[How To] TDCI Timing Belt Replacement - 2.0L QXBA DW10 140PS

[cobrin]

First up I hope this helps at least one person or you enjoyed reading it at least, I'd have done the job without documenting anything but a couple of users were interested and as the timing was perfect I thought I can help with that.

I can say that this was an enjoyable job to do, not a hard job nor overly technical (IMO) but it was quite procedural which makes this job longer than the Petrol brethren. To my surprise you don't need to remove the engine mount on this model to get to anything related to the task, that was nice to stumble upon, I picked up on that when removing the top timing cover and was very happy, you do need to remove and push the starter motor to the left for access which also requires you to disconnect the battery +ve lead on the alternator as it's also connected to the startermotor and passes alongside as it continues on. Lastly I found it easier and cleaner to drop the LH/lower radiator support bar (two bolts) to drop the radiator a few cm to access the drain cock and drain the coolant. Also remove the two top locating pegs (twist and lift off) to allow movement or you'll break one.

I short changed my belt @ 200,000Kms and luckily I did because I caught an unknown issue in it's infancy the...water pump...

This article has been relocated to the Technical Portal.

[whitelion65]

Any play, or bearing noise in the old WP?

[cobrin]

none, it felt as good as the new one but with slightly less resistance when turning it.

[rondeo]

Good show Cobrin!
Any preference for supplier of parts?
Here's a list of brands for reference:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ford/m...iming-belt-set

[cobrin]

I do rondeo, these are of known quality to me so it doesn't matter who you go with, line them up and choose the cheapest, much like PC hardware 10 brands for the same product except there's no one better performing brand.

Gates
Dayco
Bosch
SKF
Sachs

you do know there's the kit + wp yeah? back when I got mine it were GBP$69
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/ford/m...iming-belt-kit

[cobrin]

Pic of the Timing Tool Kit and belt, twas a Gates belt made in the UK "Power Grip" which has a slightly different profile on the male side (leading and trailing edge). Seems to be very normal so happy about that.

[cobrin]

Last update, today I took the family out for a day 380km round trip, folks in their MD ecoboost behind. They saw on my first overtake a normal light grey puff (instead of a black smoke bomb of the ole days) of soot and that was it for the rest of the day nothing else. I've always been anal about potential soot and injector issues but this last maintenance job has alleviated most of that angst and the next checkup will be injector tests.

In the lead up to the belt change it was short trips as usual no different to this last week post belt change. Soot levels have dropped noticeably and everywhere across the board. I were constantly worried and were always monitoring it, especially at night with the lights from vehicles behind to show it up, and it were shown up alright, most of the time I were embarrassed by it (though not as bad as Cruisers/Navaras/Patrols. I were able to coal roll tailgaters easily enough just from mashing the go pedal, not so much now unless it's been collected from the missus sedate driving. All gone well at least to such levels not being picked up by me. Happy chappy to say the least.

If I weren't overtaking as many as I had and not driving it as hard as I were (not forgetting the several bloody roadworks areas), I'd have liked to have seen what figures I could achieve.

Indicated results:
5.8L/100km
avg speed 82kph
DTE 701km
Trip 380.4km

Last personal best on the old belt was 6.1L/100km.

(folks got 7L/100km in theirs)

[bundybear75]

I finally got around to starting to do mine on the weekend. 2012 MC.

Very similar to Cobrins above, a few slight differences in where the accessories mount and such. Starter motor was a B@%* to get to, had to remove the throttle body and some big plastic mounting thingy from behind it.

I used this kit :-

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gates-Ti...72.m2749.l2649

Which was a little over $150 posted and took about 2 weeks. All parts were spot on for the MC. I also used the same lock-up kit as Cobrin. The accessories drive belt is shorter on the MC (Electric power steer)

All went well but time consuming. A hoist would make this job so much easier.....

Hoping to have a chance to finish it in the morning.

There is no way I would of attempted this without Cobrins write up above.

[rondeo]

Go bundybear!

It's also more much needed info for Mondeo DIYers.

All three of us?

Ford dealer quotes $500 plus
for parts?

Did you remove the glow plugs?
I'd have thought it was a bit hard to turn the motor otherwise.

Hope all's working out!

Yes, big plus for Cobrins DIY photos and comments!

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by bundybear75

I finally got around to starting to do mine on the weekend. 2012 MC.

There is no way I would of attempted this without Cobrins write up above.

Shut the front door!!!

