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Old 14-11-2006, 08:55 PM   #1
richo77
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Default Problems after reset

Hey guys,

Need some qualified advice please -

AU XR8 III Auto

CD Stacker jammed so I disconnected the battery and reconnected it, result unjammed CD stacker.

Car ran rough on reconnection so i did the reset procedure as described here.

Problem is the car is not running as well as it used to. The car starts well but when I move the selector to put it into reverse the revs drop to about 500 and then quickly rise up again when when it is locked into reverse.

Also after the car has been in Drive and then put into neutral it stalls most of the time. Any ideas what the problem is here and how to rectify without visiting Ford?

Cheers
Nathan

Also lately its becoming very difficult to hot start after being off for a short period of time. I'm not sure that this is related to the battery being disconnected.

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Old 14-11-2006, 09:02 PM   #2
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My car did the same thing with stock ecu settings and cam.The idle went to buggery. The computer has to relearn all of the wear and tear of the car to run properly again.Give it a week to hopefully get back to normal.
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Old 14-11-2006, 09:02 PM   #3
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They take awhile after being disconnected to come good again they can sometimes need a fair few kays to relearn before they idle etc well, I dunno about the hot start issue but they can be a bit grumpy about starting without a bit of throttle sometimes.
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Old 14-11-2006, 10:25 PM   #4
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I've also found that mine does exactly the same sort of things when i disconnect the battery, and it can also be a bit of a pain when hot starting.
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Old 15-11-2006, 11:36 AM   #5
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Thanks guys, its been nearly a week since i've reset it and its still not right, will give it another week to settle and see what happens.
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Old 15-11-2006, 01:42 PM   #6
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be thankful it isnt stalling haha

when i got a new battery in my old ED. it use to just stall. so embarrassing stalling an Auto :
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:38 PM   #7
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Hey guys,

Well its been a month or so and my XR still has issues with stalling out 4/5 times when put into neutral and occasional misfiring at a steady 2000rpms.. its not using excessive fuel (I got 700kms from the tank from a spirited drive into Kalgoorlie yesterday) and doesnt feel like its lost any power so i'm stuck as to what to check next..

Any ideas what i should be looking for? It still has the original leads on it, could this be an issue?

Cheers
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:50 PM   #8
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and all you did prior to this issue was disconnect the battery?
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:52 PM   #9
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The usual suspects:

dirty MAF
dirty ISC valve
blocked fuel filter
leads
plugs
etc etc

Clean/replace as necessary. I'd start at the top of the list and work down. I have a cheap brand new set of leads I could send you. $100 and they're all yours - they work fine for petrol, but no good for gas.
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Last edited by JC; 03-01-2007 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:07 PM   #10
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Hey man just reset the computer again by disconnecting the battery negative terminal, turn key on and hold the brake for ten seconds,hook up the battery and start it and do the relearn.If that doesnt sort it there could be another problem?
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:37 PM   #11
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mine has these systems on and off. will do it for a month or two then be fin for a while then sick again... all the same symptoms described, and mines an auto forte.

i did all of JC's checklist and it really hasen't fixed buggery, except the fact that most these parts needed the clean and replacements anyways.

next step, a 1/4 million $ visit to ford to have the forte plugged into the matrix...
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
and all you did prior to this issue was disconnect the battery?

Yes was running great before battery disconnect, ever since then having the problems.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angryboy
Hey man just reset the computer again by disconnecting the battery negative terminal, turn key on and hold the brake for ten seconds,hook up the battery and start it and do the relearn.If that doesnt sort it there could be another problem?

I havent heard of turning the key and holding the brakes before.. where do you know this from angryboy??
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
The usual suspects:

dirty MAF
dirty ISC valve
blocked fuel filter
leads
plugs
etc etc

Clean/replace as necessary. I'd start at the top of the list and work down. I have a cheap brand new set of leads I could send you. $100 and they're all yours - they work fine for petrol, but no good for gas.

Hi JC, had a quick search on cleaning MAF and couldnt find anything, is there a tutorial on how to do this??
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richo77
Hi JC, had a quick search on cleaning MAF and couldnt find anything, is there a tutorial on how to do this??
It's pretty easy. Just a thought - did you do a reset because you installed a K&N or other simlar "oiled" filter? If so, then I'm strongly betting on the MAF wires being covered in oil.

Easiest way to clean the wires is to carefully wipe them with a cotton bud covered in carby clean. Do NOT break the wires though. Maybe just spray the wires with Carby clean and then lightly go over them with a cotton bud, then put the MAF back into the intake and start her up.
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

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Old 03-01-2007, 08:19 PM   #16
richo77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
It's pretty easy. Just a thought - did you do a reset because you installed a K&N or other simlar "oiled" filter? If so, then I'm strongly betting on the MAF wires being covered in oil.

Easiest way to clean the wires is to carefully wipe them with a cotton bud covered in carby clean. Do NOT break the wires though. Maybe just spray the wires with Carby clean and then lightly go over them with a cotton bud, then put the MAF back into the intake and start her up.

It does have a K&N panel filter so i'll try cleaning the MAF. Reason I had to disconnect was because of a jammed CD stacker. Dont you love cars, fix one problem, create another!!
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:30 PM   #17
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Battens performance gave me the reset procedure so thats how you do it. step 1 remove negative battery lead.
step2 turn key to on position
step3 hold brake for ten seconds
step4 reconnect negative battery terminal
Start car and commence relearn, i didnt ask them about the relearn but i just use 1 that ive seen on here before, 1minute running in park, 1 minute running in park with air con on,1 minute in drive running, 1 minute in drive running with air con on and i have never had a problem with my eb or au. Im not 100% sure but i think if the ecu is reset properly the car relearns when u drive it
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Old 25-01-2007, 01:30 AM   #18
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Richo
My AU3 did the same thing after resetting ECU. Come up to a stop at roundabouts and idle would drop and stall 20% of the time. Followed the reset on this site (Disconnect, 2 minutes, 2 minutes, etc) and it didn't improve. Reset it again being exact on the times recommended by a member of this site and drove it for 10 minutes changing the throttle position constantly and then did a quick run to Denmark from Albany (50km). Better economy, less trans kickdwn on hills and problem solved.
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Old 25-01-2007, 01:03 PM   #19
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Problem solved by disconnecting it again and ignoring restart procedure, just reconnecting and taking it for a drive, car has never run better
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Old 25-01-2007, 02:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richo77
Problem solved by disconnecting it again and ignoring restart procedure, just reconnecting and taking it for a drive, car has never run better
Yep I agree with this, I never use any relearn procedure or junk like that, just drive the car and it will soon work it all out again.
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