AU motor in EB/ED

ALS008 · 10-01-2006, 11:22 AM

Hi,

First, up how much would a AU from a wreker cost?? Ball park figures. Where in melb does anyone know of a good wreker.

Second, how hard is it to fit the AU motor into an EB/ED engine bay. Is it a drop in motor? What are some of the tings to look out for??

Cheers Guys

TheSneakiness · 10-01-2006, 11:24 AM

Talk to OED666, he's just put an AU XR6 HP motor in his ED.

ned · 10-01-2006, 11:36 AM

And I'm in the process of doing it, I'll let you know how I go once I start.

ilsautomotive · 10-01-2006, 11:58 AM

I paid about $1300 for my motor, as new from an AU III, with 55,000 kms and all anciliaries. It is no harder than changing to a normal E series motor except that you need to cut the front K frame beam to solve a clearance issue (and weld a replacement), and change over to EA-ED engine mounts. Also, if you want to use an ED manifold as I do, there is extra stuffing around with XH belt & tensioner and A/C bracket mounts. Mine still isn't finished.

ALS008 · 10-01-2006, 12:00 PM

Would there be any benifit to just fit a latter model head from the AU to the ED block. I have read that from the EF onwards the crank was internally balanced which made the motor smoother. Would just changing the head not be worth an entire AU engine conversion??

Racecraft · 10-01-2006, 12:05 PM

You'll be surprised what the head vs whole motor cost wise is.. The AU engines are super reliable and most wreckers have a surplus of them. I can get AU engines for $450 but a complete 2nd hand head is $330. For the extra $120 bucks I'll take the low kay bottom end as a bonus everytime

ALS008 · 10-01-2006, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

You'll be surprised what the head vs whole motor cost wise is.. The AU engines are super reliable and most wreckers have a surplus of them. I can get AU engines for $450 but a complete 2nd hand head is $330. For the extra $120 bucks I'll take the low kay bottom end as a bonus everytime

Yeah not doubt with the price difference i wouldnt think twice.

For those that have done this conversion already or in the process, would you be able to post a pic of where the "k frame" needs to be moded??

XRated · 10-01-2006, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALS008

For those that have done this conversion already or in the process, would you be able to post a pic of where the "k frame" needs to be moded??

Alternatively you can grind the front of the sump so it clears the K-frame as far as I'm aware. There a billion threads on this very topic. It might be an idea to search.

ilsautomotive · 10-01-2006, 12:19 PM

That is correct, I chose to cut it (just a bit beyond the width of the sump, because it doesn't go inwards like the EA-ED). The reason being, it is possible to weld an even stronger than stock beam in its place, whereas grinding the sump would still only just clear and you'd be slightly compromising the motor's rigidity.

ned · 10-01-2006, 02:00 PM

Trouty, can you provide any pics of the K-Frame on your car, as I have said I'm in the process of putting an AU motor into my EB and would like to know as much as possible before I make a start. Also... If I use an AU alternator, I would be able to use the serpentine setup is that correct?

ilsautomotive · 10-01-2006, 02:05 PM

I'll try get some pics tonight. The AU motor should be fully compatible with EF onwards anciliaries (serpentine).

need psi · 10-01-2006, 03:33 PM

i didnt cut the k-frame i just grinded off the rib on the front of the sump, as some one said before, it would be easier, also it shouldnt loose rigidity, its only a casting of the sump, still gives enough clearance.

http://photobucket.com/albums/c392/papaghia/

here are some pics but dont have any of the sump, sorry

Ehab

OED666 · 10-01-2006, 04:01 PM

Yea, i recently put an AU XR6 motor in mine.. I didnt cut the k frame. Just ground away at the sunp. Its a relatively smooth change over. Cost me $900 with all accessories. Private Sale.

Wreckers in brissie have 35,000k motors for $650, and then you need accessories. They also include the manifold for $650. No price difference if you dont want it, only cuz they are like arseholes... They are everywhere..

THE ONLY THING TOO LOOK OUT FOR!!! the water pump outlet on the AU motor is smaller than EA-ED. You will find that you cant put your EA-ED bottom hose on the AU pump. I got a reducer made from stainless steel. Works a treat.

You will also need thermofans if you keep the serpentine belt. If you keep the 3 belt setup, there is a ИИИИload of grinding to be done... 1 belt looks better...

ned · 10-01-2006, 04:39 PM

Thanks, for the extra info.

Perana · 10-01-2006, 05:01 PM

Hmmm I didnt cut the k-frame or grind the sump on mine... plenty of clearence...

EA-D manifolds bolt straight on, EA-D engine mounts bolt straight on, EA-D water pump bolts on, EA-D accessories arent just a straight bolt up though... Aircon pump needs holes drilled and tapped in the block, Alt needs mounts changed a bit, and timing cover needs grinding so the adjusters can move. Would be much easier to convert to serpentine with an XH belt tensioner.