Top stuff, glad to have contributed and thrilled someone else had a go.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by bundybear75

I finally got around to starting to do mine on the weekend. 2012 MC.

Very similar to Cobrins above, a few slight differences in where the accessories mount and such. Starter motor was a B@%* to get to, had to remove the throttle body and some big plastic mounting thingy from behind it.

I used this kit :-

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gates-Ti...72.m2749.l2649

Which was a little over $150 posted and took about 2 weeks. All parts were spot on for the MC. I also used the same lock-up kit as Cobrin. The accessories drive belt is shorter on the MC (Electric power steer)

All went well but time consuming. A hoist would make this job so much easier.....

Hoping to have a chance to finish it in the morning.

There is no way I would of attempted this without Cobrins write up above.

Finally had time to finish this on the weekend. A very nervous moment when turning the key for the first time. All went well and seems to be driving normally (apart from the transmission shifting which will have to relearn my driving style).

Once again big thanks to Cobrin and his write up which gave me the confidence to attempt this. I wouldn't have even considered it without his pictorial.

A hoist would be a big help doing this job as its a pain to lay under the car reaching up but it is doable.

Cobrin I have a picture of the crankshaft/flywheel lock up tool in place I could PM you if you wanted to add it to your post?

[cobrin]

Thanks I'll update the post

[cobrin]

Bugger, Post has been and stolen to the technical portal, because excellence

[rondeo]

The starter motor on MY2011 MC can be removed without removing the egr cooler, dipstick and branch to oil filler hose as I thought at first. Main difficulty is getting access to the three retaining bolts. Comes out on the drive belts side.

[rondeo]

After 200000km the aux belt looks like it needs replacing, not for wear, but for damage by stones/fragments 1 to 3mm size. One stone has gone right through the belt and having a go at the pulleys.

As always, reverse Houdini stunt required.

https://www.google.com/search?q=houd...ih=639&dpr=1.5

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by rondeo

One stone has gone right through the belt and having a go at the pulleys.

wow little bugger, I know when I put mine back on I had to look at the diagram (again) as to how the aux belt were routed. I've now remembered it to not forget and the starting point is the PAS pump. Loop over that first and bring the belt downwards for both sides then it routes under the tensioner and the other side under the idler. From there it's easy to see how the rest goes.

My initial stuff up; I started with the Crank pulley and figuring it out albeit incorrectly from there on out. So pro tip anyone that can't remember start at the Power Steering Pump

[rondeo]

In the space behind the grille on the right hand side I found a dislodged five sided plastic cover about six inches long. It fits in the edge of the grille at the side of the radiator (2011 MC).

This would explain grit embedded in the aux belt, anything coming in that opening has a direct path to it. So if you're driving in conditions where grit can be thrown up, might be worth checking the cover.

[rondeo]

Earlier style, maybe MA cover can be seen at 0:07:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdjvM7hwaRk


I used this to drift the new crankshaft oil seal in:


https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-4...ocket_p3142211


60mm O.D.

[rondeo]

I feel a bit ripped off. The grille isn't what it seems, falsies really.

[rondeo]

Oops ...

re PTFE oil seals.

The Ford supplied seal is a PTFE type.
Not being up to date on seals I applied grease to the shaft.
After installing I did some Googling and found
the universal injunction not to apply grease which
'will result in total failure immediately after installation'

See bottom of this page for example:

https://glaser.es/EN/Service-Downloa...tallation.aspx

and many more on youtube etc.

I decided to remove it and buy a new one, only $90!
The original seal was leaking a bit, so would have been working in oil anyway, so not sure about that.

[rondeo]

It's day eleven now and the new timing belt is in place, tensioned and the crankshaft bolt is ready to tighten.

I've been working part time and making special tools and mistakes along the way. Most of these are tools with longer extensions, for example the 6mm hex for timing belt tensioner. Another was for the radiator drain plug so I didn't need to lower the radiator as in Cobrin's excellent photo essay, which was a great help for moral support, along with Alan Howatt's video; though I prefer not to use the rattle gun.

For DIYers, I'd say timing belt replacement on this car is about as hard as the possible gets. Look to the internet for assistance, always with a critical eye.


To harp on a bit, I say forget the AFAIKs and the IMHOs, I just say it as if were the TRUTH, but as you know, it may or may not not be.

[rondeo]

Thanks to cobrin and bundybear for posts on cambelt changing, a great help. It was an anxious moment to start the engine, but a relief to find everything sounds normal now.

