The AU throwing hissy fits again!!

FRDGAL · 01-05-2006, 07:50 PM

1) Got in the car today and I could hear a ticking noise, sounded like my indicator was on but it wasn't. So I checked outside to see if an indicator was infact on but it wasn't - it was the brakes and headlights that were flashing. I started the car and even with the car on, it was still ticking and flashing (like an undercover cop car lol) Ok so locked it then unlocked it with the remote and it's fine. (A bit of history though - when my interior light was removed to fit a screen, the alarm would play up and once in a while it would set itself off and I was told it would because the light was missing. But I just had the screen removed, an AU2 premium stereo installed and the interior light put back in) But, it's never done this before as in, not the ticking sound inside and especially not continuing to do so once the car has started.

2) The back door (on the drivers side) would not open from the outside. I had to open it from the inside and then it was fine. But I didn't have problems with it all day until this afternoon. I can hear a strange noise on the drivers side when I lock the car with the remote.

3) If you can smell a huge amount of fuel on start-up and see a big cloud of mist, what does that mean? It's running rich??

Any ideas on what's going on? If anyone knows what's going on with the door, would you know if this is an expensive thing to have fixed?

Oh by the way, for anyone who's had an issue with the (orange trip section) of the dash fading or half fading - I was just about ready to send mine off for a replacement but try what we did. Lightly smack the top of the dash where the fading is. It turned out mine was just the globe and it's now back to normal. So just incase anyone's unit has faded/half faded, give that a try. It might work. It happen to mine on a very hot day during summer so I just assumed it had faded but well, there you go lol.

Cheers
Krissy

GK · 01-05-2006, 07:55 PM

Hope you get it sorted soon Krissy, especially the fuel thing!

Gk

**Stav** · 01-05-2006, 08:01 PM

Sound like a bad earting issue .The sound in the central locking ...does it sound like an electric toothbrush?

FRDGAL · 01-05-2006, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Sound like a bad earting issue .The sound in the central locking ...does it sound like an electric toothbrush?

Yes, sort of like that. A very slow sound though, if that makes sense.

**Stav** · 01-05-2006, 08:11 PM

Firstly the cenral locking motor is shot. The door trim must come off and the motor replaced. Get one from the wreckers. If the car smells like fuel when you try to start it then you get a black cloud then its not tuned right or its giving too much fuel from another fault.If the car smells like fuel when you drive it then you may have a fuel leak so dont smoke. The chattering of the relays may be from the interior light that has blown on your dash.I t may be causing feedback some how .Also check the battery connections at the negative terminal.On the au there are several which connect and if they are loose it can affect the fuel pump as well.

FRDGAL · 01-05-2006, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Firstly the central locking motor is shot. The door trim must come off and the motor replaced. Get one from the wreckers. If the car smells like fuel when you try to start it then you get a black cloud then its not tuned right or its giving too much fuel from another fault. If the car smells like fuel when you drive it then you may have a fuel leak so dont smoke. The chattering of the relays may be from the interior light that has blown on your dash. It may be causing feedback some how. Also check the battery connections at the negative terminal. On the au there are several which connect and if they are loose it can affect the fuel pump as well.

I'll check the terminals in the morning and make sure nothings loose.

Stupid question but I'll ask it anyway. With my idle being pretty furious and making the whole car shake, could the shaking be causing anything to come loose or causing other issues? Because I'm pretty sure it's the shaking that has caused the exhaust rattle. Wondering if maybe it's causing other drama's.

The mist coming from the back is not black and it doesn't smell like fuel while I'm driving but strange thing though. While on the freeway doing 100k's it kept trying to go faster - hard to explain it but it was as if it was lurching forward. It did it a few times. Almost like, you know when you have cruise control on and you press the button to increase speed? That's sort of what it felt like. That was also happening when I was stopped at the lights. I had to press the brake pedal as hard as I could to keep it from creeping but Glenn told me my pads were low so I put it down to that, and on the freeway it felt like it was doing the same thing, trying to lurch forward but that can't have anything to do with my brakes right?

Funny thing though - I drove it tonight and I had no problems with it creeping at standstill or on the freeway so very strange. Completely different to how it acted last night.

