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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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31-10-2012, 12:37 AM | #31 | |||
Starter Motor
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Thanks a lot mate Wes |
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31-10-2012, 12:43 AM | #32 | |||
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31-10-2012, 12:55 AM | #33 | |||
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31-10-2012, 10:52 AM | #34 | ||
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Extended warranties, whether by the manufacturer or an outside party, are not worth the papaer they are written on. There are so many conditions and exclusions that all they are good for is fleecing customers of their coin.
The only warranty that is able to be enforced by consumer law is the original. You'd be better off putting that $2700 thru the pokies, and that's saying something. |
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31-10-2012, 10:56 AM | #35 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 14
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Hi Wes, Check your PM's.
Thank you |
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31-10-2012, 02:51 PM | #36 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 300
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... hmm, every second hand holden i bought from a holden dealership, has had this warranty, BUT it was included in the price of the car, ie/ i didnt have to pay any extra for it.
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31-10-2012, 03:37 PM | #37 | |||
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31-10-2012, 04:48 PM | #38 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
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Thanks for all the info..
Here's a scanned copy of the AHG warranty and what it covers. It cover's pretty much everything except engine block and head gasket, but that's normal of course. Of course the service charges and cost for parts would be astranomical so it isn't worth it anyway.. Cheers, Wes Hope this works |
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31-10-2012, 05:43 PM | #39 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
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Dealer just let me know that the new car warranty has expired... 2 months ago, unfortunately.
Any way ford would be negotiable in extending it? Wes |
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31-10-2012, 05:54 PM | #40 | ||||
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31-10-2012, 06:09 PM | #41 | |||
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I'd be ringing Ford Customer assistance line and checking to see if the car is still within new car warranty before I'd take out that warranty. seems like a rip off to me $2750 yet only covered for $2000 per claim. ZF box will set you back $6000 or more. |
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31-10-2012, 06:18 PM | #42 | ||
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Location: Pakenham, Victoria
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I bought one once. Got sucked in. Head gasket went and cylinder head cracked. When did it happen? 400k's after I drove it off the lot. It cost me $2500 to fix under warranty?!?! Never again.
Their fix failed again after 40,000k's. Fixed myself for $200 (new gaskets and head bolts) on Boxing day and the car did another 160,000k's faultlessly. A dealer tried to con us to do the same warranty on an XR5 my mrs just bought. He even stated "Ford extended warranty" which it clearly wasn't. Thank crist she didn't do it and pulled the pin on it.
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31-10-2012, 08:34 PM | #43 | ||
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Delt with these company's many many times, I will NEVER take out one of their policy's, wait for the it's not really covered by our policy (but it probably is) but as a gesture of good will we will go 50/50 just pay the service department the 50%, you are then actually paying the complete bill
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31-10-2012, 08:48 PM | #44 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Yeah definitely, agree with you Yeti!
Thus far I have been much anything but satisfied with the pushy, arrogant and annoying service provided by the used car dealers (which I won't mention where). I have no doubt that these people will do everything in their power to squeeze every last cent out of their customers even for a dollar commission. Guess it's up to me to consider whether or not a warranty of some sort is the way to go or if I should just leave it and never have to worry about mods voiding my warranty Wes |
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31-10-2012, 08:55 PM | #45 | ||
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a mate of mine bought a nice second car as a weekender with the extended warranty, it only did a couple of thousand k`s in the first year , he was still expected to have full servicing or warranty voided, food for thought.
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03-11-2012, 01:57 PM | #46 | ||
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Perth
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It might be a better idea to spend a reasonable amount of money on a proper mechanical opinion and preventative maintenance instead of buying an overpriced warranty and service package which may not cover potential repair bills reliably anyway.