I'd say this job calls for expert DIY; preferably in retirement, or not doing it solo. One mistake I made was to grease the crankshaft oil seal. It could have been avoided by reading the Haynes manual, and cost $86 for a new seal to fix. I picked up the mistake because I thought the seal looked a bit different to what they did 'in the old days'.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Thanks to cobrin and bundybear for posts on cambelt changing, a great help. It was an anxious moment to start the engine, but a relief to find everything sounds normal now.

I'd say this job calls for expert DIY; preferably in retirement, or not doing it solo. One mistake I made was to grease the crankshaft oil seal. It could have been avoided by reading the Haynes manual, and cost $86 for a new seal to fix. I picked up the mistake because I thought the seal looked a bit different to what they did 'in the old days'.

Yeah I remember the anxious moment when I first turned the key. Not being a mechanic but pretty handy with my hands I was concerned it could go bang....

I have done over 35K km since so I'm pretty sure its OK....

[rondeo]

The last time my car went bang was on the way to the airport in a 1980 ish toyota corona, which had an Australian made engine. It had a plastic gear instead of a belt or chain. It was a cut down version of some 6 cylinder holden engine. It was dubbed the starfire four by holden, and the misfire four by others.


There was some sort of deal between Toyota and Holden.



There was a bit of ticking from the camshaft area when I started the Mondy, but soon subsided. I did notice a bit of noise from somewhere but a quick comparison with the other car showed it was the same. Perhaps it was the timing belt on the camshaft gear. Hypersensitive I guess, I never noticed it before.

[whitelion65]

Tell me you guys turned it over by hand before trying to start on the starter motor!

[rondeo]

8 times for the timing belt (then put the pins back in) and 4 for the aux belt. Still nervous though!

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by whitelion65

Tell me you guys turned it over by hand before trying to start on the starter motor!

lol that is in my 'Verification Procedure', four full rotations is enough of the crank but for safety sake I did 8 as that's two full combustion cycles and enough to pick a knock or a lockup result.

Good on you Rondo for having a go, and yeah the seal goes in dry and try and not put it on the same location the last seal ran on. I had mine slightly to the outside of the block, original were further recessed, as long as it's all in it will be fine. Back in the day there's a reason why speedy sleeves were needed.

I find it an easy job to do, easier than petrol simply because you don't need to remove the engine mount and support the engine to get the belt out. Perhaps a small part is because I'm somewhat in the Trade -Mining so already up to speed on mechanical work. If I ever do another one I doubt I'll verify it till it's all back together, the crank never moved, no different to the petrol brethren. Just being my first little diesel passenger jobby I thought to do it by the book. It's on me after all.

[rondeo]

Car is running fine after DIY timing belt change. At 200000km there's a leaky transmission fluid hose and a dripping rear main seal. Ford dealer says $1300 to fix the rear seal. Looks a bit too heavy work for me.

Transmission hose I did today and was as they say 'a challenge'. Problem was getting the fingers in to press the tabs. I solved it by cutting the hose and rotating the fittings so my fingers would fit. Push the fitting in, squeeze the tabs and pull apart. Hose was $60.

Not bad for 200000km. Only spent $100 before on turbo boost valve.

Intake manifold around the egr looked a bit carboned up, but still getting 6.0 l/100km.

[bundybear75]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Car is running fine after DIY timing belt change. At 200000km there's a leaky transmission fluid hose and a dripping rear main seal. Ford dealer says $1300 to fix the rear seal. Looks a bit too heavy work for me.

Transmission hose I did today and was as they say 'a challenge'. Problem was getting the fingers in to press the tabs. I solved it by cutting the hose and rotating the fittings so my fingers would fit. Push the fitting in, squeeze the tabs and pull apart. Hose was $60.

Not bad for 200000km. Only spent $100 before on turbo boost valve.

Intake manifold around the egr looked a bit carboned up, but still getting 6.0 l/100km.

Leaky rear main, Aussie Export degreaser is a couple of dollars at Supercheap. I have added it to my servicing schedule......

Mines been leaking for almost 100K and doesn't seem to be getting any worse....

[cobrin]

Yep mine also has the same amount of wet patch it had on it 100K kms ago so it can keep getting a clean.I'm thinking about using a Fumoto quick drain valve on the sump and modifying the underbody tray to fit/make an inspection hatch out of making the job easier but that would see me not take the tray off and subsequently not clean the patch so bit unsure at the moment..

My next bit of work will be a clean out of the EGR valve and intake manifold will likely get a clean and new seals and that's about it.