|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
24-05-2005, 10:06 PM | #1 | |||
No longer driving a Ford.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 2,969
|
I was just wondering, what modifications would be best for increasing mid-range (2500rpm to 5000rpm) power and torque.
I thought about posting this in the Escort or the 4 cyl sections, seeing as I am specifically interested in boosting the power that my 2L OHC Pinto in my Escort makes, but then I realised that the methods to achieve this increase would probably be similar for most engines. I know, it may seem stupid to some people, seeing as I'm talking about an engine that can rev to 6 grand and beyond without trouble, but I'm not interested in revving the rings out of my engine, and an increase in power and torque lower in the rev range would be much more useful in day to day driving, I'm not after ultimate power, and I want to keep low rev drivablility as much as possible, and I don't want fuel economy to suffer drastically. I'm guessing getting a aftermarket cam designed to work best at those sort of revs would be a good start (one designed for towing with an auto, so setup for good torque low in the revs, for example), but what else would help, and am I wrong with that idea of the cam? What sort of extractors would help (4-2-1 or 4-1) or would the stock exhaust be better? I'm guessing there woul dbe no real need for changing the carby, but am I wrong? Finally, would I be better off going for more traditional modifications and getting it working better higher in the revs and sacrificing low rev driveability. Thanks.
__________________
Quote:
|
|||
24-05-2005, 10:55 PM | #2 | ||
LPG > You
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 4,277
|
You could also stroke it. Ford made a 2.3litre version of that engine, which powered Fox-Body Mustang's in the 1980's. There was also an SVO, not sure if it was turbo stock or not (I think it was).. but I know of quite a few 750 odd hp 9 sec Fox-Bodies in the 'states using it. But yeah, generally, longer stroke = less revs and more low end/mid range torque.
__________________
LPG Lovers Association President & Member #1. : |
||
25-05-2005, 02:13 AM | #3 | ||
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Best place to start generally is the exhaust, ( this you can do yourself) a good set of extractors, add a two inch exhaust with a free flow muffler.
Next a mild head, either change over or have your own done, this should include the cam and specify you want mid range torque. These mods will give you what you want without breaking the bank and most likely improve your fuel economy (depending on how you drive) Regards Prof. Rabbit |
||
25-05-2005, 09:21 AM | #4 | ||||
No longer driving a Ford.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 2,969
|
Quote:
Regarding the head, do you mean to get it mildly ported? Polishing isn't as important as a little roughness isn't always a bad thing according to the book I have on modifying the OHC by David Vizard, would you agree, or is that more important if the revs are being taken higher on a regular basis? Sounds like what I want is achieveable without spending a small fortune, and if it improves fuel economy, then I'll be more then happy! My driving style (when it comes to when I shift gears) is perhaps more suited to a Falcon then an Escort - I generally shift up somewhere between 2000 and 2500rpm, and generally the only time it reaches 3000rpm is when I'm driving on a freeway, which is of course because it's only got the stock 4 speed in it - one day I plan on putting a 5 speed box in. It doesn't often get much in the way of throttle either - I'd say usually no more then 1/3rd of full throttle. Of course, if I need quicker acceleration (going for a gap in peak hour traffic, for example) I'll let it rev harder and give it more throttle, but the tacho very rarely sees above 4000rpm - I don't like to rev the rings out of my engine (even though it sounds tough above 3500rpm). So given that driving pattern, which I think is already a fairly economical way of driving already, after making those changes I should get better fuel economy, seeing as on the occasions where I actually give it a bit more throttle and let it rev out a bit more, I won't have to give it as much throttle or let it rev as hard as I have to now. And would I be right in suspecting that making those changes would actually be improving the efficiency of the engine? Steffo, yeah, I could stroke it, and I'm not ruling that out, but that sounds much more expensive and time consuming then porting the head, getting an after market cam and a good exhaust setup. Although, having said that, I could always do the cam, head and exhaust first, then stroke it later - with all that done, I'm sure it would be much nicer to drive then a stocker... Ok, final question (for now, lol), could I do it one bit at a time? Say get the extractors and exhaust done first, then later on get the cam (and associated bits) done, then later on have the head pulled off to have it ported? If so, which mod would make the most sense to do first (I'm thinking extractors and exhaust, but I could be wrong)?
