N.S.W Rego Check Criteria

[Philbo]

Howdy All,

It's that time of year again... the ute's due for REGO...(in N.S.W)
I've got a general idea of what they look at and check, but im curious to see if theres a list of criteria that is avalible to the public about what exactly they check and whats considered non-passable. Ive been crusing around the internet trying to find something, but so far no joy. Anybody know of anything floating around that could help?

Cheers Phil

[eXtremist]

I wouldn't know of any, but the most important things would be;

Indications
* Head Lights
* Tail Lights
* Fender Indicators

Safety
* Seat Belts
* Air bag Light
* Brakes

Engine
* Engine Light
* Quiet engine
* No oil leaking

Also, make sure that your plates are not worn and visible.

If you are going for pink slip, the examiner will need to take off and brake as fast as they can to check that the brakes are good.

All-in-all, make sure there are no "noticeable" problems.

Add tyres to that list. ;)

[eXtremist]

Ohh yea, I knew I forgot something.

[The Yeti]

mate if youve got 4 good tyres and all your lights work your 2/3 there make sure you have no dirping oil leaks and assuming its a falcon ute ball joints, tie rod end, pitman and Ideler arm are things to look for but there generaly pretty bad before they knock you back

[Falcon_Phill]

They also hate rust, they made me fix that up.

[Mental]

Speaking of tie-rod ends and the like, make sure the rubber boots are in good nick.

Add to your list of things to check:
Hazards
Heater
Washer bottle and nozzles
handbrake
windscreen for excess sandblasting or pitting
wire ties on all front end suspension nuts (that have the provision for it)
that your seats adjust without excessive force


Make sure you give your engine bay a thorough blasting, if you do have oil leaks, clean everything up and do so again a couple of blocks away from where your taking it in ;p pray there not so bad that they leak before you park it again.

Even if they don't check any of the above, you'll be much better off having checked and repaired those points anyway.

[samsy351]

Just a bit sideways off topic : what about when a new engine is fitted. You need a blue slip for the engine, (not a full car blue slip, just one for the new block) What do they look for when they blue slip an engine?

[Flouro_Joe]

Wherever I take mine they always seem to move the front seat backs back and forth to check for wear in the seat recliner mechanisms.
For an engine blue slip they check the engine number and make sure it is an approved engine for that car. You will also need to present a recipt for the engine block at the RTA. Officially it's called an adjustment of records.

[Philbo]

Thanks Everybody, i think the only problem i have is an oil leak from between the sump and the block... which hopefully i can clean up the evidence enough to get me through. Just a quick guestion on that, is there anyway to take the sump off without removing the engine?

When cleaning the engine bay, whats the best method? Cover up the electrics and get in there with some degreeser and a hose?

Anyways, thank for everything folks.

[Philbo]

Oh yeah, forgot to tell ya,

I went to the place where im getting the rego done about 2 weeks ago, just to book in and i wanted to ask what they're position on rust was.... the fella answered back "the same as the R.T.A's". If theres a hole in the rusty pannel, ill fail ya!

It doesent seem that funny but the way i asked and his response made me out to seem rather a dodgey character...

My left hand sill was full of the stuff and had quite a few holes in it, so she's currently gettin surgery. Hopefully she'll be off the operating table by sunday arvo, but with this rain in Newcastle, i doubt it. When i was talkin to the fella who's doing the operation, he said its more common to have the rust form on in the left side than the right hand side... due to parking in the gutter i.e. car is tilting to the left. I honestly didn't think it would have made that much of a difference.

Anyways thats my two cents, thanks again for all your comments.

[Flouro_Joe]

Originally Posted by Philbo

Thanks Everybody, i think the only problem i have is an oil leak from between the sump and the block... which hopefully i can clean up the evidence enough to get me through. Just a quick guestion on that, is there anyway to take the sump off without removing the engine?

What motor is it? For a Clevo you need to support the weight of the motor and remove the bolts through the engine mounts. Then you can raise the motor up a bit and put a couple of blocks of wood between both halves of the engine mounts. This will give you enough clearance to remove the sump. Ford manual tells you to do it like this.

[Philbo]

It's just the standad 4.0L in line 6. I think the only viable option is to take the engine out and do what i gotta do... it's just a bit of a s.o.b to to take out... just for a stupid lil oil leak.

[shedguy]

Originally Posted by Flouro_Joe

What motor is it? For a Clevo you need to support the weight of the motor and remove the bolts through the engine mounts. Then you can raise the motor up a bit and put a couple of blocks of wood between both halves of the engine mounts. This will give you enough clearance to remove the sump. Ford manual tells you to do it like this.

Dude ... it's an XH .... if it's got a Clevo ... I'LL BUY IT! (Cheap - 'cos I know it's got rust!! :evil3: )

Philbo ... - it's easy ... play honest and fair and most guy's will give you a fair run! I took the ol' girl in a few years back ( she'd been in a carport for 7 years : !!) and I told the guy what I'd done - brakes; lights; front end rubbers etc and let him do his thing. He pinged me on some rust (which he told me to bog up!), 1 tyre and a gearbox mount ..... I let him fix the tyre and g/b mount (could'a done it myself **small hint**!!) and he was sweet!

Just give it a pressure wash before you take it in ... most guys don't care if they can't see it!!

[Philbo]

Howdy all,

Picked the ute up today from the bloke who did my sills, all the rust is gone, and shes ready for rego in that reguard. He did a great job too.

I just have a quick question about seatbelts for rego, my drivers side belt doesnt retract very well, its firm when your driving but when getting out it just sits there like a limp....you know what. Is this a problem for rego? Any suggestions to make it work again? (just for a few hours) I gave the ratchet mechanisim a couple of shots of WD-40 but didn't do much for it.

Cheers Folks

[merlin]

Hmm I just got rego for the car - the guy walked around the outside, had a quick look at the tyres and noted the odometer. That was it, literally took 45 seconds plus another 2 minutes for him to electronically send it to the RTA. He did not even start the car or check the lights, indicators, brakes ect.

No it wasn't a mate, yes I have been to different places with the same result (with the bike) and no not saying the shop name, as dont want to get anyone into trouble. My only thought is some places pass you a lot easier than others.

[naughtyfalcon]

Originally Posted by Flouro_Joe

For an engine blue slip they check the engine number and make sure it is an approved engine for that car. You will also need to present a recipt for the engine block at the RTA. Officially it's called an adjustment of records.

not so with the receipt,we changed from the 3.9 to the 4 and never once were asked for a receipt,even at the rta.

[samsy351]

Originally Posted by naughtyfalcon

not so with the receipt,we changed from the 3.9 to the 4 and never once were asked for a receipt,even at the rta.

So do they check for leaks or wiring issues , or do they just check engine number? How much does this normally cost?

[naughtyfalcon]

the blue slip is solely for the purpose of checking the engine is not stolen and can be fitted to a particular type of vehicle,our blue slip was the price of a pink slip,,i think now they would be about $30.