Confused

Matt RS2000 · 17-04-2007, 09:13 PM

I thought I knew what I wanted to do with my new RS. Now I don't know where to start after reading what others have done!!
I would appreciate some advice on where to start. I will post some pics within the next couple of days. I would like to give it a little more power, but am not able to go overboard with the money at the moment....
Any help would be appreciated......

RSgerry · 17-04-2007, 10:21 PM

A lot depends on what has already been done to the car and how much money you are able to spend. Extractors and a decent air cleaner are a cheap way to get a few easy horses. If the car has got these already, then you might want to look at spending some money on the suspension and brakes before doing any engine work. New shockies, springs and nolathene bushes will get teh car feeling good and some decent brake pads and vented discs will get it to pull up really well. Engine work can get quite expensive. Again, it depends on how much you can afford. Reboring, head work, a good cam and bigger carbie or twin carbies are pretty standard mods. Remember though, if you go for twin carbies, they use a lot more fuel and require regular tuning.

Without more info, this is all I am able to help with. Good luck.

Matt RS2000 · 18-04-2007, 12:30 PM

I know that the Engine has been rebuilt, but was told it was left standard except the valves so it could run on unleaded. The suspension has already been done and it handles very well. It seems to use a lot of petrol for not a huge amount of power. Don't know enough about the car to know if it is still a standard carby (some help would be appreciated). It does have extractors, exhaust and air filter upgrades......(see photos)

Matt RS2000 · 19-04-2007, 03:35 PM

I filled the car with premium unleaded and I can't believe the difference it has made!!

Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated about how I can tell what has been done to the engine/carby already....

caprispecial · 19-04-2007, 04:31 PM

I love the 7inch wheels and the black and white scheme works for me.

esky76 · 19-04-2007, 05:34 PM

yeah those wheels are awesome, where can u get them from? its a real nice RS2000

Matt RS2000 · 19-04-2007, 07:42 PM

Thanks. I wish I could take the credit for them!! The guy I bought them off put them on. The name of the company that makes them is Performance Wheels. Website http://www.performancewheels.com.au/superlite.asp#
I had a body shop guy quote me $250 to respary all the black sections around the doors, windows and roof sill. To good an offer to reject!!
Will get a better picture tomorrow.

XR8Master · 19-04-2007, 08:12 PM

adjust your carbie a little leaner and see if it makes a difference on your fuel consumption.

Matt RS2000 · 24-04-2007, 02:20 PM

I think my clutch is on the way out. It is very jumpy whenever I take off on a hill and more when the car has been running for a while...). And no it has nothing to do with my driving ability!! What clutch have others used in the past? Heavy duty, but I do drive this car everyday, so nothing too crazy.
I will probably keep the car fairly stock at the moment and fix a few things that need fixing; rust, clutch and some interior improvements. Make it pretty then fast!!
Thanks to everyone for your help so far. I'm obviously no mechanic and all your help is appreciated!!

groulder · 24-04-2007, 06:16 PM

just looked at your engine pics further up the page.

your battery is in the engine bay. is this an aussie rs2000? i'm fairly sure all aussie rs2000s had the batterys relocated to the boot from factory.

Matt RS2000 · 24-04-2007, 08:51 PM

It is Australian... It's a 4 door and I understand they were only built in Australia....

Don't know about the battery thing....

It came with the original Owners Manual...bought in Redcliffe...

Matt RS2000 · 27-04-2007, 11:22 PM

How difficult is it to relocate the battery to the boot??
Do I need a dry cell?? I can't imagine it is too difficult....

Regs RS · 27-04-2007, 11:57 PM

Have you checked the timing? 6 degr btdc is standard although with a mild cam could be a little more (back it off when it starts to ping) also check that the throttle is opening fully when the acelirator is flat to the floor. It looks like you already have a new air cleaner, these were all problems with my RS when I got it, all cheap to fix & made a hugh difference (maybe not to fuel through cause its heaps more fun to drive now so you sort of use more lol)

T_Mark · 28-04-2007, 02:39 AM

Unsure of battery to boot difficulty but im sure a nice new optima battery would be a good start to the conversion. Also if your looking for inspiration check out the uk website http://www.turbosport.co.uk/index.php
This is a good place to check out all the different projects in the old school section! These guys really do some good work (i wish i had such a good bolt on mod selection)

Matt RS2000 · 28-04-2007, 10:47 AM

Thanks guys. I will have a go at adjusting the timing today. If the carby isn't opening up all the way how do I adjust this???
Thanks for the link t-mark. Some pretty serious cars in there!! I would love to do the big sierra turbo swap!! Unfortunately not going to happen though...

Jimmyd · 30-04-2007, 05:29 PM

I noticed you still have the auto choke on the carb - it works by resticting the air flow into the carb. If this is not working properly it does not open and you get high fuel consumption and low power.