__________________
Quote:
Last edited by The MaDDeSTMaN; 25-05-2005 at 09:25 AM. |
||||
25-05-2005, 03:59 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: ACT
Posts: 4,028
|
For the exhaust, go the 4-2-1's. better mid range. I thought that 4-1's was more for top end power.
Do the exhaust first, and see how you like that. Then do the cam... Also, what air filter setup are you running? I found that by changing to an open element setup, it seemed a bit more responsive.
__________________
Current Rides: 2000 AU 5L XLS ute; 1970 Mustang project |
||
25-05-2005, 08:58 PM | #6 | ||||
No longer driving a Ford.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 2,969
|
Quote:
Right now, it's still running the stock air filter, on top of the stock carby. Where would be the best place to get an open element setup from, and how much would it set me back? Sounds like a good idea to me. Did it change the sound of the engine at all, I'm thinking because there would be less to muffle the induction sound, it would be slightly louder, which is fine by me - I love the sound of that engine. Which reminds me, with an open element air filter setup, extractors and a decent exhaust, how loud would the car end up being, and would it have trouble passing the EPA noise test? I don't mind it being loud, as long as it's not so loud that it fails the EPA test.
__________________
Quote:
|
||||
26-05-2005, 08:57 AM | #7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: ACT
Posts: 4,028
|
The open element air filter will give you a bit more induction noise. They should be available from any decent automotive parts retailer. I haven't bought one in a while, but I'd expect it to cost around the $40ish mark.
I'd do the extractors and the exhaust at the same time. The flange from the standard system won't bolt up to the extractors as they are in different spots. The cost of getting the extractors mated up to the standard system, you may as well put towards the new system and get it all done at the same time. As for noise, depends on your exhaust setup... Decent muffler, should be okay. If it is too loud, then add a hotdog.
__________________
Current Rides: 2000 AU 5L XLS ute; 1970 Mustang project |
||
27-05-2005, 12:29 AM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
|
how about a supercharger off a 2litre toyota, cost from a wreckers about 350/400 buks, belt driven cheap horsepower might be worth a go , dont no about economy, but gotta be more ponys
|
||
28-05-2005, 10:27 AM | #9 | |||||
No longer driving a Ford.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 2,969
|
Quote:
Regarding the open element air filter, if I have to pop the hood for the boys in blue, are they likely to give me any grief if I've got one of those? Not that it's any real problem, I could always just put the standard air filter setup back on, but I could do without the hassle if they're going to have a problem with it. I think I might go with the hot dog to start with, just to be on the safe side - I don't mind it being loud, but I don't want it to be so loud I can't drive it without getting pulled over - we are talking about my daily driver here. Quote:
Besides, I can just imagine the look on a policemans face if I popped the hood and he saw a supercharger bolted on there... but maybe that's an idea for the future, along with stroking it... :eclipsee_
__________________
Quote:
|
|||||
28-05-2005, 03:36 PM | #10 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: ACT
Posts: 4,028
|
Quote:
You could also make it look like it belongs there by painting the top and base the same colour as the rocker cover.
__________________
Current Rides: 2000 AU 5L XLS ute; 1970 Mustang project |
|||
30-05-2005, 03:41 AM | #11 | |||
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Yes you will need to do the complete exhaust for the greatest benefit, don't get talked into a mega bucks job you can stick a football into, talk to a couple of professionals about the job and if you feel happy about using a set of spanners buy the parts and fit it yourself.
The "sound" can be matched to your requirments, just ask for a quiet system, no exhaust "needs" to be loud to be efficent. Regards Prof. Rabbit Quote:
|
|||