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09-01-2010, 10:52 PM | #1 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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As I have just spent most of the past few weekends figuring out why #2 sons SR splutters and stops for no reason in the heat We have moved on to the fuel pump (having done plugs.leads,coilpack,fuel filter,ext) so I thought why not another how to :Reverend: this can also be used to spin your Fuel sock around to help prevent surging, (Note; this car was purchased new and has 170 ks on it, and all servicing has been by Ford or in house) This thread is just a guide to help others that may wish to try it for them selves, and is just how I did, it be it the rite or wrong way it worked for me.
First it is a good idea to have little or next to no fuel in the tank (although no essential ). Tools Needed will be Pointy nosed pliers, 7mm open end /ring spanner, 2 medium blade screwdrivers, 1 flat bar or screwdriver. If replacement of the pump is needed I purchase mine of Ebay from a Deerpark supplier for $50 + postage took 4 days to deliver it Came complete with all fittings in kit form, and for what it's worth looks no different to the original 1. remove boot mat and on the left / passengers side floor is a flat round disk that covers the pump this is stuck to the floor with sicaflec type stuff and needs to be pryed off, (don't worry if it bends a bit you can easily tap it flat again with a hammer 2.With the cover removed, unplug the wiring, at this stage I opened the fuel cap to release any pressure in side it. the fuel lines now need removing from the top of the tank this can be done by gently squeezing the clips at the side together a levering the inside with a small blade screw driver whist sliding back at the same time (easyer than it sounds really : ) Note; some fuel may still be under pressure and a small amount my leak out so keep a few rags handy. . Now with the lines removed you should be able to see a 5" hose clamp securing the lid this is best removed with a 7mm ring spanner as a screw driver wont fit in the hole, unless you have a flexi drive Now at this stage I vacuumed any loose dirt and gunk from around the cap to avoid it falling into the tank Next part becomes a bit tricky as you have plastic screwed into plastic which tends to bind up ,it has been suggest that if you loosen the tank straps both sides about 1/3 of the way it will help to stop the distortion of the tank. as I only found this out later I haven't tried it out,Now if you don"t have the proper removal tool to unscrew the cap this is what I did. with the lines and hose clamp removed I levered around the outer edge of the cap with a large screwdriver against the body of the floor as you move it round the lid you can see the cap flex thus appearing to loosen and more gunk build up then re vacuumed the hole. Next with one medium blade screwdriver on each side of the cap in the slots that can be seen in the lid , push then in so they sit fairly securely , then with a 3rd larger screw driver or flat bar as near to the base as practical twisted the cap anti clockwise ( to the passengers side for those with digital clocks :togo: ) with the cap now removed the unit can be removed completely Good idea to put the plate back over the hole while you mess with the pump to My guess is it is not supposed to be coated with black sludge : The disassembly / reassembly of the pump and components is fairly straight forward as all the bits are there already, at this point time to check if your fuel sock is facing to the rear of the car (this how this S3 SR came out of the tank My S2 was facing forward ) the new pump sock only clipped in to the rear the OM could clip in either way with the new pump fitted to the unit replacement is the reverse of the removal with just a few tips to help 1. a finger full of Vaseline jelly around the thread on the lid made it easyer to tighten 2. make sure the O ring is in position on the inside of the unit and sits flush 3. the complete unit sits flush when back in the correct position , you may need to turn it to the left or right slightly as the in and out pipe do not sit square to the front of the car. then just Silastic the cover back down an your done. Once again this is just a guide on how I did it ,it may not be text book but it worked for me and I would think any one else with a basic mechanical knowledge Cheers Whoosha
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........Age and treachery will ALWAYS overcome youth and skill....... CORTINA 250 2V POWER soon to be AUXR8 Windsor pwrd .............WINDSOR WARLORD WHO CARRIES THE CLEVO MAFIA AND BROKEN BOSSES... .................................................. Quote:
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09-01-2010, 11:07 PM | #2 | ||
Walking with God
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 7,321
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Nice one Whoosha!
I hope it ends the hassles your son has had with the AU. GK
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2009 Mondeo Zetec TDCi - Moondust Silver 2015 Kia Sorento Platinum - Snow White Pearl 2001 Ducati Monster 900Sie - Red Now gone! 1999 AU1 Futura Wagon - Sparkling Burgundy On LPG Want a Full Life? John 10:10 |
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09-01-2010, 11:18 PM | #3 | ||
Shame Holden, Shame
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sanitarium
Posts: 1,306
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Fantastic how to.
I assume this would be very similar if not the same to the EF pump? Does anyone know if that hose clamp would be the same in an EF?
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09-01-2010, 11:18 PM | #4 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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Quote:
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10-01-2010, 12:50 PM | #5 | ||
Flairs - Truckers Delight
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brisbane Northside Likes: Opposite Lock
Posts: 5,731
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Very good writeup whoosha. I'm always amazed at the excellent things ford do that holden do not, ie to change a fuel pump in a commodore, you better have an empty tank! And if you don't have a hoist, forget about it!
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Current: Silhouette Black 2007 SY Ford Territory TX RWD 7-seater "Black Banger"
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10-01-2010, 04:31 PM | #6 | ||
ROCKING THE EL FUTURA
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: HOW DARE YOU
Posts: 2,221
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nice write up mate.
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10-01-2010, 04:55 PM | #7 | |||
Back to Le Frenchy
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Back home.....
Posts: 13,346
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Nice write up there Whoosh, pretty much the same way I do mine.
WTF is with that fuel sock?!?!?!?!? Last I checked they weren't black!
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10-01-2010, 05:42 PM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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i`ve been threataning to do this on mine, but motorvation has`nt been there(hey i`m old...... : ) , i see how easy it is now, good job Whoosha.