To check this, get the engine up to normal temperature, remove the air cleaner and see if the choke flaps are open (square plates at the top of the carb are vertical) when the engine is warm.

Simple relatively inexpensive performance mods with a standard engine:

Crow cams - billet cam grind 26661 works well for every day driving with useful torque increase across the rev range - make sure you replace the cam followers and oil spray bar at the same time,

Carb - rejet standard carb - these carbs can produce upto around 140BHP and are a good match for the 26661 cam,

Exhaust - a nice, free flowing 2" exhaust system really works well with off the shelf extractors (HM, Lukey, Perry, etc) for all but the hariest of engines - any larger with a basically standard engine all you get is more noise and less torque,

Diff - fit a 3.77 diff from a 1600 escort - better acceleration, higher revs on the freeway - just don't go doing burnouts as the planatary gears aren't as strong as the 3.54 2 litre diff,

Slightly more expensive and complicated work;

Head - while you have the head off to fit the cam (largest journal is at the rear of the head, so you have to remove the head to replace the cam) get 60 thou shaved of head surface - will bring you to about 10.5:1 compression (increase torque),

Valves - while the head is off, remove the valves and have the valve seat back ground down with 30 degree angle - need to keep about 2mm seat face though,

Valve seats - get a good 3 angle valve seat grind - will improve low lift flow,

Porting - while the valves are out check the inside radius of the inlet and exhaust ports - if these have not been blended properly the head will not flow. Do not open out the inlet ports any more, they are already oversize for this enginge, but the exhaust ports could use some opening up and general smoothing.

I have been running a Midnight Blue 4dr RS2000 with these mods for about 5 years - useful reliable power range (on the street she out acellerates AU XR6 VCT Falcons, holds BF XR6 Falcons) with respectable fuel economy of 10l/100klm on Premium - even when driven hard.
Now she has been retired to a weekend toy I am fitting a set of twin IDF Webers so I can go V8 hunting.....

A good investment is a book form the late seventies/early eighties by David Vizard called "How to modify the ford SOHC engine" - this is literally the bible for extracting good power from these engines.

There is another book worth while looking at with more up to date options - publisher is Speed Pro publication by Des Hamill called "How to power tune Ford SOHC 4 cylender pinto & cosworth DOHC engines".

Hope this helps you some.

Cheers

James

Psi-Pop · 30-04-2007, 06:17 PM

Save up some pennies for some decent induction and a nice cam.

Is the car you daily driver?

Its all going to come down to how much money you want to chuck at it, but a mild cam will see you pick up a nice bit performance as long as its paired with decent induction and decent exhaust.

A single sidedraught would also see nice improvements but its a money thing here, twins would be best, but your going to need a hotter motor to really see the improvements. If it is a daily driver you should consider a Sierra Injection setup, nice and smooth and doesnt fall out of tune.

Matt RS2000 · 30-04-2007, 08:51 PM

Thanks guys that looks great. I think I'll save some dollars and go with option 2. May as well go the whole hog!! I just wish I kept the 2 sidies off an old car of mine. I nearly cry when I think I GAVE them away........

I will certainly check out the Auto Choke it does seem to fit my problem. How do I get rid of it if it does not work as it should?

monkeydog · 30-04-2007, 10:51 PM

If you get a price for the Crow cam / carb rejetting, could you share it please?

Thanks,
James

Matt RS2000 · 01-05-2007, 10:13 AM

No prob James.
A mild cam from tighe is $280....I will probably go the twin side draft option so won't look at the rejetting...Does anyone have a pair of webers??

Does anyone in Brissie know of a place to send the head for some work??

Thanks

Jimmyd · 01-05-2007, 11:53 AM

Fuel Miser (now RECARB) used to do a manual choke conversion kit - has everything you need with good instructions for fitting. If your carb is jetted correctly you WILL need a choke, otherwise you will have a huge flat spot when cold.

Alternatively the quick and dirty fix is to just remove the choke butterflies, but you will need to let the engine warm up in the mornings.

In reposnse to an earlier question - to check and adjust the throttle opening -WITH THE ENGINE OFF get a mate to sit in the car and push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it down - grasp the throttle linkage on the side of the carb and turn it clockwise - if you get any additional movement then the throttle is not fully opening.

To adjust have a look at where the cable out housing mounts to the bracket bolted to the inlet manifold (behind the carb) you will see a threaded section about 100mm long with two nuts either side of the bracket - from memory one is 14mm, the other 15mm - with the engine off and your mate hodl the accellerator pedal down loosen the two nuts, turn the one on the drivers side of the bracket clockwise. This in effect leangthens the out cable housing. Adjust this until there is no apreaciable movement when you try to turn the carb linkage clockwise. when done, retighten the lock nut on the passengers side of the cable bracket.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Matt RS2000 · 01-05-2007, 09:05 PM

I checked the carbie when warm and the choke flaps are open...

