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Reload this Page Au Series 1 brake upgrade (again)
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Old 28-10-2008, 07:04 PM   #1
The Monty
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Default Au Series 1 brake upgrade (again)
Ok, Ive just sifted through 987,763,142 posts of info regarding the upgrade to series 2 brakes. 99.9% tell of needing this part and that part.
All I am after is a list of all the parts (every single one) I am going to need to do the conversion, preferably off someone who has done it before.
Also, is it imperative that I have 16 inch wheels or bigger, or will the 15's still fit?


Thankyou,
Josh

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Old 28-10-2008, 07:26 PM   #2
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This is what i came up with from my thread about the same thing...

AUII/III parts:
Master Cylinder
Brake Booster
Slotted rotors
Pads
XR calipers
Lower Control Arm
Stub Axles
Sway Bar
Sway Bar Mounts
2×High Tensile bolts for the sway bars
Fastners to suit
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Old 28-10-2008, 08:15 PM   #3
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Thankyou, thats what I was after.
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Old 28-10-2008, 09:27 PM   #4
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i just used my series 1 brake booster and master cylinder
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Old 28-10-2008, 11:37 PM   #5
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are the brake booster and marster cylinder actually different?
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Old 29-10-2008, 12:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
This is what i came up with from my thread about the same thing...

AUII/III parts:
Master Cylinder
Brake Booster
Slotted rotors
Pads
XR calipers
Lower Control Arm
Stub Axles
Sway Bar
Sway Bar Mounts
2×High Tensile bolts for the sway bars
Fastners to suit
The stuff you actually need is as follows:
Lower Control Arm
Stub Axles
Sway Bar
Sway Bar Mounts
2×High Tensile bolts for the sway bars
Discs, pads and callipers to suit (anything from AU2 right through to BF).
Front brake lines (the series one lines won't reach).
Cable tie to secure longer brake lines to strut (series 2 has a built in clip that series one shocks/struts don't have)

Yes, you will need to run 16s if you use AU2, and 17s if you go anything larger.
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Old 29-10-2008, 12:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99XR6
are the brake booster and marster cylinder actually different?
Yes.

I have an AU2 booster with my original master cylinder. The master cylinder is the penile aluminium part under the brake fluid reservoir. The booster is the round black thing between the master cylinder and firewall, that the vacuum hose plugs into.
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Old 29-10-2008, 12:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by JC
Yes, you will need to run 16s if you use AU2, and 17s if you go anything larger.
Base BA rotors & calipers also fit under 16's. They are 298mm rotors compared to AU2/3's 287mm.
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Sleeper, anyone?
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Old 29-10-2008, 08:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
The stuff you actually need is as follows:
Lower Control Arm
Stub Axles
Sway Bar
Sway Bar Mounts
2×High Tensile bolts for the sway bars
Discs, pads and callipers to suit (anything from AU2 right through to BF).
Front brake lines (the series one lines won't reach).
Cable tie to secure longer brake lines to strut (series 2 has a built in clip that series one shocks/struts don't have)

Yes, you will need to run 16s if you use AU2, and 17s if you go anything larger.

Exactly what he said.
Also I found that he peddle was a little spongy. I have been lead to believe S2
master will fix this but as yet I still haven't tried.
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Old 29-10-2008, 09:43 AM   #10
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they say braided steel brake lines give a firmer pedal, not sure though as i havent fitted them.
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Old 29-10-2008, 12:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
The stuff you actually need is as follows:
Lower Control Arm
Stub Axles
Sway Bar
Sway Bar Mounts
2×High Tensile bolts for the sway bars
Discs, pads and callipers to suit (anything from AU2 right through to BF).
Front brake lines (the series one lines won't reach).
Cable tie to secure longer brake lines to strut (series 2 has a built in clip that series one shocks/struts don't have)

Yes, you will need to run 16s if you use AU2, and 17s if you go anything larger.
Well... the list i gave was the exact list compiled in my thread about the same thing... no wonder people get confused with it... the info keeps getting changed... :

I'm sure with a little help, we all can come up with an EXACT list and install guide for others... :
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Old 29-10-2008, 08:15 PM   #12
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JCs list was spot on. You don't need the master cylinder or brake booster but it would be better cause you will end up with a spongy pedal if you don't change them. I did this conversion earlier this year and JCs advice was great. Just one thing I will add that I learned is don't use BA brake lines, my conversion was done with BA brakes and I found the brake lines a bit shorter than series 2/3 and when the wheels were at full lock the brakes lines were really pulled.
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Old 29-10-2008, 08:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mont5.0
they say braided steel brake lines give a firmer pedal, not sure though as i havent fitted them.

If they do then they must be real spongy without em cause I have brand new braided lines on mine and they pretty spongy.
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Old 30-10-2008, 07:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99GHIA
If they do then they must be real spongy without em cause I have brand new braided lines on mine and they pretty spongy.
Which Master Cylinder/booster are you running?
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Old 30-10-2008, 07:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEPRINT
Which Master Cylinder/booster are you running?
Both S1. Like I said I have been lead to believe the master will take the sponginess
out of the pedal. But to be honest it breaks s... hot now the T3 breaks are in it so while
the master is still working I couldn't see the point in changing it.
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