Reasons Not to let people drive your cars. - Page 3

**Gothefalcon** · 23-02-2013, 11:07 AM

I've had my 98 NL 5.0 since new.... in all that time, only two other people have driven it ! My Mechanic (Who is a Ford nut with a few "special" Fords of his own).... and one of my closest friends... and even then it was only because we were on a trip back from Perth-Adelaide... and I needed a break for a few hours! Other than that.... everyone else who has asked for a drive has been told "No!" Even my mates, who's cars have been off the road for a few weeks whilst they get fixed, have asked to borrow it (as it is my 2nd car) and they get told "No!" I service and mantaine it properly of course... but for this reason alone... I believe it's why my Fairlane stills drives like new !

Very sorry to hear your sad tale... Even though your Mate has offered to pay for the fix... He shouldn't have "borrowed" your car without your permission ! I've been using my mates workshop for many years, to work on my car... I even have my own key... but I still call him to let him know when I'm coming over... and again when I'm done ! It's just a simple courtesy !

D

EF_Shark · 23-02-2013, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6WGN

I've always believed that the bottom end of a Tickford motor was the same as every other and all the modifications were in the head, fuel pressure regulator and ECU.

I was just looking at the position of the oil pressure switch - hmm mine is playing up and needs replacing - that's going to be an interesting job with the head and inlet manifold in place. Might be better to leave it until the next service and get it from underneath on a hoist.

What you have been forced to do is something I would love to do to mine - my head was done last year but now I'm noticing blue/grey smoke under acceleration - I'm thinking AUIII bottom end maybe.

It can be done without it being on a hoist because I've had to replace one already but it's interesting to say the least.
If i recall you remove the aircleaner box and find a tube socket of the correct size then a uni joint then a 4 inchish extension rod and a stubby ratchet. Then you can squeeze the whole lot under the manifold, it's easier if it's an EF or AU as there is no distributor but it can be done just wait until the engine is cold. Also they break fairly easy where the plastic joins the metal part of it.

EF_Shark · 18-03-2013, 11:19 PM

Hey Dude I don't have to put updates here about the rebuild but i'm hoping some others might gain something from it and maybe have a go at some of the awesomeness going into my engine themselves.

Now i've cleared the air I have the head back now all ported out and decked 20thou.
It needed a few repairs around some of the water jackets but the porting looks really nice and should help add some pony's.
Also a Vernier cam gear has been ordered and I spent today cleaning up the block for some paint and the refitting of the hardware.

EF_Shark · 23-07-2014, 10:55 PM

OK! So it's been ages since I updated it but the old girl is back together and run in and I had it dyno tuned last week. Next time i'm back i'll scan the chart but it ran 158rwkw and 370rwNM so not a bad result. Maybe more to be had by advancing the cam as it's still at 0 degree's but there isn't alot more easyish ponies to be had short of going to a serious cam like a wade 977B. Does run heaps smoother and isn't running filthy rich anymore so thats a gain.

Franco Cozzo · 23-07-2014, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Shark

OK! So it's been ages since I updated it but the old girl is back together and run in and I had it dyno tuned last week. Next time i'm back i'll scan the chart but it ran 158rwkw and 370rwNM so not a bad result. Maybe more to be had by advancing the cam as it's still at 0 degree's but there isn't alot more easyish ponies to be had short of going to a serious cam like a wade 977B. Does run heaps smoother and isn't running filthy rich anymore so thats a gain.

Nice, mine made 138KW at the rears with CMS Stage 3 head and 2a cam, but my bottom end has low comp across all 6, I'm hoping to make similar power to yours with a wrecker bottom end in good nic.

EF_Shark · 23-07-2014, 11:03 PM

Mine had all new rings, bearings and gaskets while it was apart. The AU gasket and decking it 20 thou bumped compression a bit and it was tuned for 98RON. Before the tune in parts of the rev range it was running 12.0 AFR so you could see the fuel out the exhaust...

XR6WGN · 23-07-2014, 11:49 PM

Welcome back and it's good to see that it all worked out well in the end.

It's Tax Cheque time soon so I've got some thinking to do in regards to my motor, it's the cold, winter mornings that it doesn't like (just like me

) even if I give it a couple of minutes to warm up - it still smokes quite heavily for a couple of minutes. To me it points to valve guides or stem seals but the head was completely rebuilt! That's what is leading me to think it's a worn piston ring!!

Was it just the sump modification needed to fit the AU block??

Franco Cozzo · 23-07-2014, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Shark

Mine had all new rings, bearings and gaskets while it was apart. The AU gasket and decking it 20 thou bumped compression a bit and it was tuned for 98RON. Before the tune in parts of the rev range it was running 12.0 AFR so you could see the fuel out the exhaust...

