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Old 20-06-2008, 06:03 PM   #1
mr302xd
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Default Changing spark plugs

Hi

Im doin my service in the next couple of days and i had a look at where the spark plugs are, and there in a tight spot. Any recommendations of what i can use to get at em, or wat u have used?

Cheers Frank

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Old 20-06-2008, 06:11 PM   #2
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All i used was a ratchet with the specific spark plug thingymabob

If i can do it, anyone can!

Although i did cut my finger... that metal is SHARP!

Oh... just saw ur username.. Urs might be a little different to mine!


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Old 20-06-2008, 06:51 PM   #3
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Ahh yea i shouldve said its an XR8 lol
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Old 20-06-2008, 07:51 PM   #4
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Its hard to get to the plugs out in an AU V8 because of the GT40P heads as they have a 90degree spark plug angle which doesnt leave much room between the plugs and the headers. If you dont have good tools then go down to supercheap auto and get a spark plug remover tool. I bought one of these and could get every spark plug out but it was a bit of a headache as a couple of them were a really tight fit and i snapped a plug trying to tighten it on an angle. Maybe someone here will have a better method though.
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Old 20-06-2008, 07:55 PM   #5
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16mm plug socket will do all but no.5. That one is a bastard of a thing and will take you ages.

What plugs you got/going to get?
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Old 20-06-2008, 08:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
16mm plug socket will do all but no.5. That one is a bastard of a thing and will take you ages.

What plugs you got/going to get?
I have an orange spak plug tool layin around here somewhere?? I havent got any yet. Is there any that u recommend? I also should get new leads but at around 170 ill have to save a bit
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Old 20-06-2008, 08:32 PM   #7
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Tis an easy job to do, all you need is a 1/2" drive ratchet, a 15mm spark plug socket.

The secret is to not fekin tighten the spark plugs to 4000 ftlbs with a bloody 6ft tension wrench, all you need is a quick nip up after you have screwed the plugs in all the way by hand.

