Headlight Restoration

[Polyal]

Was wondering if anyone had any good/bad experience with headlight restoration kits?

Ive seen links for people using anything from toothpaste to high end kits but was curious to hear from anyone here who has used them with success.

Or, I have been quoted $60 per side for a "pro" to have a go.

Any links to successful products would be appreciated. The Repco kit below has been recommended thus far. in particular the requirement for a sealant;

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...light%20restor

[mad2]

Originally Posted by Polyal

Was wondering if anyone had any good/bad experience with headlight restoration kits?

Ive seen links for people using anything from toothpaste to high end kits but was curious to hear from anyone here who has used them with success.

Or, I have been quoted $60 per side for a "pro" to have a go.

Any links to successful products would be appreciated. The Repco kit below has been recommended thus far. in particular the requirement for a sealant;

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...light%20restor

ask Linz as he is the 'god' re headlights

[Itsme]

I have done some restoration years ago with an EL falcon by using wet & dry sand paper from 1200 up to 2000 grit then using Autosol metal polish for final finish which gave the headlights "that new look" which certainly works.
This was done on my daughters car when the headlights were deemed unworthy with them looking terribly faded.
Search through AFF as there is topic on headlight restoration as this is where I got my info from.

[oldel]

Kit's aren't much good (unless you have nothing - then you'll still need to buy a buffer etc).

There's a few threads around with everything to a 6 step process, to just a 1 step 15 sec wipe with acetone.
What you need depends on how far gone it is. Rough and thick layers of yellowing you need to start with 800grit wet
If it's smoother and not so bad start with 1000 grit or 1200 grit
then 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000grit if you can get it *(sanding each in a different direction, each stage you are just sanding the previous coarser papers scratch marks out, sanding different direction allow you to see the previous scratch marks better and to know when to stop and move on)

Finish with a machine buffer (so need the tool and a 2 or 3" foam pad and cutting compound and then polishing compound). *If you can't get 3000grit start with a medium/coarse cutting compound, if you used 3000grit you could probably go straight to a polish or something like meguire's ultimate compound.

Clear coat spray (or regularly wax them).

E: If you don't already have all the above laying around, if a pro quoted $60 it will be the cheaper option. Though I'd remove the headlights at least and let a pro do it properly (all the way to the edges, no chance of acrylic clear coat over spray)
Buying kits is probably the most expensive way to go about it half arsed.

[ivorya]

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/ca...storation-kits

I was thinking of giving the cheaper Turtle wax one ago.

[Crazy Dazz]

The problem with "Kits" is that they promote the idea of simplicity. That you buy the magic kit, follow their easy steps, and voila..
In reality all the kits do is give you the tools you'll probably need.

It basically comes down to three steps:

1. Remove the damaged surface
2. Polish the Surface
3. Apply sealer

What you do for each step, and how far you go, really comes down to the extent of the damage, how perfect you want it, and how much elbow grease you have available.

I achieved a passable result (on lenses that weren't super bad, using a mixture of toothpaste, baking soda, and an electric toothbrush.

If the yellowing is bad, you can start with wet'n'dry, and carefully hand sand. (Don't be tempted to use a disk) In theory you can start as course as you feel comfortable with, and work your way up, but personally I wouldn't feel confident going with anything less than 1200. Once you've gone as fine as you can go, use something like a lambswool pad to buff it.
Alternatively you can use some form of cutting paste.

Once you're satisfied with the finish, a sealer will fill any micro-scratches, and provide lasting protection. (But obviously sealing a sub-par surface, will just seal-in the scratches and damaged surface.)
If you're not comfortable using a spray lacquer, you could also use a clear wax.

[arm79]

I tried this Philips one with pretty reasonable success.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/produc...estoration-kit

Even though it says only can be sent in UK they still sent me one. Get another 20% off onto of the already discounted price too. Fast delivery too.

The cleaning liquids supplied are pretty good, they get alot of rubbish by themselves. Pretty skimpy on the amount of sandpaper provided though. I stocked up on some wet and dry before I started.

I bought this one because it was the only kit at the time that included a UV protectant at the finishing step. Seems the UV protectant is a bit more common now.

