powersteeing hose

[eXi7w0unD]

so the o ring of my powersetting hose connecting to the powersteeing pump or resuviue is leaking i got a new hose and o rings etc, how does 1 go about replaceing, is it just like disconnect both ends and let it drain then replace?

thanks

[Jastel]

You sure you cant just replace the nut?

90% of the leaks are the o ring inside the nut that screws into the tank

Check this

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11240445

But if you already have the hose just undo it, drain the oil, and put hose on, try not to get oil into alternator, not good for it

[5 FTR 5]

Originally Posted by eXi7w0unD

so the o ring of my powersetting hose connecting to the powersteeing pump or resuviue is leaking i got a new hose and o rings etc, how does 1 go about replaceing, is it just like disconnect both ends and let it drain then replace?

thanks

You have to cut down the side of the fitting.A small type grinding blade tool works ,take your time when you think your close use a flat head screw driver and try to open up the cut.You will have to do a fine cut on the other side of the main cut to help with prising it open.

[bodes-sh]

he has a whole new hose by the sounds of his post....

[JMO]

How does the new nut go on? You buy a replacement from Ford right?

[Chippar]

Originally Posted by eXi7w0unD

so the o ring of my powersetting hose connecting to the powersteeing pump or resuviue is leaking i got a new hose and o rings etc, how does 1 go about replaceing, is it just like disconnect both ends and let it drain then replace?

thanks

Basically that's it, just undo the end on the steering arm first and let the fluid drain onto a tin or something, then undo and remove the hose from the power steering reservoir, making sure that you don't let any fluid get into the alternator just below it. A plastic bag over the alternator will do fine.


Attach the new hose, doesn't matter which end first, and fill the reserevoir with the Ford recommended power steering fluid, Mobilfluid 424, or equivalent. When you've got it to the correct COLD level, start the motor and turn the wheels lock to lock a half a dozen times, to purge the air out of the system. It might be easier to jack the front of the car up to take the weight off the front wheels to do this.

Finally, check the level again, test drive and recheck the level.

It can be a messy job, so have plenty of waste rags handy.

[Jastel]

JMO

Just buy nut from Ford, about $10
Some will tell you they dont sell it from what I have heard

Screw it into the pump first, then clip in the hose, (which you will have already cut off the old nut and cleaned the end) the reason for this is less wear on the inner o ring inside the nut than if you screw it up into the pump.

I cut my old nut off the other way (through the thread) but whatever works for you

[IH8HSV]

Originally Posted by 5 FTR 5

You have to cut down the side of the fitting.A small type grinding blade tool works ,take your time when you think your close use a flat head screw driver and try to open up the cut.You will have to do a fine cut on the other side of the main cut to help with prising it open.

I presume this fitting is screwed into the reservoir?

If so, when you cut it do you have to cut it where it is? Or can you unscrew it and move it to the side a bit and then cut it???

Just looks a bit tricky where it is now thats all.

[FTe_XR8]

yes most definatly unscrew it first then move it, theres a fair bit of movement in the tube, undo the clamp further down if you need more, i would recommend cutting it because i changed the whole lot and what a PITA!!!

[IH8HSV]

OK thanks.

I haven't got an angle grinder, so do you reckon I could cut through it with a hacksaw blade instead??

[Jastel]

It will be slower but safer in case you go too deep with the grinder

May be a bit of a tight fit to get a hacksaw blade in around the engine but
You can remove the whole hose and do it in a vice, much safer and easier
if your are not sure
Just be careful not to damage the tube part where you have to put the new nut if you cut that you will need an entire new hose.
So basically if you do it right you save $100, if you stuff it up you have spent the same amount as if you took it to a mechanic

I do it in the car in about 10 minutes but I have done dozens of them.

[5 FTR 5]

I had my mate cheap electric grinder that he uses for stereo fitting with the small disc on it.Would pay to get the new fitting first so you can judge the depth of the nut.Just be patient better than changing out the whole line on the V8.

[eXi7w0unD]

um i have a lil problem, theirs this thing thats stops me from replaceign the whole thing. :( and its all greasy!

[NC1183]

On the drivers side there is a little clip, push down on the top and using a thin blade screw driver pry the to pieces apart on that drivers side.

[EvilChief]

Originally Posted by eXi7w0unD

um i have a lil problem, theirs this thing thats stops me from replaceign the whole thing. :( and its all greasy!

degrease it

[Jastel]

Or undo the Bolt that holds it to the subframe so you can move things easier, 12mm I think

[NC1183]

Originally Posted by Jastel

Or undo the Bolt that holds it to the subframe so you can move things easier, 12mm I think

I found that harder to undo the clamp, because you are trying to squeeze it instead of just pushing on it.

[Trace 347c]

Instead of cutting down the fitting, get a haxsaw and cut just underneath the shoulder (just where the thread starts) of the fitting. You only have to cut through about 3mm of the fitting until the fitting breaks appart and the circlip is revealed. Pop the circlip off and the rest of the connection comes off and the plus to this is that the pipe doesn't get dammaged. If you cut down the fitting or use a grinder you run a great risk of stuffing up. Takes about 15 mins to do, and the fitting costs about $10 also the o rings are maker o rings, so ford is pretty much the only place to get them from

[Angus64]

Hi. Can anyone tell me why Ford uses the O ring fitting at the power steering pump pressure hose on BA Falcons when the line is made of flexible hose from the pump to the rack

[Jastel]

Not sure but I have never blown a hose (the rubber bit) since they did.

They will eventually wear out, the aluminium where the nut and o ring sit gets too marked and the o ring wont seal properly, this will be about 300000kms but.

The old way the rubber hoses got brittle and if you had to move the pump to do a repair they would usually spring a leak a week later.
I used to get Enzed to make me proper hoses that would last longer
There were several early AU's and E series that burst a P/S hose and sprayed it onto the manifold and caught fire.

I think it is a better way, after I had the heart attack at the price of changing the entire hose, I did the nut fix early on, despite everyone telling me it wasn't possible.

[Angus64]

Jastel. thanks for that info it makes a lot of sense it does get pretty hot at the pump, I have no leaks now so I will leave it as it is, I think I will be a while putting 300000kms on the car I keep the car checked over well just don't like oil leaks.

[HughJarsse]

I know this is an old thread : however I have just done my 2004 BA XR6 hose nut today. Ive owned the car for the past 14 years so its done well not to leak till now.
It was a fairly simple job to cut the old nut off with a dremel cutting disc. The awkward bit was putting the new nut back into the pump.
The inherent twist in the hose constantly fought against me. It took nearly 15 minutes to get the thread to bite.
My top tip is to put the new nut back into the pump first by a couple of turns then push the hose in till it clicks then fully tighten.
Happy days.