86 telstar\hybrid issues

89 S-PACK · 28-01-2007, 02:04 PM

the motor runs beut... but when i was driving home on sat (the gasket died going to work) i pulled over and the manifold was cherry red hot, i thought that aint good and ive had to park it till i find out what is doing this, it fried a brand new set of spark plug leads from the heat, so there not getting replaced till the overheating stops

a few months ago i blew the original motor up and put '88' at mazda carby motor in it.... since then ive been blowing exhaust manifold gaskets like crazy (try 4 since xmas).... only done this since engine swap

the timing is spot on... fuel is spot on...(recoed the at carby) cant think what else is stuffed

im running the ford exhaust manifold, the mazda one is longer. ford dizzy, mazda one has a broken cap and rotor button.

im out of ideas..... severly tempted to hand in the plates and sell the car to the scap metal man...

thanks 4 ur help

dirty hands · 28-01-2007, 10:50 PM

apart from warpage look at the radiator being clogged
a faulty thermatic fan ot temperature sender /activator
thermostat not opening
the water pump not working to full capacity

next internal cracks in the blocks causing hot spots pressure test the head

89 S-PACK · 28-01-2007, 11:38 PM

u mean warpage of the manifold????? i ran a straight edge over them before i put the last lot of new gaskets on and they where fine.... straight as

the thermostat works fine.... tested it before it whent in (with a thermometer in a pot on the stove) im running a colder one so mine opens at a lower temp than what the the standard one does

both thermos are woking fine

radiator is fine.... isnt full of stuff(with the aircon on on a hot day it doest go past 1\4 way up the guage... so it isnt the rad otherwize the aircon would make it worse)

also the temp guage doesnt go up past 1\4 way , and the water pump looks quite new

how can i pressure test the head without taking the head off???

89 S-PACK · 28-01-2007, 11:42 PM

and the guage does go past 1\4 way.... had it nearly all the way up when the fuse for the fand let go in november.... but thats fixed now

and also it hasnt been using coolant.... it just likes to drink oil atm

dirty hands · 29-01-2007, 02:51 AM

try 2 exhaust manifold gaskets see if you can eleiminate the warpage
find extractor gasket type material and use that

reface the exhaust manifold

and yes if still no luck remove head and do the valve stem seals and have the block pressure tested amd exhaust side of the head faced as well

cannot understand why the exhaust would glow hot if water temp and everything checks out the variation of temp metal cold to hot is too great and the nuts must be getting loose from that

89 S-PACK · 29-01-2007, 10:59 PM

just checked the valve clearances... number 4 exhaust was riding like crazy, will be taking the pos for a drive when its dark to see if the manifold still wants to glow like a cherry,

what is the setting for these???? ive set it at 12 thou so its slightly looser than it should be but a noisy tappet doesnt worry me at all

so ultimatley the head needs to come off but i would rather buy something else thats a lot more reliable, and parts are easier to get. and the parts arent expensive as and having to wait to get stuff ordered in

89 S-PACK · 30-01-2007, 02:28 AM

took it for a drive.... i managed to get home before the cops came looking for it
the exhaust is basically straight out atm

the manifold is glowing as bright.....(cold night tonight) but its still getting abnormally hot tho, the bolts arent loosening off there as tight when i did them up on thursday

its always the flange gasket that lets go first and putting 2 in there at the same time makes it blow a lot quicker.

but the gasket sets for it are 20 bucks a go and thats the cheapest i can get (2x manifold and 1x flange)

dirty hands · 30-01-2007, 06:55 AM

my last thought is the metal in the exhaust is system at the block and flange can no longer take the heat so a new thicker metal system has to be fitted

is the catalytic converter clogged or a collapsed muffler ....anywhere in the exhaust have a restriction by the time the gasses reach the tail piipe

your diagnosis of the engine says it is good and not the problem.. only the exhaust
system

dirty hands · 30-01-2007, 04:58 PM

another possibility is the two exhaust manifolds have different openings at the ports

quote im running the ford exhaust manifold, the mazda one is longer.

did this glow start with the manifold swap ???

if your not using ford to ford or mazda to mazda exhaust manifolds check if there is a difference even slight might restrict the hot gasses flow away from the engine

89 S-PACK · 30-01-2007, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirty hands

another possibility is the two exhaust manifolds have different openings at the ports

quote im running the ford exhaust manifold, the mazda one is longer.

did this glow start with the manifold swap ???

if your not using ford to ford or mazda to mazda exhaust manifolds check if there is a difference even slight might restrict the hot gasses flow away from the engine

the manifolds appear to have the same sized ports and they bolt up very easily

the mazda one was 1 cm longer before the flange, it fits but when u start it the exhaust hits the crossmember badly

its done the glowing trick since the engine swap.... the only reason why the motor was swapped cos it dropped a valve and put it straight thru the piston destroying the head and piston

im now sure its a motor related issue cos it hadnt done it prior to when the motors where swapped

what are the valve clearances meant to be on the inlet\exhaust????
i loosened them up a little (cyl4 exhaust was riding like crazy)
cos i would rather a little tappet noise but(so i know ther blood y working when they should be) i still cant hear them even when set looser than they should be

dirty hands · 31-01-2007, 01:09 AM

ford is

firing order is 1-3-4-2
plug gap .8mm
inlet and exhaust valve clearence hot .30mm
idle when hot -manual rpm 800-850--automatic 900-950
timing 6 deg BTDC

for mazda 626 should be same

http://www.mx6.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=74

http://www.mx6.com/forums/index.php?

89 S-PACK · 02-02-2007, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirty hands

ford is

firing order is 1-3-4-2
plug gap .8mm
inlet and exhaust valve clearence hot .30mm
idle when hot -manual rpm 800-850--automatic 900-950
timing 6 deg BTDC

for mazda 626 should be same

http://www.mx6.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=74

http://www.mx6.com/forums/index.php?

thanks for ur help dirty hands....

will try to reset the valves when i next have the chance maybe ive just pulled the valve in or the valve has just let go again

i did a compression test on it no 4 is rooted

cyl 1 160
cyl 2 165
cyl 3 160
cyl 4 didnt register, needle just flickered

didnt do a wet test on 1 2 3 but no 4 didnt change

but 1 2 3 where pretty even on a dry test

dirty hands · 02-02-2007, 07:24 AM

a valve you thought it was exhaust number 4 and you were right

bit of bad luck but does explain the odd overheating

89 S-PACK · 05-02-2007, 01:51 PM

yeah i know.... i wont be fixing it tho, had enough headaches.....

so i'll probably hand in the rego and get some money back and cancel the insurance. might try to sell it on e-bay or to the local wrecker for what i can get for it....
im not short of cars to drive anyway till i get something else to replace it

and the 4 spd shi ts me and the fact its hard to get parts for it.....

(not many wreckers keep parts for them and they usally wont separate good motors\boxes and this valve thing seems to be a common issue)

so.... ive basically seeing it as a financial writeoff, i wont get my money back so why pour more into it if i dont have it????