cortina mrk1 mk11 62-71 advice

[dirty hands]

extra advice or a second opinion offered (only owned one myself )


Have to pm me for more detailed info or find me in the telstar post
dont come here too often

1200,1300,
1500-1600 GT-


If someone is stuck I can do a walk through
on some procedures

posts to be added later

some specs
firing order 1243
plug gap 25 thou
points 14-16 thou
timing 1200-1500 6 deg btdc
timing 1600 GT 10 deg btc

email alternator 35 amp
C40 generator 240 watt/22amp

[cortina-mk1]

what advise were you wanting exactly?

[dirty hands]

you already know heaps - thats good
www.cortina-mk1.com
people can ask you as well

giving advice only
given a registered owners manual 1964 model
thats an intresting read (not for sale )

[cortina-mk1]

oh i see your..offereing advise

a bti confusing the thread title

[dirty hands]

torque specs in ft lbs
1200 -1500 GT
head bolts 70
main bearings 60
big end bearings 25
flywheel 50
rocker shaft supports 20

mark 11 series 67 type motor
same as above if not listed below
big end bearings 30
crank pully 28
camshaft sprocket 15
manifold securing 18
MK 11 68 type motor
same as above

1300-1500
rpms 600 +-20
1500GT
rpms 700 +-20

oil pressure 40 psi hot
sump capacity
MK 1 1200-1500 GT 6 3/4 pints with filter
67 type models
MK 11 1300 5 1/2 pints "
MK 11 1500-1500GT 7 pints "
MK 11 1600-1600GT 7 pints "
68 type models
MK 11 1300 6 1/2 pints "
MK 11 1600-1600 GT 7 1/4 pints "

[dnorris]

ok then know all....
1500 pre x flow wont start
1 removed rocket cover located #1 piston exhaust valve stiil down piston on way up exhaust / inlet still closed. mark on harmonic balancer meets the lower mark on timing cover .rotor button on #1 piston points open points gap set @ 0.40mm which =0.015 good so far , understand what ive done .
2 wind motor over wont start new fuel,filter,points,rotor button,and distributor cap all electrical connections look clean motor hasnt been started in a while now go and rack your brain for the solution for me.
thanks
norris

[dirty hands]

the number one piston should be at its full upper travel and both valves closed signifing top of compression and at TDC when the spark is delivered

use the finger method to varify this fact about the top of compression

with the ign on ...see if the points break at the right time when you have number one at TDC .... re- set timing to suit

recheck rotor position firing order of the leads on the cap and plugs

you might have the engine on number 4 cylinder right up as you said the points are open and valves of number one has one open one closed

next problem you may have is the harmonic balencer has slipped on the rubber inset putting the timing mark out

try that

[dnorris]

well done lad , the thing is that ive done all of what you said, and ive spoken 2 a mechanic he said that the timing is out 180 deg so the easiest way out is reset the spark plug leads to 4 as 1 and start the firing order that way i dont like it but if it works then y not.
i'll give you credit for problem solveing
regards
norris

[dirty hands]

put the number one cylinder back up as in the previous post

take out the distrbutor and rotate the rotor of the dissy

180 degress till it faces to the num one cyl on the dissy cap and lead

the timing pully should be right

[dnorris]

well hows dat still didnt fire removed dizzy rotate 180 made sure thats it on #1 bought another coil it might be a intermitting fault in the electrics if it dosent start soon i'll put both barrels to the radiator and shoot the f....er dead.. nah only jokin

[dirty hands]

HAS some one been playing with the engine ? was it running at all before

the engine has a timing chain if it was replaced it may not be fitted correctly
if the compression is good /not a problem
are you getting fuel delivery to the chambers

set the dissy and rotor up so it sits just before it reaches the number one terminal of the dissy while the piston is at TDC
at that point the spark fires right at the pick up contact on the num 1 dissy pick up - lead and plug and not after it has pased

if it starts advance the dissy timing to 6 degrees

[dnorris]

motor was runnig prior to me removing,fuel pump and carby as there was corrosion in the bowl [water] carby needed [air blow out],replaced pump [electric],then motor started, then exhaust manifold started to glow cherry red, timing is /was out ive taked all day to sort it out now it runs ok mixture needs to be set so now it runs.
thanks for your help
norris

[dirty hands]

good news watch out adelaide

you may already know this .so I put it in for others

carby set hot
set idle at 500 rpm screw in mixture screw clockwise till engine slows and falters

then screw mixture screw anti clock wise again till the engine runs smooth

re adjust idle stop screw and may need a twig of the mixture screw to balance engine

idle mixture screw clockwise lean / anti clock wise rich .

different float level heights for the differnt carbies
have to know which one you have
solex pse type/ zenith vn type /ford manual choke /ford automatic type
a webber dual barrel type .

[dnorris]

zenith vn type

[dirty hands]

zenith vn type thats an intresting carby

I have 3 1/2 pages on that one (carby set up as above for the zenith vn type)

float is marked top to face up

you can adjust the fuel pump stroke lenght
should have two lugs on a thread with a spring
(accelerator lever to carby top cover )
the long leg for short stroke ....... short leg for longstroke of the carby fuel pump

[dnorris]

yep
that would be rite if i had that type of fuel pump mine is electric 5 to 8 kpa which should be 2 imperial gallons @2000 rpm, i think the pressure feed is 1 to 2 lbs/per sq inch

[dirty hands]

yes thats a good flow rate

[dnorris]

well dirty hands Thanks for your time and help