Same here, J3 tuned for 98, AU MLS gasket, hopefully I get something similar power wise

LTDHO · 24-07-2014, 07:47 AM

My question.
Have you fitted a kill switch?
;-)

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTDHO

My question.
Have you fitted a kill switch?
;-)

Not as such but the keys live in a secure location.

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 12:54 PM

Trying to scratch my head about a solution to the LPG mixer. The 158kw was made without it in place but it sucks about 15-20kw when it is there. I have a feeling unless it's an injected setup thats just the price of it being there.
Has anyone ran a gas research carby as a throttlebody with decent results?

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6WGN

Welcome back and it's good to see that it all worked out well in the end.

It's Tax Cheque time soon so I've got some thinking to do in regards to my motor, it's the cold, winter mornings that it doesn't like (just like me

) even if I give it a couple of minutes to warm up - it still smokes quite heavily for a couple of minutes. To me it points to valve guides or stem seals but the head was completely rebuilt! That's what is leading me to think it's a worn piston ring!!

Was it just the sump modification needed to fit the AU block??

I'm not sure because I used an EL tickford long motor I managed to find at a reasonable price. Rebuilding the bottom end wasn't actually too bad but you really need an engine crane and stand and a copy of the workshop manual.

MattSAU2XR8 · 24-07-2014, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Shark

Trying to scratch my head about a solution to the LPG mixer. The 158kw was made without it in place but it sucks about 15-20kw when it is there. I have a feeling unless it's an injected setup thats just the price of it being there.
Has anyone ran a gas research carby as a throttlebody with decent results?

That's about what I'd expect with a mixer being there, details in my old thread below.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11313246

Only way to get around the restriction properly is gas injection, but his is a whole lot more complexity and I can foresee a time when LPG will cost near as much as petrol per energy content at the bowser - mostly because it is an attractive heating fuel for houses. If you take the tax away then I think LPG is already dearer than petrol per energy content. I'd probably just use up the gas, remove the mixer only, seal the lines, and then think about what to do next for a year or two. Certainly no point doing cams and head work and having a mixer, and with gas getting dearer probably not worth converting to LPI.

Franco Cozzo · 24-07-2014, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Shark

I'm not sure because I used an EL tickford long motor I managed to find at a reasonable price. Rebuilding the bottom end wasn't actually too bad but you really need an engine crane and stand and a copy of the workshop manual.

Did you have the block bored/honed? I've got a standard size rebuild kit here with new rings, pistons and rods, I'm assuming if the block is good its just a case of honing and in go the new stuff?

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Damo

Did you have the block bored/honed? I've got a standard size rebuild kit here with new rings, pistons and rods, I'm assuming if the block is good its just a case of honing and in go the new stuff?

Yeah if the block is ok with no big score marks or bad glazing like the pics at the start of the thread a simple hone is all it will need. The blocks are fairly sturdy.

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattSAU2XR8

That's about what I'd expect with a mixer being there, details in my old thread below.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11313246

Only way to get around the restriction properly is gas injection, but his is a whole lot more complexity and I can foresee a time when LPG will cost near as much as petrol per energy content at the bowser - mostly because it is an attractive heating fuel for houses. If you take the tax away then I think LPG is already dearer than petrol per energy content. I'd probably just use up the gas, remove the mixer only, seal the lines, and then think about what to do next for a year or two. Certainly no point doing cams and head work and having a mixer, and with gas getting dearer probably not worth converting to LPI.

Yeah i'd almost reached that conclusion, 72 litres of LPG got me around 500-550kms but with the price being what it is and the extra you use it just doesn't seem as worth it as it used to. To maintain 110kph on petrol now is literally resting your foot on the go pedal a tiny bit.

XR6WGN · 24-07-2014, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Shark

I'm not sure because I used an EL tickford long motor.

Just read back through the three pages and I see now that you did indeed use an EL Tickford motor - should have read it better. I've been talking to my long time mechanic who said they can pull the motor and strip it down, machine it and reassemble but it would be over a couple of weeks as it would be done in between their normal jobs. I'm quite comfortable with this but just need to pick some time when I don't need the car. (Could tidy up the engine bay at the same time I guess)

EF_Shark · 24-07-2014, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6WGN

Just read back through the three pages and I see now that you did indeed use an EL Tickford motor - should have read it better. I've been talking to my long time mechanic who said they can pull the motor and strip it down, machine it and reassemble but it would be over a couple of weeks as it would be done in between their normal jobs. I'm quite comfortable with this but just need to pick some time when I don't need the car. (Could tidy up the engine bay at the same time I guess)

It's worth it man, after the rebuild it will have another 250,000kms of life to live!

EF_Shark · 04-10-2014, 10:52 PM

End results were pretty good for a mild wade cam. Probably needs to be degreed but by the seat of the pants it pulls really well. The green line is with the gas mixer still on and a few of the ECU tweeks were not finished and the green line was the final tune without the gas mixer.