door wont lock

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 09:36 AM

Ok Ive had a fun night and day.
In bed asleep when my son calls @ 12:15, he has just finished work, carp I think the worse straight away. BUT it was only that the drivers door wont close.
So I go up with the wife and drive his car back.
Today I pull off all the door panels and check for broken actuators,
BUT they are all OK.
SO why wont the car lock???
UK

**PridenJoy** · 01-05-2019, 10:33 AM

Faulty actuator UK

**Mechan1k** · 01-05-2019, 10:49 AM

I have seen a Driver's door actuator still fail ... even without a broken worm gear.

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 12:36 PM

Ok so I swapped out my working AU XR8 drivers mechanism and it still didn't work. (Goes click, click, alll other doors will open/close except the drivers)
I'll now go around the whole car and change them one by one to see what happens.
UK

Citroënbender · 01-05-2019, 12:53 PM

Is it a two stage unlock (first, driver’s door only then all others)?

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 01:34 PM

Its a series 1 AU Fairmont, so 1 click open/shut. Iv'e disconnected the battery for a while and see what happens next

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 05:07 PM

OK the latest
The car will lock (all doors, one click on the remote) and open 3 doors (not the front, the lock goes up/down/up/down.
Next??

Citroënbender · 01-05-2019, 05:44 PM

I thought the weird ones all fell my way.

Is it a S1.5 with Smartshield, not Smartlock?

If all doors unlock, and there was no change with a substituted lock, then you have integrity of wiring. The same pair in each door either lock or unlock depending on which is assigned each of the ground and positive.

The final test of this would be to "direct fire" the driver's door via the kick panel junction after tricking the lock shut, with door open. I touched on this in another thread but you would need to identify the two pins for the driver's door - they'd likely not be the two I used for the passenger unit. Hotwired like this both lock and unlock should be 100% (but on just the driver's door).

I'm going to guess that despite all doors operating on one signal, it has two controller relays - one for the driver's door and one for the rest. Following from this surmise, the driver's door relay may be faulty.

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

I thought the weird ones all fell my way.

Is it a S1.5 with Smartshield, not Smartlock?

If all doors unlock, and there was no change with a substituted lock, then you have integrity of wiring. The same pair in each door either lock or unlock depending on which is assigned each of the ground and positive.

The final test of this would be to "direct fire" the driver's door via the kick panel junction after tricking the lock shut, with door open. I touched on this in another thread but you would need to identify the two pins for the driver's door - they'd likely not be the two I used for the passenger unit. Hotwired like this both lock and unlock should be 100% (but on just the driver's door).

I'm going to guess that despite all doors operating on one signal, it has two controller relays - one for the driver's door and one for the rest. Following from this surmise, the driver's door relay may be faulty.

Will try again tomorrow and see what I can do.
Thanks to all for suggestions, it will save me a lot of time.
UK

**aussiblue** · 01-05-2019, 06:39 PM

Check the snipper rod in that front door is not bent and the lock (snipper) button on the door window sill moves up and down without resistance.

11ford11 · 01-05-2019, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Check the snipper rod in that front door is not bent and the lock (snipper) button on the door window sill moves up and down without resistance.

Ditto to this
Also try removing snipper button-watch it doesn’t catch in the trim
Does it work from key in door - try disconnecting door key switch inside drivers door trim- try disconnecting other doors one at a time
Does it have a door switch on dashboard

Do you have door closed or lock rolled while testing

foxtrot3 · 01-05-2019, 07:53 PM

Hi. There is always the possibility that the actuators on the three doors that still open when the drivers door is locked have faulty actuators and no one has picked up on it since the last time that they were checked and worked properly. The first thing to check would be to see if there is power and earth on the locking wires in one of the "slave" doors using something like a headlight globe as a test light to make sure that the relay contacts can handle a few amps of current flow. If that checks out OK then start throwing actuators in the faulty doors and see what happens. Cheers MD

If its just the drivers door that wont lock even though the button goes up and down you need to check that the inner handle cable and outer handle rod are both returning to the right place and not holding the latch slightly engaged. Cheers MD

**Uncle_Ken** · 01-05-2019, 07:55 PM

Door cards are off all doors, the drivers side snipper button does move up a little (up/down/up/down). When I open the doors, i pull the snipper rod to 'open' the drivers door. If I try and use the key. the key rod comes off

UK

snap0964 · 01-05-2019, 10:54 PM

You'll find it easier for testing if the drivers door lock is plugged in and outside the door. You can manually latch it and monitor the inside and outside handle links, snipper link and key lock link - if they are in the wrong positions, it can confuse and lock up the drivers lock assy. Plus you can watch the actuator arm operate.

**Uncle_Ken** · 03-05-2019, 03:43 PM

UPDATE>>
I went to Ric and Payless (thanks Soxs) and borrowed 4 new locks.

SO the new drivers lock, drivers and passenger rear worked.
BUT new passenger front lock didn't so I put back the original and all good.
The car has gone to work, so I will do some swapping Sat/Sun
UK

**Uncle_Ken** · 04-05-2019, 04:41 PM

Update II
OK so today I had a little time to play "swap the lock'
So all the original locks are back in BAR the drivers front.
It must have been the one ( although I pulled apart the actuator again and the plastic cog is fine.
Might try to pull it all apart to see if I can see anything.
So I can now work in a pit crew for the V8 supercars if they need a loack swapper outer guy.
UK