I was hoping for an easy solution. Would poor jets also cause high fuel consumption and low power? What is the best/easiest way to check this?

I think I might be expecting too much from a stock engine, but I'm sure my old car was more powerful than this.

I am going to play with the timing this weekend and see if I can get better performance out of it....

Matt RS2000 · 02-05-2007, 03:08 PM

Quote for Head P&P, cam, springs etc $900. That is with me pulling the head off and putting it back together again. Was told the standard carbie would be able to handle this. Cam range 2500-6500...
I know this doesn't answer the re-jet question....

Jimmyd · 03-05-2007, 08:13 AM

Hi,
Hard to diagnose online when we have already covered the most likely culprits, but here goes anyway;

1. can you define high fuel consumption - how may klm/100ltrs,
2. define low power - do you get blown away by 20 year old volvos at the lights?
3. have you checked the exhaust is not blocked - is it sqaushed, does the muffler rattle, etc?
4. have you checked the sparkplugs - what condition were they?
5. have you replaced the points - what condition were they?
6. what is the timing set at? - remember, TDC marker on the balancer is the deepest groove - left most when facing the engine - each deep groove is 4 degrees.
7. does it feel sluggish, ie doesn't want to rev?
8. is the engine earth strap connected - runs from near the fuel pump on the engine to the body or battery (can't remeber the std location anymore)
9. what revs are you doing at 100kph - don't trust the speedo - get someone with a late model unmodified car to pace you to 100kph.
10. is it an auto?
11. get someone to blip the throttle a couple of times while you watch the exhaust - is there any smoke? What colour - blue or black?

that is a starting point anyway....

Cheers

James

PS. bad jetting (ie too rich) will give you high fuel consumption, poor performance and will wear out your engine prematurely. No simple way to check what the jetting is, but a "trick" in the eighties was to pull the secondary main an redrill the jet bigger - if you didnt go too far it was alomst like hitting a turbo when the seconday throat opened.....

Matt RS2000 · 03-05-2007, 09:35 AM

I have checked the following:
Spark Plugs - new
Leads - new
Points - new
Exhaust - near new - undamaged
Fuel consumption - 30L got me 220km
Have not checked the timing - will do
It is a manual
It does not blow smoke
Will check the revs at 100
I would say that 20 yr old Volvo would give me a run for my money, nearly
I will also check that the throttle is fully open next time I have a chance
Everything seems as it should be.
I may take it to a mechanic to have a look at it for and see if they can find anything. I should probably stick to my own job and let a mechanic do his!!
Thanks for the ideas!!

Jimmyd · 03-05-2007, 12:46 PM

OK, looks like we are down to one of three likely faults:
1. Throttle not fully opening - would explain low power but not high fuel consumption - but 13.6l/100klm isn't that bad really if the engine is standard and it is driven with enthusiasm - when I first bought my RS 17 (!) years ago it was an absolutely stock standard one owner car - when I pushed it hard I would use up around 13l-15l/100klm;
2. Carb jetted too rich - would explain low power and higher fuel consumption, but there is no smoke from the exhaust and fuel consumption isn't that bad;
3. Out of left field but check to make sure your brakes are not draging - put in neutral, release hand brake and try pushing the car - does it keep rolling for a coupe of feet when you stop pushing or does it imeadiately stop?

The question re revs at 100k is to try and back calculate the diff ratio - std 3.54:1 should put you around 3200rpm, 3.77:1 around 3600rpm on 13x60/205 tyres - i have seen RS2000's with shortened falcon diffs with 2.7:1 running around 2500rpm....

Cheers

James

Matt RS2000 · 15-05-2007, 03:52 PM

Sorry for taking so long to get back....
At 100 on the speedo the rpm: 3400. May have to check speedo is accurate before taking my word on that one though...
Brakes definitely aren't sticking though.
Thanks for the advice!!!

greenmk2 · 19-05-2007, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt RS2000

Sorry for taking so long to get back....
At 100 on the speedo the rpm: 3400. May have to check speedo is accurate before taking my word on that one though...
Brakes definitely aren't sticking though.
Thanks for the advice!!!

I had my mk2 on the dyno we couldnt get an accurate reading.. The speedo was saying 92kph but was surpose to be 100.. It was the 220kph dash.. I ended up just puting in older 200kph speedo.

I just mounted a 350 holley.. to easy! made my own adaptor plate.. I changed to 61 main jets.. 45 power valve.. Goes really well with camtec cam and exhaust..

Matt RS2000 · 16-06-2007, 03:38 PM

It seems to be running a lot more efficiently now...
Going to test the speedo out soon. Seems to be going a lot faster than it says..
Decided to leave engine alone for now until I break it!! Looking for some second hand twin webers to give it a little extra and get a few dodgy repairs to the body cleaned up to get it looking the part.
I love driving it!! The clutch doesn't like taking off up hills when warm, any ideas??