The only way a 'warranty company' or an 'insurance company' can make money is to collect more money in premiums than they pay out in repairs or compensation. So on average the more you spend on warranties or insurance the poorer you end up. And the only 'essential' warranty or insurance is for losses that you could never, ever afford to pay yourself, eg. insuring your house against burning down, or having third party car insurance - no way you could cover the cost if you drove into a new Porsche and injured the driver! I suppose one other example of a useful extended warranty might be if K-mart of Officeworks extend the warranty on your flatscreen or laptop for an extra $50 or so. These guys are generally too busy to argue or reject small warranty claims and it would create too much of a scene at the 'refunds counter'. If the extended vehicle warranty costs $2750, and you end up having to spend at least $100 too much every six months over priced servicing over 5 years, then you are looking at an up front cost of $3750 which you may or may not get back. Assuming its a fairly new car and so you only have two big problems in five years, eg. gearbox and diff, then you might be looking at about $5000 of repairs to get all this fixed, and if the insurance company only pays half, as seems to be the case, then you get $2500 back for your $3750 invested, and no choice of repairer. Why not do this instead: - Select lowest mileage car you can afford, - Avoid a car with a tow-bar if its IRS, - Avoid ex rental and fleet and police vehicles if possible, - Consider that a BF Ghia may have had an easier life than a BF XR6, - Get a reputable mechanic to inspect and comment on all the following and tell him that what you want to know is what it will cost to put the car in near perfect condition so that it should give you no trouble for 100,000 kms, and that if his predictions turn out to be correct that you will come to him for repairs that you do need: - Engine condition including proper compression check (I've walked away from a few seemingly very good cars that drove perfectly but were down on compression, - Gearbox and clutch operation, and if its an auto install a separate cooler or new heat exchanger so you don't get coolant in the gearbox one day, - Differential and rear suspension condition including backlash, wear in bushes and driveshafts, - Front suspension and steering components including steering rack, pump, bushes and so on, - Braking system including life left in pads and discs, - Wheels and tyres, in particular life left in tyres, - Major ancillilary systems, in particular air conditioing, - Body shell, i.e poorly repaired damage, any missing or damaged trims, badges, faded 'chrome' and so on, any rust at all (walk away), - Fittings and minor electrical including seats, carpets, roof lining, door seals, anything at all that could make the car appear tired and harder to sell later. Also have all the 'commonly neglected' fluids changed, eg. coolant (make sure it is mixed correctly, and replace every three years or so), power steering fluid, auto fluid and differential oil. This is a lot different from the average 'pre-purchase' inspection where they tell you how much tread is on the tyres and if any indicator bulbs are not working, and the average road worthy where they tell you if the car is safe, as opposed to a safe investment. Obviously you'd have the inspection part done before the changing of fluids and fitting of a trans cooler, and as soon as a single major problem appeared the mechanic would call you and tell you to walk away from the sale. Total cost for all this work assuming five hours to inspect the vehicle and change fluids and fit a transmission cooler would probably be about $500 labour and $400 parts so $900 all up. But you would probably get some additional longevity out of having all the fluids changed, and if a few smaller problems appeared during the inspection, eg. needed new brake rotors, or shocks, or a muffler, or a ball joint, then you could use this to negotiate the price down a bit. And when you sell the car one day you might get a few hundred back based on overall better condition and having a trans cooler. Anyway my two cents :-) |
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03-11-2012, 11:49 PM | #47 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
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All in all some very good advice, thanks a lot mate.
Picking up the car on Monday and I will most definitely look into the transmission cooler. Do you recommend running it in series with the radiator or just directly off of the gearbox. I have heard that running a trans cooler by itself is a good option as it eliminates any risk of the transmission being filled with radiator fluid if there is any core cracking, which of course would require an expensive rebuild. Cheers once again, Wes |
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04-11-2012, 12:10 AM | #48 | |||
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should have been covered by the statutory warranty they used the extended warranty conditions to rip you off which they can't do legally. they are still obligated to cover you under statutory warranty regardless of what extra warranty you take out
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04-11-2012, 12:47 PM | #49 | ||
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Regarding the trans cooler, you need to bypass the radiator in this case at least. Main, or most important, reason for fitting it is lake you were saying, to stop the coolant getting into the oil if the radiator cracks on the inside.
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04-11-2012, 03:39 PM | #50 | ||
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I wonder what reasons well qualified people without "watermelons" are given as to why they don't get the job...
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04-11-2012, 04:06 PM | #51 | ||||
Starter Motor
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04-11-2012, 06:12 PM | #52 | ||
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Perth
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As far as I know the FGs use a separate water to oil heat exchanger mounted on the side of the block, so there are water hoses on one end, and oil hoses in the other. Possibly more durable than the old system, but at the end of the day you still have oil and water in close proximity in what is in effect a small radiator. I'm pretty sure I have read somewhere about one of these failing, with the same outcome as the radiator failing, can't remember where though.
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05-11-2012, 10:26 AM | #53 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 439
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You can get the wty here for the same thing that you pay $3k grand for
http://www.roadcheck.com.au/?gclid=C...arranties/cuy0 I bought the wty a while back thing the same as you, what if this went wrong and what if that goes wrong and i'm up for a afew grand worth of repairs so i bought the wty cost me $1470 cos the car was under 60,000km. About 8 mths down the track there is a few things that went wrong on my car, oxygen sensor, another thing is the abs brake sensor or booster. So i thought oh lucky me i have the extended wty insurance for peace of mind so i rang the hotline ( this is the worst experience i have ever had in my whole life, they treat you like crap ) I tell them what happen they say they don't cover it!!! I was like WTF you don't cover it they say yes we don't and hang up on me??? The best is to give this a big miss for me i would. |
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