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10-01-2010, 07:38 PM | #9 | ||
All Bran = Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: BrizVegas
Posts: 1,970
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Thanks mate; I'll be doing this before our next trip away.
edit: I notice you don't need the big furry helper with this one. That will make it a bit easier for the rest of us ;) |
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10-01-2010, 07:41 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 683
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Rotating the sock helps prevent surging ?
Facing the rear is better than forward ?
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AU XLS. |
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11-01-2010, 08:02 AM | #11 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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Quote:
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11-01-2010, 08:27 AM | #12 | ||
Treasure your balls?
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NW Melbourne
Posts: 2,570
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Great write up Whoosh. Was the 180 a recall? My series 1 has 350 K and never a surge problem. It does have 3 recall stickers inside the driver's door frame.
If you havn't done so already, get one of the mods to edit into the 'how to' thread.
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11-01-2010, 09:04 AM | #13 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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Quote:
Last edited by Whoosha; 11-01-2010 at 09:11 AM. |
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11-01-2010, 01:20 PM | #14 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Brisbane, Qld
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Beer Baron.
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AU XLS. |
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11-01-2010, 02:41 PM | #15 | ||
5.6L x 2 pilot
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Canbra
Posts: 15,038
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Nice work Woosha. It is great to see someone going to the effort to document their work and sharing it with others.
I had a similar problem with my 2002 LTD. Under warranty, Ford dealers were looking at the electrical / computer issues, but could not replicate the problem, let alone fix it. The key for me is that I could replicate the surge with 1/4 tank or less, take it to a Ford dealer and nothing would show up on the computer diagnostics. I finally made the 1000Km trip to the dealer that I bought it from - keeping the tank above 3/4 as not to give me grief on the way. When I got to the dealer I had let the tank run down to under 1/4 of a tank. I replicated the problem for the Ford 'Technician' with predictable reliability. What they found was that the pump was 'self destructing'. My second fuel filter was full of black gunk within 2500 KM. I can only assume that the 'black gunk' was rubber from within the fuel pump. Fuel pump was replaced and so all is now good - touch wood. A couple of tips from my experience - check your fuel filter now that you have replaced your son's pump. I also have an after market workshop manual for the AU range - it advises to loosen the bands holding the tank in place to avoid distortion and not allowing you to get the new pump in. Well done - keep up the good work. As I work more on my car (now out of dealer warranty), I will try and document as well for the benefit of other members.
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11-01-2010, 09:11 PM | #16 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Queensland
Posts: 71
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Great write up mate , it certainly helps others out who are wondering how to go about fixing these problems. Makes it so much easier to do things when you have a great how to like this...thanks Whoosha
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11-01-2010, 10:01 PM | #17 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Hawthorn. Melbourne
Posts: 196
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You are lucky you dont have a wagon. Having almost zero fuel in the tank is a must. The full tank has to be lowered and is a pain in the ****! Three Fuel later - I should know
I didnt no abou the sock, I must ahve a look at one of the removed ones I have saved Ray
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20-11-2010, 01:06 AM | #18 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
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Woosh, Ive got a 6cyl 99 au ute that just dies on you after driving for a while on a hot day, I need to wait 15-20 mins for it to cool off or reset or whatever before I can start up again. Is that the same problem you were having and did the fuel pump replacement or the fuel line near the heater hose fix the problem? cheers.
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20-11-2010, 10:23 AM | #19 | ||||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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Quote:
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........Age and treachery will ALWAYS overcome youth and skill....... CORTINA 250 2V POWER soon to be AUXR8 Windsor pwrd .............WINDSOR WARLORD WHO CARRIES THE CLEVO MAFIA AND BROKEN BOSSES... .................................................. Quote:
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23-01-2013, 01:28 PM | #20 | ||
gone fishing
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Morayfield qld
Posts: 286
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thanks woosha for this info, I know I know thread mining lol
I just used this to change my fuel pump, I couldn't find this info on the forums straight up although there is a link for fuel pumps and filters but it takes you else where, I ended up doing a google search. thanks again job well done
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Cheers Whiskers |
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23-01-2013, 09:04 PM | #21 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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Should be linked up in the top of Use full threads in the "How Too s" Mite have to add a bit more to the heading
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........Age and treachery will ALWAYS overcome youth and skill....... CORTINA 250 2V POWER soon to be AUXR8 Windsor pwrd .............WINDSOR WARLORD WHO CARRIES THE CLEVO MAFIA AND BROKEN BOSSES... .................................................. Quote:
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25-03-2014, 07:25 PM | #22 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
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Hi Whoosha
Below is the symptom of my AU ii Faclon's problem. Someone suggested it seems similiar to the problem of your #2 son's car. Could you have a look and give me some advice. Thanks, Kayyan ''My 2001 AU ii with mileage 350000 has a system cut up problem whcih can't be identified by my electrician and mechanics. Sometimes it suddenly stops on the road and I can restart the car srtaight away after that. The problem happens at low speed such as 30 to 40 km/hr. And it happened when car was idling once. My electrician scanned the car and found no relavant code. He guessed from experience that ''crank angle sensor'' is likely to be the problem and changed it on Dec 2013. I drive the car for around 2000 km since then and the problem come back again. Same electrician inspected and scanned the car again and still could not find out what's wrong, ie no relavant code turned up. He cleaned up throttel body as well although it is perfectly clean. Nb My mechanics inspected the car before my electrican changed crank angle sensor last Dec and found no relevant mechanical fault re the problem as well.'' |
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27-07-2024, 03:49 PM | #23 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 70
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Thanks so much for this write up. It helped me get over some of my fear of working on my car and I replaced the old fuel pump with a GOSS pump. I believe the old one was fine apart from the fuel sender unit which looks bad - hopefully this new assembly will fix my inaccurate fuel level on the cluster.
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