Bizarre door lock problem

[Juzman]

Hi guys,

this issue has been driving me nuts. Rear Passenger door won't lock, makes a whirring noise when it tries to lock. So replaced the actuator (from a BA wagon). Still didn't fix the problem - it still won't lock (doesn't make whirring noise any more though).

However here's the weird thing, when I lock the car (3 doors will lock) but pull up the handle of the dodgy unlocked door, all the doors will then unlock. So doesn't this mean the actuator is 50% working, just not the locking part?

Does this sound like a "too hard basket" case... should I just pull the little metal rod out and leave it unopenable from the outside like it has been for 2 years... or pay lots of money and take it to a mechanic.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Cheers
Justin

[SSD-85]

Malfunctioning actuators will still unlock. As unlocking lifts the rod manually as opposed to the motor in the actuator locking it down.

But in saying that, usually when one actuator fails, it defaults to unlocking all doors and the horn sounds (when you use the remote). So maybe it has something to do with the actual locker/closer itself, ie the part that latches onto the car.

But first and foremost, does it do this when you lock the car with the key?

[foxtrot3]

Hi Using a Ba actuator in an AU might not work as expected as ford made changes to the wiring at different times and even though they look the same they may need a harness adapter to make it work or it may be a faulty second hand one? Cheers MD

[fourl6]

disconnect the inside door handle and lock the car, if the back door locks ill find some pics of how i repaired mine...

the cable wasnt returning far enough after opening the inside handle so it was like someone was holding the inside handle slightly open (preventing it from locking)

Cheers Cam

[Juzman]

Thanks for the tips

Cam - I did what you said and it does indeed lock, so it might be a similar problem to what you experienced, how did you fix it in the end?

Cheers
Justin

[aussiblue]

Also check the snipper rod is not bent.

[fourl6]

Originally Posted by Juzman

Thanks for the tips

Cam - I did what you said and it does indeed lock, so it might be a similar problem to what you experienced, how did you fix it in the end?

Cheers
Justin

just had a look for the photos i took but they've disappeared...
from what i remember:
the part thats causing the problem is the part that unlocks your doors when you open the inside door handle(if theyve been locked while your inside)

if you take your door trim off and pull the whole actuator out, connect door the cable and have a look at how it works, i trimmed down a little white plastic arm that was sticking out and hitting a little black plastic arm when the car tried to lock preventing it from locking. if you cut to much off the car wont unlock when the inside door handle is pulled...

Cheers Cam

[djkelly69]

Hey Juzman

Just wondering if you sorted out this problem, as I am having the exact same issue - whirring from rear passenger door when locking, doors appear locked, but if you pull the handle on the rear passenger door it unlocks all of them!

I have a BA Fairmont Ghia if that helps.

[Stattic]

I'd suggest getting the eight actuator it's just the white worm gear that snapped so get the gear from the wreckers and put it in your au actuator

[V3RSAC3]

Such a common AU problem =( .. I think i've gone through about 5 door altenators =(

[Juzman]

I didn't end up fixing it... I replaced the actuator (stopped the whirring noise) but still wouldn't lock... pulled everything apart, can't work out why. I can only assume it's some sort of signal malfunction?

This back door has been a nightmare, I've given up and just pulled the rod out so it can only be opened from the inside

I've spent too much time on it for no result.

[AMB]

Give this a try Juzman, easy to do - find where the wiring exits the door and goes into the centre pillar thingo through a rubber gromit. Pull the rubber gromit out with wiring and you should find an electrical connector in there. Check the connector. I found my connector all corroded, and one of the wires hanging by a single strand. So there was power flowing to the door, but under high resistance, so not enough power to move the actuator enough.

[rosebush]

did you open up the actutor and check the white worm gear hasnt snapped?

[Uncle Niceguy]

I have the same problem i just bought a ford futura 2002 model but i can't get the doors to lock when i lock it at the driver side only the two front doors lock. Does anyone know if i can get hold of a working automatic locking system that attaches to the car if it might fix the problem? Also does anyone know how to speed up the idle my car tends to stall because it is idling too slow but no actual ford manual addresses this problem. any advice would be awesomely appreciated

[laaata]

I had the white cog snap so I replaced it but it still wouldnt lock. I could hear it working but not locking. Then I purchased a new actuator from ebay for $35 and installed it & the same problem, wouldnt lock (tried to lock with remote & the key) On the new actuator the "child lock" plastic lever wouldnt move so I removed the actuator and pushed the white plastic lever that the inside door lever cable attaches to towards the locking mechanism. Once I did this the child lock lever flicked up and down correctly, I installed the actuator again and the central locking works.
Maybe this helps someone
John

[Uncle_Ken]

A bit of a thread mine but an idea that worked is always welcome.
I also check the door rubber as this can effect the door closing as well

[mad2]

Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken

A bit of a thread mine but an idea that worked is always welcome.
I also check the door rubber as this can effect the door closing as well

as in the back - yes