Brake Pedal and bleading brakes

Paul m · 30-09-2005, 02:39 PM

Hi,

Not 100% happy with the feel of my brake pedal at the moment, when the car is off I can never get it solid when pump it up, there is always a bit of free travel. We have tried to blead the brakes a number of time and the results vary. We have been bleading the brakes in the following order, RL, RR, FR, FL. Can someone please tell me if this is correct.

Also does anyone have an electronic copy of the Ford Service/Workshop manual, or can send me a copy of the brake bleading section.

The car is an AU III UTE, with DBA slotted rotors and Feroda Formula pads all-round.

Thanks
Paul

**Mechan1k** · 30-09-2005, 04:06 PM

You doing it the manual way .. or with the proper bleeding tool???
Best results are with the bleeding tool though.

Chippar · 01-10-2005, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

You doing it the manual way .. or with the proper bleeding tool???
Best results are with the bleeding tool though.

Hi Machan1k, what is the "bleeding tool"? Is this something new? I've only ever used a hose with a non-return valve placed over the brake nipples and discharging old fluid into a glass jar.

Please tell me if there is something more modern that I can use as my brake fluid is due to be changed soon.

Chippy.

EvilChief · 01-10-2005, 10:34 AM

basically its the same tool as what u r using, but it has a hand pump on the end, which sucks the brake fluid through rather than you pushing it through with the brake pedal.

10 bucks from supercheap

Steve_T · 01-10-2005, 09:01 PM

I also have an AUIII ute. Should bleed from furthest point (from master cylinder) first. I did RR, RL, FL, FR on mine. Having ABS complicates things - if you have air in your system between the modulator and the slave cylinders then you can bleed it out, but if you have air anywhere between the master cylinder and the modulator, you won't be able to bleed it through the modulator without a suitable diags or code-scanning tool to plug into the ECU and manually cycle the modulator as you bleed.

Steve.

12 · 01-10-2005, 10:00 PM

I've heard something about leaving the ignition key on IGN when changing brake pads, or when bleeding the brake fluid on a AU with ABS. Is this correct and why?

Steve_T · 02-10-2005, 01:11 AM

Nah, never heard of that. There'd be no reason to do that. The only diff with ABS systems is you can't get any air in the system 'pre-modulator' - if you do you'll just have to do a 'service bleed' with the diag tool like I said above. Otherwise just bleed and service as normal.

Paul m · 04-10-2005, 11:53 AM

Thanks for the replies, it sounds like there might be air before the ABS unit. I can get a scantool :1syellow1 .But does anyone have the factory workshop manual for the AUIII's. When I hooked it up before it said to read the it first.

Paul

Steve_T · 04-10-2005, 11:21 PM

I have a manual, but no way to scan it in to the computer or anything ATM. I can tell you a few things from it though. The bleed process it describes is nothing unusual, but here are a few notes:

The order in which you bleed the slaves is the furthest away (brake line length) first - so as I have described above. The level in the master resevoir should be checked by looking at the marks from the right hand side, and the cap should be fitted so the lettering is the right way up when viewed from the RHS also.

It's a general brake bleeding tip, but as the manual mentions it I will too - don't pump the pedal when bleeding (if doing manually). Bleeding procedure is standard for all four wheels. Then there are two more steps which you should do if you are doing a full system bleed. After doing the four wheel calipers, if you have cruise control, partially unscrew the cruise switch at the master cylinder until the o-ring is clear - depress brake pedal slowly all the way down - tighten up cruise switch - slowly release brake pedal - wait 5 secs. - pump pedal 3 times - then repeat this cruise switch procedure 4 more times. Then you have to do the same thing just described for the cruise switch, but for the 'ABS plug' this time. This plug is located on the master cylinder, directly below the brake line which is closest to the brake booster.

The only thing the manual says re. service bleed is "if air is suspected to be in the ABS modulator perform a service bleed using the NGS tester". I assume if you select service bleed on the NGS, it would guide you through it on screen - or maybe the NGS tester comes with it's own manual for these procedures. Any ABS is generally the same, so if using another scantool to do it look up instructions which come with that tool or just find the general procedure on the net. Only other note in the manual that may be relevant is you should not manually run the ABS pump for more than five seconds at a time.

Nothing else really specific to bleeding in the manual, but let us know if you want me to look up or tell you something specific. Hope that helps anyway.

Steve.

Paul m · 05-10-2005, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve_T

The only thing the manual says re. service bleed is "if air is suspected to be in the ABS modulator perform a service bleed using the NGS tester". I assume if you select service bleed on the NGS, it would guide you through it on screen - or maybe the NGS tester comes with it's own manual for these procedures. Any ABS is generally the same, so if using another scantool to do it look up instructions which come with that tool or just find the general procedure on the net. Only other note in the manual that may be relevant is you should not manually run the ABS pump for more than five seconds at a time.

Nothing else really specific to bleeding in the manual, but let us know if you want me to look up or tell you something specific. Hope that helps anyway.

Steve.

The scantool says to read the ford workshop manual before proceeding.

Where abouts are you.

Paul

Steve_T · 05-10-2005, 09:37 PM

Alice Springs.

flathead 276 · 07-10-2005, 08:02 PM

Paul M,
try this, when bleeding brakes, do not pump pedal, have someone in car to depress pedal, whilst you "crack" bleed nipple, push pedal to floor, tighten bleed nipple, if air is present repeat. If free of air of air go to next caliper and repeat process,until all four calipers have been done. Start furthest from master cylinder and work to closest. I was told this by a mechanic, if you pump pedal to force fluid to calipers air bubbles may generated, causing a "spongy" feel to your brake pedal.Tried it myself on a couple of brake replacements last week, worked for me. hope this helps.

Paul m · 10-10-2005, 11:28 AM

Thanks for all the information guys, I have to do the 90k service soon so I will do it then with a modified approch (read - was pumping the brake pedal...)

If anyone has a copy of the workshop manual in or around Canberra that I can have a look at, let me know.

Thanks
Paul

flathead 276 · 10-10-2005, 10:50 PM

H Paul,
lots of replies to your question, hope all goes well.Don't be put off, nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself. Couldn"t afford service manual, but bought an Ellery's book ( ford want unbelievable price for AU, don't even think about asking about BA manual, clerk at thompson ford parramatta thought both overpriced) bought basic manual, from supercheap, $40.00 over about $500.00 BA over$1000.00. It does mention bleeding ABS modulator(if buying replacement they are pre-bled) and that if pedal is still "spongy" after standard bleeding air should be suspected in modulator, and an NGS bleed test should be carried out.
Hope this is useful.

29-11-2005, 01:35 PM

this has been good reading

T2TL50 · 04-12-2005, 11:22 PM

Any one know what it costs for an abs bleed? I suspect from what i have read that i have air in the abs module.. my foot travels way!!! too much.. then finally after a few secs of hard breaksing ABS kicks in..

:S