But regardless of what kit you buy, make sure it has some sort of UV protectant as the final step. Otherwise the lights will go yellow in 6 to 12 months time again. Wax doesn't cut it like some people try to claim.

Even then, overall, its not a long term solution.

[Crazy Dazz]

Originally Posted by arm79

Otherwise the lights will go yellow in 6 to 12 months time again.

Only if they were exceptionally poor quality knockoffs to begin with. The worst example was getting a headlight replaced after an accident, and the "new" (aftermarket) headlight ended up looking worse than the remaining original.

Originally Posted by arm79

I bought this one because it was the only kit at the time that included a UV protectant at the finishing step. Seems the UV protectant is a bit more common now. But regardless of what kit you buy, make sure it has some sort of UV protectant as the final step.

Unfortunately "UV Protection" is one of those nebulous undefined claims than can be made about anything. Literally any substance will provide some level of UV protection.

When in doubt, I tend to go with reputable quality.
If you are completely satisfied with the finish, then I would recommend a coat of Dulux Duramax.

[T3rminator]

Originally Posted by oldel

Clear coat spray (or regularly wax them).

Never considered that. Would that affect how the light is distributed past the lens?

[my67xr]

I have rubbed back and polished a few set's of light's over the year's
I give the polished lense a couple of light coat's of plastic adhesion primer, then a couple of 2K clear coat's for long life

This stuff last's for a while too and is cheap https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-h...n-kit_p0191116

[gkhn]

Better to replace the whole headlight.
It will be perfect then

[Citroënbender]

This fellow’s video shows the different effects of clearcoat and films on a re-polished lens.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG54xt56uZo

[gkhn]

By the time you buy those products, you can get a new headlight assembly.
I like the protection film but it is $53 for a piece of clear film..
It also depends on your make and model.
If your car has one of those smart headlights which cost around $1000 per headlight, then you may give this method a go.

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

This fellow’s video shows the different effects of clearcoat and films on a re-polished lens.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG54xt56uZo

[Citroënbender]

I’ve got two cars with essentially irreplaceable polycarbonate lenses, so the film cost isn’t a big deal by comparison.

[gkhn]

Makes sense in that case.
If you do get a new headlight assembly, better to get films as well then as it seems to be the best option..
Or if you want to protect your existing (non-yellow stained) factory ones.
I just carnauba wax mine every time I wash it. They seem to be ok so far except the little rock chips...

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

I’ve got two cars with essentially irreplaceable polycarbonate lenses, so the film cost isn’t a big deal by comparison.

[arm79]

Originally Posted by gkhn

By the time you buy those products, you can get a new headlight assembly.
I like the protection film but it is $53 for a piece of clear film..
It also depends on your make and model.
If your car has one of those smart headlights which cost around $1000 per headlight, then you may give this method a go.

Actually it seems the stuff he is using is only $40 for both lights.

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/al...x1-5mm-2pc-lsg

[roKWiz]

Where did it all go wrong, older stuff never had this problem, bust a 5-7in sealed beam and replace it with a cheap locally made new one.

Mind you we couldn't see anything driving in the dark anyway.

[T3rminator]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

This fellow’s video shows the different effects of clearcoat and films on a re-polished lens.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG54xt56uZo

Had a spare can of clear coat, was thinking about it. But that's what I was afraid of. Refraction was the word.

[roKWiz]

Originally Posted by T3rminator

Had a spare can of clear coat, was thinking about it. But that's what I was afraid of. Refraction was the word.

Wouldn't the clear yellow after awhile ?
Don't know never done newer headlights.

[T3rminator]

Originally Posted by roKWiz

Wouldn't the clear yellow after awhile ?
Don't know never done newer headlights.

Hmmm dunno.

Actually, looking back at that video, he didn't sand and polish after clear coating. When applying clear to car paint, you need to sand and polish to bring out the shine. I wonder if that will improve the refraction issue.

[Citroënbender]

Acrylic or nitro clears (1K) will discolour much quicker than a good 2K.

I’d say that the chemical bond happening between the clear (any type) and the PC lense, will also generate refraction. It matters less with car body paint when used on car parts as we’re not looking through it like a window; in one side and out the other.

It makes sense to me, that the RI of a clear film is closer than any regular clear coat, to that of a PC lense.