a major service so the filters and all that are new.
I'll give the carby a check over too. Thank for your help.

[dirty hands]

you mentioned that the car wont start at all sometimes
thats a starter motor solenoid problem if you replaced tha battery and it only clicks or wont turn over

you did all the electrical was the dissy cap replaced as well ?

remember the rule cars need electrical- fuel - combustion to run

the carbys are a real pain twin throat primary and secondary stage
double butterfly on the bottom
they have vaccume devices and electrical solenoids( sorry no specifictions on that ) any which may have a fault or leak either they work or they dont
typical ford !

when your checking over the carby - look at every vaccume line in and out of the intake manifold make sure they seal well and are not heat effected
the float sight glass built into the carby should have a dot make sure the fuel level is up to the dot

my manual has 6 pages on how to overhaul it - dont really want to have to do that at all

the fuel pump is a throw away item probably costs a bit so dont replace that until you are sure thats the problem

[telstar85AS]

Just had a poke around in there.
Nothing jumped out at me with the carby. but then again i don't know all that much about it and just poked and proded at the butterfly valves.
i did notice one of the lines going to the manifold was a bit perished and may not be sealing fully but thats about it.
Dissy cap is next in-line and probably will happen this week. Heard a strange popping sound (maybe like a spark being thrown) inside it. and the popping sound was inline / at the same time with the revs jumping and droping. little bit of dodgey/old wiring around there too. if that doesn't work then it will be a look at the started motor. Then if there's still a problem i'll probably get my hands on a manual and worry about the carby a bit more.
Thanks a lot for all your help. it's been great.

[dirty hands]

hop out at night in the dark (has to have no light at all)
raise the bonnet then start the car
if there is any electrical stuff you will ]
see it light up like a fire cracker or fire works
if its all dark then we need to move on to something else :1syellow1