SWOOP · 10-01-2006, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OED666

.
THE ONLY THING TOO LOOK OUT FOR!!! the water pump outlet on the AU motor is smaller than EA-ED. You will find that you cant put your EA-ED bottom hose on the AU pump. I got a reducer made from stainless steel. Works a treat.

another way to do is use a au piece as a sleeve siliconed over outlet then the ed one over top with 2 clamps ,14 months later still going strong

its very straight forward swap for an AU motor into ea-d
my first ever eng change and not a hick up, car has put 45000kms since and hasnt stuffed up

Ultra reliable and smooth compared to the old donks

ned · 10-01-2006, 06:59 PM

Perana, if I choose to use the BBM, and all the AU stuff, I shoodn't need the XH tensioner should I?

EBFalcs · 10-01-2006, 07:06 PM

why can't you put an EB/ED sump on the AU motor instead of grinding stuff

ilsautomotive · 10-01-2006, 08:00 PM

The sump is quite different I think. Anyway, here is the pic that was requested.

INJECTED_250 · 10-01-2006, 08:07 PM

NEd.. ill get back to u soon about the motor swap, just getting the cortina stuff sorted will be soon. Ned if u use the bbm u can use any EF/AU tensioner, u still need to run AU drive belt though. Make sure u get the bolts with the alternator. ALso may have to get either a pulley for your p/s pump or a second hand EF/au one (which i may have ). Also if u use the EB air bypass motor on the bbm manifold some bonnet clearance issuse arise.

Grinding the sump in an EA/ED is the easiest option in the 3 ive done they have never hit the front x member.
Heres some photos of the sump mods...
http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc010619vd.jpg

INJECTED_250 · 10-01-2006, 08:39 PM

http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sc013788ky.jpg

ned · 10-01-2006, 09:02 PM

Thanks man, just wanna get it done ASAP, don't wanna leave stuff lying around in the backyard for ages, parents are killing me! I'll try and get my hands on a tensioner and pulley in the meantime, and if I can't then I'll let you know.

EBFalcs · 10-01-2006, 10:17 PM

sump can't be that different

Perana · 10-01-2006, 10:20 PM

The Main caps being cross bolted on the AU would be part of it.. where they aren't on EA-L

INJECTED_250 · 10-01-2006, 10:21 PM

THe sump isnt all that differnt and its easy to make fit. U need the AU sump so u can bolt the AU alternator on.... No au sump no au alternator :>.. simple..
Why bugger around putting on an EB sump when an AU one fits in with 5 mins of grinding....
To make the eb sump fit u need to get the rear cap machined WAY TO MUCH WORK

ALS008 · 11-01-2006, 12:01 PM

1) I have noticed that most of you have used the EA-D inlet manifold and not the AU broadband manifold, why is this??

2) From what i have gathered the grinding off that rib on the fwd sump is the way to go. Quick and easy!!

3) Could someone explain why - if i was to buy a complete AU motor with all AU accessories ie; alt, comp, waterpump, pwr steer, AU inlet manifold & then modify the sump, put on the EA-D engine mounts, why the motor should not just drop in?? This seems easy enough to me..... please explain!!

ned · 11-01-2006, 12:11 PM

I'm doing exactly what you have said in number 3. I'll be running the serpentine belt setup, but you'll need an EL ECU to control the switching of the BBM and you'll also need to add thermo's. If you stay with the coil packs as the AU's had them, then you'll need to change looms as well I believe, however if you put a dizzy in its place your existing loom is fine.

Hope that helps, and anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going through the same process myself.

TURBO_GHIA · 11-01-2006, 01:16 PM

yep im looking at either an AU or an EL engine into my ED pretty soon ,
so all this info is very helpful

Jim5_0 · 11-01-2006, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ned

I'm doing exactly what you have said in number 3. I'll be running the serpentine belt setup, but you'll need an EL ECU to control the switching of the BBM. If you put a dizzy in its place your existing loom is fine.

I am cosidering using a BBM on an EB & can't help wondering if you can't use an adjustable shift light circuit & solenoid setup to control the BBM?

Jim..

EA2BA · 11-01-2006, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim5_0

I am cosidering using a BBM on an EB & can't help wondering if you can't use an adjustable shift light circuit & solenoid setup to control the BBM?

Jim..

Yes you can, I have done this on my EA, but there is a problem in that the EA-ED ecu cant handle the switch of runners very well, the fuel mixture cannot change quick enough when the runners change so you will run very ritch when the runners switch, but stay under 3,800rpm and the extra torque is really worth it.
If you lock the runners in long runner mode (for torque) you cant rev the motor above 3,800rpm so either switch them (and run ritch when they do switch) or leave them in short runner mode (same length as ea-ed inlet pipe) and there is no gain but it will look good.

Get an EL ecu and put that in, a few wires have to changed, smartlock has to be added or bypassed is the only way to do it properly.