|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-06-2012, 07:48 PM | #1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 234
|
Gday guys and gals,
CAR: AUII Fairmont Ghia 2001, 4.0L; Located in Newcastle, NSW. PROBLEM 1: the bypass tube is rusting at its connection to the back of water pump. Probably could snap off anytime and I could lose all coolant very quickly (then the engine suffers Death by dehydration). PROBLEM 2: apparently this bypass tube (EF18663A) is no longer stocked by Ford and I cant find a new one anywhere. (Item advertised at Covs Parts n/a; cant see any on ebay) PROBLEM 3: 2nd hand tubes do not seem a good option. PROBLEM 4: Apparently it is a cow of a job and expensive to replace such a low cost part. Is it just a matter of R/R the manifold for access? One person said 'engine out'. I presentlyhave the transmission out if that helps. PROBLEM 5: As you can figure, I am no mechanic. Can you please help with advice on any of the following, or any other matter you see relevant ... A) location of new tube to purchase. B) wisdom or not in using 2nd hand tube. C) alternative route for home-made tube. D) prospect of a modification to BA, BS tube (AU318863) as suggested by Ford Spares interpreter. Would really appreciate your guidance here. Thanks. Peter. |
||
12-06-2012, 09:16 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
|
had an inspection of mine recently to do a water pump, it was ok, but i never really liked the way it goes into the back of the water pump, it occurred to me at the water pump end , it might not be too hard to get a piece of tube/ or sleeve (or even a few) cut and machined if needed so it would be a nice tight fit with a bit of goop, and then connect it onto the rest of the pipe with a bit of rubber hose and a couple of hose clamps, to me that would be a much nicer connection , as for the rest of the tube a nice bit of re fabricated stainless tube would be a bit of alright if you wanted to go to that trouble............. it was just a thought.
Edit: have you tried repco for the tube?, i don`t know if they would have one , but it might be worth a try. Last edited by mik; 12-06-2012 at 09:23 PM. Reason: add |
||
12-06-2012, 09:31 PM | #3 | |||
not here much anymore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
|
Quote:
I think try another dealer - Bayford Parts in Melbourne has an Ebay store and can generally find and list whatever part you're after, they would be my first port of call. Quick postage too. If you can't get one from them try all the usual auto stores unless you have already.
__________________
2024 F150 XLT
|
|||
12-06-2012, 10:13 PM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brighton, Adelaide
Posts: 3,972
|
if you couldnt adapt a BA heater pipe,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...item2eb9714879 as posted above, if you were to cut the pipe a few inches back from the water pump, then tap the back of the pump to suit a screw in barb fitting. then just run a rubber heater hose between the 2 ends. then just run a rubber hose between the 2x ends
__________________
Money Talks, but all i ever hear is it saying Goodbye!! |
||
13-06-2012, 08:20 AM | #5 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 25
|
I done exactly as my67xr new water pump tapped thread with a barb fitting and 4 high quality hose clamps 2 each end just to be sure worked for 80000km while I had it and was still going strong
|
||
13-06-2012, 04:11 PM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 234
|
Thanks for everyone's thoughts, which have been very helpful. Especially good to know of solutions that dont require removing the whole pipe.
I am going to look further into the barbed fitting and clamped hose solution, thinking it is probably the most suitable, and serviceable approach. Special thanks to my67xr and to chrisvess (nice ot know the success of such an approach). I am going to post a question about choice of water pumps now, if any care to comment. Thanks again. Peter |
||
13-06-2012, 07:23 PM | #7 | ||
LIFELONG DJR SUPPORTER
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CENTRAL QUEENSLAND
Posts: 5,324
|
4.0l in au doesn't do death by dyhadration!
__________________
|
||
13-06-2012, 11:09 PM | #8 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 234
|
Found the following post which gives a different and useful perspective on the heater tube problem ...
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11367396 |
||
26-06-2012, 04:40 PM | #9 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 588
|
Quote:
|
|||
08-12-2013, 10:48 PM | #10 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,524
|
__________________
regards Blue |
||