Also, is the motor expensive? Do you know roughly what I should expect to pay?

jonbays · 01-05-2006, 09:27 PM

[QUOTE=FRDGAL_AU6] That was also happening when I was stopped at the lights. I had to press the brake pedal as hard as I could to keep it from creeping but Glenn told me my pads were low so I put it down to that, and on the freeway it felt like it was doing the same thing, trying to lurch forward but that can't have anything to do with my brakes right?
QUOTE]

How is the idle set up? The ISC should catch the engine from stalling but not push the idle up that high you have trouble stopping the creep in drive. How how is the idle in neutral and then in drive?

Should be 550-750 rpm if its up at 900 odd it needs tuning and adjustment.

Sounds like the ISC is holding the revs up way too high. back off the idle screw and see if the ISc will catch and hold the ilde then get the idle tune chaged with the edit.

FRDGAL · 02-05-2006, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

How is the idle set up? The ISC should catch the engine from stalling but not push the idle up that high you have trouble stopping the creep in drive. How how is the idle in neutral and then in drive?

Should be 550-750 rpm if its up at 900 odd it needs tuning and adjustment.

Sounds like the ISC is holding the revs up way too high. back off the idle screw and see if the ISc will catch and hold the ilde then get the idle tune chaged with the edit.

Hey mate

It's sitting at the 800 mark in park and hovering at 600-700 in drive. Got a hold of Glenn and he'll check what's going on. As far as it creeping at the lights, he's not too convinced that it's the low brake pads but I'm getting them done anyway. He said it sounds like the is sticking. So we'll see what's going on.

I just started the car now and the smell of fuel is too much. Gonna get the MAP checked aswell which I've been told to do so many times and have always forgotten about it. It's not a happy car at the moment that's for sure. I may have pushed her too hard lol.

FRDGAL · 02-05-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRDGAL_AU6

It's sitting at the 800 mark in park and hovering at 600-700 in drive

Actually, change that. Just got home and in park, it's sitting at 1200rpm and at the shops, when I went from reverse into drive it jumped forward

:

GK · 02-05-2006, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRDGAL_AU6

Actually, change that. Just got home and in park, it's sitting at 1200rpm and at the shops, when I went from reverse into drive it jumped forward

:

Hi ho, hi ho, back to G&D we go!

GK

FRDGAL · 02-05-2006, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Hi ho, hi ho, back to G&D we go!

GK

Yes. I sabotaged the car purposely to get it back there :Up_to_som

Georgie, you're good with price thingy's lol, how much do you think a central locking motor will cost me for the door?

carratt · 02-05-2006, 09:31 PM

hey Krissy. I'm not sure if the central locking motor is the same as the actuator (i think it is though) then you'd be looking at $75 from FTG. It's pretty easy to replace aswell as I just did my second one for my car last week.

GK · 02-05-2006, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carratt

hey Krissy. I'm not sure if the central locking motor is the same as the actuator (i think it is though) then you'd be looking at $75 from FTG. It's pretty easy to replace aswell as I just did my second one for my car last week.

carratt is about right. I only know this because JC gave someone similar advice last week I think.

As for me being good with a price thingy, I don't know where you got that idea from? I just requote others I think! LOL!

Aaahh it's all shared knowledge. People do it so willingly here, I guess that's why I'm so hooked on this place!

GK

FRDGAL · 02-05-2006, 09:44 PM

It's ok. I just got quoted $65 so that's good. Not an expensive fix. Ok so that's one thing less to worry about.

jonbays · 02-05-2006, 09:48 PM

The idle and fuel smell I have reproduced just by putting a stupid value resistance in to the ECU input for my temp sensor when I was keen to build my own interceptor so it could be as simple as a new temp sensor or MAP sensor

GK · 02-05-2006, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

The idle and fuel smell I have reproduced just by putting a stupid value resistance in to the ECU input for my temp sensor when I was keen to build my own interceptor so it could be as simple as a new temp sensor or MAP sensor

Man, jonbays you do some serious tinkering! LOL!

GK

andrewbob · 06-05-2006, 06:54 PM

My car central locking stopped locking one of the doors, i took it to the Auto Electrician and they fixed it but now every time a door is opened or unlocked the central locking cycles through about 4 times (tick-tick, tick-tick), but doesn’t seem to lock a door. :S I took rang them up and told them of the problem and they have no idea. Anyone have any ideas?
--
Andrew Bob