Mine has the big difilippo extractors and i manage to change them in no time with the above mentioned tools.
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Old 20-06-2008, 09:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr auxr8
I have an orange spak plug tool layin around here somewhere?? I havent got any yet. Is there any that u recommend? I also should get new leads but at around 170 ill have to save a bit
NGK BPR6EFS-13 are what I use. The Iridium (TR55IX) ones aren't actually the correct part even though NGK's book says they are.
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Old 22-06-2008, 08:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
NGK BPR6EFS-13 are what I use. The Iridium (TR55IX) ones aren't actually the correct part even though NGK's book says they are.
Whats wrong with TR55IX plugs? I've had them in my car for 4 months with no problems so far.
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Old 22-06-2008, 08:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS 50
Whats wrong with TR55IX plugs? I've had them in my car for 4 months with no problems so far.
The windsor has a recommended gap of 1.2-1.3, the TR55IX has a gap of 1.5. I spoke to NGK and they confirmed this and told me that they list the TR55IX as the correct plug but they need to be regapped to 1.2-1.3 but if you do this they won't warrant them and they also don't recommend doing it because they are iridium and brittle. So they say gap them so they are right but don't gap them because they are easy to break, makes sense huh : They then gave me the BPR part numbers, BPR5EFS-13 & BPR6EFS-13, as a substitute. I went the colder range 6 since I was having detonation issues with the TR55IX, and that did solve the problem.
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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 22-06-2008, 02:06 PM   #11
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^furry muff, cos i put TR's in my old car and it felt HEAPS better. i went to a mates and he had this s****y ratchet that had a lever on the handle that u pulled like a motorbike brake/clutch lever and that was freaking awesome cos u crack them the normal way then ratchet them out with the lever, i just sat back gobsmacked at the ingenuity of this tool!!!
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Old 22-06-2008, 07:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
The windsor has a recommended gap of 1.2-1.3, the TR55IX has a gap of 1.5. I spoke to NGK and they confirmed this and told me that they list the TR55IX as the correct plug but they need to be regapped to 1.2-1.3 but if you do this they won't warrant them and they also don't recommend doing it because they are iridium and brittle. So they say gap them so they are right but don't gap them because they are easy to break, makes sense huh : They then gave me the BPR part numbers, BPR5EFS-13 & BPR6EFS-13, as a substitute. I went the colder range 6 since I was having detonation issues with the TR55IX, and that did solve the problem.
Oh well looks like someone has a job for next weekend doesn't he!!
Thanks for explaining this.
Haven't heard her ping yet.
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Old 22-06-2008, 07:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS 50
Oh well looks like someone has a job for next weekend doesn't he!!
Thanks for explaining this.
Haven't heard her ping yet.
I couldn't either until I thought I could when I was overtaking flat stick with a concrete barrier next to me and the window down. A run on a dyno confirmed it, plug change fixed it.
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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 28-06-2008, 03:37 PM   #14
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We'll just re gapped my spark plugs they varied from 1.4 - 1.45 . They now set at 1.3.
No dramas.
The tune specs on the sticker under my bonnet said 1.3 - 1.4mm.
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Old 28-06-2008, 04:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
I went the colder range 6 since I was having detonation issues with the TR55IX, and that did solve the problem.
If you still wanted to stay with iridium plugs from NGK you could try BPR6EFIX-10 which they say are gapped at 1.1 and are a colder plug. They recommend it for the Pursuit ute (maybe the different front has slightly higher temps) The iridium plugs with a thinner electrode according to the NGK tech I spoke to dont require as large a gap as OEM (so he says)
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Old 30-06-2008, 07:13 PM   #16
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ahh guys the autobarn guy gave the tr55ix! So does that mean i have to regap em? Cause i aint buyin new ones at $20 a plug!!!!!
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
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What is the service schedule on the plugs for the xr8 III and how many K's do u get out of the BPR6EEFS-13 plug
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUV DE COUPE
What is the service schedule on the plugs for the xr8 III and how many K's do u get out of the BPR6EEFS-13 plug
Service schedule on the Iridiums is 100k but there is no way I'd ever leave plugs that long. On the ones I recommend I'd chane them every 15-20k, more if you aren't too worried about optimal performance.
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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
Service schedule on the Iridiums is 100k but there is no way I'd ever leave plugs that long. On the ones I recommend I'd chane them every 15-20k, more if you aren't too worried about optimal performance.
Mine still has the factory plugs and has done 108000 k's and a rough idle especially when cold.
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Old 06-09-2008, 06:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUV DE COUPE
Mine still has the factory plugs and has done 108000 k's and a rough idle especially when cold.
Time to change them then, have fun trying to get the old ones out lol.
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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:20 AM   #21
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Just had a look on ebay I can get the TR55IX for $11.95 each with free post,at that price I will re gap them.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:02 AM   #22
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I HATE no. 5.... The last two times I changed it, I cracked the insulator. Thank god it doesn't miss or cause problems, cause after I changed it I certainly couldn't be bothered replacing it again lol
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:10 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james22
I HATE no. 5.... The last two times I changed it, I cracked the insulator. Thank god it doesn't miss or cause problems, cause after I changed it I certainly couldn't be bothered replacing it again lol
Be more bloody careful then, darn younguns today. Always in a rush
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nah mate, aussie cars are the besterest and funnerest, nothing beats them, specially a poofy wrong wheel drive
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Old 13-09-2008, 07:22 AM   #24
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Well I got my plugs and put them in yesterday, one of the easiest plug changes I have had to do(pleasant surprise). With number 5 I used the plug socket with a 19 mm ring spanner.The old plugs were very sad.New plugs Improved cold start idle.
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Old 24-01-2017, 11:36 AM   #25
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Default Re: Changing spark plugs

NGK & Bosch Iridium/platinum plugs do not offer better performance, only longer life expectancy because of the tip.It is harder and doesn't burn out as quick. I do not see the point in wasting 8 x $21 for plugs when the Bosch HR8-DCV at $5 each offer matched performance. I change oil and oil filters every 5000kms. I change plugs every 10,000kms without fail so for me to use a dearer plug is false economy.
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Old 24-01-2017, 06:38 PM   #26
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Default Re: Changing spark plugs

Guys,

Why doesn't anyone use the recommended factory motorcraft plugs for their XR8's?

Regards
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Old 24-01-2017, 08:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edxr6 View Post
Guys,

Why doesn't anyone use the recommended factory motorcraft plugs for their XR8's?

Regards
I can't see any advantage to paying more especially as I change everything half way through its life span and there is no real world difference from what I can see. I just replaced my au 220kw with $5 Bosch plugs and she runs better than ever. The $100 saved I spend on quality oil & filters which do make a difference imo.
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Old 25-01-2017, 06:47 PM   #28
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Default Re: Changing spark plugs

I had the same problem with the TR 55 and 65's
I rang NGK as well and they said the same, gap is to big
Run the bpr6's now as per NGK

I got extractors on mine, there is only a few you can get too with socket wrench but for number 5, i I used this,! plug that into the socket, then use 1/4 spanner to turn it. 7,8 and 4 put the socket on and turn it with a spanner as mentioned above
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