Stereo Install need help

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 07:58 PM

Hi,

JB is having a big sale on tomorrow, Ive spotted a nice set of boxed 12" 500Watt RMS subs that I want. Ive never even looked at an amp but Im guessing it will have 2 rca speaker inputs, + and - and a trigger (ACC) wire and 2 rca speaker outputs? If so will a 600 Watt amp (100w x 4, 300W x 2, built in X-overs) (thats straight from the catalogue) power the 2 subs? Am I right in guessing I will need a 1000W amp? Also, can anyone tell me the pinouts on the factory tow package? As I want to tap into the power there. The subs will be in the boot and I just want a bit more doof doof so will this "Audioline" brand be ok? Thanks for any help

Fev · 07-08-2009, 08:16 PM

you dont need one but it will be much more powerful if you can get a 1000wrms amp. It all depends on how much you wanna spend really. For power just run a cable straight from the battery and plug a remote wire into an Acc fuse. the power cable is very easy to set up - just put it straight through a grommet in the fire wall.

Audioline are a cheap brand but i've never had any experience with them so i cant comment. see if you can find some online reviews about them

Trace 347c · 07-08-2009, 08:22 PM

Hi mate, first always go by the rms power rating. Its the true power output or power handeling. The max watts is just a selling point and doesn't mean . Dont hook into your tow package, you need to run a decent size cable straight from your battery, to handle the amperage, current draw and so forth. 8 guage min for an average amp. Mate there is so much more i could go on with, if you want any more advice just pm me. Also you get what you pay for. Kicker subs would have to be the best. If you can find some old school Kicker zr series amps on ebay, buy them you cant beat em, best amps ever built

Trace 347c · 07-08-2009, 08:27 PM

Here is a link mate for ebay, its a old school Kicker Zr 600. This amp will blow the out of any subs, perfect for runnin 2 12's or 2 15's. Hugh power and clean sound

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ZR600-Kicker-...d=p3286.c0.m14

75van · 07-08-2009, 08:37 PM

I wouldn't be using the trailer wires for power either - way under rated for stereo powering. Running the necessary cables from the front of the car to the rear is actually pretty easy in an AU (or a E series if you're looking at changing over). Power straight from the battery via a fuse, accessories from the head unit (you've got to get the speaker connections from behind it anyway), ground the amp near where you install it and you're away. One thing you mentioned is probably not right - you'll have screw terminals for your sub outs, not RCAs.

If you're part of the FPV Club here in Tassie and coming to the AGM I'll bring some photos of teh instal from my EB for you to show you if you like. Glad to help out a fellow Taswegian!

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkeysxr6

I wouldn't be using the trailer wires for power either - way under rated for stereo powering. Running the necessary cables from the front of the car to the rear is actually pretty easy in an AU (or a E series if you're looking at changing over). Power straight from the battery via a fuse, accessories from the head unit (you've got to get the speaker connections from behind it anyway), ground the amp near where you install it and you're away. One thing you mentioned is probably not right - you'll have screw terminals for your sub outs, not RCAs.

If you're part of the FPV Club here in Tassie and coming to the AGM I'll bring some photos of teh instal from my EB for you to show you if you like. Glad to help out a fellow Taswegian!

Thanks for that mate, yeah theres a good chance Im keeping it now as I may have found storage for it. If the AGM Is before the 31st I wont be there unfortunately, I get off my P's at the end off the month and theres no way Im doing the Hobart to Launny trip again at 80kmh. Pushed my luck lasts cruise now its time to play by the rules again.

Now

Is it possible to just get the speaker connections from the speakers up in the parcel shelf go through a line converter into the amp? I think Ive got it worked out now, just really need someone to tell me whether or not this amp will power these subs and whether or not the factory alternator and battery will cope.

75van · 07-08-2009, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAVO_XR

Thanks for that mate, yeah theres a good chance Im keeping it now as I may have found storage for it. If the AGM Is before the 31st I wont be there unfortunately, I get off my P's at the end off the month and theres no way Im doing the Hobart to Launny trip again at 80kmh. Pushed my luck lasts cruise now its time to play by the rules again.

Now

Is it possible to just get the speaker connections from the speakers up in the parcel shelf go through a line converter into the amp? I think Ive got it worked out now, just really need someone to tell me whether or not this amp will power these subs and whether or not the factory alternator and battery will cope.

Being on the P's is annoying, but necessary - don't worry you can go faster soon! AGM is on next Sunday in Longford - see the Club's forum for Tim's writeup.

You can use the line outs from the back speakers to get your signal, but (a) you'll have to drive those speakers form the amp, you can't just piggyback the signal, unless you use a separate line converter, and (b) the amp must accept signal in at speaker level, you can't just wire them to an RCA plug and conenct it to your amp. Lots of amps have speaker level in, so probably won't be an issue. All this will depend on what you buy.

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 09:15 PM

Ok, this is gonna get really annoying for you Im sure but why would I need a separate converter? Do you mean one on each speaker or one on each wire of each speaker? Dont want to take the h/u out because I did in the last AU and it never sitted back in right afterwards.

Trace 347c · 07-08-2009, 09:19 PM

he means high level input on the amp mate, you can put the wires that are supposed to run to the speakers straight into the amp. Only a few amps have this capability. Your other option is a level input convertor, takes the same wires and converts them to an rca and lowers the (output level) so you wont cook your amp

75van · 07-08-2009, 09:23 PM

Nah, not annoying at all!

Some electronic places (such as Jaycar or even JB HiFi) sell converters that handle both the left and the right channels in teh one converter - should be around $30. The one I have used before converts the signal from the speaker level (two wires per channel) into an RCA level output. The reason for doing this is that the RCA voltage is different from the voltage on speaker outputs.

This is also part of the reason you can't use the one pair of wires to drive both the original speakers AND the RCA converter - you will end up with the wrong resistance being placed on the head unit. While this may not be a problem for a little while eventually you will cook the headunit (especially if you get addicted to the output and crank the tunes up!). I don't know if there has been some recent developments in these RCA converters, as I haven't had to instal one for a while. When you go to buy your audio gear and you decide to buy a converter, ask if they have one that either exerts no load on the lines, or has a pass through to continue to power the orignal speakers.

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 09:24 PM

So maybe next time Im in Launn I just pop in to see you monkey? Gotta show my boss the XR anyway and he's in Koringal (sp?) avenue in legana.

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 09:46 PM

Ok yep I got what you said after I read it for the 10th time. Its given me a lot to think about. Thanks for the help Ill ring them tomorrow and ask about the converters.

75van · 07-08-2009, 09:50 PM

No probs! For sure send me a PM a few days before you're in the neighbourhood.

Jack91 · 07-08-2009, 10:02 PM

Yep will do will be the start of Sep so probably the 5th or so. Parents only live at Exeter and I crash there when I go up so yeah. Ill let you know if/what I buy tomorrow. Ill try and find a cash converters in the city even. A few people have suggested them so I might give them a look.

Jack91 · 08-08-2009, 03:12 PM

Ok well I ended up buying a pioneer single 12" sub, got "VCCT" written along the bottom of it and the amp is a JVC no model numbers or pics yet though. I wanted to get the kicker one which was 1000W but at this stage it wouldnt be utilising all of that power anyway so Ill keep the 500 for now and see how it goes. I had ot hooked up to the radio at work and its pretty pumpin', buth the amp and sub only cost $220 too and now theyre all wired ready to go in. Sub only uses 2-3 amps anyway (had it hooked up to regulator). Its got the high input so it will be easy to wire too. Thanks for all the help! Its really simple when you see it in real life.

75van · 08-08-2009, 04:32 PM

Sounds like a good pickup. If you've got a three or four channel amp it'll be easy to make it run both the sub and the rear speakers. If not you may still be able to make it run the rears and sub, just have to do a bit more maths to make sure it will run stable.